In reply to Daniel Heath:
Thanks Dan. Fantastic work on Edge Lane. That must feel amazing.
Sorry for another missed week from me last week, I typed it out but never ended up posting it.
STG (2012)
Tick 100 7s (45 in 2012) Done:33 +1
Redpoint a mega steep 7-something in Rodellar
Finish 8a pyramid (need: 1x7c, 1x7c+)
Onsight 7a+ in the UK (probably Portland given current weather)
Learn to drive
tick Nightmare Scenario and Road Rage
Infinite G - do all the moves, redpoint to first lower off.
MTG
Up bouldering game - climb V8 or equivalent route crux (eg. Breathing Method crux)
Beastmaker - one arm deadhang the incut edge on F3 o/h and 4F 1/2crimp for < 3s.
LTG - 2013/14
Infinite G
Week 284
Week 7 of 8 in volume phase. Starting to fatigue quite badly under repeated days on but this is expected to be my peak volume week (with next week being a transition to power endurance and a lower total move volume) so trying to really go for it.
Estimated move volume approx: 1611 moves (55%-36%-10%-0% Easy-Med-Hard-Thresh; 54% routes).
M:
T: shoulder stretches. ab workout. Hips stretch hamstrings and abductors. shoulder rehab. Volume bouldering, aiming to do all white, green and grey circuits and all problems up to v3. Mostly completed with some exceptions. 104 problems total, 656 moves. 68% easy. Felt v tired but limited by skin pain and toes, not strength. Pm shoulder internal rotations 1 set with theraband.
W: shoulder rehab. lead - tired, not great session. 11 pitches, 6a+6a+6b, 6c+ dog x3 (red on 20, got in overlapping sections) 6c+6c+6b+ + 6b+. Boulder - working pen problems. 3x v3, flashed both V4s, worked 2x v5. Pleased to still be able to boulder reasonably hard close to end of session. 316 moves total.
T: shoulder rehab. Ab workout. laps/intervals on traverse boulders. 6 complete laps on red v2 (6c?) 456 moves.
F:
S: Cuttings. Warmed up on Another Notch and thrashed on Live By The Sword. Put clips in NS doing all the moves bar the massive span. 2nd linking go on TR, reminded myself how to do all the moves.
S: Cuttings. Warmed up on Another Notch, and had a bolt-to-bolt on Unknown Arete. Redpointed UA 2nd go of the day. 2 goes on NS, on 2nd go (TR links) managed to link from the ground to the sloper past the crux, and then from the windmill move to the top (overlapping sections.) Really promising link but it has revealed I *definitely* can't clip off the sloper. There is just no way with the level of pump I am going to have at that point. Bugger. Going to have to consider basically skipping the clip. 1 more go to take practice fall off it.
Week 285.
Volume/Endurance transition week, aimed for slight reduction in overall volume but move of it in the 10 - 30 move range. Quite physically tired and life getting in the way a bit. Estimated move volume 1034 moves (18%-43%-38%-0% Easy-Med-Hard-Thresh; 39% routes).Nightmare Scenario coming together, getting to a move off the end of the hard climbing every go, and found a couple of tweaks which should mean I get there a touch fresher. Hopefully getting back on it on Thurs day trip.
M: bank holiday. Cuttings. Warmed up on too many cooks, New Saladin. Rain stopped play.
T: AM, arch. 58 problems total, Warm up, 30 blues+yellows, complete red circuit (16 problems, 1 failed) then working red 7b in tunnel. 501 moves total.
W: Castle - bouldering session. Faded quickly (from tuesday) - 3x V5 and 4xV4 on Mezz (new) and in Pen (repeats). 151 moves total
T
F: Castle. volume/endurance session. Circuit on Wave, 5 attempts linking avr. 17 moves. Black V4 in catacomb (7b?) 5 attempts, 13 moves avrg. Some bouldering on Mezz. 242 moves total. Foot on campus, 4 sets w/ 2m rest. 15(1:09), 8+4(1:01), 10+1(0:52), 8+1(0:48)
S
S: Portland, cuttings. Nightmare Scenario. 5 pitches: clips in, linking go, 3 redpoints. Power fade on all 3 redpoint attempts at jug/sloper after tech crux. Good news is I took the lob on all 3 attempts and am now no longer particularly scared of the route - just psyched to do it. Changed sequence slightly after last go - new foothold for throw to jug/pinch, and going to use rest before crux. 100 moves.