/ gogarth -tides

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leon on 23 Sep 2013
i'm planning on going to gogarth but the tides don't seem kind.

the north wales guide book says you can ab in even at high tide. was thinking of doing atlantis or kalahari. is it possible to do them at high tide? if so what are you belaying oo, a ledge or hanging stance?

am i right in saying both mouse trap zawn & red wall are accessable at high tide?

any other high tide recommendations around e1/e2 that are on the sea cliffs?
AJM - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to leon:

Mousetrap and red wall are both non tidal as is yellow wall.

I've never bothered to check tides when going to Castell Helen which I guess means the small ledges and things down there are non tidal.

Failing that you could always abb to the mid height ledge and do true moments/freebird or the main pitch of north west passage or something.

Not sure about Kalahari, not done it. Think the traverse to get to the start might be a bit more tidal but that's half remembered beta from other people so may be unreliable.
Rory Shaw - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to leon: Routes to the upper tier side of the pinnacle on Main Cliff are non tidal - Gogarth at E1 is great as is resolution direct at E2, also ardvark, emulator and all the upper tier routes good
leon on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to leon:
thanks for the replies. i always fancies resolution direct but i can't jam & i hear it has a jamming pitch. my partner can't jam either.
AJM - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to leon:

Does it? I don't remember one. I can't jam either.
Jon Stewart - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to leon:
> (In reply to leon)
> thanks for the replies. i always fancies resolution direct but i can't jam & i hear it has a jamming pitch. my partner can't jam either.

Definitely no jamming pitch. Easy for E2.
leon on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to leon:
So the entry by dale in 2012:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=4299

the reason I have so far not tried this route, is a load of rubbish?
AJM - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to leon:

It certainly wouldn't be how I would describe it.

I might have popped a hand jam in once or twice in the route but I am pretty sure I would have remembered any sustained section of compulsory jamming because I would probably have fallen off.
Jon Stewart - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to leon:
> (In reply to leon)
> So the entry by dale in 2012:
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=4299
>
> the reason I have so far not tried this route, is a load of rubbish?

Certainly is. It isn't very sustained at all, most of it is easy, and it has some great juggy flakes but no real crack climbing to speak of. I did it in 3 pitches which involves a daft uncomfortable belay in the middle of the best climbing - I'd do it in 2 big pitches if I did it again.
leon on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to leon:
great, thanks jon. two big pitches it is (50m enough?)
ads.ukclimbing.com
Jon Stewart - on 23 Sep 2013
In reply to leon:
> (In reply to leon)
> great, thanks jon. two big pitches it is (50m enough?)

Just!

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