/ NEWS: FRI NIGHT VID: WCJ - A Few Hidden Classics

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UKC News - on 18 Oct 2013
WCJ Fri Night Vid, 4 kb

This week's Friday Night Video is some Peak Limestone sport climbing courtesy of Jon Clark.



Water-cum-Jolly is a stunning and beautiful valley in the Peak District, that contains some of the best and hardest sport climbing in the area. It is also home to a large variety of wildlife, which makes the dale a fantastic place to climb and walk.




Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68433
papashango - on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News:

great vid
Mick B - on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News: Excellent film.
Fraser on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Very enjoyable!
In reply to UKC News:

Very nice vid ans some great climbing too - cheers for that,


Chris
Alex@home - on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News:

was down there a few weeks ago and saw a load of signs i hadn't seen before about climbers not having a legal right of access to the crags. has this always been the case and the DWT have only just got round to putting signs up or has something changed in the last few months?
andyjjj - on 18 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Yawns. Even the music is boring!
Double Knee Bar - on 19 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News: Great vid. Great looking lines.
Bouldering Ben - on 19 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News:

Textbook "how not to use a Gri Gri" at 4:29!
Jonny2vests - on 20 Oct 2013
In reply to Bouldering Ben:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Textbook "how not to use a Gri Gri" at 4:29!

That how the vast majority of sport climbers use them, and yet we're hardly knee deep in bodies.

Nice vid, WCJ Cornice is one of the gems of Peak sport, hopefully DWT will continue to be tolerant towards us.
In reply to Jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Bouldering Ben)
> [...]
>
> That how the vast majority of sport climbers use them,

I thought it wasn't: isn't the 'now approved' method you use your right hand thumb to keep the cam pushed down and yard out the rope with your left? Then the rope can still be running under your right, so you're sort of still 'hands on the dead rope'? Need to go and check the Petzl website now! :)

> and yet we're hardly knee deep in bodies.

True dat'.

> Nice vid, WCJ Cornice is one of the gems of Peak sport, hopefully DWT will continue to be tolerant towards us.

I thought it was a fantastic film. My very very limited experiences of Peak Limestone - at lowly trad levels - have always made me think its very much not for me, but that was a super bit of film, the cutaways as well as the close ups. The Cornice in particular is an amazing formation - looks fantastic in the wide shots; like something Gaudi would have designed.

Top stuff.

AJM - on 20 Oct 2013
In reply to TobyA:

That is the "now approved" method but that's not the same as it being the most widely used.

The wcj cornice looks like an awesome piece of rock.
In reply to AJM: Fair enough. The more I use a grigri - mainly the old one on my thickish rope, the more I find no matter how I try I can't get the original method to work. It just locks as soon as you try to feed rope out - so have come to rely on the thumb-on-cam method to not ruin friends' redpoints! That seems to work fine, at least with ropes I've been using.
puppythedog on 20 Oct 2013
In reply to TobyA: I hold the cam down with my right thumb and pull out with my left hand. I am very mindful to not have my thumb on the cam when I am not immediately having to yard it out.
AJM - on 20 Oct 2013
In reply to TobyA:

By "original" do you mean the "approved" (I would have said Ethan uses the original method, but i would have also called that the thumb on cam method whereas you refer to them as different things)?

A complete side diversion, but I find that the angle you pull the live rope at and also having the dead rope nearby and neat (ie so it just feeds straight in when you need it rather than you having to drag it across the floor from the tarp with tangles in it) makes a difference as to how easy it is to yard slack through it. There's a knack to it - Ali couldn't use one belaying me for ages because it would jam as soon as fast rope was needed, but eventually it clicked for her. And of course anticipating so you are already holding the device open before the climber yanks on the rope.
jon on 20 Oct 2013
In reply to TobyA:

Well there's The official Petzl way and then there are the others. As Jonny rightly says, the ground at the bottom of crags is hardly littered with bodies - draw your own conclusions!

But to the film. I just love Derbyshire limestone (I spent three years of my life imprisoned in Cheedale...!) those routes - and more specifically, the moves - epitomise the style. I can feel the moves just watching the screen (though, for sure, I couldn't pull them off!) Simply a great little film. Music - well you either like it or you don't. I generally pre-empt it and put something on that I do like. Are you going to do others, Jon? I hope so.
In reply to AJM: The terminology is getting hopeless here "approved", "original" etc! :)

"Original" I was think of as basically right hand on the dead rope, left on the live - just like a normal belay device - not really touching the grigri itself. Just found the Petzl vid - Sharma is showing the 'original' method first, then the 'new approved' second. http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x50vsu_grigri-belaying-the-leader_sport

You can see the guy in vid's method here - holding the cam down with left hand pulling out on the live rope with the right https://twitter.com/TobyinHelsinki/status/391863575632826368 I'm sure they do more sport climbing in a month than I do in a year so if it works for them I'm not going to criticise - but I guess Petzl is saying don't do that to be on the safest side.


Anyways - that's a side point, it's a great video that I'm sure lots will enjoy.
Jonny2vests - on 20 Oct 2013
In reply to AJM:
> (In reply to TobyA)
>
>
> A complete side diversion, but I find that the angle you pull the live rope at and also having the dead rope nearby and neat (ie so it just feeds straight in when you need it rather than you having to drag it across the floor from the tarp with tangles in it) makes a difference as to how easy it is to yard slack through it.

Totally.
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Richard Hession on 20 Oct 2013
In reply to UKC News: the jump move on rumble in the jungle looks so fun! Might get the rope out next year :)

Thanks for the video JC, very inspiring.

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