/ forearm/elbow pain

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JD84 - on 28 Feb 2013
I've strated getting a pain after climbing... just below crease of elbow, very slightly to ulna side.

2 things I've been doing recently I think could have caused it... trying a 7a+ traverse without adequate warm up (2 or 3 times a week for 3 weeks). And I've also been doing eccentric bicep curls to stretch out biceps (1 set 10kgs, 2 sets 14kgs - 2x a week).

Is this a common climbing injury? Seems to be around area of biceps/brachialis tendon insertion?

Any advice or links to info online?

Many thanks,

Jon
butterfingerz - on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to JD84: Golfers elbow?

http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Tennis-elbow/Pages/Introduction.aspx

I sometimes get this, especially when training MMA and sometimes comes on from when i have been overdoing it when climbing. Its similiar but on the opposite side of tennis elbow (inner elbow)
edinburgh_man on 28 Feb 2013
In reply to butterfingerz:
> (In reply to JD84) Golfers elbow?
>
> http://www.nhs.uk/conditions/Tennis-elbow/Pages/Introduction.aspx
>
> I sometimes get this, especially when training MMA and sometimes comes on from when i have been overdoing it when climbing. Its similiar but on the opposite side of tennis elbow (inner elbow)

Not necessarily, it could be the insertion of the bicep tendon rather than the medial epicondylitis.

Jon, it is nigh on impossible to obtain an accurate diagnosis via a web forum. Go and see a physio and get a proper diagnosis if it continues (itís the best £35 you can spend).

JD84 - on 01 Mar 2013
ok thanks
the power - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to JD84: id recommended Sheffield chiropractic clinic on chesterfield road woodseats see paul wilson he's a sports massage therapist knows his stuff and not to expensive.
'The Potts' - on 01 Mar 2013
I've been plagued with the same injury as yourself by the sounds of things, mine seems to appear when i've not been having enough rest days. However changing my gym rountine to incorporate bicep curls with the palms facing down targets the brachialis more strengthening it which seems to have reduced how often it occurs. Just a suggestion that worked for me cos i was too tight to go see a physio.
Kemics - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to JD84:

If it is Golfers elbow: Do concentric exercises!! -

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3614

2 weeks ago had very painful golfers elbow. tying shoe laces was painful, undoing flies was painful etc basically little day to day tasks were very uncomfortable and climbing was well out of the question.

2 weeks of this exercise, icing, ibuprofen and I have zero pain and went climbing yesterday with no problems. Miracle cure!
butterfingerz - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to Kemics:
> (In reply to JD84)
>
> If it is Golfers elbow: Do concentric exercises!! -
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3614
>
> 2 weeks ago had very painful golfers elbow. tying shoe laces was painful, undoing flies was painful etc basically little day to day tasks were very uncomfortable and climbing was well out of the question.
>
> 2 weeks of this exercise, icing, ibuprofen and I have zero pain and went climbing yesterday with no problems. Miracle cure!

In adddition to this compression/ support sleeves work wonders

ads.ukclimbing.com
JD84 - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to JD84: just had a massage and apparently my biceps and forearms were really tight and ropey. Hopefully that has sorted it and all tendons are still in good nick.
We'll soon see!

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