/ NEWS: INTERVIEW: Tomoko Ogawa, the first woman to boulder 8B+

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UKC News - on 23 Oct 2012
Tomoko Ogawa on Catharsis, 8B+, Shiobara, Japan, 3 kbA few days ago, Tomoko Ogawa became the first woman to climb a confirmed 8B+ boulder problem by repeating Dai Koyamada's Catharsis at Shiobara in Japan. The problem had previously only been repeated by Daniel Woods who confirmed the grade.
I decided to make an interview with Tomoko, and with some...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67550
Richard Hession on 24 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News: Really impressive! There was a good video not long ago with woods climbing here and it all looked fairly nails.
ablackett - on 25 Oct 2012
In reply to Richard Hession: Can anyone explain the photo at the top of this article.

It looks to me like she is above a puddle in a cave, but I wouldn't expect a puddle to give a good reflection like that.

It also looks like the flash is further away from the camera than her, but her shadow makes it look like the flash is under her.

It also looks like she is nowhere near the mats.

Is it just a mash up of various shots?
jkarran - on 25 Oct 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Wow, that's properly inspirational!
jk
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Dan Arkle - on 25 Oct 2012
In reply to ablackett: I think the photo is legit.

Its at night (or very dim) so with a still puddle, the reflection should be very clear, as there is not much other stray light around to compete with the reflection.

I expect there are at least two off camera flashes, trying to light her well and bounce light off the roof onto her face to make sure she is recognisable. Only the strongest light source will give much shadow.

She does look a bit like she isn't over the mats, but the video shows that too, maybe she's on an easier bit of the problem that doesn't need matting well. It could be that she's tiny and using big mats, which makes the perspective look odd. The reflection is right where it should be if she is just to this side of the mats.

And what a great effort, well earned after 40 days effort over several years and specific training.

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