/ Quantifying climbing-specific strength in a lab?
I'd go for whatever it was that Greg Rimmer so comprehensively outperformed Ben Moon at in OTE's famous test....not.
The single leg squat is often used to compare an athletes lower body strength pre/post objective.
Re. Hamstring tests. You can use a machine which tracks power output during a maximal contraction. The subject is moved by the machine once they can no longer exert the required force. It then creates an output graph for you detailing the force exerted at all points of the movement.
For climbing specific "strength" you actually want to measure anaerobic endurance and recovery rates in the forearm. Hold on to small holds, recover on large holds, 'til you drop.
What exactly are you trying to quantify and what equipment do you have available? Are you looking to measure how how a certain training regime affects climbing performance or how that regime affects specific grip and limb strength measurements?
For the former I'd maybe look to set a number of problems on a board then either alter the board angle or the ballast the climber carries to make the problems progressively harder. Obviously you need to be systematic about things like equipment used, rest intervals and hold condition. Then repeat the experiment after training. The problem with that is that the first session is on new problems, the second session is on familiar ones, you might expect an improvement even with no training (control group needed or a couple of familiarisation sessions before taking your baseline measurements?).
For the simpler grip-strength test I'd instrument a set of holds or fingerboard (could be as simple as standing a ballasted climber on scales beneath the board) then have them bear down on various grips.
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