UKC

Sport Climbing Chamonix Valley (or surrounding area)

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 mikewiggs 14 May 2013
If anyone out there is in the know, about the cream of the crop of the sport climbing in the Chamonix valley, i would be very interested to hear thoughts and ideas? I'll be in the valley for 10 days mid-June, primarily for biking, but all the climbing kit is coming too, of course!

Crags with grade spreads up to 7b and importantly some good easy lines, around f4-5 for the beginners?

Thank you kindly (in advance!)
 Kid Spatula 14 May 2013
In reply to mikewiggs:

I've enjoyed Vallorcine, Barberine and Gertoz (I think). Servoz is also oddly enjoyable partly due to the awesome rock. Higher up there are some nice routes just down from the Brevent, I really enjoyed La Samone. With it's dodgy single bolt abseil...

Avoid Les Gaillands like the Plague.
 deepstar 14 May 2013
In reply to mikewiggs:
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> Crags with grade spreads up to 7b and importantly some good easy lines, around f4-5 for the beginners?
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http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2900 No 7b routes here but a very pleasant place to spend an evening,last summer there was a Pizza Van there.
 jon 14 May 2013
In reply to mikewiggs:

Barberine and Giétroz in the Vallorcine valley win hands down. Twenty minute drive from Chamonix centre up through Argentière and over the Col des Montets. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1951 Grades from 5+ > 8b but averaging 6b > 7b, single pitch and multipitch.

For the easier routes there's the Vallorcine Slab aka Rocher du Saix. It's a ten minute walk from either the campsite in Vallorcine or from Vallorcine station. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2047
 Morgan Woods 14 May 2013
In reply to jon:

What about something like La Forclaz...i seem to remember doing a nice long easy route there a long time ago and finished it off with some drinks at the refuge.
 jon 14 May 2013
In reply to Morgan Woods:

La Forclaz?
 sticks 14 May 2013
In reply to mikewiggs: Great crag in Contamines with long (11 pitches for the Yellow Gnome) easy routes and some good short stuff. Les Cheserys is also excellent for easier routes. Both are walk ins so no lift pass required. Good harder stuff by the Swiss border as mentioned before. Autoroute Balanche is a great 6c! Otherwise head to Cluses where the sport stuff is long, hard and excellent and free from the valley weather. Good luck.
OP mikewiggs 15 May 2013
In reply to mikewiggs: Thanks so much for all the info guys, great responses as usual from this brilliant source! Cheers all
 Andy DB 15 May 2013
In reply to mikewiggs: We bought this guide I think. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crag-Climbs-Chamonix-Fran%C3%A7ois-Burnier/dp/29106... Though sure there was one with an English translation. From memory Vallorcine up on the Bervant and even the crags opposite Argentia were good. We also did some of the higher routes on the Index which although bolted in places had large sections with no bolts but plentiful trad gear so might be worth taking a small rack.
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