/ UKC Fit club 301
Let’s take extra care with our diet this Christmas. Binging is not cool, or even attractive.
I hope everyone manages to squeeze in some fitness around visiting relatives.
Have a lovely Christmas.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (300) thread:
Kevster – Well done on the reds. It’s great when a hard route is so wired it feels easy.
MrChewey – That’s some discipline going alcohol free this month. I’ll be handing over fit club in the New Year, so have a great time in Scotland and Wales. Good work on the V3s and the Ultra Marathon and adventure race. I read your blogs again and you certainly have some big achievements to be proud of.
Ally Smith – Good luck training hard whist avoiding injury. Too tired to stay out with work do? Can only be a good thing :P
AJM – Well done not eating too much. Really positive week there! Sessions look great and focussed. 49 pull ups, so close. Good luck in the long term, 8a would be an immense achievement ;)
IainRUK – Another quality week Iain.
Annak – Fair point about keeping it fun, which is the ultimate goal. Congrats on 10k PB, which probably justifies your rest day. Have a good time in Spain.
Si_dH – Well done on a strong day bouldering. I hope it gives you the focus to eat well. You have well surpassed your 2008 goals. I might suggest that your trad grade is just waiting to be bumped up when you decide to cash in on your sport climbing improvements :P
Grubes – A new fitness phase? Good luck mate and work hard. It’s good to look back and realise you achieved most of your goals. Maybe the weight loss required some more focus now?
NMN – Solid week with no slacking.
Exile – Resting for the cold is totally understandable, I have wasted a few sessions by going to the wall out of routine and not being fit to do anything.
JimmyKay – Great result from the Comp Jimmy, and the best week you’ve posted in a while. I’m jealous of your outdoors plans this Christmas. Enjoy them!
Maria85 – Strong week there. I wonder if your “failures” are due to an optimistic week plan rather than laziness. Feel free to prove me wrong if you can in fact squeeze all that in a week!
Ali – Well done on orienteering result. Shame about the abundance of rest days :P
Seankenny – Sorry to hear about your mum. Hope you manage to do more this week.
Mattrm – Looks like your “no rest day” plan is working out well. Eager to hear how this week went with the works do? I’m glad to hear you feel like you’ve improved a lot since 2009.
Joughton – Positive report from you Jake. Have fun getting strong fingers. Make sure you don’t lose too much strength you might have gained. I made that error. Stanage sounds like a fun day.
Ian Bell – Sounds like good progress bouldering. Route climbing sometimes feels a bit mechanical after some time off. Hopefully you’ll find the flow again and enjoy being strong for the cruxes!
Nomics4Sale – Good sessions then. It definitely pays to go all out when trying routes. I went there for the first time this week, loved it.
Eagle River – Wow you’re really smashing the routes eh. Hope it pays off outside. I went there for the first time this week, thought the grades were not soft. “Warmed up” on a black 6b+ that scared me a little.
Pebbles – I’m glad you felt the C25K the next day, wouldn’t want you to find it too easy! Lots of sessions there, and good to have a big day outdoors.
Biscuit – Good luck with interval training. I rate it highly if you have the motivation to work hard by yourself. If you’re working hard enough, I don’t think you need to do it “most days” eg 3x per week is plenty as it is very intense. Hope you manage 7a onsight soon mate.
Oddtoast – Good routes session then, falls are very helpful to remind you that they’re no big deal. Have a great Christmas and enjoy running when you can!
Quiddity – Nice to see you pop in. I hope you can find ways to enjoy climbing in 2012. I often wonder about a time when I know I’m not improving physically – maybe a good time to headpoint some hard trad?
Richard Pop – 3x run and fingerboard sounds good. I’m sure you’ll improve a lot from both.
Curious Yellow – Strong week. Crashing is a sign of working hard previously. You’ll be stronger from it now 
So I'll be handing fit club over to Grubes for a month or two in the new year.
We'll be looking for someone to take it on relatively long term.
Please have a think if it's something you can commit to.
I find it takes about 90 min a week.
STG-back up to Font 7A's on grit (by end of january)
MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)
LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)
Christmas is seriously eating into my time at the moment and the weather has been awful. Also started the week in bed with sickness and diorreha.
Managed to sort out my STG though, retro-flashed a damp Trackside and climbed Bad Lip so the 7A's are starting to come back again.
Not much climbing to be done over the christmas though, travelling to Lancaster for christmas then deepest, darkest Cornwall for the new year. Hoping to get out for a bit of trad in Cornwall and will probably manage a bit of bouldering at Clodgy or Carn Brea., but no training.
Cheers Dan. I don't know if you have a successor for FC lined up yet, but whilst I don't really want to go back to full timing it I'm happy to do the odd weekend, same sort of thing as when you were away over the summer...
Had Christmas with my folks yesterday, and my better halfs Christmas do on thurs too, so some eating did occur, but on the other hand not too much - I went to Chorro last christmas at about 75, I'll hit turkey this time nearer 72.
But anyway, the climbing... The theme for this week was intense sessions but with lots of rest between them to try and get a taper going on. Will be climbing out there tomorrow by about lunch, very psyched, lots of things to try and do...
Monday - Warehouse. Just focused on the boulder circuit. First go I think i got to about move 26, second go I nailed it! That meant time to add anther harder move, which I did, and had about 4 goes, getting to about move 21, then 26, then 26/7 about 3 times I think. Good intense session.
Tuesday - Warehouse. About 5 more goes on the boulder circuit. Nailed it first go I think! So, cue again for another harder move right at the end, had about 4 more goes failing at move 26/7 a couple of times and move 29, where the new crux was, a couple of times. Another good hard session on it. Then managed to get a couple of routes in. Had an onsight burn on the leading ladder 7b, which to be honest is probably more like a 7a+ or something, certainly in comparison with the one next to it. But anyway, I climbed pretty well, was pleased with my movement quality, got over the roof at the top, and fell off about 2 holds from the top - didn't spot a handhold and a foothold that would have been crucial. Probably could have done it if I had. But still, I'm well pleased with the effort. Then got on the neighbouring one which is a whole different kettle of fish. Had a good burn, got my hands to the pocket over the roof but just couldnt get my feet onto the lip. Still, another good quality effort.
Friday - Birmingham bouldering centre. I figured a session reminding my body about pulling hard wouldn't go amiss, plus they don't have as many facilities to do stamina at the minute because they had comp problems still up on their circuit board. So, i flashed a load of stuff off their V4-5 circuits, flashed a V5 comp problem, very flashable mind, basic crimpy holds on a steep wall (purple on the wall that's usually their circuit board, for anyone who has tried it), got spanked by a bunch of stuff, and spent a while trying one of the women's final problems, a cool blue V6. Didn't quite manage to nail it, but I made progress, and it's good to know that I'm still able to put the power down at a good (for me) level despite having been doing pe. Had some fun trying a yellow prob with a kneebar, but holding the swing to get your foot across as you came out of the knee bar was tough and I didn't quite get it.
Might go for a walk today, don't know yet.
Anyway, that's my training done - I've worked hard, and if all else fails I've got the knee pads packed to bring the routes down to my level. Might be able to update logbook or 8a or FC whilst out there, not sure yet, but if not then have a great Christmas everyone, happy cranking for those who are getting some festive climbing in, and I'll see you all on the other side in January...
Mon - rest, climbed both days on the weekend
Tue - fingers and tips still a little sore
Wed - Bouldering at MCC, flashed a few of the techy V6s and a few of the burlier ones. Not much crimpy stuff so nothing to gauge any finger strength improvement on but a good session, but I burnt out quickly.
Thurs - rest
Fri - Christmas stuff - last day of college!
Sat - Fancied a change so went to the Foundry, I quite like it there, the routes are more interesting and varied than my normal walls. Had a bit of a hard time getting used to the style but had a good session: warmed up then onsighted a few 6c+s and two 7as, fell of a few 7b/+s - had to drop my grade a little because I wasn't used to such a steep wall.
Sun - planning to go for a run when it warms up a bit...
END OF TERM!! WHeeeeyyyyy!!
Wow, the comp last Sun completely destroyed my skin. Tried to go for a climb on Weds, but it ended in misery. Almost went through 2 tips. It was like I'd be climbing the in Peak. Was a little worried with Spain so close. Fortunately it seems to have healed up a bit now. Going for a last session today before Rodellar. Flights are on Weds but won't be climbing til Thursday, which gives me a good rest time between today and then. SO PSYCHED.
M-Nothing (nursed my skinless fingers)
W-BBC. Gutted about my skin. Was so psyched to get back on the comp problems but it was too painful and I was literally secreting out of my tips.
S-Going down Boulder Central for my last indoor session of the year!!!
BARCA ON WEDS. Ole, Ole. Ole, Ole.
Merry christmas to you too, and everyone else.
This week had good intentions, but work, 4 christmas meals and one suprise birthday party all conspired against climbing time.
I managed one indoors session, figured volume was the key as I'm in spain next week. So did 24 routes between 6a and 6c, all clean, all on lead and in blocks of 4 one imediately after another. Was going good but the finger niggle came back so stopped at 6 sets. I think I may try for a few hours tomorrow and see how it goes, but then could be tempted outside.....
Anyone know how wet cuttings/brean down are currently? Just as an aside.
Next week, I'm in Chorro - Biscuit or anyone else, feel free to get in touch and have a climb/beer.
I'd like to get on a couple of 7c's with maybe the hope of RP'ing one.
Ambitions (not all) and to be honest I'll be happy with just one clean ascent. Been a while since I have pulled hard outside, so not too much expectation:
Frontales - Alicia 7b+, Honk Down 7c, Anak Sunamun 7c, Viejo Traidor
Arabe Steps - Birdy 7b+, Rock the Kasbah 7b
Gorge - La Canastera 7b+
Others - a day at El Polvorin, Makinodromo, Desplo & Africa in the Gorge.
The other ambition would be to onsight a 7a+, as I have only flashed this grade before.
All I need to do is tie on and hope for pucker weather.
Possibly won't post mid trip, depends on computer access etc.
All the best, Kev.
Thanks Dan, the slacking came this week.
STG: Snowdon Race - beat last years time. - Fail
Cuillin Ridge Traverse - 2 day attempt. - Tick
Just to get out climbing again (struggle to run and climb, running has won for the last 2 years or so).
Ben Nevis Race - beat last years time. - Tick
Sub 40 min 10km. - Tick
Get back to regularly onsighting VS / HS.
LTG: Push trad grade.
M - 5.02m road run, 67ft.
T - rest.
W – 5m road run, 113ft.
T – 5.1m trail run, 73ft.
F – nothing.
S - christmas drinking.
S - hangover.
My longest post in a long time
Instructing fellow students in Wales this week. This means guaranteed climbing although often restricted to the agenda of the group.
M-Beacon. Still sore from the Depot but did a few good leads:
6c exciting bobbly arch
7a on BMC leading ladder
7c with ~4 rests
-3.5 mile run before sunrise.
-Outdoor toproping. I lead a VS which was a challenge in my new 5.10 approach shoes.
-Tried 10000 tons of chicken shit E5 but downclimbed and toproped it instead. Toproped it clean first go in fading light, but a different way to how I was trying to lead it. This was encouraging, and pulling off hard moves on Slate is always very releasing for me.
-Comes the Dervish at night with headtorches. The runout start got me much more scared than I remember last time! The rest is a dream, never too hard and so atmospheric. First good lead since the summer, even if it was a repeat.
W-Indy climbing wall. A bit trashed from the previous two days.
-6 mile slow run in the dark with mates, round the Nant Ffrancon loop. A lot of fun.
T-Flying Buttress, Dinas Cromlech. Multipitch experience for Novice second. Lots of fun and a sense of adventure in the terrible weather.
F-AW Stockport. Wow I didn't know how good this wall is. Good session for me (Maybe Eagle River can relate to these routes?):
black 6b+. felt almost too hard for a warm up
pink 7a BMC leading ladder. Cool route and close for me
Orange 7a+. Finally a route that I felt I achieved due to endurance training this term. Very rewarding.
Orange 7b. One fall at the top going for the mono (probz wrong hold) Again, the route reading/endurance felt good up to that point.
Greem 6c on the tall wall. Leading such a long route is fun.
S-Offset pull ups 5 x ~4 each hand. This time I'm trying to keep the movement more specific by both hands facing away. This means it doesn't feel as "deep" but I think it will be more useful in climbing.
-One arm press ups 5 x 5 each hand. Wow these are def worth doing for fitness, uses a lot of muscles in a different way to normal exercises.
-9.3 mile steady run. Went without a watch for the freedom of burning calories by mile and not being concerned about the time.
S-Close arm press ups 5 x 18
-First repeaters session in ages! 3/7 pattern. 8 x 1 minute sets. Failed on the very last rep - how's that for pacing!
Diet plan works well. I failed on one day due to the pressure of a big Christmas meal with friends, but I've picked myself up and thankfully my family don't mind me trying to be healthy.
Anyways - as you said, it's been a great year and to keep me focused, I've entered Dirty Weekend in May. 20 miles off-road running with 20 assualt coures, so need to start packing the cardio and stamina back into the training schedule. After chrimbo.
Weight 79.4kg Started the month at 80kg, so on target to be less at the end as once I'm away, it will fall off. Still had no alcohol. Been having tests again to see if a brain tumour has returned - turns out I have high growth hormone again, not a good thing but would explain why I've not lost weight like I should have this year. That's an excuse tho, really need to be strict with the diet in the new year.
Goal 75kg in summer.
Mon - Bouldering Pinnacle. Repeated the roof V3, tried to do the tiny edged V2 (downgraded from V3) on the slab.
Tue - Bouldering. Short session as fingertips were ruined. Got feet to top footholds but one handhold short of finishing the V2 on the slab. Fingers literally trashed.
Wed - Started doing pullup work by lowering slowly for a while. Did 3 properly. Route session. I have no stamina, so it needs sorting.
Led a 5+ but needed a rest after the roof! How bad was that? Doing the pull up thing a couple of hours before didn't help.
Fri - Routes session. All the f6 routes were on the overhanging comp wall
5 x slab top rope one after the other in f5
3 x f4 vertical one after the other
2 x 5+ Lead cleanly
1 x 6a+ Second cleanly
1 x 6b Lead with rests
1 x 6a Lead with rests
13 routes in total
Sat - My xmas day. Good food, kids and pressies. 3hr phonecall to a very nice lady.
Sun - Sociable climb at Pinnacle. Short.
3 x boulder problems
1 x f4 tope rope
1 x 5+ Lead
1 x 6b+ Lead on the big overhang. Worked to 5th clip but breezed to 3rd clip and past 4th, so climbed back down. Rested clipped 4th and 5th but back clipped 5th, noticed when I'd gone past and climbed back down to sort it. Proper pumped by then so lowered.
So tried my first 6b+. Got the the top of my first 6b but needed a couple of rests. Both proper overhanging too, especially the 6b+. Fri was a big evening for me but need to do more of that, I need to up the stamina.
Really got to work on my clipping. It's garbage and costs me so much energy.
Need to pack for hols now. Happy holidays to everyone! My first year on fit club.
Dervish in the dark, that's gotta be spooky!
Please tell me it was a pub bet which saw you there in these circumstances..
I guess the experience started when I watched my friends lead it in the dark in dinner suits two years ago. I enjoyed the moment but saved the onsight.
This week I was just itching to make the most of dry rock, and it's definitely the route of choice due to the lack of route reading required.
The quarry is spooky though, I'd never go there by myself. "shudders"
Yep, familiar with those routes. Well done on the orange 7a+, I think that's a real test for the grade. The orange 7b, I only use the mono as a foothold and match the hold below instead but my partner uses it. The crux is the last move on that one. The pink is tough at 7a.
That's the plan I want to be really fit this year. I am going to start working on weight loss again start of next year.
STG (end of 2012):
No major injuries
LTG (End of 2013):
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Top out the chief
boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Lead E3 try onsight
This Weeks Goals:
Indoor climbing - Tick
outdoors climbing - Tick
T: Depot 3hours. Comp Got my best score ever in a comp. Only one stupid drop greasing off of a hold.
S: Almscliff Very good session almost awesome!
Was soaked when I got there hid under demon wall roof.
Dried a little warmed up working some of the virgin traverse. Good progress. Need some confidence doing moves with the foot jam.
Tried flying arête got the pocket once but then foot slipped.
Tried a few things got cold.
Warmed up again and tried a 6A I have tried on and off for ages.
Got on crucifix traverse first attempt got to a new point (last hard move). Tried it again slightly further. Worked the last moves. One more attempt too tired. Next session!
Tried crucifix arête a couple of times not really feeling it. Need a sequence.
Flying arête again I hit the sloper every time. Running out of gas I hit the pocket adjusted feet hit the top. Tried to top out but I slipped. Gutted!
Next go hit the pocket again sorted feet and was going for the top but slipped I was just too tired! Next session!
Next Weeks goals:
Rainbow Slab!!! Red and yellow then see what else ..
Maybe indoor routes
Really loving almscliff at the minute but I can hear the peak calling. Projects outstanding. Routes I want to tick. Friends I want to see.
I am so keen to get on the slate. Red and yellow looks amazing so does pull my daisy ..
Goal: 7c by April 2013
Mon: routes indoors. More failed attempts at the pink 7c, then when I was tired failed at the remaining 7a+ I've not done.
Rest of week: illness.
Got struck down by some proper high-temperature, full body aches flu business. Just about feeling better now but probably won't get to climb for a few days so hopefully I've not lost all strength/stamina when I get back to it.
Merry Christmas fit club.
T: Circuits at the Edge
S: Walk 5.5 miles
S: Climbing Works
T: Foundry level 1 problems, felt weak
S: Foundry level 1 problems, better session
T: Circuits at the Edge (5+ and 6b, worked 6c)
F: Climbing Works Completed 6c circuit
S: Off road run 4 miles
STG: V4 ish boudlering e.g. Walnut Traverse at Birchen -WORKING / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks
MTG: RP 6c in Turkey Feb 5th onwards
LTG: Font 7a - want to get on some traverses at this grade at Churnet
+ 7a Sport RP
Just a random thought based on your goals - from what I've been told by those more experienced in the dark art of boulder:route grade conversion than me, a Fb7a traverse would probably be of the order of 7b-c route grade (assuming you're happy with the idea that long boulder traverses are effectively routes anyway in terms of their energy system demands). Having tried one of the ones at the Churnet you might be thinking of, Ousal Low, the moves were much harder than 7as I've been on. To be fair I spent about as much time on it as I did 7bs I ticked fast in Rodellar and still hadn't figured the moves for a lot of the end of it.
I do usually try not to comment on any disparity I think I see between other's route and boulder goals because we all have our own strengths and weaknesses and we view things through the prisms of our own experiences, but it just struck me that you have 2 "route-esque" ltgs in the Fr7a and the Fb7A traverse that are likely to demand similar things from your body but are likely to be wildly different in difficulty...
Ousal low is also v hard for the grade I believe. Certainly a tougher challenge than a french 7a.
I'd heard similar, yes. I know that the very continuous pe style of climbing that these traverses often are isn't at all my style (I find indoors a similar struggle, which is why I fancy taking a leaf from Eagle River's book in the new year and giving some hard indoor projects a go) but if someone had forced me to suggest a French grade for Ousal Low based on my few goes on it I'd definitely have been aiming right towards the top of the grade range I quoted in my post above...
STG (this winter through to March): tick at least 10 new Ft 7s, including at least one Ft 7b, before Font [so far: 3 Ft 7a]
MTG: tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font in March
LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- tick F7c in Ceuse
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013
Weekly training plan up to March involves:
- 2 wall sessions, focusing on bouldering with occasional ancap
- 3 fingerboard sessions
- 1 outside day
- 1 rest day
(minus a wall or fingerboard session when I manage two outside days)
M: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Ok session I think, strugglign to remember it now. Did one new hardish problem and repeated some stuff.
T: Bouldering at Alter Rock. Did most of the new problems, there were a few more than usual that I couldnt do though...think it was a hard set.
F: Bouldering at The Climbing Station. Did all the V1-2 circuit (about 30 problems I guess?) and then about 12-13 of the V3-5s and one of the V5-6s. Finished off with a lap each of the 6b and 6c on the circuit wall. Work do in the evening, ate and drank a lot.
S: Bouldering at the Climbing Hangar in Liverpool. Did a decent bunch of the V3-5 circuit (maybe about 15 problems) plus a range of other stuff up to a similar sort of grade. Had been to PEx Hill first but it was wet so just did a couple of easy thigns before bailing to the wall.
Decent amount done this week althoguh Ive not felt on top form, fightign a slight cold I think. Home with my parents for Christmas now and then straight off down to the in-laws for new year, so unlikely to get anything better than doorframe hangs and core exercises done for a fortnight. In some ways this may nto be a bad thiign as I'm gettign a bit stale with indoor bouldering at the moment...hopefully the psyche will be back in a fortnight.
Weight-wise I lost 2 pounds last week but probably will struggle ot lose any mroe whilst being over-fed by clucking mothers.
Have a good Christmas everyone!
Resting up has paid off; good week this week.
Best efforts outdoors this year, (and ever I surpose!):
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3, (weather didn't really allow as much of this as I would have liked.)
Winter V 6, (would have tried VI 7 but not in the right place at the right time.)
Goals by the end of the year:
Boulder V5 outside?
Winter - VI 7 if conditions allow
Weight down to well under 11.5, Body fat under 10%, (16% at present!)
Goals for next spring:
RP - 7a+
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.
T: 1hr dry tooling + core
W: 2hrs 40 bouldering at Kendal. Lots on the V4 - 6 circuit to start, finished with the V1 - 3 circuit
T: 1hr road run
F: 1hr 40 woody then foot on campus board at kendal wall + core
S: 1hr 10min fell run + core
S: 30 min dry tooling, 30 min 6b+ traverse + core
Focus is on power now, but maintaining cardio and endurance for winter climbing.
Jill has one desperate move, more like v5, and the rest is easy so not a good equivalent, I wouldnt focus on that one! I remember ousal high being more of a pumpy thing? Long time ago that I was on it though.
I did the central section of Virgin Wall traverse, and it's quite easy to use it as progression by gradually linking in moves at the start leading into the central section - I didn't have time to go right from the far right but I was definitely linking in about a half dozen or so moves into the start of that traverse which was definitely good for raising the pump factor.
Finger massively in the air but perhaps 6c or something for the central section, and then it'll go up as you link more of those fingery moves in to the start of it. I think I nearly got the link of those half dozen moves into the central section after about 2 goes. Be a good progression training towards the sport goal I'd say, get you some of the fitness you'll nees
Happy Xmas everyone. Sneaking in a quick post amongst Xmas chaos so not read the other posts yet.
M - Rest before 'performance' day. Hah that was wishful thinking. 20 min interval run
T - Climb at sector Momia
W - rest. 20 min interval run
T - Board session. 3 sets of 2 m on 5 min off. 20 min interval run
F - Climbing at El Torcalito
S - 30 min jog
S - Climbing at Desplomilandia. 30 min jog
Got my Bf down to under 13% ( 12.8% average ) so happy with that. Need to keep on with it over Xmas. Intervals seem to work. 5 min warm up 10 mins of 1 min fast 1 min jog recovery and 5 min warm down. Hurts so must be good.
Momia was a disaster. Flailing around on Anak. I was so hopeful it'd feel different this time. Looking back it was easier but that type of route ( 30m of steep Eng tech 5b/c moves ) is still feeling way beyond me. I got up it one way or another 3 times that day and was totally wasted. Real glycogen depletion and my biceps were trashed. Serious head issues too.
El Torcalito was awful. Still not totally receovered but that and Momia has totally confirmed what i need to do to improve. If training is fun it's probably not training right ? I want to get steep routes done so need to get on the steep stuff more.
Today was much better. 6c+/7a warm up which i was never going to manage but i led it instead of top rope and took a couple of good falls. That settled my head and it was much better for the rest of the day.
I took too long trying to decide what 7b i wanted to try. Top roped ( 1 rest ) a 7a+ and then tried a really bouldery one that i just didn't feel psyched for. Changed from that to one i had seen someone else on. 6c+/7a ish to a random and very hard finish move. Bolt to bolt, 1 go failed at last move, 2nd go failed setting up for last move. I felt really tired on the last go and was pleased i fought on when a couple of times i considered slumping on a bolt rather than ploughing on to a possible fall.
So still not 7b in a day but much improved from Tuesday ( different route styles but my head is much improved).
Going to try and get to El Torcalito a couple of times and nip over to Chorro as well before NYE.
Other than that i will try and watch what i eat/drink but not too strictly.
I hope everyone who is off abroad has a great time - if you're coming to Spain we are spending the day on the beach tomorrow. Yes it is that warm :0)
Enjoy the beach!
Anack is a funny one because the sort of fitness I reckon you need for it is more trad than anything else - theres the kneebar above the initial tufa, and the shakeout above the layback, so you need the aerobic fitness to recover at those, but then that last section on the crozzles requires you to be able to climb quite statically and in balance
Posted too early!
... statically and in balance when you're going to be not necessarily super pumped bit just kind of weary the same as at the top of a long pitch at Pembroke or whatever. It's just that sudden move from quite steep and positive to demanding balance and precision that makes it a tricksy one... Love to get back on it next time I'm there...
Little Brown Baby is always a good bet for a 7a+ on-sight as is Sara at Encantadas. Sara is the closest i've come to on-sighting 7a.
I wish Anak was 7c then i could have an excuse for why it felt so hard on Tuesday - it's 7b but an amazing route.
Hope to see you soon.
Used to be a problem of mine. Still gets me sometimes. Just like you watch your foot onto a hold - or you should if you're not ;0) you also need to do the same with clipping. A lot of people have the habit of doing it out of the corner of their eye or catching the draw and then looking away for the next hold thinking it's job done. That's when you fumble/drop the rope etc.
Happy hold and i hope it's good news for the New Year.
I was wearing 'shiny' trousers rolled up above my knee I it was boiling and i had no shorts with me ) in a true Englishman on the beach style. It didn't help at all with the kneebar and i couldn't get it to stick. That really made a difference.
The bad news is the finish is not to the chains we went to. It's to the left via some really hard traversing/compression/undercut moves with poor feet. So i was told anyway. It still felt 7b to the chins we went to IMO.
It'll still be there next time, waiting. It is an awesome route and would be a real benchmark for me i feel dead keen to get it done.
Honk Down must be one of the most popular routes in Chorro at the moment. The screams of failure from the crux are echoing down the valley regularly :0)
Climbing related Freudian slip that was meant to ber Happy holidays.
Where do you go left - at those chains? If it's anywhere before that presumably you end up on the crux of Honk Down? I seem to remember it easing off a fair bit between the top of the crozzles and the chains we went to, so presumably you can get a reasonable rest before heading out left?
Honk Down would be high on my list next time I'm in Chorro, although that's likely to be on the van trip now I reckon, a solid 12 or more months away, so who knows what else might be on the list by that point...
Cheers Dan. I think failing on goals is partly being a little over-optimistic, and partly laziness. More laziness than optimism though as most of the time there's no real excuse for not doing something. Eg, epically failed on biking to work this week, had only planned on 2 days anyway. I had 2/3 where I could have biked (logistically) and just didn't bother on any, a combination of crap weather, general laziness and oversleeping. Anyway...
Last week's goals:
- 3x lunch runs -tick
- Orienteering -tick
- 2x bike in -total fail. Lazy, no excuses.
- Depot - work on the one red I nearly did 2 weeks ago -tick (the session, not the problem)
- Harrogate wall - 3x 6a, 1x 6a+, try a 6b.-Didn't make Harrogate - partner unenthusiastic for ropes, did get another climbing session in though
- 2x core and FB sessions -1 1/2 done
- Find a decent FB workout plan that I can actually do! -tick
M: Lunchtime run (I think, can't really remember...). Evening Depot. Didn't spend too much time on last week's problem as new woods were up. Did quite a few, maybe 5 or so, and got close on a couple more. Tried another red towards the end, got all the moves but was too tired to link them. Really want to finish it before they're changed (2 more weeks).
T: Lunchtime run... wanted a short one so tried a new route, took a wrong turn and ended up back at work a whopping 11 minutes later. I tried...
W: Evening orieteering. Good one, first urban one I've done. Came 11th overall (2nd female), very happy.
T: Evening baildon wall. Couldn't do many of the new problems. Felt weak. Repeated last week's yellow one several times though. Quick FB/feet on campus board session after.
F: Lunchtime run.
S: Nothing. Rain all day killed any mountain plans.
S: Caught a lift to the pylons on Ilkley Moor and ran back over the moors. 2 hours - roughly 18km or so and around 130m elevation gain. Really enjoyed it. Evening fingerboard & core session. Roped my boyfriend into it too to help motivation - this worked, however weak as hell!! Used a slightly modified version of the beginner planet fear session, could only do about half of it. Really hard to motivate myself to get on it when I'm so crap but it's the only way I'm going to get stronger. On the plus side, totally beat boyfriend into submission on core session, got my own back ;-)
This week will be predictably messed up, but planning on:
2x bike to work (don't wuss out this time!)
2x runs - No orienteering for another 3 weeks :(
2x fb/core sessions
Fingers crossed scotland next weekend if the weather's ok.
Boxing day in the lakes would be a bonus, but doubt it will be worth it with the weather forecast...
Seeing as its that end-of-year time again, I've been thinking a bit more about goals for next year. I'm loving this orienteering and trail running thing and want to enter some mountain marathon type events. Anyone got any ideas of a good place to start? Shorter stuff for the spring, then maybe aiming towards an OMM type event in the autumn and/or an ultra.
Some of the mini MM's in the peak look fun, Iain I think you did one recently? Is that a good place to start for a newbie to it all? Any thoughts on other races, preferably Yorks/lakes/peaks areas. There's some 10km/half mara/full mara races in north yorks, http://262.hardmoors110.org.uk/cms/ I was thinking maybe of these? Just a little scared of getting in to a race full of hardcore trail runners and being miserably far behind, finishing ages after everyone else... would be grateful for any info on best first races/mountain marathons.
I've only done one race before, a road half marathon, which was fine but it was a big field of runners with a 5&10km going on at the same time so not too intimidating at all.
Merry christmas everyone! Not in the spirit of FC but eat lots of mince pies and turkey :)
Once you get onto the proper slab. You can almost reach the chains we went to. The 'proper' chains follow a leftwards ramp at about 10 o clock if that makes sense. They must be for Anak as they are above the chains for Honk Down and there are no other routes. The other chains are used by the next route over.
Yes you can get a rest but it they are pretty hard moves when you are fatigued. Insecure feet on poor undercuts is not what i need at that point.
Ace Ventura, Lourdes, Mar de Ortigas etc i hope ;0)
Latter two I'd be keen on a look at (mal is at desplo right - pockets...?), but isn't ace Ventura filthy thin crimps?
Thanks for doing the thread Dan. Quick post, not done much this week.
Mon - Castle. Laps.
Tues - Rest, broken.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Biscuit Factory. 3x pink and green (V5-7), easy end of the circuit but pleased all the same.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Rest.
Sun - Rest.
Happy Christmas everybody!
Little brown baby I tried to onsight last year, got the hand sequence wrong and failed to down climb & reclimb without weighting the rope - went 2nd go.
Sara I'll keep in mind, not been on that one.
Anak sounds tough...
Thanks Dan, morning everyone.
STG: 7b at a wall, V6 at BoulderUK, get on hard stuff at the wall.
MTG: 7b in Spain
LTG: more E1s, look at E2
Mon: BoulderUK, ticked two V5s and had a go at a V6.
Tues: 8 mile night trail run with the Bowland runners
Wed: BM beginner training
Thurs: Kendal wall. RPed a 7a I had a go at last week and flashed a 6c+
Fri: 10.2 mile fell run, 995m ascent to Haweswater via Kentmere Pike
Sat am: boulderUK, ticked one more V5. No progress on the V6 but I didn't really try.
Sat pm: BM beginner training.
Missed two runs through laziness, not good. And not really putting the "must try harder at the wall" goal into practice. Lazy. Must try harder!
Merry crimbo one and all!
I reckon Sara is hard to O/S.
And what's wrong with filthy thin crimps?! ;-)
I must have been having a good day. I failed one move away from a good rest before easier climbing. Gutted.
In reply to AJM
Just look at it as being crimptastic !
> Anak sounds tough...
Just very fitness specific. I watched a French hottie float her way up it the other day like it was a warm up. In fact it was her warm up as she crushed honkdown straight after. Awesome.
Thanks Dan. 300 eh? Looking at my posts, I started around 180ish, but I think it was earlier, as UKC seem to delete older posts.
Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (lost a few lbs)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (no climbing this week :( )
STG - Climb 6b @ wall, v3 @ wall, 12st 2lbs
MTG - Climb 6b @ wall, v4 @ wall, 12st
LTG - Lead E1, 11st 12lbs
VLTG - Lead E2, maintain weight - 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - Dread to think
M - 100 situps
T - 20 mins swimming
W - 100 situps
T - 30 mins on gym bike
F - situps and squats
S - situps, pushups and planks
S - situps, pushups and planks
Yeah it's been hard to get on with doing stuff this week. Been running today, will try and keep it going. Should be ok. Happy Christmas everyone.
Given my choice of 8a project, that's probably a very fair question!
If tufa remains as obstinately hard to climb as it did this afternoon I may have to focus on crimps instead! ;) If that happens, I might add it to my list...!
M - leading ww. 6b+ clean lead. Tr 2x7a one of which was pretty easy and one tough. Tr one 7a+ / 7b which was nails.
Thurs - bouldering in stowmarket near parents house. Did a bunch of v2-v3 ish problems. Did a bit of finger boarding.
Other than that just working on the epic eating. Malta on the 27th for a week. Hopefully get another 7a to finish the year / start the next one.
Happy Xmas and new year all.
Have a super trip to Turkey - hope you both get lots ticked!
If you're looking more pure orienteering, the Twin Peak event in the lakes (usually end of May I think??) is always good, and you get some technical areas - its a two day event.
Last week I spent rather a lot of time making chocolates (for Christmas pressies) which scuppered exercise plans, but have been well received so far! And it was very much chocolate making rather than chocolate eating - I've been quite good on that front so far.
M - nothing (went to a friend's concert at the Albert Hall and sang carols)
T - nothing (met up with another friend)
W - climbing, biscuit factory. Got stuck at work a bit later than planned and was generally feeling pretty knackered and lacking in energy/willpower! Managed a few of the green and pinks (v5-7 but the lower end!) which was pleased with and ticked a couple of other problems I hadn't done but other than that not a particularly long or fruitful session. Just one of those days!
T - nothing (chocolate making)
F - ran into work - 5.5 miles. Really didn't feel like it but figured I needed to make the effort! Morning running always feels hard but this did feel rather brutal - still, I did it so that's the main thing!
S - nothing (other than a brisk 45min walk to get some fresh air)
S - 30min run before breakfast - very hard work as probably hadn't eaten enough the night before. Then had 3 1/2hrs or so of gentle walking and chatting with friends round Delamere Forest.
On a good note, after rather pigging out on Friday I seem to have managed to lose most of my belly over the past couple of days. And hopefully the traditional family xmas day run will mean I don't feel too guilty about indulging tomorrow!
Happy Christmas all, and hope everyone who's going away has awesome trips - look forward to hearing the reports when you all get back :o)
F-Run, ouch, something in calf very painful, had to walk back.
Not a bad week, struggling to apply myself a bit, should just start rather than wonde whenther I can fir it in. Calf very painful but been rolling it and just been bouldering this afternoon.
Enjoyed both sessions at the wall, definaely feeling stronger though friend pointed out my core needs work, saggy. Need to make sure I focus on movement as well as strength, struggled to translate any gains to actually ticking problems-actually have now done five more blacks (F6a-6b+) including one that I thought I would never get.
Off on travels finishing at cottage in the peak on friday where i wil be for a week-may well post asking for someone to show me round burbage or somewhere similar.
Many thanks for all your support and best wishes for the festive season to everyone.
Was that move a really blind move quite high up? Cause that's the bit I'd say make it to O/S.
Yeah that's the one. I basically bottled it, rested, then made the move which turned out to be not hard at all :0(
M: 4m run, then press-ups, dumbell curls, core stuff, stretching.
T: First time at the Biscuit Factory. Did some red and green problems , all sort of V2 - V3ish, but pulled a muscle in my shoulder doing the long blue roof problem.
W: 2.4m run before breakfast. Then dumbell curls, squats and an hour stretching. Physio in the evening for my poorly shoulders.
T: 2.3m run before breakfast, which was hard work. An hour stretching, lots of work in back and shoulders.
S: About 1.5hrs bouldering, got the crux move on a white problem(V3 - V5).
Not a bad week really, it's been great to finally get something done on my shoulders, which are very tight and with an impingement :( Got some good early morning runs in and plenty of stretching, which I'm really enjoying.
Off to peel some potatoes. Have a great Xmas folks!
Bit of an unintended taper this week; should have been 6 sessions but came up well short when travel plans were brought forward missing both fri and sat sessions. On the plus side, the elbows have responded very well to two gym sessions concentrating on eccentric exercises.
LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham
MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT
STG (end Dec 2012)
- Stick to the plan...
- Get back in the groove quickly enough to make the most of Turkish trip at New Year - Freedom is a Battle 8a+ in Antalya. Seen a video with kneebar inverted rest. More static core exercises needed!
- Avoid Christmas gluttony to make previous a reality
S - Great session in Parisella's despite the ming. Concentrated on Hatch start at back of cave. Did great link from start to dropping slap to jug. Also did Cave Life from jug to kneebar, so 2 halves of an 8A - would be my first at the grade :-)
M - Gym - good core beasting (with ankle weights) and elbow/ankle physio
T - Rest
W - Stockport routes; OS attempts at 7c and 7b (7c is easier!) and then proper 4x4 with Chris - upto 7a+.
T - Gym - good core beasting (with ankle weights) and elbow/ankle physio.
F - Rest/packing
S - Drive to Bedford, then Twickenham, then Sussex...
Turkey on thurs; fingers crossed it stays dry for duration.
Happy Christmas Everyone!
Good day for me so far, getting myself out of bed for some Repeaters interspersed with squat jumps to get my metabolism going before Christmas Dinner!
Thanks dan you too
Push ups pull ups and core for me
Does un wrapping presents and drinking bucks fizz count as exercise ?
The cork was quite hard to get out of the cava but that is as far as i intend to take the exercise today.
Happy Christmas everyone.
40min run in the forest for me - dragged round by the old man :o)
Happy Christmas fit club. No exercise today, but will be out running tomorrow.
Cheers Daniel. Hope you had a great Xmas.
Post-10km run, I took a couple of days off from running as my ankle was pretty sore, so mixed in a bit more gym than I have been doing lately.
M: gym - deadlifts and benchpress. Cycled 7 miles.
T: Climbing @ The Castle - neither of us could be bothered to bring a rope so we just had a messing about top-rope session that was a lot of fun. So much so that a friend came to say hello having heard me laughing from the bouldering wall! Cycled 15 miles.
W: Run - 3.7 miles in 30:20. Cycled 7 miles.
Th: Rest day. And by rest day I mean, I had a hangover following our work Xmas party. Been quite a while since I danced like THAT.
F: Gym - squat and benchpress. Cycled 3 miles.
Sa: Flew to Spain, staying at my mum's near Alicante for Xmas. Ran 2.8 miles in 26:48 - very very hilly!
Su: Climbing @ Pego - lead (1x4), (2x5), (2x5+), all onsight, feeling great and crucially, having fun. Had to climb one of the 5+s twice to retrieve gear after my partner cried off mumbling something about too much bouldering being bad for stamina :)
This week - get as many mornings climbing in as possible (ie, as much as I can get away with before the family start to get annoyed), and make the most of the hills for some hard fast runs. Due to go to Aviemore for New Year, so am watching the weather forecast with baited breath...
Definitely thinking about getting down to some of those 3 hr ones in the peak. One or two climbing weekends to sort out then I'll just commit and enter them.
Will look at either the Saunders or the Rab MM - also supposed to be good and is later in the year (sept).
I think the lack of the LAMM this year should just mean an entry into an alternative one, no excuses! ;-)
Thanks for the time and encouragement as ever Dan, hope you had a good chrimbo :)
T- routes at hgt. No leading mojo whatsoever so switched to top-roping feature-y things I havn't done before (6a-6b+ish) with about a 50:50 success rate. Enjoyed a change, some nice routes inc a layback arete and a bouldery corner where I appreciated being able to go for big bouldery moves with the security of a rope for once.
W - nowt
T - 1 hour cycle round town with sprints. I don't usually count pottering about town walking or cycling in fit club, but this felt a right killer in the rain with christmas shoppers trying to run me over so definitely a workout
last week (bouldering consisted of indoors at lancaster uni, v4 to v6)
m- cardio and bouldering
t- cardio , weights, core
w -cardio, core, bouldering
t- cardio, weights, bouldering
f-cardio and core
s-hill run and bouldering
s-mountain biking )lot of uphill)and bouldering
this week so far: bouldering.. same as last week but noticeably tired due to need for a day off exercise.. which i've had today
m-mountain biking (local training route with lots of climbing)bouldering
t-hill run (make room for crimbo dinner)
w-local mtb route... more chilled out pace but still a good workout
t cardio in gym, core and bouldering.. weak as as p***
f- settee with box of quality street
s- plan is to hill run or mtb and then boulder... hoping to feel stronger
s-same as saturday
next week.. usual routine but would like to get out on rock ... also off work so will get to sleep and rest loads more than usual between workouts and sessions at the wall
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