In reply to Ken Taylor:
There are quite a few threads on here on the subject (there are more).
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=520276
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=482175
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=412496
I can tell you from personal experience that you will climb at least as well after the op as before - but without pain!
Here's a copy/paste of my reply to someone from a recent thread:
> At first I wanted a re-surfacing but here in France they don't do it so eventually I went for a THR. It was done in Lyon on 22 November 2010. I was climbing at Buis les Baronnies six weeks later on the 8 January - with the surgeon's blessing. I was back to my regular climbing standard within another six weeks. Now I'm 100% unaware that I've got a replacement. It's absolutely fantastic. You won't regret it and you certainly won't make things worse. They will get worse if you do nothing.
> A few thoughts:
> It's very difficult to force yourself to go into a hospital and submit yourself to a fairly major (though everyday) operation when you are still relatively mobile (albeit with pain). However, having the op while your muscles are still in good nick hugely reduces the recovery time. If you wait till you can hardly walk then your muscles are going to be in a bad state and getting them back to a normal state will take months instead of weeks.
> I don't know about the UK, but I was given a type of hip that is more and more frequently used in France for active people. It's called a double mobility hip and is just about impossible to dislocate which is obviously quite important for a climber. Google 'hanche double mobilité.
> Physio is the other key to a quick recovery. It will give you back your ability to make high steps and will prevent you from limping.