/ NEWS: Alex Megos Onsights 9a! - Estado Critico at Siurana
Wow. I thought Ondra had already done this. Could he have a rival at last?!
How's your Spanish:
"El debate sobre la cotación sufriría una transformación en 2010. Adam Ondra rectificaba entonces su opinión anterior cuando hablaba acerca del encadenamiento de Golpe de estado 9b, una vía que añade una entrada más directa a Estado crítico y que fue el primer 9b del checo. En aquel momento, la rotura de una presa le llevó a modificar su apreciación de la dificultad, que sería de un 9a claro para Estado crítico."
Quote attributed to Ondra:
"The hold was not a resting jug, but it helped. Before Estado Critico was
more of an endurance problem, now there is a definite crux (but for
Golpe it is not the crux). Estado Critico is now significantly harder,
from 8c+ to 9a. Golpe de Estado is harder just a little. I had been
really worried about this move, but the move itself felt easier while
linking than normally while working. But I fell one more time even
higher. If Chris had had doubts about the classification, so now it’s
surely at least 9b."
Guess Ondra will just have to man up and do the first 9a+ on sight :D
This is a seriously impressive achievement, nice one to him!
However, does it not seem slightly strange that someone who took four days to redpoint a 9a and has not (I think) done a 9a+, suddenly onsights a 9a?
Not especially. The Fly in Rumney is very bouldery from what I recall reading about it in the past. Probably very sequency. I imagine this Spanish 9a is more endurance and probably 'easier' to onsight - although easy here is of course relative. Still impossible for 99% of climbers.
Besides, he's 18 the lucky bstard. Probably developing super quickly.
That does make sense to be fair, it still seems slightly odd though as he hasn't done a 9a+ or many 9a's, and the onsights one.
Especially compared to someone like Ondra who has done 9b+!
Alex Megos has been coming to(and winning)the European Youth Cup competitions at Ratho for the last few years, and is a bit of a machine - not surprised the he has the fitness, strength and onsight ability to send this route on the back of his recent form...
I remember hearing about this guy when I was in kalymnos a couple of years ago. The French guy in the shop was talking about him as though he was going to be the next big thing. He'd been onsighting multiple 8cs out there at the age of 15, and was apparently very keen to stay under the radar.
Not a bad effort.
There was a brief interview with him in last month's Rock & Ice in which he effectively dismissed 'older climbers' (in his words, older than 30!) as not being able to do hard routes. I wonder what he made of Sharma's recent success on 'La Dura Dura'!
> Not a bad effort.
As a potential global first, this was probably "not a bad effort" indeed. Not letting him off easily, are we? This is sport climbing after all...
I forgot the smiley, sorry.
Some more on the lad and his climb. Sounds humble and he's having fun. Must be the best climber then?
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