/ UKC Fit Club 303

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grubes - on 06 Jan 2013
Welcome all I will be doing this for the next month of so.

So 2013 has started with a dry day (if any of you were awake ;) ) and a dry saturday

From twitter, last weeks post and log book stalking well done to:
Ally Smith with an amazing start to the week
JimmyKay for having an amazing trip
Kev pushing his grade

This week is a good opportunity to reconsider your goals for the new year.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (300) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=532562&v=1#x7155489
DeaconDeacon - Its Christmas so a slack week is okay, but hope you got back on it with the improving weather.
Daniel Heath - wow looks like a power week. Any gains this week? Have you tried taking weight off to try 1 armer
Ali - Excellent week for the Christmas break. Good luck with your goals this year. 3½ weeks in New Zealand not going to stick you boots in and sneak off to castle hill one day?
AllyBee - Welcome. Nice set of goals. Also sounds like a good trip.
Grubes - Punter should of manned up and ticked flying arête
Sankey - good luck with your shuffling goals.
NMN - Hope your feeling better
Mattrm - Good luck in the new year. I am not sure if you have a smart phone but I have found a useful app called my fitness pal for helping with the diet
Biscuit - Free bars are a killer. Hoping to hear tales of sendage from your meet up with kevster
Joughton - Any goals for the year?
Maria85 - Don't worry about writing too much ;). nice week goals sounds busy. Any long term goals to work towards?
Nomics4sale - Hope your training for march. I am a little bit psyched. I think Nik might be excited too but he keeps saying the weeks not about what he wants to do. Any aims for morocco? Anyway a goal for you this week. Climb till you fall don't say take.
Seankenny - Good amount of session for a Christmas week
AJM - Sounds like an excellent year. Think I remember you saying you were looking for partners in London. Well Fallingdown (previously derbyshireben on here) has posted on the other channel looking for wall partners. could be worth a shout.
Exile - Nice set of goals good luck with them
Oddtoast - Oooo shinies .. what cams? Well done on the 6a circuit
Mr chewy - Nice grade IV so early in the year.
Ian Bell - Good luck you pyramid
DoctorU - Welcome good luck with your goals
Kevster - Beast!!
Jimmykay - Beast!! but you now need to try some harder stuff.
Richard Popp - nice way to end the year good luck in the new year.
Daniel Heath - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks for taking this on Grubes.

My two weeks training at home were amazing. It's hard to judge improvement in pull up strength, but I'm sure it's good for me to tackle the beast again having not done any for about 6 months.

I've stopped chasing the one armer, and I'm now looking for more specific strength (where both hands are facing away). Hoping for better offset pull up strength.

M-8 x 260m sprints, great sesh
--Offset pull ups, close arm press ups, slow wide pull ups

T-Repeaters, upped the intensity again, failed at the end of 8th set - perfect.
--3 x 8 one arm press ups each hand

W-CRASH. Jogged over to HIIT spot, immediately knew I wasn't up for it.
Combination of not eating enough and being ill.
Tried pull ups - same result.

Chinese meal. (Cheat meal) Ate too much, then felt utterly terrible. Went for a slightly Bulemic 8 mile run in anger of my gluttony.

T-TCS bouldering, still weak but good to do something
F-Rest
S-8 x 120m hill sprints (not a killer but great way to start the day)
Climbing, got my energy back! Very happy to know that I can function at this weight.
S-Negative one armers, diamond press ups, slow wide Frenchies in an attempt not to lose any muscle as I lose weight.

So I'm on a high now because my food plan is working :D

This morning I was 63kg for the first time in a couple of years. 11% bodyfat. I also have a lot of energy for climbing.

My immediate goals are:
Maintain 10stone
Eat lots of protein
Do lots of low reps strength so I don't lose any muscle!

Thanks
Dan
Si dH - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:
Thanks for picking this up for the next few weeks Grubes, I know its a time commitment; we all appreciate it.

STG (this winter through to March): tick at least 10 new Ft 7s, including at least one Ft 7b, before Font [so far: 3 Ft 7a, 1 Ft 7a+]

MTG: tick at least 5 Ft 7as in Font in March

LTG (March-Dec 2013):
- tick F7c in Ceuse (may have to cancel trip though, so uncertain)
- aim to onsight 10 E3s and 1 E4 in 2013. I've also updated my wishlist to reflect some of the routes I want to do if I get the opportunity.

Weekly training plan up to March involves:
- 2 wall sessions, focusing on bouldering with occasional ancap
- 3 fingerboard sessions
- 1 outside day
- 1 rest day
(minus a wall or fingerboard session when I manage two outside days)

This week:

M-W: nothing - still on xmas / new year hols with in-laws.
T: Fingerboard session. Mostly repeaters. Didnt push it too much as it was the first time I'd pulled on anything at all since the previous Sunday (ie 11 days ago). Felt good afterwards though.
F: Rest
S: Bouldering at Curbar again. Got back on Ultimate Gritstone Experience, Art of Japan (both 6c), Downhill Gardener and Cloud Cuckoo Land (both 7a+). Fell off the top of UGE 4 times and decided to sack it as I was on my own at that point and the top was quite green. It's also a tough all-body workout to get that far! Ticked Art of Japan and Downhill Gardener, got close to Cloud Cuckoo Land but didnt quite hang the crux the sloper - several attempts resulted in that agonising pause on the hold before I came off and I had the star wired so it will go at some point. Nasty sharp crimp on it though. Pleased with Downhill Gardener as its the first (I think) problem I've done that gets 7a+ in both the latest bouldering and definitive guides - although I think it is soft. Also repeated a 6c I'd done recently called Last Light. I need to go somewhere else other than Curbar now! :)
S: Probably a rest day today - was going to go for a walk in the peak but my wife is ill so it'll probably be a lazy one at home/around town with some core and press-ups thrown in. Tips not up to any finger training.

Good to get back in to it at the end of the week, and had a good day yesterday - would have liked to tick Cuckoo and UGE, but overall felt just as strong as when I went in December so haven't lost anything much over xmas.

Si
JimmyKay - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Got any ft7a's in mind?
Si dH - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
Not specifically in Font - it'll be my first proper trip whereas everyone else has been a few times so I'll just go with the flow. I would like to do Attention Chef d'Oeuvre as I tried that on my one previous day there.
JimmyKay - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Great boulder! Bit thin and narrow in the middle, but a classy - and high - top out. Buthiers is awesome. What about Le Coeur at Elephant?
Joughton on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes: Cheers for taking Fit Club Grubes

Decent week for me, but the next two weeks are bound to be dreadful because somehow it's exam time again!

Mon - Session at Stockport (again!). Spent the day falling off hard stuff but in my mind the only way to improve is to push until you fall off:) Did all the routes on the really steep wall as well because it's the one I'm weakest on, though I can feel an improvement from last week.
Tue - rest
Wed - rest
Thurs - session on home board, warmed up then did lots of crimpy problems on the 15deg board, and did laps on a circuit I set for power-endurance. Had a break then set a really dynamic problem on the 45deg board, took me another hour working on it to get it but when I did it felt fine, all about my body positions... felt about V7.
Fri - MCC routes session, though still a bit tired from yesterday. Warmed up then onsighted: 6c+, 7a+ (hard), 7b+. Rested then tried the 8a, did the bottom section clean up to the halfway lip, then failed on the crux move. Had a few goes on it but just couldn't get it, so I frigged past the move then got the top half clean too. Just need to get the crux then I think it's a goer!
Sat - rest
Sun - rest

Yeah I was thinking about goals for 2013, although I still have some uncompleted goals from last year, which were redpoint an 8a and do some more V7/7A+s outside. So my goals look like this...

STG:
- Get that 8a at MCC, just need to get a little more boulder-strong for the crux and it's in the bag.
- Get out bouldering whilst it's still chilly, do some more V7s, possibly a V8 (got one in mind at Apparent North)
Continue to get stronger fingers!

MTG -
Onsight another 7c in Spain (The Prayer to the Raven and the Crow, or something at Forada)
Redpoint a 7c+ in Spain (not got one in mind - any reccomendations for something in Costa Blanca?)
Do a big trad route in Spain (Notario is an 8-pitch 7a/E5 6a)
Onsight a 7c+ in France at Easter

LTG -
At some point in the year, onsight E6 (Reproduction/Bastille at High Tor, and loads of stuff at Pembroke where I always do well)
Later in the year, headpoint an E7 (thinking Masters of the Universe at Burbage South, ab rope for pro, safe fall out zone)
Get an 8a, don't care where or when! Looking most likely are the long routes at the Tor (the Prow in a oner, or the Body Machine extension) or something at the Cheedale Cornice.

Won't bother with VLTG because I always end up either massively over or underestimating how strong I'll be in a years time!

Cheers, Jake
JimmyKay - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to Si dH:

http://www.vimeo.com/40749003

Check out Ben's 2 week video for Psyche. Couldn't believe how many problems he ticked off. I'd keep texting him in the evening to get another unbelievable list of bloc's ticked at the end of most days.
mattrm - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes. Appreciate you doing fit club.

Continuous - Shoulder / knee rehab / ankle strengthening
1 - Lose 1/2 stone (put on 1/2 stone)
2 - Improve finger strength (no progress)
3 - Improve footwork (went climbing)
STG - Climb 6b @ wall, 12st 10lbs
MTG - Climb 6c @ wall, 12st 8lbs
LTG - Climb 7a & E1, 12st 6lbs
VLTG - Climb 8a & E5, maintain weight - 11st
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st

Weight - 12st 12lbs (lost 2 lbs)

M - 60 situps, planks and pushups
T - 3k run
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Insanity fit test
S - Sport climbing (Fr 3, Fr 5 & HS 4a)
S - Rest (actually needed for once)

I. ACTUALLY. WENT. CLIMBING. OUTSIDE. YESTERDAY. Sorry for the caps and poor punctuation. But I'm pretty chuffed. Apart from falling off a 4+. Also the HS 4a was a second of a first ascent. Which was pretty cool. Started the insanity workout thing. Did the fit test on Friday which was quite knackering. Still feeling that and yesterdays climbing, so todays rest day is actually needed for once. Planning on going out next weekend as well.
Si dH - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
Cheers Jim, that's a cool video. L'Angle Ben's and that big 6c looked particularly cool. Mostly though it just re-enforced in my mind that there is so much awesome stuff there that'll I'll have a great time whatever area we go to, so I'm just going to wait until we get there and pick a new awesome problem each day! :))
biscuit - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to mattrm:

My brother sent me the insanity 20 minute fast and furious workout. Watched it once and thought what a load of soft arse gym bunnies prancing about shouting inane motivational claptrap. Did it the next day, aiming to do it every day, and haven't been back to it yet. Had massive DOMS for 3 days, could hardly walk and blew any climbing training of note out of the window totally. It's fairly hardcore.

I guess the full hour workout isn't as intense - or i hope not for your sake ;0)
AJM - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers for picking up the baton Grubes. Going to be near but not in London in May/June so not partner short right now, but I'll bear it in mind for future, cheers.

As promised, essay will come tomorrow once I've had my final chance to "go hard or go home" and fluff out the account with some inspiring last day crushage. But I've been thinking a lot about this years goals, so I thought I'd post them up in their current quasi-draft state for public viewing/critique. Basically my plan is to do some fairly standard periodisation through until my south of France trip in May. Then, aside from trips (Kaly?), my main plan is to focus on strength in order to leave me going on the 2014 road trip with as much boulder strength in the tank as possible since it will inevitably fade, and to do some trad because I want to. So:

Indoor/training priorities
  • Redpoint something hard indoors, and do aerocap laps at the end of each roped session to boost base fitness
  • Push bouldering as hard as possible. Do some campus boarding too - 1-3-5 on small rungs and 1-4-6 on medium at TCA
  • Try and do some vaguely systematic ancap work at Gloucester Wall
  • Proper slopy pocket hang on a wall Beastmaker; maybe mono hang too?
  • Rolling average weight/body fat - ?

<STG> - pre Ceuse/S France trip in May
  • Until roughly my birthday, focus on hard moves. Either boulder problems (a non-p/e Fb7 in a route-relevant style - maybe Churnet/peak lime/Dartmoor/Snowdonia?) or bouldery routes (Global Solutions, maybe Black Snake Moan if it dries up, other short and punchy local contenders, maybe something on Portland?).
  • Spend bulk of March/April working on power endurance redpoints (maybe incl bouldering Ames Low at p/e 7A+) plus onsighting (Portland maybe?) to get head in gear for trip
  • Maybe get some pumpy E2/3 trad in if opportunity presents? 

<MTG> - 2013
  • Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7b+, 3/4 x 7c, 1/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
  • Right Hand Man
  • 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route)
  • Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s?
  • Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips (see priority below for reasoning) - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
  • Get in best shape possible for 2014 road trip - mainly this means going out as strong as possible since strength will inevitably fade over the trip

<LTG>
  • Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
  • E4 onsight
  • 8a before 30
  • 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)

<BHAG>
  • Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  • E5 onsights
  • 8a/+ redpoints
  • 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  • Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
JimmyKay - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Get on L'homme L'envers next to Bartabas! Trust me it's much better. That Stalactite is Crazy!!!
IainRUK - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

Missed last week.. currently unemployed as my contract ran out, waiting on a few job options so spent a week away in the highlands running..

m: a: 4 mile run pm: 4 mile road run at 6:30 pace
t: 3 mile run on trails
w: 5 mile run lattrig
t: 22 mile trail run to glas allt shiel bothy
f: 20 mile trail run back from bothy
s: am: 3 mile warm up, fell race, came 2nd,
s: 16 mile trail run from glenmore lodge
biscuit - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers for taking over Grubes. If you ever need a week or 2 doing just let me know.

I never got chance to meet Kevster. 3 days of short notice work and then a family illness scare ( that turned out to be fine in the end ) meant i missed him totally. Next time !

M - Can't remember. Probably nothing.
T - 16.3% 66.5kg. After cancelling on Kev ( sorry again ) i managed a 30 min run in the evening
W - 16.1% 66.5kg. interval runs and 'Insanity Fast and Furious' workout. PAIN !
T - 15.6% ( impressive result of the above ) 67kg. 30 min very slow run and a bit of time hitting a ball with a tennis racquet and calling it tennis.
F - 16.4% 66.6kg. 30 min slow run - still really sore
S - 16.1% 65.5kg. interval runs. Board - 4x 2m30s on. 5m rest. Failed on all of them about 15 secs before end.
S - 15.2% 65kg. Interval runs. Board 4x 2m 15s on 5m off. All completed.

So so week. Got my Mum here until next week so not going to be able to get out. That's why i have the board so i need to get on with that.

Average fat was 15.95% so 16 really. Not good. Need that down to 15% average by next week.

Been thinking about goals - and being realistic.

Yes i reckon i can climb a 7c that suits me quickly. However it would need more than a visit or 2 and unless that coincides with a partner willing to go back to the same place a few times i'm not sure it'll happen. Everyone i know out here likes to travel around and go to new/different places and do a lot of routes in a day. No bad thing.

My choice of Cenizo was also a bad one as it's a Summer venue and everyone buggered off in the Summer to escape the heat and no one wants to go there now.

So i'm going to concentrate on on-sighting and 'in a day 'targets. I reckon once i've got my in a day at 7b going well 8a on-sight will come.

I need to get down to El Torcalito 2ce a week to get better at the steep stuff.

I need to get less fat.

I need to get stronger.

STG

1) Next week i am going to Tafraoute for a week's tradding with a well psyched bunch so i am hoping for an E3 on-sight by the end of the week. It's been 18mths since i've tradded so it could be interesting.

2) Until end of Feb

Torcalito 2ce a week working steep PE problems
Boulder 1ce a week to get strength back up. I've not bouldered for nearly a year.
Body fat 12%

3) Until end of March

Torcalito and bouldering 1ce a week each
Get Annak Sunnamun
Body fat 11%

MTG until end of May

In a day targets

7b's - 8. Bias towards long/steep stuff as i've done a couple of short bouldery ones.
7b+'s - 2
On-sight 7a

LTG

Over Summer bump up strength significantly with visits to El Torcalito and Rosario bouldering and see what happens.
Sankey - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes: Cheers for taking the reins again. Been a good week, 4 climbing sessions and run, made some progress on the stamina shuffling front too. Notice if I have 2 days back to back I do less on the second day, so maybe should aim for alterate days on as much as possible...

M: Works - at least 60 easy problems, Green and Pink Spotty Circuit + Red circuit
T: Pleasely Vale - worked pumpy traverse in both directions clean in one direction, nearly in the other
W:
T:
F: Run 4.6 miles
S: Pleasely Vale - 6 laps of traverse, 3 in both directions and 2 continiously without stepping off
S: After a epic drive south towards Churnet, then bottling it in thick mist and gop, finding the Eastern Edges were also wet/in mist I ended up back at the climbing works after 2 hours in the car! Did 90 % of purple and pink spots circuit


STG: V4 ish boudlering e.g. Walnut Traverse at Birchen -WORKING / Crucifix traverse at Almscliff
2 problems I couldn't quite do last winter, so good benchmarks

MTG: RP 6c in Turkey Feb 5th onwards / French 7a boulder traverse equivalent at churnet

LTG: 7a Sport RP
AJM - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to biscuit:

> I reckon once i've got my in a day at 7b going well 8a on-sight will come.

Erm...

Not that it's likely to help your immediate issues with getting on stuff for multiple days, but when we are down in your neck of the woods on the road trip I'll be happy to get stuck into a few multi day things...
grubes - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

STG (end of 2012):
No major injuries - Tick!!
STG (Mar 2013):
Possible short half term font trip
More than 1 7 in spain maybe a grade push
Take lead falls (not fall practise).
MTG (July 2013)
Climb harder than 7a in UK and abroad.
Lead E3 try onsight
LTG (End of 2013):
Top out the chief
boulder 7A/V6 UK and try get one in Squamish.
Climb Great wall at squamish
7b
E3/4
Weight loss!

Current weight tbc (scales not working)

This Weeks Goals:
Climb as much as possible. - Tick
Routes - Tick
keep up with diet Tick

M: Climbed at Rokt. LEad some routes then bouldered a bit plus syste board work
T: Rest.
W: Back to Work. Rokt 3 hours.
Pottered about bouldering to get warm.
Lead 6b with one rest.
Worked a pink 7a on lead
Worked wood 7a on top rope
Dogged a 6b+ on lead
Bouldered a bit
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: RHS. Warmed up on a 4+ slab nails.
Worked
Worked a 6C mantel never close
Onsighted a 6A.
Then Moved on to cratcliffe.
Tried razors roof (6C) did all but one move.
Flashed the 6A on the right
Flashed a 5 on the right of it.
Tried the sit start (6A+) go no where
Tried Egg Arete worls hardest 6A got no where. Did a 4+ on the left.
Looked at jerrys traverse tried the 5+ up the middle top out wet.
Did some other easy stuff and tried some 6B and harder stuff/
Great day at a new venue lots of easy ticks
S: Tried to get a belay with no look. Went to depot.
Depot 3 hours. Repeated loads of stuff in the V3-6 range. couple of new ticks.

Next Weeks goals:
Route

Potentially off to font for a few days at half term waiting to hear back from a friend. Little bit excited.
Got some strength gains from all my bouldering but I need the route fitness now to make it useful.
grubes - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to Si dH:
Nice day out I really want to get back to Curbar been ages. UGE and Art are high on my must do list
deacondeacon - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Respect for taking the fit club on grubes :-)


STG-back up to Font 7A's on grit (by end of january) (DONE)

MTG-few routes on my wishlist, long johns slab, archangel, the rasp. (by end of april)

LTG- consolidate E4, at least 10 (by the end of 2013)

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mon-Nothing (Drove home from Cornwall)

Tue-Nothing

Wed-12.9 mile bike ride in 1:01:39

Thu-12.9 mile bike ride in 58:37

Fri-Stanage soloing up to VS
foundry session onsights up to f6c

Sat-Stanage soloing up to VS

Sun-12.9 mile bike ride in 57:29
Birchen leading up to VS

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Another terrible week where nothing is working in my favour, went for my first bike ride and returned to find two burglars in my house :-( then the indoor session we didn't have a rope with us. Soloing was good fun but kept the grades low as the rock wasn't properly dry.
Definitely going to get back into leading E's this week though.

The cycling is completely new to me hence the short distances and slow times but I'm really enjoying it and am seeing progress on every ride. Strava is seriously addictive though!

It's great to be getting out and about to the crag though and doing some exercise after the christmas lull.
ads.ukclimbing.com
annak on 06 Jan 2013
Hi grubes, thanks for picking this up.
Double post from me as I've been out and about load over the Xmas break.

M (24th): Costa Blanca: climbing in Pego, 1x5, 2x5+.

Tu: Hill run 2.8 miles/26 mins

W: climbing in Pego, 3x5, 2x5+, 1x6a although it took me an age to work out the overhanging crux, but was super chuffed when I finally got it.

Th: Hill run 3.2 miles/27 mins

F: run 5.2 miles/44:23. Right ankle/knee/hip playing up.

Sa: rest day. Train to Aviemore.

Su: climbing in Sneachda - Aladdin's mirror I, my first Scottish winter climb. Immense fun, although weather was atrocious.

M (31): 2hr hike, raining too hard to do anything else

T: 1xI climb and 1xII climb. My first winter lead! I think I love this as much as I love trad...

W: 4hr hike around Fiacaill ridge, high winds made this pretty strenuous.

Th: rest day. Back to London

F: run 3.7 miles/ 30:45

Sa: cycle 10 miles

Su: bouldering at Mile End. Not sure whether it's cos I'm feeling fresh or motivated after my Xmas jollies but this was great, and I saw off the three V2 projects that I'd been failing on last month. Need to pick some new projects now!

What with it being the start of the year and all I feel like I ought to be doing a goal-assessment.

2013 aims
- trad climb as much as possible throughout the year. Start leading VS.
- get to Scotland at least twice more during winter. Get happy at II/III.
- get to the Alps in the summer and get onto the ADs.

- push fitness level: sign up for at least one 10km run and one 30mile+ cycle and train appropriately.
- climbing weak points to focus on: fear of falling; stamina especially on overhangs; route reading.
- don't forget to HAVE FUN!
Ally Smith on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:
Cheers; Turkey was a very rewarding trip as the climbing really suited my current bouldering strength/lack of fitness as the route style tended to be short hard sections split by good rests.

LTG (End 2013) - Unjustified at Malham

MTG (Spring 2013) - Melanchollie at LPT & Terredets at Easter (maybe try Fish Eye at Oliana?)

STG (end Dec 2012) - quick look back
- Stick to the plan - 90% of sessions in the plan completed
- Get back in the groove quickly enough to make the most of Turkish trip at New Year - Freedom is a Battle 8a+ in Antalya - got on it once and found a dodgy maillon on one of the fixed draws, got on Ikarus (also 8a+) and did that instead :-)
- Avoid Christmas gluttony to make previous a reality - ate lots and sat on my arse a lot. Even after a couple of days with the trots in Turkey, still 2kg heavier than start of Dec.

Xmas week - one wall session trying some 7b/c on-sights and one pull up session on parents door lintel.

Turkey - good tally of routes despite weather. Very hard to get good conditions on upper cliffs as they're too hot in sun and not 100% sheltered in rain. Great mix of climbing and partying. Sadly mixed in with some turkish trots.

8a+ rp (2 sessions)
8a rp (close to flash, completed next morning)
2x 7c+. Leon rp (thin and techy, quite UK style) Junimond OS on last day - super chuffed with this.
2x 7c OS
2x 7b+ OS Great routes and didn't feel too pumpy/desperate and feel this is a big progress in itself
7b+ rp (inner smile) low point of the trip - really thought i'd blown the remaining 2 days of the trip with the pump that set in and blood that was coursing from my cuticles.
Daniel Heath - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Cool vid thanks for posting
Exile - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks Dan for all your time with this and thanks Grubes for taking it on.

Goals:

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Spring:
Boulder V7
RP - 7a+ / 7b
HP - E6
Winter - VI 7

Summer
Onsight more E3s leading to an E4 onsight.

This week:

M: 1hr road run
T: 30 min dry tooling, 30 min continual traversing on 6b+ish traverse
W: 2hrs climbing wall for power
T: Rest
F: 1hr 30min climbing wall bouldering for power, 20 min core
S: 1hr fell run
S: 2hrs climbing wall bouldering for power, 20 min core
Daniel Heath - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Great week, I can't do that much intervals without burning out!
Ali - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes: Thanks grubes :o) I currently have half a day at Castle Hill in my NZ plan and boots in the bag...though if I can't find a sack to fit (see extensive other thread!) the boots may have to be left behind :o(

Mixed week this week:

M - short session at Biscuit Factory. Got a couple of problems done and a bit on the circuit board, but didn't really have long enough for a proper session as had to get home to cook for people coming round. Better than nothing though!
T - nothing - felt knackered and a wee bit worse for wear...
W - nothing - worked late
T - ran into work - about 5.5 miles, 46 and a bit minutes. Probably beat my usual time by 3 mins or so, fueled by pasta the night before and a good night's sleep!
F - Biscuit Factory. Didn't think I had a great session, but on reflection did actually get quite a lot done inc. 5 whites (v4-6 - prob lower end) and a few of the steep, easier comp problems. Finished with core. Felt beasted.
S - Still feeling achey from Friday's bouldering but I had decided to do a long run so made myself do it. Ended up doing 8.8miles, in 78mins. It was very hard work.
S - Feeling very achey. Went to the Reach and did maybe 8-10 routes up to 6b+ and some boudering. Annoyed myself my wimping out of a big move above the bolt which I should have gone for. I think I have belayer trust issues (for no rational reason!)... As punishment made myself do a few bits on the circuit board and some core. Feel totally wasted - day off tomorrow!

Incidentally, do any of the runners out there know which website is best for mapping out runs? I'm not fussed about logging or anything, just want something I can roughly measure route distance on (inc off road). Been trying mapmyrun and it has caused me to bang my computer with frustration several times which is not good for my computer!
grubes - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to Ali:
Pretty sure there are apps for smart phones that map it for you by gps. Can't remember the name though sorry
grubes - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:
Quick look on my iPod strava run gets 5 stars from 55 votes and it's free.
No personal experience though
NMN - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to Ali:
> Incidentally, do any of the runners out there know which website is best for mapping out runs? I'm not fussed about logging or anything

Before I got my garmin watch and started using garmin connect I used to use gmap-pedometer and found it fine to roughly measure route distance.

NMN - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes and thanks for taking fit club on.

Running goals:
Snowdon Race - 1h 35m.
Edale Skyline - 4h.
Ben Nevis Race - 2h 20m.
Wasdale - get round.

STG:
Get out climbing again & regularly onsighting VS / HS.
MTG:
Push trad grade.
LTG:
Lead a tough E1.


M - 4.09m road run, 40ft.
T - 4.10m road run, 42ft.
W – working away.
T – 5.14m road run, 62ft.
F – 4.38m fell run, 1,136ft.
S - 7.00m road run, 312ft.
S - 6.00m road run, 205ft.
JimmyKay - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

SHIT.

BIG BIG DECISION. HELP.

I've just been asked to go to Kalymnos for 2 weeks.

Kalymnos or the traditional Font trip....
Kevster - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Font can be done as a couple of long weekends, Kaly can't.
JimmyKay - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to Kevster:

Good point. It's a drive away. Kaly will also be with a mate who is leaving to live NZ in Sept. this is a no brainer really isn't it...
Daniel Heath - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Kaly defo!
biscuit - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

Oh dear.

Worst typo ever !

Obviously meant 7a - but you never know.
Joughton on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to ally smith: Amazing week in Turkey Ally, that's a great ticklist! Wish I was good enough at redpointing to get 8a+ in two sessions, very jealous.
biscuit - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Are you the same Jimmy who has just been saying he wants some long stamina based routes to go at cos that's what really gets him going ?

Get to Kaly and get crushing.
biscuit - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath:
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> Great week, I can't do that much intervals without burning out!

I wasn't doing that much. What i did this week was 5 min jog warm up and then 10x 100/120m ish intervals up a steep hill then jog back home up the rest of the hill. My aim is to do intervals everytime i run. I'm doing them to lose fat not to get fitter. I am not beasting myself so i can't do it again or i won't get the metabolism raising boost again the next day.

My legs have always been Ok with punishment, that's why i was always a runner before i discovered climbing.
biscuit - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Totally forgot that i've signed up to do an olympic distance triathlon in June back in the UK. Better get that into my goals somewhere as well - and start swimming and cycling.
biscuit - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Great trip Ally.

7c+ on-sight is amazing.
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Ian Bell - on 06 Jan 2013
Hi all

Goal - 7b+ pyramid still

Not that much this week. Back from Malta on Tuesday.

Friday - WW 4x6b all OS, 2 6a+ warm up, 6b+ almost onsight, messed up last move. 7a TR with a few rests. Tweaked something in my arm so stopped.

Sat - didn't climb to rest the tweaky arm so did weights instead, mostly shoulder. Also 100 sit ups.

Arm should be OK in a couple of days. Hopefully indoor climbing a couple of times a week and maybe outdoors if the weather is good.
IainRUK - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes: I use UKHillwalking map your route... for fell stuff..

And gmap pedometer for road routes..
sebastian74 - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:
I use runkeeper app on my wife's phone for on and off road running
so far very pleased
s
maria85 - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:
Cheers grubes.

Frustrating end to the week for me!!
Last week's goals:
- Orienteering NY day - tick
- 2 runs - tick
- 2x bike to work - One done
- 1 wall session - tick
- 1 FB/core session (aim lower this week and at least get one done?) - ha,ha,fail...
- Not plan the weekend until Thurs so the weather doesn't disappoint me again.Well, tick, but very unproductive weekend... see below!

M: Lunchtime run, 4.8km, 26 mins. Only a hint of hurting shins again :)
T: Orienteering. 45 mins. Good run (though slightly hungover!) though planned my route horrendously badly and didn't do well points wise.
W: Run after work - 25 mins around the chevin.
T: Depot after work. Did a wood (V3-6) that I hadn't managed to link before, and a few new purples (V3-5), plus nearly a full lap of the 6a+ circuit. Liking the circuit board.
F: Biked to work.... at which point my week ended somewhat early, long story short, I sliced my toe open pretty badly and got carted to hospital to be put back together. It's mending ok but will probably be two weeks or so before I'm able to run/climb :-(
S: Crutching around Meadowhall provided more exercise than expected... hard work!
S: Mainly lounged on sofa and ate chocolate.

What an idiot!! (the full story is pretty amusing/stupid if anyone wants a laugh...)
Plan for this week...
- FOUR (yes, four) core and fingerboard sessions. With nothing else to do, surely I can manage this?!
- Hoping to get back on the bike towards the end of the week.
- Not be tempted by trying to do anything too soon and rip the bugger open again :(
- Come up with specific goals for this year, have only generalised so far.



maria85 - on 06 Jan 2013
In reply to Ali:
I feel your frustraion with mapmyrun... sometimes it seems to work fine for me, other times it will just decide to throw a hissy fit. Usually not taking the distance off when you hit undo. Closing and reopening the browser usually does the trick.

I've been using memory map recently, as we have it at work. Not sure how much it is to buy but I'm sure it won't be cheap. A quick google seems to show trailzilla.com is the online version, for £7.50 a year which could be worth it depending on what/where you're mapping.
grubes - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
James
I might be doing a quick trip to font (4 days) at half term more than welcome to join if it will help your decision.
Mutl3y - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Hello grubes, hope it's ok if I join in.

I'm 1.7m tall and last May was 85 kilos of blubber - pretty near to an obese BMI. I lost a bit of weight in the next few months but not much. By October I was 82kgs. Since then though I have been on a low carb, low calorie diet and as of yesterday was 70kgs.

My goal is to keep/regain the momentum and get gown to 60kgs by March. Then work out what it is I want to do from there - I've been 75+ kilos since I was 18 so this will be new to me. Hopefully it will have an impact on my climbing.
Nomics4sale - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Morning grubes and thanks very much for taking over. I like your goal for me, mainly cos I did much better at it this week so hopefully can keep it up. Thanks for the input :-) And yes, getting syked for Spain! Morrocco seems too far away tho and i want to see how it goes with trad in the Summer before making any goals. Sounds like you've already got your USA goals sorted out, bet the tick list will keep growing!

STG: V6 at BBUK, 7b RP indoors or out
MTG: 7b RP in Spain in March
LTG: more E1s Summer 2013 and look at E2.

Mon: Beginner BM routine.
Tues: 11.1 mile run, 827m ascent. Fairfield via Grisedale Pike
Wed: BBUK short session on new set. 1 x V5 flash, 1 x V5 tick, had a go at an easy loooking V6.
Thurs: Kendal Wall, tried a new 7a twice, no joy. Another go at a long 7a I tried last week, no joy, Should get both next session. Flashed a 6c. Took some falls.
Fri: 10.2 mile run, 1,202m ascent. Hart Crag, Fairfield and St Sunday.
Sat: Stockport with ER, another good session. Tried the purple 7a but the crux for me is clipping from a strenuous position. Decided to sack it off. Tried another 7a twice but no joy then tried another 7a+ (easy) I've been on before but no joy. Both should go soon. Flashed an easy 6c. Took some falls.
Sun: 1.5 hours desultory bouldering at Almscliffe, working on Cricifix traverse which I had totally forgotten how to do. Bit of fingerboarding (pull ups and lock offs) later on.

Am now increasinigly worried about my finger as it's more or less permanently swollen and sore. It was quite bad after almscliffe bouldering on sunday so lord only knows why I thought it was a good idea to get on the finger board afterwards. Goal for the week is to NOT fingerboard, or at least not use that finger when I'm on it. I think I can do this by taping the swollen finger to the one next to it? Probably a better idea to lay off for a while though. Might also visit the GP to get a referral to a finger specialist (if one exists!).

Got on a V6 at BBUK and had a couple of goes on it. I realised after though that I need to keep on it if I'm going to make any progress. I didn't really get anywhere after only 2 goes. Still, it's progress for me to get on it at all.
Nomics4sale - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to annak:

That looks like a fantastic couple of weeks! A bit of sunny bolt clipping, then your first ever scottish winter climbing, with a bit of running and winter walking thrown in. Doesn't get much better than that :-)
Nomics4sale - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Ali:

I'm like NMN, I use a garmin watch and garmin connect but it only gives you the info after you've done the run. It would be really useful to have an online mapping tool for mapping potential routes beforehand so you have realistic estimate of distance and ascent before setting off. Gonna have a look at everyone's suggestions. Thanks for posting the question!!
grubes - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:
> Wed: BBUK short session on new set. 1 x V5 flash, 1 x V5 tick, had a go at an easy loooking V6.
> Sun: Bit of fingerboarding (pull ups and lock offs) later on.
>
> Am now increasinigly worried about my finger as it's more or less permanently swollen and sore. It was quite bad after almscliffe bouldering on sunday so lord only knows why I thought it was a good idea to get on the finger board afterwards.

Your fingers feeling sore and you are bouldering a lot and fingerboarding. Both I would guess at your grades finger intense.
Crucifix traverse should not be too bad on the fingers assuming you are doing the high not the low one. There is only 1 crimp at the end of the first half.
Try focusing on slopers and jugs for a week or two. If your finger is still swolen today ice, if not leave it a couple of days then do hot/cold therapy (as per Dave McLeod website).

Rest if you need to don't wreck yourself spain is not that far away ...
Nomics4sale - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Yeah I'm kind of ignoring it hoping it will go away. I think I'll tape up and do the hot/cold therapy and if it gets any worse then lay off for a while. I could do without another prolonged bout of injury! You're right the travsere isn't too fingery so it's a good one to get on. When it's dry....
Ali - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Thanks to everyone for the replies! I don't have a funny heavy expensive watch thingy, so just go off rough estimations... But it is useful to have some tool for trying to work out new routes and if you've done something a bit different. I find it quite hard to push myself running so perhaps being a bit more accurate measuring would help with motivation (and probably recording my times!).

Will have a look at the suggestions, but don't really want to pay for something I may only use occasionally.
Ali - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to maria85: Yeeouch! That sounds painful...hope it mends soon...

Go on, give us the story - I could do with a laugh for a Monday morning ;-P
Kevster - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes,

Been a couple of weeks since I posted, and this is the essay post of the year, ie looking back across the year and where to go. Split into 2 posts.

Xmas/new year.
Pre xmas - Hemel indoors, did about 2/3 the lead routes to 7b nearly all OS - smallish lead area, liked the wall though so it may become a every few month venue. Anyone know how often they reset?

Xmas-NY Chorro was very good, though I only climbed 4.3 days due to various reasons. I led all 17 routes attempted cleanly and tried to lead OS/flash all. Happy with the tally, though a higher 7 would have been nice too.
1x 7b (RP'd 5th attempt)
3x 7a+ (1xOS 1xFlash 1x RP 3rd attempt)
2x 7a (1xOS 1X RP 2nd attempt)

Post new year
Indoors - Castle volume bouldering upto V4/5
Outdoors - Cuttings on Sunday - Really keen for HoM. It was sopping wet, tried at the end of the day and the below overhang jugs were really manky, so bailed off once I fondled the crux holds. Struggled on the 7a "Shiver me Timbers" - I found it balancy/off balance so no clean lead.

Plans for the next week: Indoors twice, other exercise once.

Thanks,

Kev.
Kevster - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Kevster:
2nd half:

Last year/this coming year reflection - mostly cathartic, so don't feel obliged to read it:

2011 vs 2012

Overall volumes
2012 was a bad year for getting out (217climbs/53 days out). 10 days less outside and 70 fewer climbs than 2011. I think weather was a real factor.

Trad - 2012's real gains. Smashed my goals.
2011: E1 x 10 (7xOS) E2 x 2 (1xOS 1xRP) E3 x 2 (2xOS)
2012: E1 x 23 (18xOS) E2 x 13 (12xOS) E3 x 6 (4xOS) E4 x 1 (1 rest)

A huge up in volume and confidence to tie in and try. From confident HVS climber at the start of the year I was getting the confidence to E2 by autumn. Really need to keep this maintained!

Sport - Stagnated, but I don't feel I dropped skills or stamina much. Should have ticked 7c but didnt put enough days in. OS skill still starts running out about 6c/+ and OS 50% of 7a's has been the same for over 2 years now.
I did think that my first OS of 7a+ was at Chorro this year, but my log book suggests I did one in 2011 at Tintern too. Never mind, still good!

2011: 7ax17 (13 led clean) 7a+x12 (7 led clean) 7bx5(3xRP) 7b+x2 (1RP) and tried 7cx1 and 7c+x1
2012: 7ax14 (9 led clean) 7a+x13 (9 led clean) 7bx4 (3xRP) and tried 7b+x2 and 7cx2

Not a massive reduction in volume, except at the top end 7's.
I aim to keep up a 7 a day when sport climbing and trying to normalise OS 7a expectations.

Bouldering - 2 days, maybe 3 outside. Can't recall doing a Ft7a this year, but did a couple of 6c's. Hardly boulder indoors either and seem to plateau at V5. Although a weakness, I deliberatly rope climb as I have knee issues for landings.


Ambitions for this year:
Trad
- Maintain confidence and after a brief getting upto speed again through march, plan on one E2 a day when trad climbing. OS E4.
Gogarth, pembroke, lundy, swanage are all heavy contenders to push me.

Sport
- STG (by end of april) Hall of mirrors & Chillula. Maybe another mid to high 7 too. A 7 a day sport climbing.
- MTG (end of summer) More volume and try harder RP's and OS's
- LTG (End of year?) 8a RP & 7b OS

Bouldering - try to do more indoors to get stronger.

I think that covers it,

Cheers! Kev
AJM - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Well, the climbing is done. I was going to write a big essay but then decided that no one was likely to read it anyway (I got part way through and it was huge already) and that really the musings were the only bit that were at all interesting.

So in terms of what I achieved, I ticked a 7b+ redpoint, a 7b redpoint, a 7a+ onsight and a 7a onsight, plus about 4 6c+ onsights and some easier stuff. But I also failed on a lot of stuff...
7a+:
DropZone - last route of the trip, fell off the last hard moves onto the ledge (I think - top looked easy and by that point I was sick of failure so just bailed)
Amele - poor route reading on the onsight go, then dropped it same point on my only redpoint go before sacking it.
Something on the first day that was more like 7b and nails thin...
7a:
Karinca - flash pumped. Woulda thought by now I'd have learned that a techy slab 6b+ is not enough warmup for a pumpy tufa 7a wouldn't you?
Hortum - overbalanced about 3cm from the good holds you get standing on the top of the tufa.
Bartabus - fell off the clipping holds because the chain has been placed in a really frustrating place.
Fight the butcher - fell off the crux at the start of the extension bit.

Notable other failure mention goes to the 7b I did redpoint, which should have gone second go after a fall on the flash attempt but I dragged out to 6th tie-in through sheer stupidity and some bad luck.

Positives and negatives to take away:
+ finding a proper knee bar rest (hands off in a proper core intensive knee bar on overhanging ground) on the 7b+, as well as getting some good knee use on some of the onsights, means my tufa climbing is improving. Whilst I fell off a lot of things, few of them were actually on the tufa sections, although looking at the pattern it seems getting out of the top of tufas, where it all goes slopy, is still an issue.
+ very chuffed with the 7a+ onsight, felt like a lot more of a long fight than the one I did in Rodellar, and I was placing draws too
+ Ally said the 7b+ I did was hard, more so than one of the 7cs he did, which gives me confidence that 2013 will bring the 7c/+ holiday tick
- stupid tactical mistakes like not being warmed up, not working out where to clip a draw from on redpoint, stuff like that - shouldn't be making them!
- far worse success ratio on the 7as than in Buoux/Tarn at Easter
- maybe a lack of underlying aero-endurance/route reading, as several routes I failed on I hung round for too long before committing to moves I eventually fell from.
- bicep issues have returned following the epic battle with that bloody bartabus route. Honest to god, cruxes clipping the chains are just uniformly a shite idea!

Basically, it's been bittersweet. I had bit of a mental struggle going on part way through the trip (I started off onsighting really badly, through lack of rock miles I think) in terms of comparing it to Rodellar and Loup in terms of days climbing vs ticks achieved. I sort of decided to take the gamble, and go for broke on a big onsight push for the second half of the trip rather than sticking within my comfort zone and redpointing stuff. I take some comfort from the fact I'm confident that my "comfort zone" trip would probably have involved a couple of 7b+ redpoints and probably (if enough time at one sector could have been arranged) a 7c too, so that's a sort of progression in itself in that 12 months ago that would have been amazing (although, since I didn't do it, those ticks are purely hypothetical!). But I sort of feel that the gamble didn't really pay off, in that I only really got one very hard (7a+) onsight in, plus the 7a, and spend a lot of time down/cross/raging/etc about falling off shit.

So, back home in the early hours, then back to work Wednesday, going to have a few quiet days (girlfriends parents down at the weekend so probably until then), work on the eccentrics for the elbow/bicep, maybe do some core or something, and get some work on the van done.
Kevster - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

Volume wise, a good trip, especially as you were doing 6 laps on 7bs! (before ticking)
I often neglect to recognise that each failed attempt is still an ascent, I wouldn't dream of tying onto 6 different 7bs in a day, yet would happily have repeated goes at the same one in a day. I realise that as the moves are learnt, it gets easier, but the grade is for the easiest method, so maybe the first go is the 7b+ or harder method?

So 8a this year then Andy?
AJM - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Kevster:

The 7b went:
- failed flash in the lower part of the crux
- blew redpoint by not working out where to clip the last draw from, did it in a very strenuous place and fell off the next move
- arms gone

I then came back a different day and went for:
- bolt to bolt to warm up
- blew it when my hand pinged off a hold on the last hard move (same fail place as go 2, different reason)
- tick

8a is the aim, yeah. Be good to get it done in 2013 as I think if it's still hanging when we go on the road trip the mental pressure could become a bit of a millstone round my neck if I don't manage it right...
Kevster - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

Sounds like you'll be at brean a lot then in jan/feb/March? Milky bar kid/black snake moan?
Also sounds like you are mentally kicking yourself over the 7b. Although a frustration, it is just a route. Reality was it didn't take 6 attempts to get though. Bolt to bolt doesn't count as a RP attempt in my book. Looks like you got it in 4 proper goes with attempt 3 being a tactical mistake?
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maria85 - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Ali:
So I ride into work on Friday morning and jump in the shower once I get there. Getting out of the shower, I realise I have forgotten my towel outside - there's a kind of main bathroom area with washbasins and towel racks off which are the loos and the shower, spilt off from the main warehouse/office by a door. Poke my head out of the door, no one around, the door to the office is closed. My towel is tantalizingly close... I make a dash for it. Grab towel, spin around, couple of quick strides back to the shower room.... wet feet on a slippy floor. I slide, hit the ground, my foot hits the shower, yowch. Horrible stubbed toe pain but I get up as I'm lying stark bollock naked with the door open... jump around on one foot slightly stunned trying to get the door closed and find some clothes.

Glance down and the floor is filling with blood. I REALLY need to get clothes on... throw on my sweaty bike shorts and a tshirt, whilst still bleeding everywhere and getting pretty faint... slump to floor and start calling the warehouse guy's name, with no response... get up again and hop around, trying desperately not to drip blood all over the carpet (and failing), before eventually finding someone to come and look after me in what now resembles a murder scene...

Feel like a total fool. Especially as I work in an office where everyone climbs/skis/runs... and hurts themselves in more action packed ways than showering!

mrchewy - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes: Cheers Grubes - may be the last grade IV of the season for me - work has rolled in and looks like I may be too busy to get back up there. We'll see. Some good stuff done by the looks of it whilst I've been away.

Weight 79.1kg. So slightly less than the start of Dec, despite drinking lots of beer and whisky on my two week road trip.

Mon - Run 2.4 mile. Walk 0.6 mile with stack of peat on my shoulder. Run 1.8 mile.
Tue - Got in the sea of NW Scotland!!! Trad @ Mellon Cliffs, Ruhba Mor. Soloed HS 4c, VD. Led two Severe's and tried a VS 5a but was starting in the wrong place we found out later. Not led much at all last year, so happy to start the year early. HS 4c equals my best lead.
Wed - 12.6 mile walk from Gruinard Bay. Very wet.
Thu - Trad at Opinan Slabs Ruhba Mor. Led a VD, seconded a Diff and a new VD. Put more gear in than needed on the VD, need practice.
Fri - The Lakes. 12.6 mile walk. Pinnacle Ridge on St Sunday's Crag, Helvellyn and Swirrel Edge.
Sat - Walk 11.6 mile in Grizdale Forest.
Sun - Wales. BIG breakfast and then travel home finally.

A decent trip despite the weather. Scottish IV 4 lead, a HS 4c onsight solo and led a few routes. Some decent walking and a few runs too, despite sketchy and variable weather.

GOALS for 2013.

Lead E1. Only have on HS logged at the moment. Got no issues with trad or being above gear, just been a bit lazy if I'm honest. Ideally would like three E1s by year end but would be happy finishing solid on VS.

Boulder V4 outdoors - manage the Pump Traverse on the RAC boulders for a start.

Lead 7a sport. (Aspirational) Bit of a dream this one but it will keep me focused all year. Shorty's Dyno in Dinorwig, it's not too long and a soft touch I'm told. Will be happy with a 6b outdoors.

2012 was amazing and need to build on that. A new 800m route in the Atlas, a Scottish IV 4, a sport 6a onsight, feel confident on English 4c and happy to have a go seconding 5b. Did one V3 outdoors and a few indoors, wandered halfway up the Eiger on my own till a storm stopped me in my tracks and soloed a few alpine routes including a D+. Even had a go at a 6b+ on the comp wall at Pinnacle. Finished a 69 mile ultra, completed an adventure race, did a 50 mile training week and finished the year lighter, stronger and fitter than I started.

Now I've patted myself on the back - I need to sort my footwork, get some strength in terms of pulling myself up, get more side on. Try far harder, get back running. Cycle more to save the knees and generally just give myself no excuses for being crap, even if I have lots of reasons for being so. More effort, all the time.

Happy New Year everyone!
Ally Smith on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

Hi Andy.
You might take heart from the fact that upoin checking i found Rattlesnake Saloon (the 6 goes 7b) had spanked me on my previous trip.
Rock mileage/route reading did seem to be one stumbling block for OSing at your limit, but perhaps the key was actually over analysing? The 6c+'s i belayed you on looked smooth and steady. Do you "clam-up" a bit when the difficulty increases, or can you zone out and "flow"?
Saying that, the 7a+ OS i belayed you on looked like you had all your tactics just right and were operating within your grade - 7b OS can't be far off.
A summer of redpointing outside should easily get you an 8a tick. I'm keen for a SW jolly to Cheddar and Brean sometime this spring and happy to belay...
Nomics4sale - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Did I see you on St Sunday after you'd got up Pinnacle Ridge? Brief chat about helmets and the wind?
mrchewy - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: Don't think it was me - didn't use a helmet but really should have. Might have been tho, I chat to everyone! Four lads were some way behind us and using lids.
mrchewy - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to maria85: Blimey - hope you're okay now!
mrchewy - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to mattrm: Good to see you've been outside climbing chap - fun times mean happy man.
Nomics4sale - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Wasn't you then, the blokes I chatted to were wearing their helmets. Probably the lads behind you as it was around 1pm by then, you were probably there earlier if you went on to Helvellyn.
mrchewy - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Ali: I use Endomodo - it's garbage at altitude but seems to get distance pretty correct.
mrchewy - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to biscuit: Top work on entering the tri - I hate swimming, really do or else I'd be wanting to do one myself this year.
mrchewy - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale: I think we topped out about 12pm as it only took 45 minutes. Cracking ridge tho, if a little greasy. One of the best scrambles I've done to be honest.
Eagle River - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks for taking over Grubes.

Goal: 7c by end of April

Wed: indoor routes. Hadn't climbed routes for over two weeks and was really tired so I climbed really badly.

Sat: indoor routes. Much better after some sleep, made progress on the pink 7c getting through a tough throw move at 2/3rds height for the first time from the ground. Just one horrific clip and the crux move to go... Kept the intensity high so as not to lose face in front of Nomics.

Jealous of everyone on trips and crushing. I might get one trip this year if I'm lucky as we're saving for a move.

Praying for some dry, crisp weeks....
biscuit - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to maria85:

I'm glad you explained in detail because it made me laugh...sorry.

Hope it's not too bad and heals quick for you.

As you say now no excuses not to get the upper body work done.
biscuit - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to mrchewy:

Hmmm. Only doing it as a favour to a mate. He wants to be not so fat at 40 so is getting some PE done and wanted something to aim for. I am there to hold his hand on the day and go round with him rather than 'race'. However if he's crap i am going to drop him and go as quick as i can ;0) The other alternative is he'll beat me of course.

He wants to do the novice or sprint and i want to go for the full olympic. I can crack off a 10k when tired and 40k or whatever it is on a bike on a flat course can always be ground out. The swimming fills me with dread though.

Getting in the pool when i am back from Morocco.
Ali - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to maria85: Sorry....it did make me laugh....if it makes you feel any better the shower once went out on me in the middle of showering and I had the dilemma of whether it was actually acceptable to go out into the office wrapped only in a towel to get it fixed...

I hope you have good cleaners :-) Anyway, I bet your colleagues' stories of injuries are just boring 'skied-into-a-tree' type stuff - you are a much more interesting person!

Hope it gets better soon and isn't too painful. On the plus side you will have arms like Popeye if you put all your exercise time into pullups and fingerboarding!
maria85 - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Ali & biscuit:
Made me laugh too, once it stopped hurting quite so much! My lovely colleagues dealt with the mess, I made them a cake today.

Not too painful anymore, can put shoes on now at least :) I hobbled 5 minutes to the bank and back at lunchtime, felt like quite the achievement!
oddtoast on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:
Cheers Grubes :) Cams are dragons, proper shiny.

Pathetic week to report, not sure why really but only did one run and no climbing, rubbish.

Know how you're feeling JimmyKay, spent day deciding whether to commit to a Spanish trip in April. Went for it in the end, I'll be able to find something at my level and will be a laugh with a good crowd, something to look forward to and motivation to get my arse in gear fitness and climbing wise to make sure I can get up stuff.

This time last year I was pondering learning to climb, wouldn't have thought one year later I'd be booking a bolt-clipping holiday. Have only climbed sport once and never been on limestone but I can worry about that in the meantime! She who dares n'all that :)
annak on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

Yes, it's been fantastic! I like Xmas but after the main event I'm usually bored until I go back to work, but not this year!
JimmyKay - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to oddtoast:

Where are you heading in Spain? I think that was a good decision made on your part.
oddtoast on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

and so was yours! Kaly looks gorgeous.

If it works out (not booked yet) staying in cornudella de monsant, so siurana, but will be having an explore - I know other crags have more stuff at my level going on :)
ads.ukclimbing.com
mrchewy - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to biscuit: A lot of my mates do sprint tri events but in reality, tey are only as long timewise as a rugby or football match - tell him he NEEDS to do the full distance or the bragging rights just aren't there ;-)
JimmyKay - on 07 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

M- Fly back from Barca. New Years. 3 house party's spanning approximately 12hours. I got back at 6 and got straight onto it. Turned midnight and I was swigging Champagne watching the Bham fireworks from the top of the Mailbox. That was about the halfway point.
T- Really needed bacon. Nando's for dinner.
W- Nothing
T- Got down the wall. Managed to get on the comp problems from the comp just before xmas. Did all of the women's finals bar one which I didn't try (apparently it's not too bad though) and saw off 2 of the men's and got pretty close to another. Good session, bouldering up to v8+ - lot's of hard sends. All in all about a 4hour session. Bought a month pass for BBC. Psyched.
F-Nothing
S- 2hour boulder session, Skin was shit so I sacked the harder problems off and did lots and lots and lots of circuits. Ended up being a good session despite the initial frustration. Good core at the end.
S-First run of the year. 50mins. followed by 100 pull-ups and plank.
AJM - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to ally smith and Kevster:

Cheers for the thoughts guys...

Ally - we saw Pete on Sunday (he didn't flash Flat Rate, incidentally) and he said he thought that Melting Souls was easier than Rattlesnake too. Probably some sort of mental block going on since as you say the 6c+s felt like perfect second warm-up material but then anything harder just went a bit dicy...

Hopefully catch you in the spring then. Incidentally, 90 minutes delayed so far from when my flight should have landed and I'm still in Stansted waiting for luggage. Snow at Istanbul... Pissed off doesn't even come close...
Ally Smith on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

Sounds familiar. We were 55min delayed on the ATY-SAW sector too. Finally got home at 0315 and felt wasted for rest of Sunday.

See you in the SW once this god awful weather has sorted itself out!
pork pie girl - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

w/c 31st jan:

m mountain bikinng (4 hour cross country .. about 1000m of ascent)routes.. leading 6 x 6a+ to 6c+ top rope 7b+ twice, laps on top rope of 4x6c+ and down climbing 5+
t fell run (720 m of ascent over a don't know how many miles but it was up all the way with little relief)and then walk round ingleton water falls
w mountain biking (same as monday)and 1.5 hr bouldering session at wall.. best effort ticked a few v3, a couple of v4s, wored 2x v5/6s and one move off top for each, worked first couple of moves of a couple of v7s
t cardio in gym and core(bike for an hour )bouldering for 1.5 hours .. similar to day before
f rest day but ended up dismantling built in wardrobe, sorting out garage and loading van for tip... all day job.. so not that restful
s mountain bike ride... 4 hour job.. loads of ascent, nice weather, 1 hour bouldering session at wall... felt rushed but ticked the v5/6s that i was trying... 10 degree wall on crimps.. worked v7 route on much steeper route.. small improvement with first two moves... and afew easier routes
s cardio in gym (bike for 45 mins) and core 2.5 hour bouldering session. a few eaiser routes, repeated the two crimpy v5/6s, worked a similar v6, a steeper v5 and a v6 with open handed more that proved hard for me, worked the steep v7.. slight improvment, worked another v7.. backside kicked, struggled on a steep v4 (hopefully under graded)

this week so far:
monday teh 7th ... lunch time..weights ( all muscle groups) including 140 wide grip pull ups/ narrow grip pull ups over 7 sets and core. pm cardion (45 mins on bike in gym) 1.5 hour bouldering indoors... ticked the v6 with the open handed move.. body tension was the key.. bum kicked on v7 probelems.. knew it wouldn't be a greta session due to weight training and pull ups at lunch time

ppg
pork pie girl - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to ally smith: awesome form in turkey ally
mattrm - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Running apps on smartphones all suffer from the same issue, which is apart from a couple of notable exceptions, they use A-GPS (Assisted-GPS) which uses your cell tower to get a fix from. So they'll all suffer from the same kind of issues, eg not getting the height gain at all right and dropping off under bridges etc. Apps that I've used are:

Endomondo (currently use this)
runkeeper
Strava

They're all much of a muchness. Pick one and stick with it.

biscuit - Not sure what the 20 minute one is. I did the first 40 minute work out. It was pretty brutal really, but I'm not feeling it too much this morning. I struggled to finish all of the exercises. The last section of three was tough. I barely did half of the exercises. Hopefully when I get used to them it'll get easier, but not knowing what they were was a struggle. I did actually like the motivational stuff.

Ali - Scottish winter stuff is ace but frustrating. That's a nice first route you did as well.

Dan - If you like intervals, the insanity workout is well worth doing.

maria - Ouch. Sounds amusing tho.

AJM - I know it's probably a bit far but there's an 8a (or 8a+ depending on who you listen to) here at Witches Point, which is the sport crag at the end of Ogmore. It is a sea cliff, but that section of the base isn't tidal (you get cut off, but you can easily climb out). I'd be happy to belay if you decided to project it. If not it's a nice sport crag anyway.

mychewy - ta matey. Sounds like a great trip. Lots of good mountain stuff. Which is always nice.

Nomics4sale - That finger sounds nasty. Take a week off and rest it. Your fitness won't decrease much over a week, but if you injure your finger really badly it will when you have to take a month or two off to let it recover. Certainly no crimping!

Thanks to all for the diet advice. I know what to do, its just doing it that's the issue really. I've been using all the crap that's been going on over the past 6 months or so to slack off and eat whatever I fancy. That and a distinct lack of exercise has caused the weight gain.
AJM - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to ally smith:

Snow at Istanbul meant our 1720 flight left about 1820 and then spent about an hour on the Tarmac at Istanbul because I think the pilot f*cked up getting it into his parking space, we had to be pushed back out again. Our next flight supposedly started boarding at 2015 and we only got into the terminal at 2000. Then another hour or so on the Tarmac at Istanbul waiting to take off, then the usual delays at border control in Stansted, then they lost our baggage for about an hour, presumably because the staff had gone home! Final result was out of airport at about 0130, home 0430.

Knackered. Fry up cooking...!
AJM - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to mattrm:

> AJM - I know it's probably a bit far but there's an 8a (or 8a+ depending on who you listen to) here at Witches Point, which is the sport crag at the end of Ogmore. It is a sea cliff, but that section of the base isn't tidal (you get cut off, but you can easily climb out). I'd be happy to belay if you decided to project it. If not it's a nice sport crag anyway.

Cheers Matt - not sure if a potential 8a+ is the ideal first choice but definitely been keen to check witches out for a while anyway - there's stuff like staple diet and so on which look really good too even if the 8a/+ proves a bit of a challenge :)

I'll try and get in touch come springtime and sort something out...
Ali - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Wow, you're a beast (in a good way)! :-) Am seriously impressed....and feel very slack in comparison! How on earth do you do 140 pull ups?!?!

pork pie girl - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to Ali:

lol @yoy're a beast.. you've obviously talked to someone who's seen me when i've just got up!! i do that many over 7-8 sets .. so twenty per set which i alternate with usually leg exercises which sort of gives the top half a rest for a minute or two... would be more beneficial to rest completely though between sets of pull ups... hasn't improved my finger strength and i'm still quite a girl on steep ground unfortunately
Daniel Heath - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

I've only done one set of more than twenty pull ups

in my life!
mattrm - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

That'd be great. Just let me know. I'm about a 10 minute drive away from Witches, it's very easy for me to get there for an evening.
pork pie girl - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to Daniel Heath: but you can knock out quite a few then... so your sets after that probably reduce by about 5 reps eat time? still very good.
AJM - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

I'm worse than Dan - not sure my one-set-max of pullups has ever hit 20!!!

Looking at your week, I find myself wondering what your goals are - I seem to remember 7bs? Or had you done 7b and wanted to push higher? You seem to be crushing V5-6 and working at V7s, and you can monster me (and almost everyone I know, probably) at pullups - do you know what your weakness is that's stopping you? (serious question, not rhetorical, just in case it isn't clear)

In reply to mattrm:

Cheers, look forwards to it. Pester me if I've not done anything by about mid-May because I always get a bit kid-in-a-candy-store when the weather gets better and have far too many places to visit for the time available ;)
pork pie girl - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to AJM:

hiya AJM... i rambled on last week about my goals...

i don't thinbk doing lots of pull ups help my clnbing that much but it's a thing i've always done and enjoy

i RP a 7b in sept at malham.. i want to RP 7c this year..but might not br realistic

i'm not crusing v5/6 on steep ground... and v7s is way out of my league on very steep ground... at the moment i can do two moves of a 12 move problem .. but i am quite good at enjoying even tiny gains

weaknesses are... hip flexibility with high step ups, fear, indoor climbing.. struggle to find solutions to reach issues in comparison to reach issues on rock, open handed strength is rubbish, can't jam for a toffee... not full hand jams anyway.. ok with smaller cracks when just require fingers, power endurance, finger strength still way off what it needs to be.. the list goes on.. oh and swearing on routes... i should eb banned from some venues.
Curious Yellow - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks for taking on the thread grubes :-)

Good work Ally S and Andy. Rattlesnake Saloon was my first 7b so I'm glad to hear it's not soft!
Hi AllyBee :-) Crying Boy is desperate! I seem to remember having a bit of a cry on it too...

Quick summary of Chorro, lots of 6c OS but nothing harder. Had good attempts at Hakuna Mata (7a+) and one of the 7a's at Desplo, flashed El Arabe Perdido (7a) on a toprope. Worked Rock the Kashbah a bit but didn't RP it (nice one Kev and nice one on your 7a+ OS too). Great trip. Got back late Sunday so not much else to report, taking a few days off now.

Anyway, I guess it's that time of year...


- Goals for 2012

Onsight 7a - tick
4x 7a+ onsight attempts - done (2x fail, 2x tick - totally surprised and very pleased)
2x 7b+ (inc Road Rage) - fail, best RP 3 moves off the top of Road Rage
7c (?Hall of Mirrors) - done (Nightmare Scenario)
Finish 7b+ and 7c pyramids - fail, 2x 7b+ left to do
Start work on 7c+ pyramid - just about, 1x 7b done
Try the moves on Fighting Torque - done, they're really hard!
30/44 routes on Portland hit list - fail, I need an updated and more inspiring list I think
Skip the clip and take the fall from the chains on Road Rage - close enough, I fell clipping instead and probably went a bit further!


- Goals for 2013

Consolidate onsighting at 7a
Finish Something Stupid and Road Rage
Hall of Mirrors or another 7c
Finish 7b+ and 7c pyramids (2x 7b+ to do)
Complete up to top level of 7c+ pyramid (3x 7b, 2x 7b+, 1x 7b)
Start work on Portland hit list v2.0
Improve boulder strength - V6 indoors

Happy belated New Year everyone!

AJM - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to Curious Yellow:

The hardest section on Rattlesnake Saloon might be only about 5 moves out of a hands off rest, but they're pretty hard moves!

You got any thoughts about Easter by the way? Doubt I can take actual holiday but keen to do something for the 4 days if weather permits...
AllyBee on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes - hi again!

Second week of the trip has been a bit mixed - some good things but slightly let down by bad weather, illness and moping...

Very STG (rest of this trip):
Try to enjoy myself, without stressing about how badly I'm climbing - i.e. lead all the easy routes I can find for mileage [Kind of failed], mess about on toprope on some harder ones [I did a few], and get a decent suntan :) [Failed - too much rain!!]

STGs (next couple of months):
1) Get braver:
Do at least two roped wall sessions a week, and at each one take at least five lead falls from above the bolt. Also try just letting go after clipping the anchor, instead of waiting for the rope to go tight.
2) Get stronger:
Pull-up sets twice a week on the large holds on the fingerboard. Work up to being able to do three unassisted pull ups in a row (I can currently do almost one...)
3) Get fitter:
Climbing fitness: at least two wall sessions a week (as above), and do some aerobic training on the fingerboard (20-30 mins feet-on hanging, moving hands between holds, in front of TV)
General fitness: sign up for a lunchtime exercise class at the University gym. It's right next to my building so there's no excuse!

MTG (start of spring, when the weather gets better):
Go to Portland and try to onsight as many 6a's and 6a+'s as I can...

LTG (by January 2014, when we leave for our road trip)
1) I'd like to be at a level where I can onsight 6b consistently, 6b+ with some effort and 6c on a good day when I'm trying really hard.
2) 7a redpoint


M: Nothing - rain

T: Nothing - rain

W: Good day! Went to belay boyfriend on steep stuff at Mevlana as it was still raining a bit, but found some sheltered easier routes at sector Ottoman next door. Utterly failed on Spider Solitaire (6a), finding a hard move near the start too committing on lead, but did Jass Party (5c) and then (excitingly, for me) managed a different 6a (Dame de Pique). It felt pretty easy compared to the other ones I tried, but I'm taking the tick!

Th: Bad day... The sun came out finally so I went to try leading a collection of 5b's and 5c's I'd had my eye on at Right Cave sector. They all turned out to be a bit desperate - I lowered off a bolt on two of them, and toproped another and still found it quite hard. I tried to finish off one of the first two by clipsticking the bolt above where I was struggling, but then got stuck again trying to reach the chains. Then I had a a coffee and a bit of a sulk and donated my belayer to Ally S's Ikarus redpoint. Tried Lila Launabar (5b) at Trebenna at the end of the day - it felt better since it wasn't slabby, but I still panicked and grabbed bolts a few times...

F: Nothing - feeling ill :(

Sa: Slept until lunchtime as still feeling rubbish, then went to the campsite crags in the afternoon. Had a go at Turkish Standard (6b+) on tope rope - got to just below the last bolt cleanly, then fell off trying to do a ridiculous high rockover to stretch for a distant undercut. Post-move analysis when hanging on the rope suggested that I'd tried to do a desperate move straight up the bolts because I was scared of the swing if I'd gone up the actual holds to the left. I then took the swing deliberately, it wasn't that bad, and the moves then felt fine - I think there is a lesson here somewhere...

Su: Sector Anatolia: toproped No Name (6a) cleanly, and managed Muskelkater (6b+) mostly ok, but took a few goes to figure out the crux move. Led Gey-ik (5a) to finish the day.

(M: Last morning of climbing - clean toprope ascent of Yilan (6a+). I was very pleased with this - I finally felt like I was climbing well and was able to keep going despite getting pumped on the last bulge before the top.)


With hindsight, I think I made a tactical error this trip: I was so focused on my bad lead head that I failed to notice it was actually more of a whole belayer/rope/bolt system trust issue - i.e. I was also feeling quite nervous falling onto a slack toprope and when hanging on the anchors to thread through. Once I gave up the idea that I "should" be leading stuff and just focused on climbing well on top rope things started to feel a bit better - there was a mental challenge going on but it was something I could overcome, whereas leading just felt ridiculous! I finally felt like I was climbing the way I wanted to on the last route of the trip (Yilan, 6a+), where I had to fight through the pump towards the top, but I found I was able to focus on the climbing instead of the rope and keep going. Maybe if I'd started off with this attitude I'd have enjoyed the start of the trip more, done more routes and built up my confidence, instead of getting frustrated with leading and losing all motivation (for example, there was enough dry rock to climb when it was raining - I just didn't feel like it). Something to remember for next time...

Home now, and going to start organised training next week - psyched! Future posts will be shorter...
seankenny - on 08 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks very much for taking this over Herr Grubesmeister von Fittel Kluben.

I suppose I should write a big thing about goals for 2013 but I can't be bothered right now, and they're similar-ish to last year's, which removes a bit of the incentive. I suppose I could copy and paste and put a "+" on the grades or something!

Anyhow, here goes:

M: Nothing.
T: 2.3m run, some weights.
W: Nothing.
T: Quick bouldering session at the Westway. Did first white problem (V3 - V5), pleased with that as it was my little goal for the next few weeks.
F: Nothing.
S: Felt a bit ill.
S: Bouldering at Birchens, not sure if worth the effort as it was rather damp and foggy, but climbed up to about V3 which is what I'd expect.

Hopefully more in the week to come. Want to start ramping up the bouldering a little.
grubes - on 10 Jan 2013
In reply to AllyBee:
> (In reply to grubes)
> STGs (next couple of months):
> 1) Get braver:
> Do at least two roped wall sessions a week, and at each one take at least five lead falls from above the bolt. Also try just letting go after clipping the anchor, instead of waiting for the rope to go tight.

Thats a good goal to have. Don't worry you are not alone in this I had a conversation with Biscuit end of last year.
Anyone who has belayed me will know I am not apposed to falling. Come to think of it I think everyone on here who has belayed me has caught a lead fall at some point (biscuit, ER, nomics?).

Its something I have done some work on. I found the thing at made me get round it was convincing myself the fall will be fun.
The first proper lead fall helps the head a lot. A fall when above the gear/bolt with slack in the line.
Once you have taken that fall you know its never going to be too bad after that.
The key to fall practise is trusting your belayer. Make sure you are happy with your belayer its not someone who is distracted easily and you are happy they will catch your fall.

Anyway good luck with your training. Sounds like you had fun on holiday even though it rained.
biscuit - on 10 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

It's true, he falls off all the time :0P

For me i had to go right back to letting go on a top rope and work up very slowly from there to letting go at the bolt then a tiny bit above the bolt etc.

It worked but it still comes back if it's been a while. I find that doing a practice fall during warm up helps me for the rest of the day as it reminds me it's not that bad and i can get on with focussing on the climbing.

However much drop clip or letting go on the belay i did it never prepared me for an on-sight leader fall. The warm up fall usually quitens that demon for me.
Only twice have i ever climbed a hard for me route without any worry of falling. It's worth working towards though bcecause it's a brilliant feeling when it comes off.
Pagan - on 10 Jan 2013
In reply to Ali:

Bike hike is excellent for route planning at home - altitude is pretty good (way, way better than mapmyrun anyway) and it has OSmaps capability for off road stuff as well as an Ordnance Survey interface you can plot on top of. Free too.

I use Endomondo when I'm out and about but I hardly ever remember to turn it on...
Nomics4sale - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Not sure I've belayed you on routes but you did plenty of falling bouldering ;-) Only kidding..

Nomics4sale - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to Pagan:

that's a really good resource, I'll be using that. Thanks.
biscuit - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to grubes:

Pre emptive post as i am off to Morocco shortly.

I wanted to hit 15% average for body fat this week.

M - 66.3kg 14.9% - Insanity workout
T - 66.6kg 15.3% - Interval runs. 30 min total run and 5 1 min repeats up a big hill and then jog down recovery.
Board - 3 sets of 2min on 5min rest. In the sun so was hard work.
W - Forgot to weigh myself.
20min jog
El Torcalito - much better than last time. Need to move much better on steeprock but i could hang round for a lot longer whilst figuring stuff out.
T - 65.8kg 15.3% - 20 min jog.
Insanity workout
Board - 4 sets of 2min on 5 min rest. Early evening so much better. Need to up to 2m30s now i think.
F - 65.5kg 15.1%. Going out in Sevilla tonight so will eat lots of tapas but no drinking so not all bad.

Just about there with fatness so not too bad and Torcalito was encouraging.

I am doing this at the minute:

http://www.justgiving.com/dryathlete-andrew-mcvittie

sorry for the shameless plug. Trying to get £100 of online donations to top up what i am raising locally. Any amount will help and it's for a good cause. Sadly it's actually proving quite hard and a battle of willpower.

This weeks goal is to onsight E3 in Morocco and climb every day. We're stopping a few days in the South and then moving for a few days in the North i think. Very excited.

Nomics4sale - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to biscuit:

A little one to get you started.. Have an awesome trip and get on the E3s!! I'm hoping to go out to morocco later in the year so will be interested to see what you think.
AJM - on 11 Jan 2013
In reply to Nomics4sale:

It's (based on anti atlas) a very cool place with a lot of exploration to do and a lot of fun to have.

Biscuit, have fun!

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