UKC Forums - Scottish Tremadog

Scottish Tremadog

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Trevers 15 Aug 2013

I'm heading up to Glencoe/Fort William at the weekend with some mountain crag goals in mind. However the weather looks set to derail my plans. Are there any crags in the area like Tremadog- low level, rain shadow, quick drying?

I climb up to Severe at the moment so I know options might be limited...

Simon Caldwell 15 Aug 2013

In reply to Trevers:
I clicked on this thread expecting to recommend Dunkeld http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=35 but then saw you're on the west rather than the east.
Poll Dubh perhaps? I've climbed there when the hills have been clagged in, but not when it's been raining.

Mike-W-99 15 Aug 2013

In reply to Trevers:
I'd have thought Polldubh as well. Looks windy so will suppress the midge.

jonnie3430 15 Aug 2013

In reply to Trevers:

It's a bit of a drive but Ardnamurchan is worth it and is very westerly so can escape a lot. The equivalent to Gogarth I suppose.

alan moore 15 Aug 2013

In reply to Trevers:
A Scottish Tremadoc...if only. ...
Quiver rib on Aonach dubh (sharp holds) or Great Ridge (rough rock) on Garbh Bheinn are Ok in the wet.
Poll dubh routes are generally desperate in the rain but can dry quickly in the wind.

Jamie B 15 Aug 2013

In reply to alan moore:

> A Scottish Tremadog...if only.

You've obviously never been to Neist. Dolerite joy.

CurlyStevo 15 Aug 2013

In reply to Trevers:
The weather on the Moray Firth is very well known for being better and not that far from fort william in the grand scheme of things (2 hours). I've visited Loggie Head and Cummingston they are both good but the rock quality at the later varies from safe for leading to top rope / boulder only and the guide books don't tell you which is which....

Fiend 15 Aug 2013

In reply to Trevers:

Dunkeld is a couple of hours drive at most and is a sensible alternative.

Kingussie Crag near Newtonmore is often in the rainshadow of the mountains and whilst not nearly as good as adjacent Creag Dubh does have more routes at the lower grades.

Polldubh is the nearest and most obvious option but being situated in the wettest place in Scotland on the slopes of it's highest mountain, is unlikely to avoid any rain coming in (though it avoids the clag higher up).

Ardnamurchan is a good choice if the rain is only starting to linger over the mountains.

Cummingston is closer to 3 hours from Glen Coe, Logie Head further still, although the weather is almost always better.

Simon Caldwell 15 Aug 2013

In reply to alan moore:

> A Scottish Tremadoc...if only. ...

I always find Dunkeld to be reminiscent of Tremadog. But without the cafe.

MB42 15 Aug 2013

In reply to Trevers:

Ardnamurchan is extremely lovely but don't underestimate how far it is if you want to day trip it; the road out there, particularly after Salen, is very slow. If you're staying in Glencoe the last corran ferry back is 9.20 otherwise it's an even longer trip home.

In a breeze Polldubh mostly dries pretty quick and there are trees to hide under so can work on a day of passing showers (at the moment looking a possible bet for Sunday).

AlH 16 Aug 2013

In reply to Trevers: From the looks of it saturday is going to be damp most places. At Polldubh The Gutter is a Diff that is probably VDiff or Severe in the rain (its so clean and polished that the lichen that makes mica schist so slippery in the wet is absent and is a well potected popular local wet weather alternative- 2 or 3 pitches to the big Scots Pine and 50m abseil off ). Also check out The under rated Cross 3 on Hangover Buttress. Its only a single pitch Diff but its a rising traverse above a drop with great gear and most of it is under an enormous roof and gives some sport. Sunday the drive to Dunkeld will be worthwhile if on your way south but if you have the time (and it is time consuming) the drive to Ardnamurchan is worth it for the setting and the quality of the rock out at Meall Fhir Eoin Beag (best climbing starts at VS but there are a couple of good 60m routes at the right side of the crag) are lovely. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=222599

oscaig 16 Aug 2013

In reply to Trevers: Another vote for Ardnamurchan whaich has saved rainy days in Glencoe/Fort William for me in the past. Often seems to miss the rain entirely out there and the rock and climbing are superb. A bit of a drive as has been said, but often worth it.