In reply to twm.bwen:
In 2012 we got involved in two rescues on the Ben , one a faller from Cascade when we were starting Comb Gully , we heard the fall & shouted up , other climbers sorted a rescue after one of our team got to the faller , person survived but I heard fairly badly injured but I head also recovered. The sound of the faller was truly awful , very , very off putting.
Two a girl who strayed too far left coming down from Coire Na Ciste in dark & fell down the cliff below the CIC Hut ( 80 foot fall on steep ground ) , we called a chopper in after finding her , after 2 hours she was evacuated , broken femur , ankle , pelvis , bad facial cuts , survived & recovered. We heard the fall , the clanking of iron went on a long time , far too long for it to anything other than a long one.
If you are climbing grades 1 to 111 I imagine you may be soloing the ones at 1/2 ? if so your risk is probably higher than if leading or seconding as much from things like falling ice.
We climbed Zero & Orion Direct this winter in very good conditions but on both occasions we got struck by falling ice but with minor injuries only. On both routes we found good ice screw protection on the day.
Others were soloing or climbed with long run outs with not much gear in .....great until they fall & take you with them.
I think its partly about being willing to decide not to climb if the conditions are not right , ie
is the ice thawing ?
is the weather worsening ?
is there too much of a build up of snow making spindrift avalanches or proper avalanches a real risk ?
does those cornices look stable ?
are you willing to say no & accept you wasted £200 on fuel , ......so what come back another day in better weather the routes are always there.
If you are on a route sometimes you also need to fail upwards , last year we climbed Hadrians Wall Direct ( but on that day also with a guide as a 3 ) & on a worsening weather day , by pitch 3 were were in heavy upwards blowing spindrift so bad that goggles ( I failed to bring mine ) would have been useful. Had the weather crapped out so badly at the start we probably would not have started.
What is the old saying :
Good judgement is the result of experience
Experience is the result of poor judgement........
On my first time on the Ben in Jan 87 as a novice after climbing Garadh ( sp ) Gully we then climbed Glovers Chimney , getting to Tower Gap in the dark my leader said he did not know the way off.......& did I know it .... er no not been here before.
We sat it out all night from 4.00pm to 8.30am in the dark & the snow fun stuff & then finished the route & came down the red burn , I went home thinking I am not coming here again......
I think if you look at the stats you will never make sense of anything , you simply have to be brutally honest with yourself.
can you lead that pitch ? , what if you fall ? what is the belay like , can it take a factor two fall ? , can you get some gear in quick to lessen the risk of a factor two fall ? , how confident are you in your partner ? what are they like under pressure ? if it all starts to go wrong are they the type to grit their teeth & tough it out type or not ? are you the tough it out type .... time to be really honest ?
I am 49 I have two children of 16 & 14 , when I ask my wife whether she is concerned about me winter climbing or Alpine Climbing she says no "because you are very cautious" I am more worried about the 400 mile drive to the Ben & perhaps with good reason given the stags wandering onto the A82 at Rannoch moor at night.
In summary I don't think you will get any meaningful figures all you can do is be cautious & be prepared not to climb if the conditions do not warrant it.