/ NEWS: Ondra vs Flatanger update

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC News - on 30 Sep 2012
Adam Ondra on an off an unnamed 8c+/9a in the Hanshelleren cave, Flatanger, Norway, 4 kbThe other day, Adam Ondra got really close to making the first ascent of his The Change-project in the Hanshelleren cave, Flatanger, Norway.
Petr Pavlicek tells the story: 2 days ago, after climbing the first 9a+ pitch again (now starting to think again about 9b just for the single first pitch, it...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67474
Tyler - on 30 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC News:

What's the thing about a first and second pitch? Is it climbed as two pitches or just an intermediate lower off? Is there a rest between the two, if not, how hard is the second pitch reckoned to be on it's own?
Morgan Woods - on 30 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Climbing action shot of the year?
James Oswald - on 30 Sep 2012
In reply to Morgan Woods:
Awesome isn't it, I particularly like the one of him falling.
Björn Pohl - UKC - on 30 Sep 2012
In reply to Tyler:
The full line is 55 meters and the plan is to climb it as one single pitch. A while back Adam did the first part, a 9a+ (or possibly even 9b) in its own right and now he is working on the full link. What the end of the first part looks like, I don't know, but I suspect there is some kind of possible rest point... How difficult the second part is, I don't know either and it's meaningless to speculate without knowing how good the (possible) rest is. If I can find something out I'll add it to the news.
Quarryboy - on 30 Sep 2012
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: "Adam does not say that it is 9b+... He says that is is hardest 9b he has ever tried, maybe it could be very close to the level of 9b+. But as I know him, I doubt he will claim it 9b+, althought it is 9a+/b into 9a..."
Quarryboy - on 30 Sep 2012
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: The rest: "No, the belayer is still on the ground. But... how to describe it with my poor english... Approximately in 2/3 of the first pitch, after getting out of the "different universe"corner, Adam "hangs" by one hand and very bad knee, belayer belays off, walkes quickly under Adam, Adam pull the rope down to him, and the belayer belays him the rest of the route from this new position..."
PeterJuggler - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Quarryboy: I guess this is similar to how Ali-Hulk extension was climbed, but in that case you're not far off the ground while pulling the rope through. How high is Adam while off-belay hanging by one arm and a bad knee?
shark - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to PeterJuggler:
> (In reply to Quarryboy) I guess this is similar to how Ali-Hulk extension was climbed, but in that case you're not far off the ground while pulling the rope through. How high is Adam while off-belay hanging by one arm and a bad knee?



Chances are he could clip into , but not weight, a sling whilst off belay
puppythedog on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News: He could borrow Chris Sharma's rope from the Clarke Mountain route?
Hardonicus - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to shark: Yes but the sling would be guaranteed to snap due to the huge forces induced by a fall on static tape.
In reply to Hardonicus:
> Yes but the sling would be guaranteed to snap due to the huge forces induced by a fall on static tape.

Guaranteed? Really?


Chris
PeterJuggler - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Hardonicus:
> (In reply to shark) Yes but the sling would be guaranteed to snap due to the huge forces induced by a fall on static tape.
I doubt it since he wouldn't fall far. The question is would it be considered a valid redpoint?
James Malloch - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to PeterJuggler:
> (In reply to Hardonicus)
> [...]
> I doubt it since he wouldn't fall far. The question is would it be considered a valid redpoint?


If it wasn't weighted, surely it's no different to resting with a loose rope which you could fall on?
Hardonicus - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to Chris Craggs: Just a bit of UKC mimicry. Soz...
PeterJuggler - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to James Malloch: Why not top-rope it then, as long as you don't weight the rope?
lithos on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to shark:

or use 2 ropes ?
In reply to Hardonicus:
> (In reply to Chris Craggs) Just a bit of UKC mimicry. Soz...

You had me going there for a mo - nice one!


Chris
RedPin - on 01 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:

I imagine he would pull in a little slack, tie a one-handed clove, and then ask to go off belay.
royal - on 03 Oct 2012
Amazing super wonderkid does potential hardest route in the galaxy on epic granite rock cave. UKC users argue over validity of how he changes ropes between pitches. Sometimes I just feel embarrased.
Kemics - on 03 Oct 2012
In reply to royal:

but never surprised :)

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.