/ Mis-graded climb in the pass?
Why do we always expect our routes to be squeaky clean? We have had a slightly damper than average year so veg has grown better than usual and water has stayed in places where it usually does not. Have done Bole Way several times over the years, some good bits, some veg, no problem. Chuck in some water on the smooth Wastad rock and it is a different story and you are always in for a thrilling time, then the OK protection seems distant and the climbing very insecure. Once rattled it is hard to get recomposed! Climbing is an adventure, sometimes more so than we might like, I can suggest several Craig Cowarch routes if you would like to repeat this type of experience.
Sounds like a proper VS mountain experience ! I blame gritstone for leading people to expect pristine clean rock all the time. VS should be a 'real' climbing grade with all that entails in terms of judgement and skill.
Babel, magic, was even better when it was VS!
"I blame gritstone for leading people to expect pristine clean rock all the time." What on earth are you talking about... at least half of gritstone routes need traffic to stay clean and a good proprotion of these don't get enough.
> Babel, magic, was even better when it was VS!
Yes, good, but didn't seem any harder than VS. Not as good as the superb Karwendal Wall nearby.
Paul Williams didn't give it any stars. Another on the Wastad that the didn't give any stars to was The Cornix (HVS), which I remember as being very good and worth at least one star.
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