UKC

Is there a correct way to load a sky hook? I'm not talking about aid climbing. I've seen a few pics of people hanging gear off them and even a lump of rock on a sling. The chances of them holding are fairly slim either way but if there is any tips out there they can at least slow you down if they were going to take a fall.

In reply to sip a cup:
Gaffer tape
J

In reply to sip a cup: I've only once fallen on one. It held until it bent open. It didn't pop until then.

In reply to David Coley:

That must have been a seriously cheap skyhook, good ones would snap before they unbent, I know, I did a series of tests on them when I worked in Safety In Mines Research.

In reply to Al Evans: interesting! Which model/make did the best in the test can you double them up.

In reply to Al Evans: black diamond

In reply to Al Evans:

What sort of loads (in kN) induced failure?

In reply to sip a cup:

Most small things can be weight using kitchen scales.

In reply to sip a cup: A bit of blue-tack on the end works quite well. Genuinely.

Obviously it would do nothing if you fell on it, but would hold the skyhook in place - which is what you want really. Also, it makes you look like you have some huge balls when you blue-tack something onto the rock to hold you.

I have also seen them weighted using a spare bit of rope, and getting a spare person to pull down on it.

In reply to sip a cup: I've got mine racked on a uber-heavy steel screwgate. And for when its really crap I have a small bunjee quickdraw and clip it to an oppositional runner works a treat much more faith in this than blue-tac!

In reply to sip a cup:

Yes, whichever way (within your self imposed ethical constraints) works best to secure a given placement. Placed into a hollow or over a flake to avoid slipping off and tied down with a bungee or rope would generally be a pretty good option.


Are they?


I work on if it holds it holds, the slowing you down thing I find generally just makes for a less controlled collision with the ground when something rips.

jk

In reply to sip a cup:
I've taped them into place in the past which can be fun on lead. Blutac is supposed to be pretty effective but adding a shedload of weight is probably more secure.

In reply to sip a cup:

I seem to remember a climbing video where someone used putty to hold one in place, from what I remember it was 2 youngish guys climbing on the coast of Scotland. 10 points for the person to guess the video so I can look it up again!

In reply to sip a cup:
Tensioned back down to the ground on a dyamic rope is by far the best way if you can.
Failing that, tensioning it to a piece just below, or make sure it's well weighted. Tape and/or blue-tack will work to stop them moving about as a last resort.
Equalise a few of them if you can, and make sure your extender is long enough that you are going to be putting a totally downwards force on them. A good skyhook at your waist may be better with a long draw rather than a dog-bone which you slump onto and pull outwards on. Sort out a directional ground anchor too if the rope angle isn't going to be optimal.

Also, look after the rock, so don't drop-test on soft/scarred rock or put hooks behind flakes that are definitely just going to rip!
hth

In reply to sip a cup:

By all means tell me to get back in my box, but isn't faffing around with skyhooks something for the near-death-experience end of the grading spectrum (or part of the get-out-of-gaol-free kit for Verdon)?

Do people seriously use skyhooks to protect ordinary routes now and do the same people really condsider that this is sound practice and a viable means of stopping a fall?

I have to say that never once have I thought, mid-route, that I was missing a skyhook. Have a missed a passing boat?

In reply to nniff: +1 to that!
I always thought that for people man/woman enough to use skyhooks, an extra-hard stare would be enough to make said hook too scared to move...

In reply to ianstevens:


Yeah, that surely has to be cheating.

In reply to The Pylon King:

Cheating who?

Should that be whom? Hmm...

In reply to BStar:

youtube.com/watch?v=EHB70d-909I&

In reply to Colin Moody:

10 Points to you Sir. I was getting confused with another video I have seen, definitely Scotland, definitely on the coast, but this is where I saw the putty being used.

In reply to sip a cup:

I watched a sky hook pop and replace itself side ways and stopped a barn door. It was awesome.

In reply to The Pylon King:

Like having a belayer?

In reply to ripper:

<like>

In reply to sip a cup:

I fell onto a BD large hook 2 weeks ago (with a daisy), it held, no change to the hook.
It was held in place with nothing, just a good placement.
Wouldnt choose to repeat it tho. They flex a bit when weighting (except for talons), so could have a bit of spring action going on.