/ UKC Fit Club 346

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grubes - on 03 Nov 2013
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motiva UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or with tional tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (345) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=567315

AJM - I see the weather is being a bitch to reduce your ability to make us jealous of all your mid week crushing. Trip away needed?
Mark Torrance - well done on averaging over 50miles on a 7 days even with a rest day
IainRUK - Well done on the race (age cat) win
Eagle River - Hopefully you did some climbing. If not why not?
Biscuit - did you get out mid week?
Nick Russell - Well done on the 7a onsight was it your first?
Ali - Well done on the 7a onsight too.
Pork pie girl - Given up for the year or are you still off back to malham?
Mbh - Thanks for doing fit club its harder than it looks been nice to have a runner do the stats
Grubes - lazy
Useful - Well done on the V2. A new belay is always useful ;)
Stevemarkperry - How was the shoulder this week
Nomics4sale - I expect you to come back with at least 3 route of 7b or harder. With at leat one 7c tried. No Excuses!
Maria85 - Nice meeting you on thursday. Did you get anything done this weekend?
Ally Smith - Good luck on careless did you get back? Are you going ground up or checking that top move on a rope?
Joughton - Did you have fun in Bristol. Get to Avon at all?
Tru - Enjoy Thailand
Exile - Looks like a nice training week managed to put training into practise?
Annak - HAve fun in the verdon but make sure you take a set of wires and some more gear ;o)
Garrouli - Get anything done in the peak?
Mattrm - did you get your week goals done?
Kevster - Shame hopefully you will come back at somepoint
Jimmykay - get much done in font?
grubes - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: STG (End of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
MTG (April 2014):
Winter Grit - 7A boulder
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man

This week's goals:
.... Climb I guess - tick 3x wall sessions

M: rest
T: rest
W: rokt 2 hours tested so new on niks new routes. I thought 6a+/6b to half height he's graded it 6a. I dogged it :-/ tried a 7a+
T: depot 3hours ish really droppy in the comp. Did okay ish climbed poorly
F: Rest
S: rest
S: rokt 1hour45 lead wall steep wall. Lead 6a to warm up and set top rope for needkraken then top roped 6b. Lead 6b the top roped 6a. Lead 6a+ top roped 6a+. Lead the "6a" again clean this time crux still felt v2. Ended the session there

Next week Goals:
Get some psyche

Strangely low on psyche but hearing of ty landmans first ascent has really got me excited for grit more than normal
Nick Russell on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
> hearing of ty landmans first ascent has really got me excited for grit

I must have missed this. What did he do?
JimmyKay - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

It's only just been reported. No-one seems to have any idea what's gone down yet.

Wow FC was quiet last week. Come on people keep the entries coming! Don't get lazy because it's gone cold and miserable out. (Maybe everyone was busy - or locked up in their house because of the 'major' storm from last week)
AJM - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Smiling buttress at curbar.
Nick Russell on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
> Nick Russell - Well done on the 7a onsight was it your first?
Yeah, first one. It's pretty easy to onsight (all the moves are exactly what they look like from the ground) but hey, got to start somewhere.

M - am Swimming (3.3km), pm Yoga
T - Core
W - Climbing at Brean with AJM. Warm-up 6c then ticked both 7a's and topdogged a 7b+ (only one problem move). In the interest of creating incremental achievements, it's the first time I've climbed 2 7's in a day.
pm swimming with Bristol North masters. A sprint set, 2.4km,worked harder than I would by myself!
T - Rest
F - am Core, pm Fingerboard. Not a great session, felt weak but I think tired may have been more the issue
S - Nothing. Would have been better off putting Friday's fingerboard session on Saturday instead.
S - Climbing at Redpoint. Got up 20 routes, mostly in the 6b-6c range, which may not sound like much, but is a new record for me.

A pretty good week. No grade push, but I had a good day at Brean and I'm feeling solid at a higher training volume than a few months ago.

October's goals
Join a masters swimming club. Sorted, just got to fill in some paperwork.
Plan some kind of structured winter training. Get a few partners on board with that. I have a very rudimentary plan up to New Year so sort of done.
Afternoon/weekend trips to Cheddar whenever the weather allows. I managed one day per week, which is pretty good with this unsettled weather.

Short-term goals (November)
Indoor: 30 routes in a session (at least 20 at 6a or above). This may go up if I manage it too easily!
Trad: One of the adventurous Cheddar E3s (Crow, Heaven and Earth Show, Ahimsa). Maybe a bit optimistic with the weather.

Medium-term goals (2013)
Sport: 7a flash. Tick: onsight Raw Deal
Sport: 7b+ pyramid So far 7/8@7a, 2/4@7a+, 1/2@7b, 0/1@7b+
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some!
Incidental: get a car. Done
Joughton on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: thanks for taking Fit Club Grubes.

Bad week in terms of training and work done, good week in terms of fun, and first 7c+ in a day!

Mon - meant to go to the wall in Bristol but when we got there I was told I was too young to climb with someone who wasn't my parent! Was tempted to bring up the fact I've climbing unsupervised for years, or maybe my trad ticklist, but I don't think it would've helped... bit annoyed at Redpoint Bristol!
Tue - chilled in Bristol then got the train home.
Wed - good bouldering session at rockover, but they hadn't put the grades up for the new problems so I'm not sure what I did...
Thurs - Halloween party
Fri - stayed at a friends in town all day then another party
Sat - slept all day! Felt terrible.
Sun - went to the tor. Arrived in pouring rain, saw Body Machine was soaked, and nearly just went home! Saw some lads on a little boulder-route called The Green Alternative which was a 7c+ with a few 8a extensions so had a play. Felt absolutely impossible first go but after about twenty tries over two hours (it's only ten moves!) with lots of different beta tried and tested it actually went! Really excited because it's my first 7c+ in a day and my first 7c+ in Britain. It's also the first very bouldery hard route I've done so obviously all the bouldering is paying off! I'm hoping that the extensions (both the second pitch of Rooster Booster and the top section of Chimes can be added on for an 8a tick) won't feel too hard after the start, supposedly around 7c.

So not much training done at all but still, I feel like I've had a good week off.

Cheers, Jake.
IainRUK - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:


m: 20 mile road run
t: am: 5 miles. pm: 7 miles 4 x 1 mile reps
w: am: 3 miles. pm: 10 miles at 6:15 pace
t: 10.5 mile road run
f: lunch: 6 miles. pm: 9 miles
s: 14 mile road and trail run
s: steady 6 mile road run
Tyler - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Looks like I cocked up last week and put last week's entry and added it to week 344! Not sure my return to Fit Club has been entirely successful as last week was one of my worst weeks for a while.

STG: Devise a structured training session for finger board and have six such sessions before my trip to Spain at the beginning of December. Start doing a kettle bell core workout I've been sent a video for.
MTG: For my (lack of) commitment to training and diet to not be such a source of mirth among my climbing buddies
LTG: To be the best climber in my village!

M: Quick trip to Boulder UK Blackburn.
T: First run for months, 6km on treadmill at 2% incline, I would have stayed on longer but The Great British Bake off appears on the overhead telly and I couldn't resist going and attacking the room service menu
W: Quick boulder at Reading CC, attempted to devise a structured training session but this ended with a split tip after some minimal dead hangs and foot on campusing. Managed a 4km tread mill run to try to justify my demolition of the room service menu.
T: Travelling
F: Headache prevented me doing anything
S: Sneaky trip to Boulder UK whilst getting the car MOT'd when I should have been entertaining my parents. .
S: Entertaining my parents.

Diet: Appauling, working away and many miles on the motorway takes its toll.
Weight: Considering the above not bad, managed to stay just below 70kg

Si dH - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
> (In reply to Nick Russell)
>

> Wow FC was quiet last week. Come on people keep the entries coming! Don't get lazy because it's gone cold and miserable out. (Maybe everyone was busy - or locked up in their house because of the 'major' storm from last week)

Sorry guys - I didn't contribute but have decided to take a few weeks/months off until I feel more psyched for training again. Got quite demotivated recently after doing lots of training and then partners/weather never coinciding such that I could try the stuff I wanted to anynway. As a result I've basically been using DIY as an excuse not to do any training or climbing [although the dining room now looks awesome! :) ]. I haven't done anything mid-week for about a month now.
On the plus side I did get to the wall twice this weekend, and felt strong bouldering yesterday. I'll come back to Fit Club when I'm feeling psyched and actually decide to do some training again - watch this space!
Cheers
Si
JimmyKay - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to Si dH:

Fair enough. At least normal people understand DIY improvements. It's hard for them to get that hanging off a door frame can be beneficial...
pork pie girl - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to Joughton: excellent work on the 7c+ ..super quick
Nick Russell on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Nice work on the 7c+, if it's only 10 moves they must all be nails hard! That is a pretty silly policy at Redpoint... I guess reeling off your trad ticklist wouldn't have been effective, but it could have been fun! It's a nice enough wall, but you didn't miss out on anything exceptional.
JimmyKay - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

M- Gorge aux Chat - Fell off the top of Rubis Sur l'oing 4 times. Around 50 attempts and trashed skin. Got in a mega downer about my lack of bouldering strength and poor tactics before and during trip. Repeated Cul De Chien to cheer myself up a bit!
T- Was going to have a rest day to let my skin recover. Ended up pulling on a goo looking 7C board style problem. Landed badly on my arse and didn't manage the problem. Was pissed off again so put my running shoes on and went for a 90min run round the forest.
W- Rocher Cannon. Did a couple of decent 7a's. Nothing hard and had an early finish to conserve skin.
T- Back to Rubis Sur. Dropped the top again another 4 times but decided only to give 8 goes. Reckon it'll go next time with fresher skin and more boulder fitness. Ended up at Roche aux Callieu next to J.A.Martin and was trying a 7A+ next to a friend who was trying Vandale 7C. Fired the 7A+ off 3rd go and had a play on the 7C. Was good fun and managed to do the second half of it but wrote the start off because it was to powerful and my skin was thin. My friend fell off the top 4 times.
F- Woke up early to get back to the 7C for my friend to send it and it was starting to rain. Got there and after drying it out and covering the top holds with a jumper my friend managed to send it and he was psyched. I decided to give it 3 real goes from sit and managed to send it on the 2nd go! Sent just as the rain really started to come down. We decided to head home early.
S- Got 4hours sleep before deciding to Parkrun on the saturday morning (Got home at 3:30am.) Was going well until I got a stitch on the third lap and bailed after about 4.2K out of 5. Disappointed but I put it down to fatigue. Did a load of core and antagonist training when I got back.
S- Ran 1mile, rest, 1 mile, rest, quick 1K.

Not the best font ticklist I've ever amassed but it was my first 7C in font. Which was completely unexpected as I've only had 2 bouldering trips since February.
JimmyKay - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to Joughton:

Too young? You're 17 and probably more experienced than most of the people coming through the doors...
mrchewy - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to Joughton: Bristol - good for drum and bass but not pushing the grades apparently.
Eagle River - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to joughton:

Nice work Jake, try something hard next time!
Joughton on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to Nick Russell: Hmm I say ten moves but there were a lot of foot-moves, and changes in body position and things. A guy at the crag estimated at least 7A+ if it were a boulder problem, and said it was harder than weedkiller (7B) but I've only ever climbed one 7A+ before and I can't do weedkiller so maybe it just suited me nicely...

Cheers for all the sympathy regarding Redpoint haha!
mbh - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:
> (In reply to Si dH)
>
> Fair enough. At least normal people understand DIY improvements. It's hard for them to get that hanging off a door frame can be beneficial...


Could you talk to my wife, and convince her that normal people go out and buy a ladder that will reach the border we cleared in the summer, the one that is on top of the 3.5 m high wall that faces the yard behind our house? It's getting very overgrown already, and all the lavenders that we bought and planted are disappearing from view. Normal people don't borrow their neighbour's ladder for ever and a day (so I claim, very unconvincingly, apparently.

You could point out that it is is only £75, and won't mean the end of Christmas as we know it.
Eagle River - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers luke.

Goals: Go to Malham and get a project.
Also - proper onsight of a 7a in Spain, Jan 2014.

Mon: indoor routes
Wed: indoor routes
Sun: indoor routes

We were going to hit malham on Sunday but the forecast was dire. They've put up a new set of routes at stockport so I've been using them for the doubles. ticked off one of the new 7bs, not quite done the other yet and had a quick play on a 7c which is do-able with some sieging.





ads.ukclimbing.com
mbh - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks for doing this grubes!

M -10.3 miles road
T - 8.1 miles trail, ending up lost in mine shaft-y waste-tip type area.
W - nothing at all
T - 11.1 miles flat trail
F - 10 miles flat trail
S - 10 miles, in the dark. Tried to go swimming but was thwarted (yay!) by a Swimming Gala. flat trail
S - 15.2 miles flat trail in the rain.

64.7 miles, 1000 m or so of ascent(apparently, I think it was less) and only 20 miles or so at less than 8 min/mile, 10 at less than 7:30, a couple at 7:00. Felt like a real plod by the end.

I have a 9 mile trail run coming up just before Christmas, the 20 mile coast path Grizzly in March, and want to have another go at the BGR in May. Hence, I probably ought to try some hills from now on, and some longer outings, if I can find the time/energy/will power.
Eagle River - on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to Eagle River:

I forgot Yoga on thurs! Was meant to be doing it Saturday too but instructor was injured.
Mark Torrance on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Not a very satisfying week. Tired and odd working patterns. Zero quality.

M: [53.3] am 4.5 miles road flat, pm 4.9 miles road flat
T: [51.1] am 4.1 miles road flat, pm 4.6 miles road flat
W: [55.9] am 4.9 miles road flat, pm 4 miles road flat
T: [43.7] -
F: [48.6] 4.9 miles road flat
S: [53.6] 15.5 miles road and paths (nice woods by Trent in Nottingham at dusk)
S: [53.4] 6 miles road, flat (sunny, slow, but met someone to chat to)
Mark Torrance on 03 Nov 2013
In reply to mbh:

Impressive week. Working more sensible hours?
stevemarkperry - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks buddy. Shoulder is holding up very well thank you. I've increased the amount of time that I spend warming up pre-climbing and have also now incorporated stretching. It seems to be working well thus far.

A good tail end of the week this week with renewed psyche for training hard. Goals are coming together and the future is looking painful ;)


Goals:

Maintain 142 lbs: ~144 lbs A bit of a rogue increase this week, will monitor this throughout this next week.

STG:
Current Focus: Climb every problem at the Very Far Skyline Boulders (The Roaches). Aim: To improve my head on high-ish grit slabs and crack-lines and to improve my slab and crack technique.
The Undercut (Churnet, 6C+/7A)
Old Sloper Problem (Churnet, 7A)
Bonus Goal: Alternative 3 SS (Churnet, pretty high roof finish, 6C)

MTG (early 2014):
Lead any WI route in Rjukan
Be competent at Scottish III by end of 2013/14 season
Get out to the Alps

VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life


This Week:

M:

T:

W:

T:

F:
1hr bouldering session // traverses, technique, woody and some head-game.

S:
Bouldering:
Warm up with (10-15) minutes cardio
Stretch for (10 minutes)
Warm up bouldering easy (V0–V2) problems (10-15 minutes)
Work single moves on boulder problems (60 minutes). Try many problems and hard (V6–V8+) individual moves.
Work entire boulder problems (V4–V8) (45 minutes). Start from the beginning every time.
Do 4-5 core strength and upper body exercises (30 minutes) (crunches, tri-dips, side planches, front planches)
Cool down and stretch (15-30 minutes)

S:
Bouldering:
Warm up cardio and stretch (25-30 minutes)
Warm up (V0–V2) bouldering (20 minutes)
Circuit 2-3 problems that are very hard. Try climb the boulder problems in a row, run between them and rest 2-3 minutes between attempts (45 minutes).
Work boulder problems (V4–V8) from the ground (30 minutes)
Cool down including exercises for opposition muscle strength.
Sankey - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: Much better week, with the weather changing think the challenge for the forseable will be making the most of the wall sessions,

M: Matrix: Working burly 6b's + fingery 6c's
T: Circuits at the Edge, didn't quite get the 6b+ one
W: Guide book checking at Haboro rocks + quick go on Alport stone traverse at dusk
T:
F:
S: Matrix, as above + got one move higher on a 7a
S:

STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)

MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working

LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession
pork pie girl - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: cheers for doing FC grubes... na not given up on malham but need to get another project going on the upper tier probably as baboo baboo is knackered now.. too much seepage and i want to be leading it .. not fiddling about trying to climb the dry bits between the seepage. will keep my eye on it though and get on it as and when i can.

looking at the routes on the upper tier doesn't inspire me very much think it looks a bit blank and i'm sulking a bit as i want to still play on the left hand side on those side pulls and undercuts.. the upper tier is going to kick my butt big time :o)

so, last week i was off work, we had to decorate the house (depressing job) the climbing and cardio went like this:

sunday.. interval training on bike in gym, core and bouldering at the uni.. working v6s ( i think .. seems so long ago now)

monday- routes at the uni.. lots of falling practise, then int training on bike.pm decorating

tuesday- turbo in garage. routes at kendal wall. not bad

wednesday- decorating. joy

thursday - turbo in garage. routes at kendal wall. better

friday- interval training on bike in gym, decoratimng til 3.30 am. double joy

saturday- decorating . pm turbo in garage

sunday- turbo in garage then bouldering at uni- v6s (just an ok session)

summary..

route sessions improved throughout the week, was tempted to go to malhma but knew i had to stick with getting my head around indoor routes again.

managed to onsight a 7a at kendal (it was soft) and did lots of leading. got shut down on a 7b+ on the steep wall .. mainly about lack of power and lack of confidence in clipping positions.

kept clipping off my right arm resulting in a very tired arm and impacting on being able to finish off routes so thursday's session was about concentrating on making more moves before clipping to be able to clip off my left arm too.

looking forward to more routes at kendal because it's ace and also getting a project going at malham

also looking forward to getting the 45 degree and 20 degree walls put up in the garage.. sometime in november.

PPG



Ally Smith on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: Thanks for the stats Grubes.

2nd week of "resting" didn't quite go to plan - got dumped again - no going back this time. I've had my fill of nut jobs (dumped by email - classy lass) and decided to vent at the Climbing Boardroom.

Details:

M - Was supposed to be yoga, but twisted ankle running downstairs and bailed
T - R&R
W - Boardroom - Bouldering and a few "DWS". Very underwhelmed by new facility; think i'll still be driving to train elsewhere. Removed large quantities of skin on fresh holds.
T - R&R
F - 100+ pull-ups in 2x5 chunks on various beastmaker holds. 3x20 wide press-ups.
S - DOMS! Abs, shoulders and pecs - ouchie ouch. 3 laps of Lee Quarry relearning how to take doubles. Grim weather - almost got blown sideways off a double.
S - Split Infinity/Parisellas. I AM WEAK! Must do better. Wine, whisky and good company to finish the weekend was a fine end to the weekend though

Luke Owens - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: Cheers grubes!

I would do a double update but my week prior to font was a stressful non-climbing mess which involved my car being in the garage for 4 days and getting loads of stuff ready for the Font trip. So I basically squeezed in 2 lunch sessions doing pull ups.

Ok so the trip... Sorry if this is long winded but you don't have to read it!

I didn't do anything remotely hard or do anything I planned on but I really enjoyed the trip (I didn't do anything harder than 6A!)

It was difficult to get on what I wanted when we had our 1 year old with us and I wanted to make sure my partner did plenty of climbing especially as she's very nervous.

Most days involved us not leaving the Gite until midday then being out until about 6pm. I'd make my girlfriend climbed what she wanted first then maybe have an hour or 2 trying to climb stuff way to hard for me towards the end of the day... It didn't really work out and felt pretty rushed.

F: Eve - Driving to Font
S: Arrived at Gite to rubbish weather felt wiped out.
S: More rain, partner not interested in climbing due to weather. Walked to show her the Cul du Chien everything was bone dry had no boots with me. Played in sand with the little one.

M: Partner didn't want to climb due to weather not looking too great so we went to Bas Cuvier. Climbed a load of Red's (~f5) felt nails. Did La Nescafe (6A+) really cool slab. Tried La Joker (7A) didn't get anywhere on it. Then proceeded to fall off the top of La Marie Rose (6A) ~20 times... Mega tired.

T: 95.2 - Not the best place for taking a 1 year old. Had planned on doing the orange circuit with my partner as it looked good in the book and easy. In reality it's a logistical nightmare with a child. Partner did some of the up problems from the circuit in the flat area we found and I tried Retour Aux Sources (7A) a few times in the sun but felt like I'd need ages on it to crack it so sacked it. Walked over to Le P'tit Toit (6B+) an incredible slopey traverse and had many rushed goes on it getting pumped and it was getting late so had to leave sans tick.

W: Elephant - Great place for the little one. Partner and I did some easy Orange and White problems. I got completely shut down on Le Surplomb de l'Éléphant (6A) dyno on the elephant boulder and felt like a punter.

Walked over to Le Surplomb de la Loupe / Le Toit du Loup (6B) Steep and juggy and couldn't get anywhere near doing it.

Went and did La Moreau (6A) 2nd go then tried La Voie Michaud (6C) and couldn't do the first move...

Walked over to Dalle à Poly (4C) basically a massive ~12m slightly over hanging juggy wall that looks like cheese! On-sighted it and was probably the best thing I did all week!

Then had a couple of goes on Le Coeur (7A) has a heart shaped hold on it! No luck though...

T: Went to Roche Aux Sabots so partner could have a go on the yellow circuit. Walked round it and she wasn't inspired and it didn't look great to be honest. Walked over to 91.1 and she liked the look of the Orange circuit there. I did 4 of them but mainly looked after the little one all day and took pictures while she enjoyed about 8 of the problems. Was psyched to see her enjoying the climbing and doing well.

Walked back to Sabots and in a rushed hour tried and didn't do:
L'Auriculaire (6A), Graviton (7A), Jet Set (7A). Then did some 5A and called it a day.

F: Partner wanted to do some work and offered to look after the little one for the day and said I should go out and get something ticked...

Drove to Cuvier to do Duroxmanie (6C) got there and it was raining, did OK on the flash but further 3 attempts I didn't get any higher then it hammered it down... Walked back to the car and no sign of it stopping. Drove to Isatis to have a look around, soaking, drove to Gorge Aux Chats couldn't find it and it was still raining so went home...

S: Went to Parc des Felin's and drove home.

S: Wiped out

I really enjoyed the trip and so did the family but I think I should of just concentrated on some easier stuff and I now know which area's are better for easier stuff for my partner and are flatter for the little one next time. I was also shocked at how crap I climbed and how weak I was...
grubes - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:
Nice Luke but you forgot the most important stat ...



How many pain au chocolat did you eat?????
grubes - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:
should also add dont be too dishearten by your font performance everyone has a rough time there. You have spent 12months climbing limestone and mainly sport.
The change to sand stone will have taken a few days by then you will of been tired.

Dont take it too hard.
grubes - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:
oh and for your next trip. For the girlfriend the blue cisruit at sabot is brilliant but can be busy I seem to remember a good problem opposite jet set. I really enjoyed the yellow circuit at 95.2.

At elephant there is a 6A on a block on its own at the front er ... this one http://bleau.info/elephant/7848.html also has a 7a version starting on the left.
Exile - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks for doing fit club grubes

In answer - no, haven't led it as head wasn't in the right place when the opportunity was there.

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!

Autumn: HP Blow Out, (E6,) or start winter climbing - whichever opportunity allows first.

This winter - VI 7

Training:

M: 45min weights
T: am - 1hr 10min fell run
W: am - 3hrs climbing - top roping Blow Out with mate and sorting gear. pm - 45 min weights
T: pm - 1hr 30min bouldering - PE traverses
F: Driving to family do
S: 30min road run
S: 1hr road run

Another steady week although not as much climbing as I would have liked. Blow Out was an interesting experience. I didn't climb it well on my first top rope Wednesday morning as I pulled off a hold and fell, so made the decision not to lead it that day. Then went on to TR it very easily twice - I'm presuming the lifting of the mental preasure contributed to this a great deal. My mate did lead it well that morning too which was superb.

Just got to get my head around potentially taking a big lob regardless of the fact that I can climb it well. On a positive note it's not a weight around my neck type feeling, more an interesting experience to be going through.

Anyway, winter may arrive soon and I can get on with that until the Spring!
grubes - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Luke Owens: Got me really excited for font now 8 weeks :)
mattrm - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Thanks for doing the stats again.

mbh - re the ladder - it's essential for a man to have his own tools. £75 for a ladder seems sensible.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st 1lbs (hovering around 12/12.1 all week)

M - Core
T - Core
W - Fingerboard
T - Rest
F - 1h bouldering @ Boulders
S - Core
S - Rest

Fitted skirting board and plastered alcove on Saturday. Fitted laminate flooring and painted skirting board on Sunday. We've just got to paint the stairs and then get carpet fitted and that's all done. Had been planning on going for a 100% month for exercise this month. But that's blown already. I'll be making a saw handle for a dovetail saw for the next two nights as well. Bouldering went well. No massive improvements, but I'm not aiming for that. Just maintenance, while the house gets finished off. Tried a load of hard stuff. Tweaked me right pinky. Going to the climbing wall seems to be a perfect place to get injured really. Next weeks session is going to be a very easy milage/technique session. I don't think that the V3 or 6b at the wall is far off tho.

Goals:

3 core - did 4
1 boulder - did 1
1 fingerboard - did 1
1 run - fail!

Same for next week.
Luke Owens - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Cheers buddy, I didn't try enough things in the 6's and too many 7A's! The limestone comment made sense too the style is mega different. I haven't bouldered much this year.

I think the main thing for me was making sure my girlfriend and the little one were happy and that meant not being able to devote much time to actually trying stuff myself. Next time we go he'll be older and walking which will be easier.

Glad it's got you psyched for Font! Enjoy it buddy!
Nick Russell on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:
Good to hear you enjoyed the font trip!

Regarding trips with a partner who's not climbing the same stuff as you, have you tried the alternate days idea? That is, agree a "my day/your day" system, rather than trying to find somewhere with something for both of you all the time. It sounds like a pretty good idea and my partner and I have decided to try it next time.
Luke Owens - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Nick Russell:

Sounds like a good idea Nick, thanks! We ended up sort of splitting the day's which wasn't ideal. Also, both of us trying to climb while watching the little one was virtually impossible.

An idea for next time for sure, hope it work's out for you guys next time!
annak on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Pretty busy week, so took it easy over the weekend. Last week before holiday now, only goal is to not get injured before I leave!

M: gym (deadlifts, benchpress)
Tu: bouldering at biscuit factory, cycle 20 miles
W: cycle 17 miles
Th: bouldering at, cycle 17 miles
F: gym (squats, benchpress)
Sa: drytooling course - not long but arms aching!
Su: rest
grubes - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Luke Owens: Luke,

Just seenn on the other channel you got pumped on le petit toit at 95.2 Is that this thing? http://www.vimeo.com/42083045
I did not find it too pumpy if you use your feet properly. But I guess if you kept throwing your self at it will keep building.
I could not work out the move round the corner to top out, did you work that bit? Any advice I want to have another go at christmas
ads.ukclimbing.com
Dandan82 - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:
So i've made a terrible start to my Fit club attendance, missed posting last week entirely! I thought I would have plenty of time, what with having a week off work, but the arrival of our new kitchen in several thousand boxes put paid to that.
That and a stinking cold really messed up any plans of continuing training last week whilst fitting the kitchen, plus i think my new desk at work is giving me RSI in my forearm, great.

Previous weeks training:
M: cardio: rower 15 mins, bike 30 mins
Stretching
T: chest: bench, flys, dips, tricep rear raise
Shoulder: smith press, upright row, front dumbell raise, 1 arm cable front raise, seated lateral raise
W: Climb: 4,4,5,6a,6a,6a+,6b,6b,6b,6b,6a+
T: nothing
F: got a cold, kitchen arrived
S: nothing
S: Climb: 5,5,5+,6a,6a,6a+,6a,6a+,6a+,6b

Last weeks training:
Nothing until Sunday: Climb: 4+,5,5,5+,6a,6a,6a+,6b,6b,6a+

The potential RSI was playing up really badly while fitting the kitchen, loads of tweaky pains but couldn't pin it down to any one specific movement or cause, but thankfully going climbing seems to not affect it at all, and even seems to ease it a little, so my own personal prescription is to climb more!
I'm back on the diet and training this week so should have a decent week to report on next time.

Oh and the kitchen looks great. :)
Luke Owens - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Can't get on vimeo in work but it's this: http://bleau.info/95.2/25.html

I almost flashed it then stupidly threw myself at it about 5 more times repeatedly due to limited time.

I was pumped by then and decided to do the end in isolation from the matched good flat hold round the corner. Throw a left heel out to the scoop then throw for the crimp with left hand, switch the left heel to a toe but slightly further left (it's not as polished there) and press with the right hand on the good hold and sort of rock over on the left foot. Get to a point of balance and go again with the left hand to a really good incut hold then easily top out.

Had another 5 more goes but just got more pumped. I was only on it about 30 minutes. It's one of the best problems I tried (should of done) on the trip.

Good luck!
grubes - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:
yea thats the one. Great problem Will definately give it a proper burn when I go there.
Luke Owens - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Do the end first for sure. Get that wired and take long rests between goes (Or do it first go!). It would be a great tick.

Also don't do what I did and train for Font by doing pullups for months.

Open hand everything and just climb on slopers for ther next 2 months! Although i'm sure you already know that!
Willi Crater - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

No training as such, but attended 5 day climbing workshop given by a top climber. Involved 5 days hard climbing on the trot - 4 days sport, 1 day bouldering. Weather was nice too!
biscuit - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to mattrm

Is this fit club or diy club ? ;-)

My top tip-though a bit late sorry- paint your skirting boards first then fit them. They'll need a bit of touching up but there's nothing worse than spending hours bent down or kneeling trying not to get paint on your flooring.
Luke Owens - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Ally Smith:
> W - Boardroom - Bouldering and a few "DWS". Very underwhelmed by new facility; think i'll still be driving to train elsewhere. Removed large quantities of skin on fresh holds.

How come you don't like the new wall buddy? I thought it was pretty good and I usually hate indoors!

Although I seem to have lost all my climbing buddies to the place already i'm sure you probably seen them all there with their 3 month passes!
grubes - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Ally Smith:
> (In reply to grubes)
> W - Boardroom - Bouldering and a few "DWS"
Just picked up on this do they have an indoors dws set up as is deep water soloing?
Luke Owens - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

It's a big overhang above the biggest foam mat i've ever seen (The mat is about 5ft tall)

At the moment it has routes from 7a and up.
Garrouli - on 04 Nov 2013
Get anything done in the peak?

Nope! Was hoping to get to the Tor, but wasn't worth the drive due to the weather. Went to Cratcliffe which is close to my parents house but it was soaking. Tried Eastwood but even wetter!!

M - Rest
T - TCA - Bouldering. Worked the green circuit. Close to a getting a few of the harder ones done, though the last moves are nasty.
W - Rest
T - TCA - More bouldering. Mainly stuff on the mothership. Tips were feeling sore.
F - Nothing
S - As mentioned above, went to Cratcliffe and Eastwood Rocks but both were minging! Ended up going to the Depot in Notts as I was visiting friends nearby. Managed the majority of the yellow curcuit and a couple of the white V6+ problems as well. Really like this wall, the setting is good and it doesn't have the ventilation problems that the Bristol walls seem to suffer from.
S - 6 mile run over Mam Tor and the ridge. Wet.

Still no outdoor climbing which is annoying. Again, hopefully get out this week to Huntsham for some Low Blow action or general bouldering.
JimmyKay - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

Font is one of those places which makes a difference if you go with someone who knows where places are - and - knows the beta of a few problems.

Sometimes it can take all of your skin and energy to work out a problem.

I also think that the 7A grade has it's own circuit in font, ranging from about v3 all the way to v9 depending on your strengths weaknesses / levels of polish and pof.

Retour aux sources is an amazing line and problem. The little roof is good but the finishing move is a bit rubbish. Although it was fun they way we were doing it as it involved an upside down hump onto the tortoise head rather than the crimpy crux round the left arête.
JimmyKay - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:

It took me days to get back into bouldering and into the font style but bare with it. It does take some getting used to. But it's so good when you have.
Luke Owens - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to JimmyKay:

Cheers Jimmy, it was a good learning experiance. Getting on some 7's when I was there give me a good view of what to aim for.

If anything it's re-ignited my psyche for bouldering.

Top effort yourself getting a 7C there!
mattrm - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to biscuit:

Tell me about it...

I really wish I'd taken photos of things before starting them, as it's not obvious how much work has gone into it all. Rough list of stuff we've done:

Stripped wallpaper in entire house
Stripped paint from all the ornate victorian woodwork (then repainted it all...)
Filled/fixed manky plaster in 3 rooms
Decorated all the rooms
Fitted a lot of skirting board
Removed understairs cupboard and turned it into an alcove
Re-shelved kitchen cupboard (it's one that's into the wall)
Completely gutted the garden, inc removing several trees

We put the skirting on the wall. As I'm lazy, I just screw it on, so I have to fill it and paint it, hence not pre-painting. So we painted it. Also it was only a small stretch of skirting board, not lots. Then we fitted the floor.

Hopefully this is part of the last push as we've just got:

Paint stairs and bannisters (little bit of sanding still to go)
Get someone in to fit carpet
Build kitchen worktop
fit a couple of carcasses and fit the worktop, getting the plumber in to do the plumbing (he's got to put a new waste in and I cba to do that).
Tru - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Lacking motivation this week after last weekends wet and muddy failed effort on Rubicon.

Mon: Nothing
Tues: 5k run
Wed: Nothing
Thurs:Climb MK
Top-roping with new climber
Attempted a few boulder problem link ups
Fri: Nothing
Sat: Nothing
Sun: 2 x 20 press up
dumbell injury prevention
Max pull ups & max hangs on fingerboard

Must try harder.
mattrm - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Tru:

> Thurs:Climb MK

Is that the Big Rock place in Milton Keynes? Or do you mean somewhere else?
AJM - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

> AJM - I see the weather is being a bitch to reduce your ability to make us jealous of all your mid week crushing. Trip away needed?

Yeah - Huntsham, which has been my solo trip staple over the summer, is in the woods and mainly faces some variation on north, so the diet of blustery showers interspersed with pouring downpours and cooling temperatures means its not drying out as fast. So I need partners more often, there's plenty of super fast drying stuff to do its just not as convenient for solo hits. A trip away - yes, definitely needed. Thankfully we move out of home in about 6 weeks now and will be on the road driving towards the sun in about 8 :)

Tuesday - tried to go to Avon to go shunting. Motorway closed. Came home and did a fingerboard session instead. Think I repeated the 3x10sec @+13kg on the beastmaker rails.

Wednesday - Brean with Nick. Warmed up on the 6c, then smashed out Global Solutions second go of the day (came close whilst sticking the draws in). Hard to judge, it felt ok in the end but then it basically took us a session to figure the boulder crux first time on it. Soft 7c? Maybe 7b+ depending how strong the average climber is? I don't know. Fun shouldery sequence either way. I'm taking the easy 7c tick for it as a nice morale boost, nominally it gets me started on overfilling the 7c layer of my 8a pyramid (and counts towards the base layer of an 8a+ pyramid at some future date!). Wasn't sure what to do next, the storm warning start was busy, so retroflashed the 2 7as Nick did and had 2 burns on Tide Rising, the 7b+. Didn't quite get the retroredpoint but good exercise.

Thursday - knackered and skin sore

Friday - Huntsham. Drove over and back in rain. Walked up and the lower boulders were the wettest I'd ever seen them. Sliced slug was mostly dry but conditions were suboptimal. Went up to the crag and repeated Under Stars is best and Bivi Groove (6B+/C?) both first go which was good. Idly thinking and had a bit of a lightbulb moment with my low blow sequence. Nipped down and tried it out and it seemed to work, avoiding the body tensiony heel release I've fallen off so many times now. Tried to dry the rest of the link as far as I could and had 2 goes but no luck, couldn't get to the redpoint crux, was having to over grip too much on the earlier section and wasn't getting enough back at the rests due to the conditions. Just need it to be dry and maybe I'd stand a chance, felt so solid on it up to the redpoint crux the last day of good conditions, and if I can get there that solidly and apply this new sequence then who knows.....

Saturday - Beacon. Spent some time on the routing roof, 12m of 70 degree over fun. Enjoyed it. Did everything up to 7a first or second go including flashing the long 6c+ from the back which was good, normally its the kind of steep where I don't really have the body awareness, it gets a bit 3D in terms of feet out to the side and heels here there and everywhere and flagging galore and the like so good to feel like I was reading it fluidly. Worked the 7a+ a bit, made it through the crux and into the 6c finishing section on my best go but didn't have the juice left to tick. Then went on roped stuff and got a bit spanked, tired from the trip to upsidedownland. Much much beer in the evening.

Sunday - many of the team enjoying beer sweats. Back to the beacon. Jumped on the 7a+ up the big lead wall and gave it a few burns. Cool holds, lots of open hand stuff, no rests. So many clips though! Pumping out making so many of them, 13 plus chains on a sub 20m wall. Eventually got it in 2 links which I was pleased with. Not used to having to stop in the middle of power endurancey ground to make clips every 3 moves! Got on some other stuff too with various degrees of success. Dropped in on Ally in the evening and had more drink. I need to detox a bit this week...

Not a bad week. Good to get global solutions done. Crossing appendages that low blow is in decent nick tomorrow afternoon. Ticking that would definitely make it look like credible progress on the base 2 levels of a hypothetical 8a+ pyramid which would be some consolation for failing to get the 8a pyramid tidied up in 2013. Hopefully Brean again in the week too, maybe a look at black snake moan (7c+), again work on overfilling that pyramid and its meant to be quite bouldery which would be good for my "go away strong" aim. Not sure on weekend plans as yet, wait and see on the weather really.
Ally Smith on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to AJM: Cheers for the beers that you left behind! 7% IPA should be good
Ally Smith on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:
> (In reply to Ally Smith)
> [...]
>
> How come you don't like the new wall buddy?

Where shall I start?

- No Fingerboard
- No campus board
- The leading is REALLY short
- No woody
- The DWS is just a gimmick
- They haven't used any screw-on foot holds
- they have a very limited selection of holds - all the hard problems are on one set of holds = monotony
AJM - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Ally Smith:

No worries - all I ask is that if you do anything too entertaining after consumption you make sure the camera is recording :)
Luke Owens - on 04 Nov 2013
In reply to Ally Smith:

Good shout, hadn't realised about the screw on foot hold thing until you said.

Apparently they're going to be building a training area, fingerboard, campus board and woody. No idea when though! Where you going to train instead?
grubes - on 05 Nov 2013
In reply to AJM:
Are you ever going back to work?
AJM - on 05 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

The van trip has been in the planning for about 18 months. I'd have been working the whole summer, that was the plan, but it's not been a good jobs market in my field. Whilst it's been a good summer to be unemployed in, I'd have preferred to be working precisely because I'm out for so mmuch of next year.
Ally Smith on 05 Nov 2013
In reply to Luke Owens:
> (In reply to Ally Smith)
>
Where you going to train instead?

Stockport mostly I guess; 15min from work office now.

Any UKC fit-clubbers keen for bouldering or routes at Stockport this evening?

Eagle River - on 05 Nov 2013
In reply to Ally Smith:

Me and biscuit are regulars along with my other climbing buddy Paul. Usually go for Mondays & Wednesdays. Email me your number and ill let you know when we're going.
Ali - on 05 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes: Thanks grubes!

M: Storm! Ran part way into work as trains not running - legs and bum killing from hill reps previous day - I need to learn to stretch more :o(
T-F: Nothing - basically a result of work overload, laptop issues, flat tyre on car and cleaning flat ready for weekend
S: Went to the Women's Climbing Symposium at the Arch - really enjoyed it, though think I got more out of the talks than the coaching. Spent an hour hanging on slopers though which is all good training.
S: Baked (again) and ate lots of bad food


Can any of the Yorkshire crew give me info on conditions up that way? Heading up with some friends for the weekend - some of us probably looking at Malham/Kilsney/Trollers (any of these climable still?) others at lower grade sport or trad if there's anything around and dry. We're based in Hubberholme for the weekend. And if anyone fancies coming out to join us, more than welcome!
AJM - on 06 Nov 2013
In reply to grubes:

Just in case anyone gives a rats ass, I've put some photos and stuff of Huntsham online on here:

http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.com

I've added it to my profile as a blog, but I don't seem to see the "recent blogposts" stuff that I see on say biscuit's profile. Anyone got any tech support to offer? Whats the exact URL you've put in to make it work for you?
Ally Smith on 06 Nov 2013
In reply to AJM: Hi Andy - you need to use the RSS feed rather than the Atom one

Try

http://travelswithrockboots.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default?alt=rss in the "edit profile" bit of UKC
AJM - on 06 Nov 2013
In reply to Ally Smith:

Thanks, that seems to have done it. I knew it would be easy :)
pork pie girl - on 06 Nov 2013
In reply to Ali: hiya Ali.. responded to your post on facebook.. i've just checked on the logbook for malham to see what's been done vert recently..what i could is that on the 2nd and 3rd November routes from rated PG through to free and even easier have bene done without any comments about poor conditions and i think tod licker (or one of those) upstairs.. but said it was grim.
grubes - on 06 Nov 2013
In reply to Ali:
Trollers will be best bet of those three for mixed/low grade sport. Hopefully midges should of died out. I think kilnsey is done for the year. Forecast says 6degress so malham sun might help you try and route climb.

Fast drying grit would probably be a better shout. But guess thats not what you are driving up for
Pagan - on 06 Nov 2013
In reply to pork pie girl:

The UKB conditions thread for the Cove (updated yesterday) reckoned everything left of Overnite and right of Something Stupid was seeping...spoke to folk who'd been at the weekend and said it was grim. It's cold and damp up here at the moment and looking at the forecast it's only going to get damper towards the back end of the week.

Personally I'll be heading indoors but if you're really determined the perma-dry Catwalk or Upper Tier stuff might be ok on Sunday (given the current forecast). I doubt fun or successful redpointing will be on the cards though.
pork pie girl - on 06 Nov 2013
In reply to Pagan: yes, i've been indoors for the alst couple of weeks with plans to do the same this week.. but wondered about going to spend some time on the upper tier on sunday.. but finding someone to get excited about that right now isn't easy!!

thanks for the detailed update.. that's really helpful
Ali - on 06 Nov 2013
In reply to pork pie girl & Pagan: Thanks guys - the forecast does look a bit grim, but as we're up there anyway, it would be at nice to at least get out on rock. Though if the temps are that low it may be a short session followed by a scuttle back to the bunkhouse for tea and cake!

PPG - there has been talk of Obsession - you're welcome to join us if we do end up anywhere on Sunday but may be weather dependant!
AJM - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to Ali:

> there has been talk of Obsession

Obsession - good moves but sharp, seem to recall it makes the rest of Malham look rounded and finger friendly by comparison.
pork pie girl - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to Ali: cheers ali.. Just injured my arm/finger this,afternoon.. Hoping it'll be ok.. But can't and shouldn't really try climbing anything other than some bumbling about indoors to see how it's feeling.. Couple of days off climbing for me in the mean time
Ali - on 07 Nov 2013
In reply to pork pie girl: Oh no! Really hope it gets better soon, and make sure you REST it lady! Get out on the bike (as long as that doesn't aggrevate it) :o)

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