/ NEWS: Staffordshire 'Nose' Speed Record Broken
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68230
he would have stayed for another pint but his bee's had swarmed! WTF!
Ohh, good effort
I can help you with that - they're all gritstone HVS, except Ramshaw crack, which is a bit harder.
It'd be more interested in knowing which routes required a rope. RC, by the look of it.
Certainly sounds like a fun day out. I'd be guessing TR and PW could make mincemeat of that time if this gets competitive, but perhaps time will tell.
> It'd be more interested in knowing which routes required a rope. RC, by the look of it.
Yes, I'm sure these routes are - individually - a bit of a cakewalk for these boys, still must be more than a bit scary soloing stuff like Matinee & Bachelor's Left Hand, especially when tired?
We didn't solo many, at least not ones which would be normal solos on any other day. But we still soloed Aqua, Lightning Crack, The Bulger, Rhodren and The Crank. I've never soloed the likes of Matinee, Crack of Gloom or Delstree. It's not always a lot quicker, you still need space between you and can be a little more hesitant I find.
To make the time quicker, you'd need to run/abseil between routes or go gung-ho soloing. We averaged 15 minutes per route for the first 30 routes, which includes both of us climbing, getting between routes/crags/ hydrating etc. and so were probably only spending 3-4 minutes each per route.
Phew! It's climbing, Jim,....
Tremendous, Andi. Just the Allen/Bancroft staffordshire challenge to do now, eh?
Ah yes, forgot Crack of Gloom. Though I bet that was gritstone HVS once upon a time.
>But we still soloed Aqua, Lightning Crack, The Bulger, Rhodren and The Crank
Wot, no Masochism?!
I wouldn't have fancied the likes of Matinee or Delstree much myself (though didn't Hugh Banner once cause a stir by soloing down the latter?). But Masochism, Don's Crack, Prostration and Great Zawn are all reasonable enough above flattish landings. Perhaps as you say it doesn't save that much time.
What would big Ron have done?!
For others: it's one of those challenges that looks simple on paper, but is quite hard in reality. It's no wonder there's few people who have completed this over the years. I hope others get psyched for bringing that time down further....
Who said trad climbing wasn't competitive?!
Oli Grounsell, if you're reading this, pull yer finger out.
'Others'?! C'mon, Tom, entertain us! Or do you mean you hope the thing becomes a three-way contest?!
I don't doubt it's hard, but I still doubt whether that time represents anything like the achieving of maturity.
Impressive climbing but sartorially a disappointment. The pose-off traditionally requires paisley shirts or no shirts. Must Try Harder.
Like tom and pete, we've set a time, and more than happy to let some willing suitors cut it down again.
Just look at the Valley Nose records. People thought it was a ridiculous idea in the early days. I'm looking forward to trying it again and I hope others are as it's a nice concept that it's not just about E10/E-very hard that no one has a chance on. At least 100+ people in the UK could break that record.
The Bulger is VS
I wondered how long it would take for Jon Cox to bring up his proudest achievement - his on-sight solo of Masochism LOL :o)
My personal take on it is that Ramshaw Crack shouldn't be included, it's too anomalous, it makes it "31" routes and Joe publicly admitted he aided it (I think a few points of aid might have been used on CoG too). When a route's that short and you use a sling to bypass 2/3 of it, you've not really done it, right?
This was one of the reasons we did the routes in this order, in order to establish a 30 route benchmark, but with several hours remaining on the clock (and the pub wasn't open til 4) Ramshaw Crack had to be on the cards.
I like to think I never miss a chance! I would have been quicker, but I was in a meeting.
> My personal take on it is that Ramshaw Crack shouldn't be included,
It would open it up a bit more for punters too! How long do you get for the challenge, 24hrs? I'd be happy enough to climb all this in a lifetime's visits to Staffordshire gritstone - great effort.
You could always do it with the original sling for aid. Though I'm not sure how much I'd fancy that - you definitely risk ending up dangling by one foot from the sling and your belayer taking photographs of you.
I do but my clients don't like me posting on here while I'm talking to them.
> you definitely risk ending up dangling by one foot from the sling and your belayer taking photographs of you.
And I think in my case that would definitely happen.
Isn't the upside down look de rigueur on stuff like Ramshaw Crack anyway?
Absolutely. I've only done a handful of them and tried and failed on a few others - they all live long in my memory.
Just a few of these routes in a day would put a smile on/take the smile off your face ;)
>It's stringing them together that's mentally and physically the challenge.
I can just imagine it - a bit like doing any route at Indian Creek - you start off cruising up and thinking you're a stud, you end up hanging on the gear whimpering.
And I think in my case that would definitely happen.
Sounds like a giggle, last time we went to Ramshaw it was me that got stuck upside down so I think it is your turn! Fancy a trip? ;-)
In fact, I can't believe JCM didn't solo that one as well.
I love the acronym CoG, three star belter that one.
didnt exactly do an alpine start when we tried though.
i dont think r.c should be in.brown didnt f.a the route and its nothing like the others.
>when me and Pete did it it was running with water as it was raining
Hah - "who said trad climbing's not competitive", indeed!
Apart from Teck Crack, which is only "HVS" in the jcm-esque sense of "way too hard to be E1".
congrats guys! cracking effort and great going! like you say, theyre all pretty stiff, physical routes and linking them all together is a pretty tall order, never mind trying to beat a previous time. anyone who thinks it would be easier to just solo all the routes is daft, it would take so much more mental energy you'd be too fried to complete the thing! well done guys.
How d'you reckon John Arran and Shane Ohly managed to solo 600 routes in a day, then, or Ron his hundred extremes?
effort youth... nuff said...
> Tremendous, Andi. Just the Allen/Bancroft staffordshire challenge to do now, eh?
Maybe as a warm up to the Woodward challenge?
> How d'you reckon John Arran and Shane Ohly managed to solo 600 routes in a day, then, or Ron his hundred extremes?
There are plenty of HVS's and below that are comfortable to solo on the eastern edges (where those challenges happened), I'd say that this isn't the case on the western grit!
Several of Ron's 100 were E6. I think even Eastern grit E5s are more demanding to solo than western HVSses.
You're memory is exaggerating - there were no E6s but several E5s - finishing with Ulysses or Bust being particularly impressive.
Then there's the Gibson challenge...
Not so much my memory as my typing, but yes, agreed.
I wonder how much effort it would take today's top guys to repeat the feat. Familiarity must have helped RF a lot, I'd have thought.
Well yes, true, but as Adam says, how about Ulysses or Bust or Matinee?!
(Harvest or Matinee [shudder])?!
What's the relevance of Harvest?
I have thought about trying to repeat Ron's 100, but I've probably missed my chance now. There are plenty of folk capable, but for me at least its a motivational thing - I'd prefer to tweak the list to include my own favourites and play to my strengths - as Ron would have done from his original loose plan.
None, really. Just came to mind as probably the least soloable route of its grade on the eastern edges.
> Well yes, true, but as Adam says, how about Ulysses or Bust or Matinee?!
What's the obsession with Matinee, especially for a jammeister such as yourself? I can't imagine it would cause these guys to break sweat, solo or not. I wouldn't solo it, obviously, but it's only the last move that's a problem and only then if your arms are as short as mine. Andi was telling me how many times he had soloed the Fox, which must be about five grades harder.
...and well done guys!
The Fox isn't so high up and has a better landing, though, doesn't it?
I'm just using Matinee 'cos the chap I'm replying to brought it up.
Dunno about that. I think the point is that these things are a lot more challenging all in a row.
> The Fox isn't so high up and has a better landing, though, doesn't it?
Oh, definitely. Still, it's not appealing to drop off in various stages of leg enjambment. I just think that anyone who can solo that would laugh in the face of Matinee, especially knowing the reach Andi has.
Was this a manly Western vs effete Eastern edges thing, or a manly jamming vs effete highball boulder thing?
i spent 10 years going at it,and still suffer flash backs now
50 years possibly and even then... What happened to you on the main challenge again?
PS Well done those men!
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