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Topic - Quantifying climbing-specific strength in a lab?

givemetea - on 19 Jun 2012
If you wanted to try to quanitify aspects of bouldering strength which you could measure in a lab (and then come back and retest after training) what would you choose? Some researchers have designed a specific apparatus that can measure crimp strength and crimp endurance. Other tests used are ability to do one arm pull-ups. But surely there are lots of other relavant types of strength? Such as, how would you quantify the ability to perform compression-type moves ... or the hamstring strength required to execute more extreme heelhook moves?
Any thoughts?
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