/ UKC fit club 285

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Daniel Heath - on 02 Sep 2012
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (284) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=517693&v=1
Posters:
Eagle River - Sorry to hear mate, take it easy
Leon – I may well have been spouting tired induced rubbish. I would agree with Si’s definition though. Maybe I mantle makes big use of palming. Well done getting on Telli, glad you got a positive experience from it.
Grubes – Congrats again mate. It’s good how it feels easy when you have it wired.
Si_dH – Good chin up score and so close to 100! I only got 70 when I was trying last summer. Good week.
NMN – That’s a worthy 10k goal, good luck.
Maria85 – That must be quite upsetting. Glad you feel better now. About the falls, just go for it and don’t say take! :P
IainRUK – Good week
Mrchewey – I like how much you’re climbing at the moment
Biscuit – Well done for keeping up with the body fat even when you don’t feel like it. So fat scales are not necessarily accurate but they are consistent? Which ones would you recommend/how much to spend?
Joughton – Well done on your indoor performance. I toproped arme blance badly when I started climbing. It’s useful to know how rubbish the cam is, so I guess mats is the way… Huge congrats on Supersonic, as you say a genuinely serious route.
Mattrm – Finger strength should be fairly straightforward to improve. I intend to put a few weeks of deadhangs in myself in a month or so.
Sankey – I can understand your lack of inspiration for Peak Sport up to 7a. Maybe it would be worth your while to project some stuff at Chee Dale?
Ian Bell – Better get that lactic threshold up for Kalymnos! 3.5 weeks sound perfect for some quick improvements.
Kevster – Well noticed! It’s easier to see what people have logged than read 8 different threads. Well done on your ticks this week.
Ali – Well done getting on lead, now keep going for it but don’t be put off by a couple of bad days.
Pebbles – Busy week. A confident attitude makes a huge difference in sport climbing.
JimmyKay – You have so much motivation for training. Good luck preparing for Turkey.
Hokkyokusei – Another one for weight loss, at least we have Biscuit’s example of the discipline required over a long time. Good luck.
Ayuplass – Shame about your post illness lack of energy. Hopefully you can get plenty of climbing in (even just light climbing). Then I’m sure routes and then circuits would make a difference in 5 weeks.
Richard Popp – Nice to see you’re making the most of the training you can do.
Daniel Heath - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:


I've had a good couple of weeks:

Returned from the Dolomites all happy and confident, but got shut down in Nottingham and Stoke bouldering. I felt so weak and uncoordinated indoors.

Just returned from a Rock Climbing Instructor course with the military (this sits between SPA and MIA equivalent) Really happy to get this qual at 20, and it increased my confidence in rescue techniques. Didn't climb outdoors much but bouldered every day indoors.

After 7 days on, I went on a chilled trip to Over Owler Tor and soloed an E1 and HVS, then ran over to Higgar and soloed the File and Surform (E1). Surform was pretty steep and a bit dodgy but I talked to myself really loudly to calm myself down as I made the tricky traverse.

THEN, I met my friends in Millstone and no one wanted to climb anything, so they told me to solo something. I got on Edge Lane with a couple of pads and kept on going. I paused at the crux for ages and my friends set off to lower me a toprope, but I did the move before they arrived.

First E5 (with pads) in the bag! More importantly, I never have to put myself in that situation again!
Joughton on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Great effort on Edge Lane mate, that route takes balls, especially to onsight it. Wouldn't bother too much about the pads, they don't really take anything away from the ascent because the crux is pretty high right? So the pads wouldn't do much anyway...

I've had another decent week, though I'm starting college next week so it's all about to end! I've found a nice structure to my week though, with two or three days sport or trad climbing outside plus one wall session to keep my fitness up per week, it seems to be working nicely.

Mon - rest
Tue - High Tor, warmed up following an E2 on the right wing. Then we did Lyme Cryme, a tough E3 in a poorly protected groove (shocking pegs!) Next up was Supersonic, an E5 I've wanted to do for ages. The technical crux (hard 6a) came right at the start, getting up and out of the groove. Then a finger crack led to the bottom of the 6a crux of Flaky Wall (my first E4 from March), which went pretty easily compared to the rest of it. After this bit a good rest came before the headwall, which was quite thin and really runout, so the last few moves (easy 6a) a long way above gear spooked me a bit but it was fine in the end! YAY!
Wed - Session at MCC. Did 4x6b, then 4x7b, then 2x7b+ all clean on lead without rests between sets - chuffed.
Thurs - rest
Fri - Climbed at one of the A55 crags on the way to Wales. Did a 6a+ and 6b to warm up then onsighted a super bouldery 8m 7a. P.E, felt like two V3 boulders with no rest in between. Then tried my new theory that if I try to onsight a 7c everytime I go sport climbing, eventually I'll get one. I didn't this time, but got every move on the dog with just a few rests so not all bad.
Sat - Wanted to climb in the pass but weather looked dodgy so climbed on the slate. Having prepared myself to get burnt off on everything because I've never really climbed on it before, I was pleasantly surprised to onsight an E1 5b, E2 5c and E3 6a all without too much trouble. The E3 had just two bolts and no gear in about 15m of climbing - way scary! Luckily the 6a bits were right by the bolt. Also followed an E2 and led a tough 6b - a better day than expected.
Sun - feeling pretty sore today so resting!

Cheers, Jake
Joughton on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Oh and shouldn't this be week 285...?
biscuit - on 02 Sep 2012
Cheers Dan and nice one on the qualification. Always good to have these things.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0033AGBVG/ref=amb_link_112643707_3?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf...

These are the fat scales i got. Supposed to give a more balanced reading due to the hand and feet sensors. I have had another week of strange readings ( 9.5% - 13.6%) and i am starting to think it's due to hydration levels. Also, if i lose a bit of weight ( i am trying not to i want to lose fat not weight ) that now has a huge effect on the fat readings. If i am 11% at 65kg and i lose 1/2 kilo the reading will go up to about 12%.

This week went better than expected until Friday night when i broke a rib or 2.

M- PE session on woody
T- PE session on woody
W - Rest
T - Aerocap 20/10's complexes and core
F - Aerocap 20/10's complexes and core
S - Owch
S - Still owch.

PE felt good and hard. Nice to be training it again after a long time away. 2nd session was abandoned after 3 sets ( i was doing 4 reps per set of a 20 move circuit with 2min rest between ) as i was failing due to still feeling the effects the day before. Also plastic holds really hurt my skin now.

Aerocap is now boring me senseless but i am getting it done.

I was going to have a routes session today and have a crack at a steep short 7a+ i had a play on a while ago. It's a line of 2 finger pockets basically. Weather is perfect now. Sunny but slight cloud cover and a decent breeze. Never mind.

Got work for the next 3 days which is going to be hard with my ribs, not looking forward to it.

While i am out of action i am going to build a campus board on the lower patio. Not for campussing, not with my elbows anyway, but for PE training with feet on. I guess i could do aerocap work on it as well if i get 2 sizes of rungs and put something to stand on directly below me. I reckon i'll be able to climb on that rather than rock quicker with my ribs as i'll be able to control what i am doing and i'll be able to blast out PE training easily 3 or 4 times a week. IPE is going to be very important for my project so having something at home to work on is going to be essential.

I am going to wait a few days and see if i can continue with my foot on fingerboard aerocap. Fingers crossed.
IainRUK - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

m: lunch: 6.5 mile trail run. pm: 4 miles @ 6:30 min pace.
t: lunch: 5.5 mile road run. pm: 7 mile road/trail run.
w: am: 4 mile trail run. pm: 11 mile trail run.
t: lunch: track 6 x 800m reps,. pm: 6.5 mile fell run Glyder Fawr
f: 10.4 mile road run
s: am: 12.15 mile trail run, 600m ascent. pm: 3 mile fell run. eve: 20 mile road ride
s: am: Caenarfon 10k.. awful tired. 36:30.. jogged in.. pm: probably 6 mile fell run
biscuit - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Just realised i forgot to say bloody well done on Edge Lane. Top tick !
Ian Bell - on 02 Sep 2012
10 more 7a (5/14)
2x7a+ (1/2)
1x7b

STG - 2 wall sessions next week. RP 7a next weekend (prob Cairn).

Weds - WW autobelay and some bouldering. Did some laps on autobelay, about 14 or so routes. Maybe 15 or so easyish boulder problems. A snatched 90 min session after work.

Sat - WW. 15 or so boulder probs although only 5 ish of any difficulty. 8 routes around 6b+ / 6c. A bit weak but not too bad,

Didn't get much in this week but hopefully work is not abating although sure I've said that before! Aiming for a couple of wall sessions next week.

Peak next weekend. Current plan is Harpur Hill so going to have a crack at Cairn which I've heard is good.
AJM - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

When I was in Loup Alex rated foot on campus as an aeropower exercise - aiming for about 40 moves apparently, which is where I'd been going wrong in the past (I had been aiming for about 25). Also gets a thumbs up for ancap apparently too, though foot off this time. As for aerocap work, I got Ali to do something similar with the footholds under our fingerboard and it seemed to work pretty well - as long as you make it steep enough to get a pump on of course.

Dan, Jake - effort guys!

So, my trip to Cham then...
Saturday - late start, went up to the monolith, did a nice 6a and a "6c" 2nd go (6c+ or maybe even soft 7a in reality). Had a decent go on the 6c but it was very powerful and bouldery low down.
Sunday - went up to Gietroz, did Autoroute Blanche (6a, 6b, 6b+, 6c, 6a, 6a+) allonsight. Nice route!
Monday - train to Montenvers, walked up to Couvercle. Amazing walk, awesome views on the way and from the hut.
Tuesday - went up to do the Moine, backed off as we were too slow. Another nice walk out, this time along the balcon path past the Charpoua hut.
Wednesday - up to Afrique at Gietroz. Did a 6a and after much fighting (bulging forearms by the top!) another "6c" - I spoke to a local who said 7a. Superb route. Got drenched to the skin by a thunderstorm after that!
Thursday - rain
Friday- rain
Saturday - nothing. Ali had food poisoning so stayed in all day. Grey and cold.
Sunday - clear skies. Ali still a bit weak and time short before flight so took the Index loft and walked back to Argentiere via some cheesy photo opportunities up at Lac Blanc.

All in all a fun week, good to see mates again, got a few nice routes done, got Ali psyched on the mountains. Job accomplished really.

3 weeks til Rodellar, got to get some climbing miles in before then to make the most of it - looks like probably my only autumn holiday now :(

Will also fulfil my promise and write some stuff about Loup, Bauchet/Verdon and maybe Gietroz for any who are interested.

A
biscuit - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:

Sounds like a great week. Decent French grading and none of that soft Spanish stuff.

Good to hear that Mr Science himself reckons a campus board can be used for various aspects.
AJM - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit:

Wacky grading most likely ;)
grubes - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> Grubes – Congrats again mate. It’s good how it feels easy when you have it wired.
Thanks Daniel

Cheers and welcome back dan. It felt good to bag it.

STG (end of Nov):
7a in Chorro
Onsight 6c in or before Chorro
MTG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
Do some DWS
LTG (June 2013):
7b
7A
E3/4

This Weeks Goals:
Get out on rock. - Tick two sessions
Limestone? - Tick two sessions
Holmfirth traverse link - very close last sunday night
Holmfirth filming - Got some want more
Wall session - tick x2

M: Rokt 3 hours feeling pretty febble
T: Rest
W: Rokt 4 hours mainly on the lead wall. good session flashed a 6c on the vert wall
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: A55 - Penmaen Head. Warmed up onsighting a 6b. Then got a 6b second go after my foot slipped off of a smear. 6a+ finished off that I tried two years ago.
LPT - Onighted a 5+ then a 6a straight after it.
Attempted to onsight a 6c but fell on the last move gutted!
S: Kilnsey was soaked to headed across to Trollers for another day on the Jim f*cking grin!
I had 3 redpoint attempts well 5 if you include the two I messed up on the start!
Fell on the same move I am so close I am just pissed off with it now.

Next Weeks goals:
Trad Saturday
Sport/Bouldering Sunday
Mid week session

Had a great day in north wales. I was gutted to mess up under the broadwalk (the 6c) but what an amazing route. I must get back to it at some point. But LPT what a crag!!! so much fun!
Jim grin is just getting to me know. I want the route but I need a break from it.
NMN - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks for doing the stats Dan.

STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick

MTG:
Sub 40 min 10km
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.

LTG: Push trad grade.
(High Peak Marathon)

M - 4.02m trail run, 581ft.
T - rest.
W - 4.03m trail run, 587ft.
T - rest.
F - rest.
S - 8.7m Ben Nevis Race, 4,419ft.
S - rest.

Ben Nevis race was fantastic. I don't do many races but it is definitely my favourite. Over 4 minutes quicker than last year and actually had a bit left in the legs to grab a few places along the road at the end.
JimmyKay - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

M- Drive back from Portland.
T- Did some mile reps. Quickest I put in was 5.34. Lead session at RP. Worked a 7c+ and then had 2 failed RP's.
W- Rest day
T- RP lead session. 2 Failed RP's on 7c+. Bit of bouldering on the roof. 12.2km run
F- Rest day
S- Park run 18:44 New PB. Slow last mile again. Then drove to Chee Dale. Put the draws in on Why Me? Felt good apart from a crucial large pocket was absolutely gopping. Sacked it off and did Daylight Robbery and Systems Malfunction. Took a couple of RP's to do both as I was climbing awfully.
S- Rest day

STG - Manage to go up and down a route on the steep roof at RP again.
Get on some more of the 8a's in redpoint (Currently working a 7c+)
At least 1 barrel session and 1 roof session a week at RP. (failed - had two lead sessions instead and two days outdoors.)

MTG - Climb 8a in Turkey
Sub-18 5K. (Currently - 18:44) New PB in the park run, shaved off all of 1 second.
5minute mile (Currently - 5:34)
JimmyKay - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Oh, and good effort Dan. You mad big balled bastard.
mrchewy - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Nice work on Edge Lane chap - and the qualification, you must be proper buzzing at the moment!

Weight - 80.3kg
Body fat - 24.9%
Target 75kg and 18%

So, worked out how to do a reset on the scales and overnight lost 9%! Used that US Navy measuring formula and came up at 24.2%, got a mate who can use callipers to measure me and that was 24.5%. Therefore I'm assuming that the scales are now reading more or less 'accurately'.
Heavy weekend for beer and food as it's my birthday this week and I was away with the lads, so no complaints about the one kilo weightloss.

M - Boulder room, progress again and seem to be able to hold some V2 moves. Tried a couple of V3s. Up, down the V0 4c lots.
T - Knackered
W - Boulder room. Same as Monday, some 4x4s and have a hole in the front of my left shoe from not hitting the holds properly when downclimbing. Worked out that I need to drop onto straight arms before moving feet.
T - Core work
F - Drive to Wales.
S - Walk up Y Garn, Elidar Fawr and down into Dinorwig. 5hrs. The lads were slow, so I ran ahead a lot and then back to them at times. Good to be running again.
S - Boulder room. 4hrs and left with fingers very tired. Tried lots and whilst I didn't complete much, I was happy that I held and managed a few tough moves on small holds on V3s. Didn't do the V2 45 degree problem I wanted to complete as got sidetracked but all in all a good session.

A good week's bouldering for me and definite progress, although need to sort a session or two in the main room on a rope. It was sweet to run a little too.

Birthday on Thursday and busy late at work this week coming, so not sure what I'll get done but, weather willing, driving to Skye Friday pm, get on the ridge and drive back Sunday pm. Sounds madness to me but that's the plan.

biscuit - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to mrchewy:
driving to Skye Friday pm, get on the ridge and drive back Sunday pm. Sounds madness to me but that's the plan.

Bonkers !
mrchewy - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to NMN: Well done on cutting 4 minutes from last years time - good progress.
mrchewy - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit: This US Navy bodyfat measuring formula - any thoughts on it? Does it work for you? I'm assuming you will have tried it...
Eagle River - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Daniel and well done on Edge Lane, sounds insane.

Goals: 7b+ by end of 2012.

Mainly spent the week icing my finger, then got a head cold towards the end of the week but got out today.

Sun: kilnsey wet so off to trollers with grubes and a mate of mine. After warming up I flashed Jim Grin which is my first ever 7a flash. Pretty happy with that. Afterwards I tried a pretty minging 7b+, won't be rushing back on that one.

Won't get out next weekend as we're off to see some wheelchair basketball (cool) and I'm just praying Frankie comes to kilnsey dries out so I can go back and tick it as that'd be the year's goal done. Five weeks till Spain.
biscuit - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to mrchewy:
> (In reply to biscuit) This US Navy bodyfat measuring formula - any thoughts on it? Does it work for you? I'm assuming you will have tried it...

Never heard of it. Just googled it and it said 12% so it seems to be ball park for me. Today feels like a 12% kind of a day :(

The good news is i can get 10% if i grow another 5 inches to 6ft 1in.
mrchewy - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to biscuit: Aye - seems an odd way to do it but it seems to come up trumps. Tried a few people on the scales the other day, then used the Navy thing and everyone was within 1% variance. That sounds pretty anal actually, so I'll shut up now.
Daniel Heath - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Joughton:

WEEK 285, sorry for the typo, I don't think I can change that now
maria85 - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Much better week for me, thanks for the kind words last week, was struggling to sort my head out. Feeling like autumn here, very glad to have lost the killer temps of the last few weeks.

Last week's goals:
- Dent du Geant tomorrow, followed by 2 more days of fun on something or other. Mate visiting so girly climbing time. - DONE
- Actually run again towards the end of the week. -DONE
- Go take some falls if I can get my head around it. After Papillons, this may be pushed back to the autumn when I can get indoors, feel safer then (irrational I know). -DONE... at least a little bit.

M: Climbed the Dent du Geant, supposedly off first lift across, but after queuing at the midi and hopeless cable car staff, we didn't leave Helbronner until 11.30... Approach took a lot longer than expected (in hindsight, think we went the wrong way and there was some seriously scary loose stuff), mate not acclimatized. Base of climb at 4, decided that the descent would suck whether we did it in the dark or not, so we went for the Dent. Glad we did, great climb, used the fixed ropes to speed it up a bit. Bit of a faff on the raps and descent in the dark meant we eventually hit the tent at Helbronner about 1.30. Climbing those fixed ropes is amazingly physical, was knackered by the summit!!
T: Lift back across then went for a crag, just seconded some 4's in approach shoes as mate wanted to get some leads in.
W: Climbed l'arete rouge near the index, 5 pitches up to 5b, alternate leads.
T: Run, 10.6km, 1 hour. Managed to run the hill towards the middle of this for the first time, slowly but made it! Only about 70m ascent over 1km or so but I suck at hills.
F: rest day
S: nothing. Felt unfit watching UTMB runners finish.
S: Cragging - led a 6a, then got on the 7a next to it on top rope, I've tried this once before and it felt slightly easier this time but still can't come close to linking it. Give up on that one I think, I don't have the patience to work routes. TR'd another 6a (didn't lead as the bolting looked weird... it was). Got on a 6a+, foot slipped off the crux so I decided to use it as a falling lesson instead having lost the o/s. First try I was too scared to let go right next to the bolt, by fall 4 or 5 though I had got to feet level with bolt. Need to do this more. Ran out of time to finish route but had climbed the crux by then so not too bothered.
Ran 10.6km again tonight, feeling a bit tired and got a stitch for a while, but only 1min slower than on Thurs.

This week's goals:
- Off to Valle d'orca in Italy for the next few days - want to come back having led 6a crack, and got on at least 6b on TR/dogged.
- One longer run this week, 15km or so. Looking to build back up to ~20km in the next couple of weeks.
- Do some more leg strength stuff. 3 sessions.
- Get on another 6a+
- Some falling again if at a suitable crag
IainRUK - on 02 Sep 2012
In reply to NMN: Well done.. classic race.. told you not to be too pessimistic re Wyddfa.. :-)

Its a brilliant race, the atmosphere, the route.. just superb.


mattrm - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> (In reply to Joughton)
>
> WEEK 285, sorry for the typo, I don't think I can change that now

Dan - email a UKC Mod, I'm sure that they can.

Kevster - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan,

Would edge lane be safer with gear or is it basically dangerous/highball anyway? Don't know the route personally, not sure well done is the right thing to say - it might encourage you to solo london wall or something...... Effort though.

Will need a pass for this coming week - Lundy at the weekend.

I posted the long weekend in last week's. So that leaves me short this week.
No psyche for indoors, no outdoors. So....

Tues: Pretended to climb indoors.
Sunday: Reach, did OK. OS 7b and 7b+, though I think they are soft, the 7b+ equals/is my best OS indoors. Some of the other new routes were tougher. Pleased though.

This week: Doing very little climbing wise, trying to save my skin and avoid any injury for lundy next week. I have a wish list, time and weather will tell.

Mid term - get back on the harder sport.

Thanks, Kev.

AJM - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Kevster:

Edge lane is basically a solo isn't it - E5 5c unprotected (or nearly) arête
NMN - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to IainRUK& mrchewy:

Thanks.
That is only the fourth race I have repeated and the first one to go quicker so it is nice to finally feel like I am making a bit of progress. I like the steep up and down races and I like the out and back seeing the leaders coming back down. Seeing Andi Jones flying down Snowdon last year and Ian Holmes descend Ben Nevis this year is pure inspiration.
Daniel Heath - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Kevster:

The gear is below halfway to the top crux, so I think the rope would be a distraction, with a small chance of my belayer running fast enough.

I don't think I'm addicted to Soloing now, I'll be quite happy to try hard safe routes for a while. I quite tired and ill, so I didn't really feel the exposure or the risk in full. This probably helped the climbing but maybe it was a bit reckless.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Kevster - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
Ah! I know, next to green death and masters edge...
Yeah, has some gear but if you need it, you shouldn't be on it kind of climb.

Minerals.
mattrm - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Nice one Dan. Loving the thread title. It's groundhog day!

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
STG - Consolidate VS (2nds DONE | 7/10 leads), 12st 2lbs, 6a onsight.
MTG - Lead HVS, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 4lbs (no change)

M - Rest
T - Rest
W - 1 hour bouldering at v9/climb station
T - 5k run
F - Rest
S - Stretches and exercise
S - 2 hours at Dynamic Rock

If you believe that US Navy Body Fat calc, then I'm 12% body fat. The scales say 26%. I'm not sure I really believe either of them tbh. A good week of climbing (sadly indoors, had been hoping to go tradding yesterday). Lots of stuff on this week tho, BMC Area meeting, committee meeting, so not sure how much I'll get done. Hoping to start a regular swim session this week as well, so keep the cardio for the OMM going. Back up to an 8k run this week, hopefully my knee will be good. Also if the gym membership sorts itself out this week, then I'll be having a yoga session a week as well. So the week will hopefully end up with - M - Hill Intervals, T - Yoga, W - Climbing, T - Run, F - Rest, S / S - Weekend stuff (but deffo with a hill walk in there and then I'll be putting the swim session in to a morning, probably Monday.

Taking the things that I need to do to improve, just the top three, they are:

1 - Loose weight - 1/2 a stone would see me up another grade
2 - Improve footwork - not sure how I measure this, but still I know it'll make a difference
3 - Improve finger strength - there's some £30 finger boards on ebay, so need to get one and get started - just need to be able to hang off two three finger crimps for 10 secs

Indoors I'm hovering at 6a+/6b/v2, so that should take me up to 6c/7a. I've never actually put them down as the three things that I need to do to improve. The aim is to get them sorted by the start of next year. As I've got OMM training now, I'm unlikely to get much outdoors climbing in, so the consolidate VS goal seems like it'll be hard to hit. Ditto the onsight 6a goal (outside). So I might change to more indoorsy goals, just to keep them a bit streamlined.
grubes - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
nice one on edge lane mate looks well fun

In reply to Joughton:
Another epic week. Back to the wall this week with School/college starting? or try and get out in free periods?

In reply to Biscuit:
Sorry to hear about the rib. Just don't go injuring your elbows/fingers with keeping busy!

In reply to AJM:
Its strange how things work out init? Sadly your job ended early however its resulted in you having a climbing trip you probably would of never had without? How long you been away now.
Safe to say I am extremely jealous of your trip.
Hope you can find more work soon when you get back.

You may be only having 1 autumn trip this year but remeber the epic trip you have just had.

In reply to jimmykay:
Sounds like a good week. You may not of got the route you wanted to chee dale but a least you got two good 7bs. Its all good prep for Turkey.

In reply to Eagleriver:
Well done on the 7a flash. Sorry I was a bit off at the end of the session I was just really pissed off with myself. I think I should of tried just a little bit harder.
Now I have had chance to think about it. I guess three good RP attempts on a route at my limit is still a good day, espcially after a hard mileage day the day before. The route will go.
AJM - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to grubes:

Very true mate. I would have had a week in Cham, but Loup was an awesome additional extra. And I was away for 3 weeks but then managed under 12 hours at home before heading out again - I'm in the car on the way to Millstone at the moment, then up to the Lakes tonight, then probably passing home briefly on Friday on the way to Pembroke. I'm pretty sure it's not the sort of pe training I should be doing for Rodellar, but at least I'll be fit!
Kevster - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
Stamina is important, trad certainally trains that!
Joughton on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to grubes: Cheers grubes, and I'll probably have (if the weather is okay) a weekend day out, a wednesday evening in, and then hopefully I'll have an afternoon off when I can have a half day outside.

About the 7a at Trollers, I was thinking maybe just give it away? I know you've put a lot of work into it, but you've done Consenting now, and who knows you'll probably do something harder on your trip to the continent anyway, so there's plenty of better stuff to do. What I'm saying is if the route is getting you down, then just do something new, and don't let it become some obsession, because that makes the redpoints even harder because you're under more pressure if you get me? I'd recommend going to Trow Gill, where there's loads of really nice, enjoyable 7as and a softish 7a+ you could give a go if you wanted to push your grade:)
pebbles - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

tues: morning: core session + stretches. evening:wall session. managed to lob off a couple of times this session without getting over excited or calling Take.(which is my big issue on indoor/sport), 3 clean 6a+, then finished on laps of 4+/5.
weds: morning: 30 mins fingerboard and pull ups.did some stretches and pressups at dinnertime
thurs: morning: antagonistics evening: 2 hrs indoor bouldering.
fri: 30 minute lunchtime run
saturday: froggatt. tried to lead checquers buttress but messed it up. cant make the reach to the arete from the good holds, remembered managing with some intermediates on second once before but couldnt find the sequence this time- lobbed off three times before eventually getting across. But though it would have been nice to get up cleanly, I thought taking the lobs did me good - feeling much more confident about lobbing onto trad gear again now.
sunday - stanage day. some nice routes, beasted myself on wall buttress (strenuous offwidth), finished on verandah buttress - very thrutchy first move - absolutely knackered today, planning no physical activity whatsoever ;-D
Quiddity - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Thanks Dan. Fantastic work on Edge Lane. That must feel amazing.

Sorry for another missed week from me last week, I typed it out but never ended up posting it.

STG (2012)
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:33 +1
Redpoint a mega steep 7-something in Rodellar
Finish 8a pyramid (need: 1x7c, 1x7c+)
Onsight 7a+ in the UK (probably Portland given current weather)
Learn to drive
tick Nightmare Scenario and Road Rage
Infinite G - do all the moves, redpoint to first lower off.

MTG
Up bouldering game - climb V8 or equivalent route crux (eg. Breathing Method crux)
Beastmaker - one arm deadhang the incut edge on F3 o/h and 4F 1/2crimp for < 3s.

LTG - 2013/14
Infinite G


Week 284
Week 7 of 8 in volume phase. Starting to fatigue quite badly under repeated days on but this is expected to be my peak volume week (with next week being a transition to power endurance and a lower total move volume) so trying to really go for it.

Estimated move volume approx: 1611 moves (55%-36%-10%-0% Easy-Med-Hard-Thresh; 54% routes).
M:
T: shoulder stretches. ab workout. Hips stretch hamstrings and abductors. shoulder rehab. Volume bouldering, aiming to do all white, green and grey circuits and all problems up to v3. Mostly completed with some exceptions. 104 problems total, 656 moves. 68% easy. Felt v tired but limited by skin pain and toes, not strength. Pm shoulder internal rotations 1 set with theraband.
W: shoulder rehab. lead - tired, not great session. 11 pitches, 6a+6a+6b, 6c+ dog x3 (red on 20, got in overlapping sections) 6c+6c+6b+ + 6b+. Boulder - working pen problems. 3x v3, flashed both V4s, worked 2x v5. Pleased to still be able to boulder reasonably hard close to end of session. 316 moves total.
T: shoulder rehab. Ab workout. laps/intervals on traverse boulders. 6 complete laps on red v2 (6c?) 456 moves.
F:
S: Cuttings. Warmed up on Another Notch and thrashed on Live By The Sword. Put clips in NS doing all the moves bar the massive span. 2nd linking go on TR, reminded myself how to do all the moves.
S: Cuttings. Warmed up on Another Notch, and had a bolt-to-bolt on Unknown Arete. Redpointed UA 2nd go of the day. 2 goes on NS, on 2nd go (TR links) managed to link from the ground to the sloper past the crux, and then from the windmill move to the top (overlapping sections.) Really promising link but it has revealed I *definitely* can't clip off the sloper. There is just no way with the level of pump I am going to have at that point. Bugger. Going to have to consider basically skipping the clip. 1 more go to take practice fall off it.

Week 285.
Volume/Endurance transition week, aimed for slight reduction in overall volume but move of it in the 10 - 30 move range. Quite physically tired and life getting in the way a bit. Estimated move volume 1034 moves (18%-43%-38%-0% Easy-Med-Hard-Thresh; 39% routes).Nightmare Scenario coming together, getting to a move off the end of the hard climbing every go, and found a couple of tweaks which should mean I get there a touch fresher. Hopefully getting back on it on Thurs day trip.
M: bank holiday. Cuttings. Warmed up on too many cooks, New Saladin. Rain stopped play.
T: AM, arch. 58 problems total, Warm up, 30 blues+yellows, complete red circuit (16 problems, 1 failed) then working red 7b in tunnel. 501 moves total.
W: Castle - bouldering session. Faded quickly (from tuesday) - 3x V5 and 4xV4 on Mezz (new) and in Pen (repeats). 151 moves total
T
F: Castle. volume/endurance session. Circuit on Wave, 5 attempts linking avr. 17 moves. Black V4 in catacomb (7b?) 5 attempts, 13 moves avrg. Some bouldering on Mezz. 242 moves total. Foot on campus, 4 sets w/ 2m rest. 15(1:09), 8+4(1:01), 10+1(0:52), 8+1(0:48)
S
S: Portland, cuttings. Nightmare Scenario. 5 pitches: clips in, linking go, 3 redpoints. Power fade on all 3 redpoint attempts at jug/sloper after tech crux. Good news is I took the lob on all 3 attempts and am now no longer particularly scared of the route - just psyched to do it. Changed sequence slightly after last go - new foothold for throw to jug/pinch, and going to use rest before crux. 100 moves.
grubes - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Joughton: I was tempted to bin it but now I have had time to calm down and reflect I realised I want to climb the route.

It was originally for a grade chase as I blogged about not that long ago. The grade chase is over for 7a. the route is just amaaing fun. Boulder problem start. Followed by big juggy moves, to a technical or powerful top (depending on how you approach it mainly due to a wide sesction of crap foot holds).

I think if I leave it alone for a while and train. I should get it pretty quick.
Anyway I am keen for the catwalk just need some gloomy days for to get on it. Been told to try 7th ardwark from a mate who said it was not much harder than consenting... not sure I believe him but I will find out.
Ali - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Thanks Dan and nice one on your week - hardcore soloing!

Grubes - Agree that 7th Ardvark isn't much harder than consenting, and its a much nicer route - go for it!!

Quiddity - so CY is on Road Rage now, but could you be persuaded to cuttings again at some point to finish off NS??!! Need to try and get down to try out Kev's new beta for Want Out...

Anyway, last week I managed to get a fair amount of training in - yay! But this was mainly because I wasn't really working...oh if that could be the case all the time!.

M - Portland (reported in last week's post)
T - Morning bouldering at Reach - did 18 out of 23 blues (v1-3), so think they're a bit more reasonably graded that last time though still a few I think are a bit harsh! Skin sore after the weekend... Finished off with some core
W - Evening session at Arch - 4th day on!! Quite tired but managed a few of the easier purples. Got burned off on a easy slab problem due to inability to stand up... Few half hearted push ups/leg lifts to finish
T - Run - 49 mins, prob about 5.5 miles (need to measure!) - felt good, better than I have felt running for a while, probably helped by the fact that it was a bit cooler and drizzling - lovely running weather! 15min core
F - Short seession at the Arch in morning - didn't do much as still feeling knackered from earlier in the week. Worked a bit on 7a in tunnel - can now link through the first roof section ok, but get a bit stuck moving into the tunnel bit.
S - Rest - day of Paralympic events morning and afternoon equestrian sessions at Greenwich Park and evening session at the Olympic Stadium - inspiring!
S - Rest - Second day of Paralympic events - swimming in morning (v inspiring). Visited the giant Walkers crisp in afternoon and wandered up one of the (easy) routes. V tired due to lots of early mornings and running round London!

Core work is definitely feeling easier, so think the exercises are paying off a bit. 3 weeks to go to Rodellar, so need to get some more PE and stamina training in - think my strength is ok, but endurance is lacking. Will try and get a routes session in at Reach this week if I can get a partner and maybe focus more on endurance bouldering.
AJM - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Ali:

> Quiddity - so CY is on Road Rage now, but could you be persuaded to cuttings again at some point to finish off NS??!! Need to try and get down to try out Kev's new beta for Want Out...

Does this mean some congrats will be in order when she updates Fit Club this week...?

> Core work is definitely feeling easier, so think the exercises are paying off a bit. 3 weeks to go to Rodellar, so need to get some more PE and stamina training in - think my strength is ok, but endurance is lacking.

Definitely that time now Ali! I'm coming round more and more to the idea that 6-8 weeks is about what I need to get my power endurance properly ramped up before a trip, especially if you need a week or so taper period (so I'm told!) before the trip to force a peak...

Quiddity - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Ali:

> Quiddity - so CY is on Road Rage now, but could you be persuaded to cuttings again at some point to finish off NS??!! Need to try and get down to try out Kev's new beta for Want Out...

I think CY also making noises about trying HoM next so I don't think we have seen the end of the Cuttings yet :-) Give us a shout when you have a spare day to head down...
Ali - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM: So that means 2 weeks of solid PE training! :oS Oh dear, and next week is partially set aside for end of Games boozing...personally I am not totally fussed about all night drinking sessions, but I suspect many of my colleagues will be less than impressed if I head off early!

May try and fit some lunchtime 4x4 sessions in to compensate!
Ali - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Quiddity: Well I was thinking of possibly heading down for the day Sunday (maybe going down Sat night) if forecast is ok...will email!
Kevster - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Ali:
I still have HOM to finish too, I'm a gnat's whisker away from clean. Does anyone do mid weeks, or is everyone mon-fri types? My weekends are very busy for the next 6-8 weeks but i'd like to get to portland again within that time. Volunteers for the cuttings are sometimes thin on the ground around my way (NE london/M11).

Kev.

AJM - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Ali:

Tapering isn't resting - I got told off for that! You keep the intensity really high, drop any easy low volume stuff, cut overall volume by about 50% but leave the high intensity end. So you've got 3 weeks really still.

In reply to Kevster:

I am free for midweeks from next week, happy to do Portland although it doesn't help you transport-wise!
Kevster - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
I'll see how the work pans out, and be in touch.
If the petrol's all mine, then the ramp needs love too.
Sankey - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Good suggestion on a harder Peak project, in fact I had a trip to Malham at the weekend and spent some time dangling from Consenting Adults. Enjoyed it, need two rests on a top rope , if nothing else was a good work-out...

M:
T:
W: Matrix bouldering
T:
F:
S: Malham, dangling from a 7a
S: ditto


STG: Get back into bouldering, trips to wall and outdoor circuits

MTG: Walnut Traverse at Birchen / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks
LTG: Font 7a - want to get on some traverses at this grade at Churnet

(VLTG: 7a Sport - can't see a route to this yet, managing 6b ish o/s but only after a fair few days on to get head back, e.g. end of a sport climbing holiday. Not climbing on a rope often enough due to partners/vague lack of quality/inspiration at these grades in UK,and would also need to find and commit to some red-point projects)
Curious Yellow - on 03 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:

Argh sorry posting two weeks again. Slack.
Nice work on Edge Lane, it looks beautiful and totally terrifying.

Mon - Heading home from Cornwall.
Tues - Castle. Good boulder.
Wedns - Castle. Either the problems are easy at the moment or I'm a bit stronger...
Thurs - Arch. 11 reds, 3 purple spots and some time in the tunnel. Totally wiped out.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Cuttings. Elbow recovered enough to get back on Nightmare Scenario.
Sun - Cuttings. Managed a decent redpoint at the end of the day, got through crux but then totally unable to take a hand off to clip.

Mon - Warmed up but the rain kept getting heavier. Retreated to the cafe.
Tues - Castle.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Castle. Working through the mezz V4s.
Sat - Rest.
Sun - Cuttings. Victory day - 1st 7c :-))

Kev (and Ali) - very keen for HoM but sadly I'm a Mon-Fri type. Might be able to get the odd mid week day with some notice though?


Ali - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Kevster: I'm on nights most of this week, then back to 'normal' office hours next week - boo! :o( Unless I miraculously get given loads of TOIL pretty tight on leave too so would struggle to take mid-week days off

AJM - ah, ok - so shorter sessions but still trying hard - that's probably an average session for me! Though I'm hoping that the volume I've been doing recently will help my skin toughen up if nothing else!

Cider Yellow - YAY! Well done, huge achievement :o)
catt on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Curious Yellow:

Astounding! Awesome work and congratulations! Seems I've got some catching up to do with you two this year!! :-)
AJM - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to catt:

Pull your finger out and get cranking Iain! :)

Effort CY!
grubes - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Curious Yellow: congrats!!
Joughton on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Curious Yellow: Well done!
biscuit - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Curious Yellow:

I'd have missed everything else out and just put 7C in bold capitals :)

Hard work rewarded, well done.
Si dH - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan, maybe 'll try for 100 chins again this week.

Edge Lane is one of those routes that I looked up in awe at the first time I went to the crag (in this case Millstone) and never thought I'd climb. It looks both terrifying and desperate. I want to say I find it inspiring that someone I'd consider roughly my climbing equal has actually gone and onsighted the thing - and I do - but it's also a bit scary. Massive congrats.

Anyway, the reason I'm posting late this week is that I'd been hanging on a bit in the hope of adding to the general success stories this week - and I've succeeded! :) So, a week and a bit below...

Short term goals (spring/summer):
- maintain weight at just below 11 stone **currently 11 stone 2**
- Tick off a good list of E2s or harder trad including Darius **so far this year done Savage Messiah, Black Wall Eliminate, Erasmus, Soyuz, Armageddon, Scoop Wall, Darius, The Strand, Foil (E3), Grond**
- Do a High Tor E3 and one or two others **failed - Mad Dogs and Englishmen, succeeded - Foil**
-Start working towards 7c pyramid - **for progress see below**

Medium term goals (autumn):
- Grit E3
- Complete 7c pyramid (8*7a+, 4*7b, 2*7b+, 1*7c) **now need 1*7a+, 1*7b, 1*7b+ and 0*7c - ticked Stone the Loach**

Long term goals (2013): - Tick 7c in France or Spain - Multiple grit and limestone E3s

M: Rest
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Not a bad session but didn't manage anything new despite going so far as to put on my decent shoes for particular heel hook problem. It's quite high and scary. I repeated quite a few V4-ish things.
W: Nothing
T: Nothing
F: Nothing (was a hard week at work this week, little time/energy in evenings)
S: Nothing (trip to Thorpe Park - lots of walking if that counts as training?!?)
S: Cheedale Embankment, got back on Stone the Loach. On first RP attempt, was pleased to get through crux and then fell off when my foot came off as I hit the hold on the first big move above. Second RP I managed that move but then came off the last hard move just slightly higher - gutted. Then repeated that 3rd go, and 4th RP attempt I fell again at the first big move after the crux - was getting tired. So close! But really pleased to stick the crux every attempt and feel really close to doing it.
M: Rest!
T: Took the afternoon off work to get back to the Embankment quickly as I'm away next weekend. Did Prawnography to warm up, put the clips in Stone the Loach, then did it first RP attempt! First F7c! It's a great route too. Well chuffed :)))

Training-wise last week was poor but so pleased to have ticked 7c today. Even just a couple of years ago when I started sport climbing seriously, it was a grade that to me was way, way off, that you had to be a really very good climber to achieve. Can't quite believe I've managed it. It feels like a much bigger milestone to me than 7b did, or even 7a.
I feel kind of relaxed now as I've ticked my biggest goals for the year (F7c and Foil). Although I haven't yet filled out the 7c pyramid completely, I'm feeling more keen for trad now. I think I'll just go with the flow on my next few days out and see what gets me psyched.
This beer tastes good :)

P.S. nice one Curious Yellow too!!

Si
ayuplass - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
Mon - kettle bells at home
Tuesday - nowt
Weds - gym warmed up on X- trainer, couldn't get my HR up too much without coughing so stayed at a steady level, weights on machines, deadhangs and stretches
Thurs - nowt
Fri - nowt
Sat - ended up working all day
Sun - hardcore gardening action

No climbing at all this week, poor. Felt good to get back to the gym again. Got myself a plan of action and found my motivation again for this week though :)
Daniel Heath - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Thanks mate, kind words.

I think I probably climbed it by disassociation rather than association, if that makes sense. I was quite ill and tired but also confident, and I don't think I fully appreciated the exposure. I just kind of denied the fear. If I was fresh and "with it" I probably wouldn't have done it.

Massive congrats to yourself and Curious yellow for 7cs! Really strong effort!
Si dH - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
Ps Andy you are climbing so much at the moment that its almost cheating! Trip plans sound great.
Joughton on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH: Another first 7c, well done! Plus Stone the Loach isn't at all an easy 7c - it's massively harder than Sturgeon in the Cupboard which gets 7c now, just a few routes to the right.

I'm hoping to get on both of them this Autumn, I may be asking you for beta later on...
ads.ukclimbing.com
AJM - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

Nice one Si!

You've got a week in Kalymnos planned, youre not doing too badly on the trips front yourself! And with a 7c under your belt I'll be expecting great things :)

Hopefully get some work towards the onsight/trad goal this week - forget how many I have until I hit the years goal, but I can't be too far off. Still not sure whether I'll end up onsighting or redpointing come Rodellar, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it...
Si dH - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to AJM:
I think the kalymnos plan for me will be onsighting mileage - would like to finally onsight 7a and feel like it should be doable.
What did you get done at Millstone or is that a surprise for next week?
Cheers all!
AJM - on 04 Sep 2012
In reply to Si dH:

I was shattered from the long day Sunday, the drive back, the short turnaround and the early start, so nothing at Millstone really. And today was cold, chilly wind and not enough sun.

Hopes for tomorrow being a day of greater ticking success.
thebigfriendlymoose - on 04 Sep 2012
Eagle River
> Sun: kilnsey wet so off to trollers with grubes and a mate of mine. After warming up I flashed Jim Grin which is my first ever 7a flash. Pretty happy with that. Afterwards I tried a pretty minging 7b+, won't be rushing back on that one

Well done on flashing Jim Grin. Which 7b+ did you try, Cold Turkey, Smouldering? If you haven't tried it, I highly recommend Smouldering, really intense, sequency climbing, lovely moves for the first half. If you fancy it, I can provide move-by-move beta. Mind you, I suspect Grubes might be able to too... he certainly had to catch me enough times! Btw if you want to raise your best flash grade, Angel Delight (next to Haslan) is a pretty good candidate, 7a+ on the logbook and didn't seem to nasty.
grubes - on 05 Sep 2012
In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
> Eagle River

> Btw if you want to raise your best flash grade, Angel Delight (next to Haslan) is a pretty good candidate, 7a+ on the logbook and didn't seem to nasty.

Standard Moose 8ft tall 15ft reach waiver applies
mrchewy - on 06 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath: Too excited to wait! 79.8kg this morning, that's 4kg lost since the Alps in July and an ace birthday pressie for today - get in!
hokkyokusei - on 07 Sep 2012
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> Hokkyokusei – Another one for weight loss, at least we have Biscuit’s example of the discipline required over a long time. Good luck.

Cheers. Late this week, because I've just got back from walking in the lakes.

m - Hol
t - Trail running - 6.02 km
w - Road running - 5.5 km
t - Cycling - 5.59, 5.65 km
f - Cycling - 5.56, 5.59 km
s -
s - Hiking - 10.87 km (Keswick to Coledale Hause via Grisedale Pike & Hobcarton Crag)

STG
Cycle at least 40 km / week
Run at least 15 km / week
Get to the climbing wall once / week

MTG
Lose weight. I'd like to see how 75 kg feels (currently 82)
Run faster & further (not necessarily in combination)
Do some multipitch climbing

LTG
Climb big mountains.
Avoid a heart attack.

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