/ NEWS: Elder Statesman HXS 7a for James Pearson
The route tackles the famous arete to the side of Elder Crack and was first climbed by Steve McClure back in 2004, and repeated not long after by Steve Dunning...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67844
I wonder if anybody has looked at going direct up the arete, avoiding the rest
Great effort from James
Presume Dunning's repeat is captured here:
"It took Steve three days but he managed to top rope it clean on his second go. Unfortunately he didn't have any large cams so he couldn't go for the lead on his first day. Day two was too warm and on Day three Dave Buchanan lent his dad's large friend and Steve climbed it on his first headpoint attempt."
Interesting what Pearson says here:
"This time I was very surprised to find some moves a lot harder than I had remembered. It soon turned out that a crucial pebble foothold had broken and nobody had climbed it since. The weather was good so I had a few attempts on the abseil rope last Thursday, figured out a method, and then climbed it on Friday. Super cool, crazy double sideways slap... very fun!"
> Presume Dunning's repeat is captured here:
You mean Dunning lanks it? ;o)
> Cheers for that. The clip only has 31 views, including me.
Nope, there are other versions of the same video on YT. ;)
Where is James' belayer hiding in the photograph?
The bottom half of the route is hidden in that photo, what looks a bit like the ground is actually some rocks in the foreground.
These might give you a better idea of where the belay would have been standing:
Belayer, I mean. <facepalm>
It's cool how many different ways to do hard problems there are. Bradd Pitt Springs to mind.
Even in top boulder comps there people seem to approach them in vastly different ways.
Interesting to hear that he chose to headpoint. I guess its not the nicest fall though...
> I wonder if anybody has looked at going direct up the arete, avoiding the rest
But there isn't really any lower arete, do you mean avoiding the runner in Elder Crack?
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