UKC

NEWS: Chris Sharma To Try Dawn Wall Project On El Capitan

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 UKC News 02 Oct 2013
Daila Ojeda and Chris Sharma enjoying a beer at the Friedrichshafen Tradeshow, 5 kb

Chris Sharma is set to join Tommy Caldwell on his attempts on the well known 'Dawn Wall' project on El Capitan. Caldwell, one of the best big wall climbers in the world, has been trying to free climb this line for the last five years.

The team for this season now stands as Tommy Caldwell, Kevin Jorgeson, Jonathan Siegrist and Chris Sharma...



Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68384
 beardy mike 02 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News: Holy crap that's exciting. Sharma gets on a big wall... surely with a team like that it's got to go...
In reply to UKC News:

This is the season? I'd have thought December was not a particular El Cap season - shows what I know.

They should ask Ondra along.

Slightly surprised no coverage yet of Mayan G-S and [sorry, some other woman I've not heard of and have forgotten the name] lowering the female Nose speed record by the best part of two hours.

jcm
 SteveoS 02 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News:

If they're allowed into the valley!
 Jackwd 02 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News: Holy mother of God...
 1poundSOCKS 02 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News: T-Star, K-Star, J-Star & C-Star...what a team!
 Offwidth 02 Oct 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Lots of very bouldery 5.14 pitches so cold improves friction presumably (I'll ask him next time I see him at facelift...you can do that there). In the various films of Tommy's efforts he's often working stuff in light snow flurries (and not the chalk variety either). Its amazingly inspiring that this is getting such an extended effort as its so much harder than any other free route on the wall and anything completely free there is a very big deal.

 tommytuffa 02 Oct 2013
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

That "some other woman" is Libby Sauter. A previous woman's record holder and one of the first women to complete the Nose/NW regular route link up in under 24hours.

http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-92913

http://www.climbing.com/news/new-female-speed-record-on-the-nose/

Also Mayan and Stanley have just set a new mixed team record of 3.30

In reply to tommytuffa:

> Also Mayan and Stanley have just set a new mixed team record of 3.30

Sean, I think, but yes.

Evidently M S-G has declared her intention to break the all-comers speed record. That would be pretty cool.

I suppose one benefit of the US gov't clusterf*ck will be that those actually on a big wall at the moment get to complete it and experience a park empty of tourists etc. That'd be pretty eerie as well.

jcm
 Ben1983 02 Oct 2013
In reply to tommytuffa:
Thanks, and to JCM. Those are seriously impressive ascents, which I can't help but rate *slightly* more newsworthy than the announcement of a climbing team alteration.
 Ben1983 02 Oct 2013
In reply to Ben1983: Apologies - I see a report appeared a while ago...
 PeterJuggler 02 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News: Does this route play to Sharma's strengths though? From what I've seen, the crux pitches on Dawn Wall are very thin and slabby, whereas Sharma prefers big moves on more positive holds on steep overhangs.
 Durbs 02 Oct 2013
In reply to PeterJuggler:

He's a great slab climber - the first crux of Dreamtime is a slab which stops alot of people.
 PeterJuggler 02 Oct 2013
In reply to Durbs: The start of the Dreamtime boulder is not what I'd call a slab, it's very overhanging.
 DaveR 02 Oct 2013
In reply to PeterJuggler:

You climb a slab to get to the overhang.
 PeterJuggler 02 Oct 2013
In reply to DaveR: Is this a joke? Dreamtime starts with a sit start on an overhang. All the videos show this clearly. Maybe you mean the Dreamcatcher sport route which does start with a slab?
In reply to PeterJuggler:

Aha - I think we're there now!

jcm
 DaveR 02 Oct 2013
In reply to PeterJuggler:

Yeah I was thinking of dreamcatcher
 Baron Weasel 02 Oct 2013
In reply to tommytuffa:
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> That "some other woman" is Libby Sauter. A previous woman's record holder and one of the first women to complete the Nose/NW regular route link up in under 24hours.
>
> http://www.elcapreport.com/content/elcap-report-92913
>
> http://www.climbing.com/news/new-female-speed-record-on-the-nose/
>
> Also Mayan and Stanley have just set a new mixed team record of 3.30

Libby was also the 1st woman to walk the Lost Arrow highline - I was there!

youtube.com/watch?v=jA3A5RQB1Lk&
 220bpm 03 Oct 2013
In reply to Offwidth: Well said. Some of the moves look outrageous, been closely watching and reading everything I can for a few years now. Truly another level!
 Michael Gordon 03 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Good video, cheers. Think Sharma will enjoy that 'sideways dyno' move, looks awesome
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