/ safe E1/E2's in lakes

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JanBella - on 01 Mar 2013
Hi can you suggest safe E1's and E2's in Langdale, Borrowdale or Thirlmare area? big thanks
ablackett - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to JanBella: Langdale E2 I would suggest Spring Bank. Small gear, but enough to keep it safe and an amazing pull through the roof in an incredible position.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=4196

Lower altitude and lower grade is The Bludgeon, Shepherds, Borrowdale. Not done it, but I understand it's safe and brutish.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=7566

There are hundreds to choose from, so you might get no replies on here because people might think it is a daft question. Have you got the FRCC selected guide? It's a cracking book.

mattrm - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to JanBella:

This looks useful:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=221

Also as suggested just hit up the E1s and E2s in the selected guidebook.
AlanLittle - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to ablackett:
> Langdale E2 I would suggest Spring Bank. Small gear, but enough to keep it safe and an amazing pull through the roof in an incredible position.
>

Stunning route and low in the grade. Was E1 5c when I did it which seemed reasonable at the time. The pull through the roof is in a stunning position but quite ok; the 5c bit is further down on the slab, short, and protected by very good small wires that iirc are at chest height when you start the sequence.

(Intern otoh I found unpleasant and scary. It was in the guide at the time at HVS - total sandbag)
Jon Stewart - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to JanBella:

Whit's End Direct and Springbank both fit the bill. I think WED is a better route personally, the slab climbing has more to it and crossing the roof is devious and exciting rather than simply hard as on Springbank.

White Gyhll is also worth a look. For some very hard well protected fun, White Whyll Eliminate gives a cruxy (6a?) tussle, and there are a few good E1s to go at.

For less mountainous stuff, First Touch on Black Crag (Wrynose) is a great safe little route.

I found Bludgeon really quite hard - but it's safe enough and very convenient.
Jon Stewart - on 01 Mar 2013
In reply to AlanLittle:
> (In reply to ablackett)
> [...]
>
> the 5c bit is further down on the slab

Don't know if we were on the same route - I found it all easy, except the pull through the roof which was really hard. WED however has hard slab climbing and is alright passing the roof.

> (Intern otoh I found unpleasant and scary. It was in the guide at the time at HVS - total sandbag)

Intern is fairly solid E1. Unsettling certainly, but I really enjoyed the route. Quite surprising, since it looks trivial.

AlanLittle - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to AlanLittle)
> [...]
>
> Don't know if we were on the same route - I found it all easy, except the pull through the roof which was really hard. WED however has hard slab climbing and is alright passing the roof.

It was a long time ago, but iirc the pull through the roof was exciting because the slightly wobbly jug I was pulling on also had my gear behind it. But a delightful route in every way.

>
> Intern is fairly solid E1. Unsettling certainly, but I really enjoyed the route. Quite surprising, since it looks trivial.

I think my problem on Intern was that it was early n the season when I had spent the preceding months mostly indoors, and the hard bit is the kind of slopy ledge shuffling for which climbing wall training is of no use whatsoever.

JanBella - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to JanBella: thanks for all the posts. it gives me good idea which way to go.. thakns again
Skyfall - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to JanBella:

A couple of others that spring to mind:

Black Icicle E1 at Shepherds has a tough but v well protected 1st pitch. 2nd pitch is bold but feels v easy in comparison (some mention of a loose flake but I don't recall this). Quite enjoyable route tucked awsy in the bay up and right of Little Cham area.

Aphasia E2 at Sergeants Crag Slabs in Borrowdale is actually v well protected for what is essentially a slab climb if you are happy with fiddling in pro into crozzly pockets. Sustained and superb.

Raindrop at Black Crag is also fairly well protected as I recall (long time ago now). Has some run-outs iirc there was gear where you needed it.
Morgan Woods - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to JanBella:

What's this obsession with finding "safe" routes? Does the lakes have a terrible reputation for necky routes in the lower e-grades? Not that one shouldn't seek recommendations, but no route is ever truly safe.
GridNorth - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to Morgan Woods: Agreed. In fact many might say that "safe" E1's/E2's are in reality HVS's. :-)
Skyfall - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to GridNorth:
> many might say that "safe" E1's/E2's are in reality HVS's

Well they would misunderstand the grading system then - you get safe and bold routes at all grades. I think it's understandable for someone to want some recommendations of routes at the safe'ish end of the spectrum. Of course, as pointed out, no routes are entirely safe. Climbing a ladder or crossing a road isn't entirely safe.

GridNorth - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to Skyfall: I put a smiley at the end to signify a humourous comment and avoid yet another UK grading debate. Naive I know.
Skyfall - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to GridNorth:

if you didn't really mean it, why say it? seemed a little unfair treatment of a reasonable question by the OP :)
GridNorth - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to Skyfall: Because I thought that this forum was a place to have a light hearted discussion similar to how a few climbers might talk down the pub. Sorry if |I have offended either you or the OP but I suggest that perhaps you should lighten up a bit.
Bulls Crack - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to GridNorth:
> (In reply to Morgan Woods) Agreed. In fact many might say that "safe" E1's/E2's are in reality HVS's. :-)

They'd be mad though
spidermonkey09 - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to JanBella: Conclusion at Shepherd's is good, wait for a dry day with a good breeze though as its bloody desperate low down when greasy. the gear takes some finding. First pitch amazing, second pitch a scramble.
Skyfall - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to spidermonkey09:

Think she's led Conclusion from her profile
JanBella - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to Skyfall: think she is he well was last time she/he/it checked :D
spidermonkey09 - on 02 Mar 2013
In reply to JanBella: Ahh damn, good spot!
ads.ukclimbing.com
Skyfall - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to JanBella:

Whoops sorry !
ablackett - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to Skyfall:
> (In reply to JanBella)
>

>
> Aphasia E2 at Sergeants Crag Slabs in Borrowdale is actually v well protected for what is essentially a slab climb if you are happy with fiddling in pro into crozzly pockets. Sustained and superb.
>

I'm not sure about that. When I was on it, (top rope) I agree that there was a lot of protection, but I wasn't sure if any of it would have held a fall. I could imagine all of the crozzly pockets just exploding, nothing to back that up with though, just a feeling.
Pagan - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to ablackett:

Some advice - keep your 'feelings' to yourself until you've actually got some experience on which to base them, especially when you're disagreeing with someone who's actually done the route in question. Otherwise you just look pretty silly.

Aphasia is very safe and top roping it is f*cking lame.
Diggler - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to ablackett:
> (In reply to Skyfall)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> I'm not sure about that. When I was on it, (top rope) I agree that there was a lot of protection, but I wasn't sure if any of it would have held a fall. I could imagine all of the crozzly pockets just exploding, nothing to back that up with though, just a feeling.

Aphasia is relatively safe as a lead.....a few pices of gear are a slight bit fiddly to place but its never too run out and you can stand around forever (well as long as you calves can cope) and place it as it comes.
BelleVedere on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to JanBella:

hey jan - E2 huh? nice one mate
Pagan - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to JanBella:

A few that haven't been mentioned yet:

Bleak How Buttress, Bleak How
Steel Band, Iron Crag
MGC, Shepherds
Banzai Pipeline, Great End Crag
Yellow Fever, Black Crag (Wrynose)
Fastburn, Flat Crags
Poker Face, Pavey
Capella, Pavey
Man of Straw, White Gill

All the above are well protected where it matters.
ablackett - on 03 Mar 2013
In reply to Pagan:
> (In reply to ablackett)
>
> Some advice - keep your 'feelings' to yourself until you've actually got some experience on which to base them, especially when you're disagreeing with someone who's actually done the route in question. Otherwise you just look pretty silly.
>
> Aphasia is very safe and top roping it is f*cking lame.

Thanks, but some advice. If everyone kept their feelings to themself there would hardly be anything on here, secondly, If you called everyone on here who has ever top roped something f*ing lame, there wouldn't be many people left walking.

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