/ Easyish multi pitches for beginners.
Last year I led the diff & vdiff on Idwal Slabs. They were both brilliant - the climbing well within my grade, the setting fab, the route finding & getting off easy enough.
I'd like to set up a ticklist of similarish multi pitches to lead this year & was hoping for some recommendations.
I'm looking to stay about the same grade (up to S) to start with & don't have loads of experience route finding multis yet so could do with climbs that are fairly obvious in that respect.
Wales / Peak / Lakes ...
In Llanberis Pass -
Flying Buttress on the Cromlech. A classic route, can be done in up to 6 pitches, but never more than 1 ab from the ground.
I think Crackstone Rib is also good, but can't really remember the details. The Wrinkle is also good, but I don't think it's easy to protect the last pitch.
On Tryfan, there are a few options on Milestone Buttress. There are also classic routes on the East Face but these are long routes, so for when you are confident.
There aren't many easy multi pitch routes in the Peak. The only gritstone I've done that is long enough is on Hen Cloud or the Roaches. The Arete or Black and Tans can be done in 2 pitches, I'm not sure if I did though, I did Central Climb as a multi pitch, but that is VS.
In the Lakes, Dow Crag has some classic low grade multi pitch routes. Murray's Route and C Ordinary are both good climbs, Giant's Crawl is another classic, but I've not done it.
Dow crag has a few fine routes as already mentioned. Wallowbarrow is really nice too, shorter routes, lovely setting, and enough vd's / severes for at least a full day of it. Grey crag in Buttermere has some fine link-up type routes from about diff upwards. For all it can be busy, Shepherds crag in Borrowdale has a fine selection of routes throughout the grade range, all very accessible and with good views over Derwentw*ter.
Wales: Ogwen valley is filled with good mp routes. Central arete on Glyder gives a fine day out in splendid situations, can be combined with routes on Idwal slabs and their continuation for a long mountain day. Atlantic slab in Nant Francon is very nice, but protection can be somewhat sparse!
Tremadoc has plenty of lower grade routes too, again all with easy access and fine views (coastal rather than mountain).
Left edge on carnedd y filiast is a great vdiff. Slightly more run out than some of the idwal slabs vdiffs, but it makes up for it with grippier rock and a great location.
The diff next door, Waved slab, is good too.
Brilliant, thanks, I'll check these out. :)
Spiral Stairs on the Cromlech is also a must. Idwal Slabs has some good easy multi pitch climbs (be careful with the decent route which is actually not as difficult as it first appears) and Outside Edge at Cwm Silyn is another great V Diff. If you are prepared to do a long walk in you will be well rewarded by Amphitheatre Buttress on Carnedd Llwelyn probably one of the longest V Diff's in Wales.
Not a Lakes expert but try Route 1 on Scout Crag in Langdale for good grade value, also try the Brown slab routes at Shepherds as a warm up for little Chamonix as this can be polished and intimidating.
In Wales I'd recommend Wrinkle, Flying buttress and Spiral stairs in the pass, the latter is exposed and a bit freaky but stick with it cos its dead easy.
In the peak options are limited, true multi pitch options are limited but if convenience forces you to go here look at Matterhorn ridge in the Winnats pass, Long climb at Laddow and the long HVD in the Cioch bay at Millstone.
Further afield consider Bosigran which offers some excellent low grade multipitch routes, Northwest buttress on Buachaille Etive Mor in Glencoe, the Left hand of Beinn Eighes triple buttress in torridon (superb Diff but watch the bad step on the approach from the lower tier), easy routes but a full on mountain experience.
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