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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or with tional tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (348) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=569508
Posters:
AJM
IainRUK - excellent result. Interesting that you went better going off gut feel rather than pacing yourself off the GPS - a sign you really know your own capabilities do you think, where the redline is? Hope this weekend went well.
Nick Russell - it looked like Tide Rising was really coming together for you. A solid performance on one day implies crushage on another
Joughton - good comp result! Yeah, if you can transfer that short Tor 7c+ power out onto the longer routes as you get fitter I think we can expect some great results popping up in future fit clubs
JimmyKay - good mix of training and performance in there JK. On not getting value for the wall pass - have you got any climbing trips coming up? I find that's always good motivation to start grinding out sessions on the plastic again...
biscuit - did you get back on Chiselling this week? Sounds like you've got the enthusiasm there for it, just got to pull that bouldering power back up to full throttle...
AndrewW - bad luck on the project! Have you been back on it, any progress on working around the missing hold?
Eagle River - your indoor sessions sound brutal. Nose to the grindstone brings gains though! I've been wondering reading your weekly logging whether by trying to schedule my weeks around performance days when I can get out I'm actually missing out on the longer term gains that your "brutality approach" brings. Do you have a short list yet for Malham winter fun?
Mark Torrance - what's the verdict on last Sundays run then - worth it in the end, or a strategic mistake?
mbh - doing that little bit extra to hit an arbitrary weekly goal is what fit club is all about. I've done so many extra sessions over the years because otherwise I'd have had an embarrassingly low-intensity week!
Ali - clocking up the air miles! Yeah pushing yourself, especially onsight, is so much about the head. And whilst its never fun at the time, hitting weaknesses is the way to play it for the long term. I'm hoping mileage will get mine back on form, not really pushed sport onsighting at all this year, not even maintained it since Christmas really.
Tyler - sounds like a wish not to be shamed drove a lot of your sessions this week What sort of stuff are you doing for core with the kettlebells? I always think I should do more core training, but never quite get round to it.
grubes - better this week? Sounds like conditions last weekend got the better of you a bit - you can't always win against the weather!
Nomics4sale - 10,000 hours in 10 years is 2.75 hours a day Gulp. I could spend 2.75 hours a day at the wall perhaps, but I'm sure 80% of it would involve standing about! Another adopter of the grindstone tactics down at the wall this week!
porkpiegirl - good to hear that the rehab seems to be going well
Luke Owens - good bouldering ticks at the weekend and some solid midweek training too...
Exile - good volume of power endurance going on there. I'm due to be up in the lakes in about a month and am keeping my fingers crossed that I get either weather for bouldering or for winter walking/climbing, but nowhere in the middle!
Ally Smith - sounds like your future has some 12-move madness looming large in it? You were expecting aerocap to be a weakness, how did that come out in the end?
maria85 - post holiday blues are rubbish, the best way to make them go away is to book another one, then you can slip straight into pre-holiday buildup in one smooth step.
RM199 - welcome! Might struggle for a lack of routine but you seem to be keeping a pretty good mix of stuff going despite that.
Dandan82 - hope the toothache has gone away. Pretty busy & varied week up until then!
mattrm - good DIY progress, and it sounds like Santa might have some abs of steel in his sack come christmas time...
Sankey - its amazing what you can warm up on if you know it well enough. Personally I don't like any of the traditional Malham warmups that I've tried, but that's probably just me.
leon - this sort of time of year can be a bit of a motivational sink - spring seems a long way away. Stick with it though, a hard winter on the board will lead to some of those big goals going down next year.
The Ex-Engineer - hope illness didn't wipe out your entire week!
annak - sounds like a great trip. Verdon is a very cool place...
stevemarkperry - the one time I tried Ousal Low I thought that last section was just desperate - be a big tick when it goes...!
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last week's (348) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=569508
Posters:
AJM
IainRUK - excellent result. Interesting that you went better going off gut feel rather than pacing yourself off the GPS - a sign you really know your own capabilities do you think, where the redline is? Hope this weekend went well.
Nick Russell - it looked like Tide Rising was really coming together for you. A solid performance on one day implies crushage on another
Joughton - good comp result! Yeah, if you can transfer that short Tor 7c+ power out onto the longer routes as you get fitter I think we can expect some great results popping up in future fit clubs
JimmyKay - good mix of training and performance in there JK. On not getting value for the wall pass - have you got any climbing trips coming up? I find that's always good motivation to start grinding out sessions on the plastic again...
biscuit - did you get back on Chiselling this week? Sounds like you've got the enthusiasm there for it, just got to pull that bouldering power back up to full throttle...
AndrewW - bad luck on the project! Have you been back on it, any progress on working around the missing hold?
Eagle River - your indoor sessions sound brutal. Nose to the grindstone brings gains though! I've been wondering reading your weekly logging whether by trying to schedule my weeks around performance days when I can get out I'm actually missing out on the longer term gains that your "brutality approach" brings. Do you have a short list yet for Malham winter fun?
Mark Torrance - what's the verdict on last Sundays run then - worth it in the end, or a strategic mistake?
mbh - doing that little bit extra to hit an arbitrary weekly goal is what fit club is all about. I've done so many extra sessions over the years because otherwise I'd have had an embarrassingly low-intensity week!
Ali - clocking up the air miles! Yeah pushing yourself, especially onsight, is so much about the head. And whilst its never fun at the time, hitting weaknesses is the way to play it for the long term. I'm hoping mileage will get mine back on form, not really pushed sport onsighting at all this year, not even maintained it since Christmas really.
Tyler - sounds like a wish not to be shamed drove a lot of your sessions this week What sort of stuff are you doing for core with the kettlebells? I always think I should do more core training, but never quite get round to it.
grubes - better this week? Sounds like conditions last weekend got the better of you a bit - you can't always win against the weather!
Nomics4sale - 10,000 hours in 10 years is 2.75 hours a day Gulp. I could spend 2.75 hours a day at the wall perhaps, but I'm sure 80% of it would involve standing about! Another adopter of the grindstone tactics down at the wall this week!
porkpiegirl - good to hear that the rehab seems to be going well
Luke Owens - good bouldering ticks at the weekend and some solid midweek training too...
Exile - good volume of power endurance going on there. I'm due to be up in the lakes in about a month and am keeping my fingers crossed that I get either weather for bouldering or for winter walking/climbing, but nowhere in the middle!
Ally Smith - sounds like your future has some 12-move madness looming large in it? You were expecting aerocap to be a weakness, how did that come out in the end?
maria85 - post holiday blues are rubbish, the best way to make them go away is to book another one, then you can slip straight into pre-holiday buildup in one smooth step.
RM199 - welcome! Might struggle for a lack of routine but you seem to be keeping a pretty good mix of stuff going despite that.
Dandan82 - hope the toothache has gone away. Pretty busy & varied week up until then!
mattrm - good DIY progress, and it sounds like Santa might have some abs of steel in his sack come christmas time...
Sankey - its amazing what you can warm up on if you know it well enough. Personally I don't like any of the traditional Malham warmups that I've tried, but that's probably just me.
leon - this sort of time of year can be a bit of a motivational sink - spring seems a long way away. Stick with it though, a hard winter on the board will lead to some of those big goals going down next year.
The Ex-Engineer - hope illness didn't wipe out your entire week!
annak - sounds like a great trip. Verdon is a very cool place...
stevemarkperry - the one time I tried Ousal Low I thought that last section was just desperate - be a big tick when it goes...!
In reply to AJM:
<STG>
<MTG> - 2013
<LTG>
<BHAG>
M:
T: Brean. Warmup and clips into storm warning. First go, got through crux, silly foot slip. Second go, smashed it! Boom! Nearly dropped it by fumbling with the last clip, bit nervy. Probably 7c? Didn't feel hard enough to be 7c+, the rest in the middle is too good. Got onto the variation, the 7c+/8a, and found some awesome new beta that made the crux a lot easier. Couple of good goes doing moves and links.
W:
T:
F: Brean again. Warmed up and clips into the variation. First go on it from the ground, got through the storm warning start, smashed the linking moves, and got up into and established on the second pocket on Chulilla. One hard move left. By this point the "what, I didn't expect to be here" surprise had fully caught up with me and I mucked up the sequence and fell off. Still, very promising progress, hadn't expected to be there so fast! Was feeling strong on the pocket too. Second go I didn't quite get the flake right so fell off going into the pocket, third go I fell at the same sort of point because my tips were numb.
S: Party. Drinking til 0530
S: Vegetating.
Good week, nice to get storm warning done so fast and very pleased with good progress on the variation too. Wasn't sure quite how draining it would all feel on link, answer is draining but not too draining. Feels like it could go in the time I've got left.
<STG>
- Try more E3/4s
- The Ashes <tick>
- Ames Low <tick>
- NEW GOAL - Low Blow<tick>
- NEW GOAL - Storm warning<tick - 80th guidebook Fr7>
- NEW GOAL - Storm warning variation
- Make progress on the base levels of an 8a+ pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7c, 3/4 x 7c+, 0/2 x 8a, 0/1 x 8a+)
- "real" V6/7 (power not power-stamina)
<MTG> - 2013
- Complete the 8a pyramid (currently completed 10/8 x 7b+, 6/4 x 7c, 3/2 x 7c+, 0/1 x 8a)
- 7c/+ "holiday tick" (UK route away from home and/or foreign route) - done The Ashes
- Some trad - 10x E3s, try some E4s <So far:12xE3 onsight, 3xE3 flash, 4xE4 onsight>
- Onsight mainly on or as prep for trips - more 7a+s, try to onsight/flash 7b
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations (eg Dreadnought, Big Groove, Dream/Liberator, Lubyanka, short-ish alpine rock of that sort of grade)
- E4 onsight - ticked 4
- 8a before 30
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags (currently done 7a+ at: Rodellar, Geyikbayiri)
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoints
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M:
T: Brean. Warmup and clips into storm warning. First go, got through crux, silly foot slip. Second go, smashed it! Boom! Nearly dropped it by fumbling with the last clip, bit nervy. Probably 7c? Didn't feel hard enough to be 7c+, the rest in the middle is too good. Got onto the variation, the 7c+/8a, and found some awesome new beta that made the crux a lot easier. Couple of good goes doing moves and links.
W:
T:
F: Brean again. Warmed up and clips into the variation. First go on it from the ground, got through the storm warning start, smashed the linking moves, and got up into and established on the second pocket on Chulilla. One hard move left. By this point the "what, I didn't expect to be here" surprise had fully caught up with me and I mucked up the sequence and fell off. Still, very promising progress, hadn't expected to be there so fast! Was feeling strong on the pocket too. Second go I didn't quite get the flake right so fell off going into the pocket, third go I fell at the same sort of point because my tips were numb.
S: Party. Drinking til 0530
S: Vegetating.
Good week, nice to get storm warning done so fast and very pleased with good progress on the variation too. Wasn't sure quite how draining it would all feel on link, answer is draining but not too draining. Feels like it could go in the time I've got left.
In reply to AJM:
Indeed it does, crushed it on Thursday! Cheers for the beta on that one, would probably have taken me a bit longer to figure it out for myself. You seemed to be making good progress on Storm Warning Variation, go get it!
M,T - lurgy stopped play
W - Bouldering at Redpoint. Was meant to be a light session. Don't think such a thing exists. Flashed a V4, quick ticks on several others in that range. Worked on a V5, will get it if I go back fresh.
T - Rest. Feeling pretty tired after bouldering, manflu still making itself felt.
F - Climbing at Brean. "Warmed up" on Pearl Harbour (7a), ticked Tide Rising, 7b+ and Roof of Inequity (7a+) second try.
S - Climbing at the Roaches. A good session, much better conditions than last time. Climbed Tower Face (E1 5b MA), which I'd previously backed off, and Wings of Unreason (E4 6a, though hard to grade really) with some beta.
S - 6km run (flat, 4:50/km average). Core.
I'm really chuffed to tick Tide Rising! It had been almost 6 weeks since a grade jump in sport climbing, so about time :p. That was my 3rd session, 4th redpoint, so pretty quick too. First go on Friday it felt pretty hard, harder than I remembered from last time, but I soon got used to actually trying again. I never worked out the best way to clip bolt 4, just ran it out to the post-crux jug. (I often find clipping still holds me back more than climbing, but at least they can be skipped...) A decent performance on The Roof of Inequity too, making a quick dispatch after just barely missing out on the flash attempt.
Yesterday was a really good day at the Roaches. A bit damp in the morning but the sun came out after lunch, gifting us perfect conditions. Tower Face felt about 2 grades easier than when I tried it in July, though still not E1. I'd been wanting to get on Wings for a while and it didn't disappoint, such a wild route! That dyno at the top was one of those "Turn off brain. Go!" moments. Overall, much less humbling than my last visit, though I did pay in flesh for my passage up Thrug, a VS jamming crack...
Training-wise, skipped the fingerboard, but a bouldering session can fill in for that. Lacking the indoors volume set, but the weather was too good. There'll probably be opportunity to make up for it next week.
Short-term goals (November)
Indoor: 30 routes in a session (at least 20 at 6a or above). Current best 25.
Trad: One of the multipitch Cheddar E3s (Crow, Heaven and Earth Show, Ahimsa, Brainbiter). Looking unlikely, but I did get to the Roaches which satisfies the broader goal of doing some trad.
Medium-term goals (2013)
Sport: 7a flash. Tick: onsight Raw Deal
Sport: 7b+ pyramid. So far 7/8@7a, 3/4@7a+, 1/2@7b, 1/1@7b+. Top level ticked, just got to go back to fill in the base now.
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some! 1/2 Wings of Unreason
Incidental: get a car. Done
> Nick Russell - it looked like Tide Rising was really coming together for you. A solid performance on one day implies crushage on another
Indeed it does, crushed it on Thursday! Cheers for the beta on that one, would probably have taken me a bit longer to figure it out for myself. You seemed to be making good progress on Storm Warning Variation, go get it!
M,T - lurgy stopped play
W - Bouldering at Redpoint. Was meant to be a light session. Don't think such a thing exists. Flashed a V4, quick ticks on several others in that range. Worked on a V5, will get it if I go back fresh.
T - Rest. Feeling pretty tired after bouldering, manflu still making itself felt.
F - Climbing at Brean. "Warmed up" on Pearl Harbour (7a), ticked Tide Rising, 7b+ and Roof of Inequity (7a+) second try.
S - Climbing at the Roaches. A good session, much better conditions than last time. Climbed Tower Face (E1 5b MA), which I'd previously backed off, and Wings of Unreason (E4 6a, though hard to grade really) with some beta.
S - 6km run (flat, 4:50/km average). Core.
I'm really chuffed to tick Tide Rising! It had been almost 6 weeks since a grade jump in sport climbing, so about time :p. That was my 3rd session, 4th redpoint, so pretty quick too. First go on Friday it felt pretty hard, harder than I remembered from last time, but I soon got used to actually trying again. I never worked out the best way to clip bolt 4, just ran it out to the post-crux jug. (I often find clipping still holds me back more than climbing, but at least they can be skipped...) A decent performance on The Roof of Inequity too, making a quick dispatch after just barely missing out on the flash attempt.
Yesterday was a really good day at the Roaches. A bit damp in the morning but the sun came out after lunch, gifting us perfect conditions. Tower Face felt about 2 grades easier than when I tried it in July, though still not E1. I'd been wanting to get on Wings for a while and it didn't disappoint, such a wild route! That dyno at the top was one of those "Turn off brain. Go!" moments. Overall, much less humbling than my last visit, though I did pay in flesh for my passage up Thrug, a VS jamming crack...
Training-wise, skipped the fingerboard, but a bouldering session can fill in for that. Lacking the indoors volume set, but the weather was too good. There'll probably be opportunity to make up for it next week.
Short-term goals (November)
Indoor: 30 routes in a session (at least 20 at 6a or above). Current best 25.
Trad: One of the multipitch Cheddar E3s (Crow, Heaven and Earth Show, Ahimsa, Brainbiter). Looking unlikely, but I did get to the Roaches which satisfies the broader goal of doing some trad.
Medium-term goals (2013)
Sport: 7a flash. Tick: onsight Raw Deal
Sport: 7b+ pyramid. So far 7/8@7a, 3/4@7a+, 1/2@7b, 1/1@7b+. Top level ticked, just got to go back to fill in the base now.
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some! 1/2 Wings of Unreason
Incidental: get a car. Done
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks AJM..
m: easy 4 miles
t: steady 8 miles on trails
w: 9.1 mile 6:40 pace
t: 4 miles 6:40 pace
f: easy 3 miles
s: JFk 50 miler.. 4th in 5:57.. $250 prize money.. http://www.strava.com/activities/96716689
s: easy 3 miler
very happy with
Thanks AJM..
m: easy 4 miles
t: steady 8 miles on trails
w: 9.1 mile 6:40 pace
t: 4 miles 6:40 pace
f: easy 3 miles
s: JFk 50 miler.. 4th in 5:57.. $250 prize money.. http://www.strava.com/activities/96716689
s: easy 3 miler
very happy with
In reply to AJM:
So back in the room. NO goals or ambitions, I sorta lost it with climbing to be honest but last weeks reports and those on UKB gave me a kick in the right direction.
Sat - Easy boulder just to get the fingers working. V0s mostly
Sun - Same again but added a couple of V1s
Mon - Easy stuff nut more volume
Tue - Rest
Wed - Set of 4x4s on V0s, then managed a problem graded V2/3. Seemed a bit easy to be honest. Moving quite well for a change.
Thu - Rest
Fri - Set of 4x4s on V0/1s plus a load of volume. Managed a tough for me V2 in a about 4 goes.
Sat - Rest and alcohol.
Sun - Alcohol and old mates.
Hadn't climbed for six weeks, so was as sensible and took it easy. Pleased with how the week went to be honest, kept straight armed and low on my heels which resulted in much neatness and quietness. The V2/3 thing went easily too even though I've not much finger strength left.
So back in the room. NO goals or ambitions, I sorta lost it with climbing to be honest but last weeks reports and those on UKB gave me a kick in the right direction.
Sat - Easy boulder just to get the fingers working. V0s mostly
Sun - Same again but added a couple of V1s
Mon - Easy stuff nut more volume
Tue - Rest
Wed - Set of 4x4s on V0s, then managed a problem graded V2/3. Seemed a bit easy to be honest. Moving quite well for a change.
Thu - Rest
Fri - Set of 4x4s on V0/1s plus a load of volume. Managed a tough for me V2 in a about 4 goes.
Sat - Rest and alcohol.
Sun - Alcohol and old mates.
Hadn't climbed for six weeks, so was as sensible and took it easy. Pleased with how the week went to be honest, kept straight armed and low on my heels which resulted in much neatness and quietness. The V2/3 thing went easily too even though I've not much finger strength left.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM. Nice summary.
M -
T - 6.7 m run, after work, around the industrial town where I work. New route made it interesting.
W - 5.6 m run, after work, waiting until I got home. Always a risky move.
T - 10.3 m run (alright, really an 8.8 miles run plus 2 x 0.75 m to the MOT garage and back. I am going to count them. They included a hill, and I really did run.)
F - 6.7 m run, after work, more or less as on Tuesday, but making some better route choices.
S - 17.2 miles, trail. This felt really long.
S - 15.1 miles, mostly road. I had three targets on starting this one - 13.5 miles to get to 60 for the week, 14 to move my running Eddington number up to 14, and 15 to get it one notch closer to 15. Three ticks.
So, 61.6 miles for the week, in 6 runs over 6 days, with about 1000 m ascent (ie not very hilly, given the distance.) I am massively pleased with this. A few (but not very many - this was a slow week) mile splits were in the 7:00-7:30 range, which I would like to improve, but I do seem to be able to get my plod pace to about 8:00 on the flat, and I have explored new , more interesting 6-10 mile routes around work which should make it possible to get 30 miles-ish done mid-week.
A multiplicity of targets helps me to keep going, however inconsequential they are: 5000 miles logged (tick!), my 14th run over 14 miles (tick! - but a bit pathetic really, given that I've done 130 odd 10+ miles runs), 60 miles for the week, etc. It makes for more baubles to reach out for, and more reasons to step out into the cold.
STG: 60 miles next week.
MTg: get some hill work in before the 10 mile event I have entered on 22nd December, and achieve 2500 miles for 2013 (another 270 needed)
LTG: BGR next May.
Thanks AJM. Nice summary.
M -
T - 6.7 m run, after work, around the industrial town where I work. New route made it interesting.
W - 5.6 m run, after work, waiting until I got home. Always a risky move.
T - 10.3 m run (alright, really an 8.8 miles run plus 2 x 0.75 m to the MOT garage and back. I am going to count them. They included a hill, and I really did run.)
F - 6.7 m run, after work, more or less as on Tuesday, but making some better route choices.
S - 17.2 miles, trail. This felt really long.
S - 15.1 miles, mostly road. I had three targets on starting this one - 13.5 miles to get to 60 for the week, 14 to move my running Eddington number up to 14, and 15 to get it one notch closer to 15. Three ticks.
So, 61.6 miles for the week, in 6 runs over 6 days, with about 1000 m ascent (ie not very hilly, given the distance.) I am massively pleased with this. A few (but not very many - this was a slow week) mile splits were in the 7:00-7:30 range, which I would like to improve, but I do seem to be able to get my plod pace to about 8:00 on the flat, and I have explored new , more interesting 6-10 mile routes around work which should make it possible to get 30 miles-ish done mid-week.
A multiplicity of targets helps me to keep going, however inconsequential they are: 5000 miles logged (tick!), my 14th run over 14 miles (tick! - but a bit pathetic really, given that I've done 130 odd 10+ miles runs), 60 miles for the week, etc. It makes for more baubles to reach out for, and more reasons to step out into the cold.
STG: 60 miles next week.
MTg: get some hill work in before the 10 mile event I have entered on 22nd December, and achieve 2500 miles for 2013 (another 270 needed)
LTG: BGR next May.
In reply to AJM:
Just out of interest, are any FC people (biscuit?) interested in maybe doing some climbing midweek? I'm home alone for a night or two, so wondering about going away for a few days (have a short break from Brean - no sun means cold fingers I reckon!) since it looks to be staying dry. Debating maybe a few days bouldering or something like that, Monday lunchtime to Wednesday perhaps?
Just out of interest, are any FC people (biscuit?) interested in maybe doing some climbing midweek? I'm home alone for a night or two, so wondering about going away for a few days (have a short break from Brean - no sun means cold fingers I reckon!) since it looks to be staying dry. Debating maybe a few days bouldering or something like that, Monday lunchtime to Wednesday perhaps?
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the FC summary. No progress on project due to illness. Activity last week:
M - Running 45 mins; fingerboard session.
T - Running 30 mins - fartlekking - as unpleasant as it sounds.
W, Th, F, S - nothing; struggled to walk dog (diverticulitis flare-up; damn that fartlekking!)
Sn - Feeling a bit better. A few laps on 6a+ to 6b+ outside as general endurance/power endurance training and to check how I'm feeling. No reaction as yet so a few days rest early next week and back onto project (I hope!).
Message ends.
Thanks for the FC summary. No progress on project due to illness. Activity last week:
M - Running 45 mins; fingerboard session.
T - Running 30 mins - fartlekking - as unpleasant as it sounds.
W, Th, F, S - nothing; struggled to walk dog (diverticulitis flare-up; damn that fartlekking!)
Sn - Feeling a bit better. A few laps on 6a+ to 6b+ outside as general endurance/power endurance training and to check how I'm feeling. No reaction as yet so a few days rest early next week and back onto project (I hope!).
Message ends.
In reply to IainRUK:
Jeez Iain. I find it amazing that your Strava says, 2nd best 50km time - 1 day ago. Absolutely inspiring, and I'm now following you - in a non stalker-y way?
Jeez Iain. I find it amazing that your Strava says, 2nd best 50km time - 1 day ago. Absolutely inspiring, and I'm now following you - in a non stalker-y way?
In reply to AJM:
No climbing trips coming up Andy. Want to really hammer my overdraft and credit cards for the next 6 months to make me feel financially stable enough to think about houses.... Or major holidays.
So, I've been running loads instead. And I'm really psyched for it. For those who know education well - you'll understand how I felt on Monday night when we received the Ofsted call on Monday morning. Got observed(second time in a year at different schools) on Tuesday morning and it went really well again. Wish they would stop following me around. Anyway - even with a mega stressed out and tiring week where I clocked up a grand total of 18 hours of sleep in 4 nights. Weds night = German market (beeeer) and Thurs night = date night (beeeeer).
M- Zero. Ofsted call.
T- Ofsted observation. Followed by more planning. Decided to go for a run at 23:15. 5miles (6.37min/mile)
W- Nothing (beer)
T- Track session. Felt really good despite lack of sleep. 6 x 1km with 2min recovery. Averaging 3:30K's.
F- Nothing - SLEEP!!!!
S- Parkrun. 18:47 5k. Getting there. 47 seconds to go. Creeping down every week.
S- 7.3mile hilly run with 5k of canal.... (6.45min/mile)
No climbing trips coming up Andy. Want to really hammer my overdraft and credit cards for the next 6 months to make me feel financially stable enough to think about houses.... Or major holidays.
So, I've been running loads instead. And I'm really psyched for it. For those who know education well - you'll understand how I felt on Monday night when we received the Ofsted call on Monday morning. Got observed(second time in a year at different schools) on Tuesday morning and it went really well again. Wish they would stop following me around. Anyway - even with a mega stressed out and tiring week where I clocked up a grand total of 18 hours of sleep in 4 nights. Weds night = German market (beeeer) and Thurs night = date night (beeeeer).
M- Zero. Ofsted call.
T- Ofsted observation. Followed by more planning. Decided to go for a run at 23:15. 5miles (6.37min/mile)
W- Nothing (beer)
T- Track session. Felt really good despite lack of sleep. 6 x 1km with 2min recovery. Averaging 3:30K's.
F- Nothing - SLEEP!!!!
S- Parkrun. 18:47 5k. Getting there. 47 seconds to go. Creeping down every week.
S- 7.3mile hilly run with 5k of canal.... (6.45min/mile)
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for doing fit club AJM.
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!
Autumn: HP Blow Out, (E6,) or start winter climbing - whichever opportunity allows first.
This winter - VI 7
Training:
M: pm - 45min fell run & 30min general weights
T: pm - 1hr 30min PE traverses at wall.
W: Rest
T: pm - 1hr 30 min PE traverses at wall.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: am - 2hrs bouldering pm - 50min fell run
Again, not a bad week. Two hours on Langdale Boulders this morning was good. I don't do an awful lot of bouldering so it felt quite novel. Got a little further on 'The overhang' V5, (it goes through an overhang!) than last time and very nearly toped out on 'The Pocket' V5, (it uses a pocket!) - think I'll be able to get it next time. (Great problems but not the most imaginative names.)
Thanks for doing fit club AJM.
Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6
Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!
Autumn: HP Blow Out, (E6,) or start winter climbing - whichever opportunity allows first.
This winter - VI 7
Training:
M: pm - 45min fell run & 30min general weights
T: pm - 1hr 30min PE traverses at wall.
W: Rest
T: pm - 1hr 30 min PE traverses at wall.
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: am - 2hrs bouldering pm - 50min fell run
Again, not a bad week. Two hours on Langdale Boulders this morning was good. I don't do an awful lot of bouldering so it felt quite novel. Got a little further on 'The overhang' V5, (it goes through an overhang!) than last time and very nearly toped out on 'The Pocket' V5, (it uses a pocket!) - think I'll be able to get it next time. (Great problems but not the most imaginative names.)
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. Good effort doing the stats after the party.
Good training week not great climbing week.
Monday - training day at AW.
Bouldering for an hr. Flashed all the v3s and 4s apart from one.
Redpointing - new high points on a 7a+ and 7b. Still finding indoors hard.
4x4's - ended up doing these on 6b+ and still failing. V hard and pumpy.
Beastmaker - a few repeaters on big holds.
Push ups and sit ups.
OWCH !
Tuesday -Raven Tor. Cold. Too cold. Ran up a 7c on top rope. Same story as Chiselling. Climb to crux. Crux too hard. Climb to top.
Bouldered around after to keep warm and do something. Did a couple of easier problems then tried a 7A 2 move dyno thing. Got the first move and the set up but couldn't make the dyno. I think the strength is still there but my timing and coordination are not.
Wednesday - AW. Kept getting told off by teacher for talking too much. Was pretty wasted so just went for trying the 7a+ and b again. New high point on the 7a+ again and then I finally climbed through the crux on the 7b. Only to fail a bit further on. Next go I got the crux again but then fluffed my sequence whilst feeling good. next time.
Messed around repeating routes and getting more tired.
Night out on friday scratched out Saturday and was away last night and today.
Got a couple of good long runs in too.
This week hopefully AW Mon, climb/boulder outside Tuesday then off to Nice for a non climbing break for a few days on Wednesday. Taking my trainers and running kit.
Goals are to get the 7a+ and 7b if I go to AW. If I don't go on mon I'll go to boulder uk to get strong.
Cheers Andy. Good effort doing the stats after the party.
Good training week not great climbing week.
Monday - training day at AW.
Bouldering for an hr. Flashed all the v3s and 4s apart from one.
Redpointing - new high points on a 7a+ and 7b. Still finding indoors hard.
4x4's - ended up doing these on 6b+ and still failing. V hard and pumpy.
Beastmaker - a few repeaters on big holds.
Push ups and sit ups.
OWCH !
Tuesday -Raven Tor. Cold. Too cold. Ran up a 7c on top rope. Same story as Chiselling. Climb to crux. Crux too hard. Climb to top.
Bouldered around after to keep warm and do something. Did a couple of easier problems then tried a 7A 2 move dyno thing. Got the first move and the set up but couldn't make the dyno. I think the strength is still there but my timing and coordination are not.
Wednesday - AW. Kept getting told off by teacher for talking too much. Was pretty wasted so just went for trying the 7a+ and b again. New high point on the 7a+ again and then I finally climbed through the crux on the 7b. Only to fail a bit further on. Next go I got the crux again but then fluffed my sequence whilst feeling good. next time.
Messed around repeating routes and getting more tired.
Night out on friday scratched out Saturday and was away last night and today.
Got a couple of good long runs in too.
This week hopefully AW Mon, climb/boulder outside Tuesday then off to Nice for a non climbing break for a few days on Wednesday. Taking my trainers and running kit.
Goals are to get the 7a+ and 7b if I go to AW. If I don't go on mon I'll go to boulder uk to get strong.
In reply to biscuit:
I cheated and wrote them in the week! The copying and pasting was still pretty tough though. I've been a bit of a zombie all day. If Ally hadn't produced fried breakfast I'm not sure I'd have made it...
Which 7c? I tried one with Si in September, obscene toilet, but never managed to actually finish it off.
I cheated and wrote them in the week! The copying and pasting was still pretty tough though. I've been a bit of a zombie all day. If Ally hadn't produced fried breakfast I'm not sure I'd have made it...
Which 7c? I tried one with Si in September, obscene toilet, but never managed to actually finish it off.
In reply to Exile:
Once you do the pocket you'll do it every time. It's just a postional thing. I seem to remember pushing down on something with left hand. Years ago now so may be whack beta.
The overhang is all about the top out. Really commit to getting foot up high and use momentum. Feels scary.
Once you do the pocket you'll do it every time. It's just a postional thing. I seem to remember pushing down on something with left hand. Years ago now so may be whack beta.
The overhang is all about the top out. Really commit to getting foot up high and use momentum. Feels scary.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy, Malham shortlist has been decided:
Goals (Malham over winter): New Aged traveler for upper tier and Raindogs for catwalk.
Mon: indoor routes, getting the intensity right now for indoors. Doubling up on routes, mostly 7b or harder, dropping down to 7a/7a+ later on. End up doing about 12 routes 7a or harder (mostly not topping out, that'd defeat the objective). Think I found 5 positions to clip from for the 7c, others seem impossible.
Wed: Team fitclub at the wall! Top roped the 7c clean, didn't get on the lead though. More doubles at high intensity, very little topping out. Had endless fun berating Nomics and biscuit for spending more time talking than climbing.
Thurs: Yoga
Friday: new ashtanga yoga class, similar to the vinyasa stuff I do thursday but a bit more formal and I was beasted afterwards.
Sat: Malham. Cold and sunny, perfect. Most of the catwalk was wet so we went to the upper tier. Got some good beta for New Aged Traveler. First time I've been on it. climbed through the crux section cleanly on my second go up so I'm confident I can do the route as there isn't much else really difficult, just a bit sequency and thin after that. No excuse to not get on lead next session.
Thanks Andy, Malham shortlist has been decided:
Goals (Malham over winter): New Aged traveler for upper tier and Raindogs for catwalk.
Mon: indoor routes, getting the intensity right now for indoors. Doubling up on routes, mostly 7b or harder, dropping down to 7a/7a+ later on. End up doing about 12 routes 7a or harder (mostly not topping out, that'd defeat the objective). Think I found 5 positions to clip from for the 7c, others seem impossible.
Wed: Team fitclub at the wall! Top roped the 7c clean, didn't get on the lead though. More doubles at high intensity, very little topping out. Had endless fun berating Nomics and biscuit for spending more time talking than climbing.
Thurs: Yoga
Friday: new ashtanga yoga class, similar to the vinyasa stuff I do thursday but a bit more formal and I was beasted afterwards.
Sat: Malham. Cold and sunny, perfect. Most of the catwalk was wet so we went to the upper tier. Got some good beta for New Aged Traveler. First time I've been on it. climbed through the crux section cleanly on my second go up so I'm confident I can do the route as there isn't much else really difficult, just a bit sequency and thin after that. No excuse to not get on lead next session.
In reply to AJM:
Right hand side. Can't remember the name. I was too cold to take my gloves off and open the guide. Assuming we got the correct route. It was quite complicated.
I presumed all the holds would be tiny but was quite pleasantly surprised. The crux was bloody hard though. 2 opposing thumb presses and non existent feet.
Right hand side. Can't remember the name. I was too cold to take my gloves off and open the guide. Assuming we got the correct route. It was quite complicated.
I presumed all the holds would be tiny but was quite pleasantly surprised. The crux was bloody hard though. 2 opposing thumb presses and non existent feet.
In reply to AJM:
Hi all,
Signing back up to try to keep focused if that's okay! Quiet week to avoid making very minor ankle injury worse.
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Campus, worked shouldery problems for a bit, pullups, pressups. Realised at the end of the session that I'd twisted my ankle.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Campus, offset pullups, pressups.
Sat - Family stuff.
Sun - Family stuff.
Hi all,
Signing back up to try to keep focused if that's okay! Quiet week to avoid making very minor ankle injury worse.
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Campus, worked shouldery problems for a bit, pullups, pressups. Realised at the end of the session that I'd twisted my ankle.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Campus, offset pullups, pressups.
Sat - Family stuff.
Sun - Family stuff.
In reply to mrchewy:
Good to see you back, mate!
I'll probably try to update mine, too... too much going on away from climbing :/
Good to see you back, mate!
I'll probably try to update mine, too... too much going on away from climbing :/
In reply to AJM:
Square brackets = rolling 7 day total
M: [42.5] -
T: [33.5] -
W: [42.5] am 6 miles road, pm 3 miles road
T: [50.3] 13.8 miles offroad flat
F: [52] 6.5 miles road, hillyish, 7:30 m/m
S: [51.9] 11 with 40 minutes mudddy and short-sharp-hilly intervals
S: [48.8] 8.5 miles three times round a cold, dark lake in Norway
Assorted lifestuff got in the way on Monday and Tuesday. Bum still sore and when tired (like today) this affects my stride. Which will have knock-on effects, I shouldn't wonder. I might have to resort to doing some stretching. I don't like stretching. I really don't like stretching. My body bends in just a few highly specialised ways that permit running, sitting and, at a pinch, loading the dishwasher. All other movement is outside of spec. and probably invalidates warranty.
Square brackets = rolling 7 day total
M: [42.5] -
T: [33.5] -
W: [42.5] am 6 miles road, pm 3 miles road
T: [50.3] 13.8 miles offroad flat
F: [52] 6.5 miles road, hillyish, 7:30 m/m
S: [51.9] 11 with 40 minutes mudddy and short-sharp-hilly intervals
S: [48.8] 8.5 miles three times round a cold, dark lake in Norway
Assorted lifestuff got in the way on Monday and Tuesday. Bum still sore and when tired (like today) this affects my stride. Which will have knock-on effects, I shouldn't wonder. I might have to resort to doing some stretching. I don't like stretching. I really don't like stretching. My body bends in just a few highly specialised ways that permit running, sitting and, at a pinch, loading the dishwasher. All other movement is outside of spec. and probably invalidates warranty.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Forgot to say I also had a boulder session today and a core session. Managed to flash 3 problems from the v6-8 circuit. I asked Ste and he reckoned they weren't soft. Which surprised me. Didn't think I was climbing very well at the moment.
Core was just sit ups and planks.
Forgot to say I also had a boulder session today and a core session. Managed to flash 3 problems from the v6-8 circuit. I asked Ste and he reckoned they weren't soft. Which surprised me. Didn't think I was climbing very well at the moment.
Core was just sit ups and planks.
In reply to AJM:
STG: Devise a structured training session for finger board and have six such sessions before my trip to Spain at the beginning of December.
MTG: For my (lack of) commitment to training and diet to not be such a source of mirth among my climbing buddies
LTG: To be the best climber in the village
M: Kettlebell workout
T: Early start to Birmingham so too knackered to do anything
W: Back from Birmingham in time to join the UKC Fit Club massive, medium session
T: MCC shortish routes session but finished off with some bouldering so left knackered
F: Bouldering at Blackburn, a session only notable fro the fact I went and thought I'd do anything other than flounder. A few middle-two dead hangs in readiness for Margalef
S: First part of plan worked in that I bought some new running shoes, second (go for run) and third (Kettlebell workout) parts of plan were substituted with a visit to cinema
S: Medium routes session at Stockport, I was awful. Finished with 4x4 middle-two dead hangs as penance.
Diet: Only one room service transgression this week, felt I deserved my McDonalds pig out on Thursday. Weekend was spent on visit to Lincoln, cooked breakfast each day set the tone....
Weight: Haven't dared check
Injuries: Swollen middle finger on RH
> sounds like a wish not to be shamed drove a lot of your sessions this week
Thats what drives most things I do!> What sort of stuff are you doing for core with the kettlebells?
I've been given some Kettleworx videos which last about 26 minutes. I think I should do it every day, I find it hard but I don't ache next day so I'd say it's the right intensitySTG: Devise a structured training session for finger board and have six such sessions before my trip to Spain at the beginning of December.
MTG: For my (lack of) commitment to training and diet to not be such a source of mirth among my climbing buddies
LTG: To be the best climber in the village
M: Kettlebell workout
T: Early start to Birmingham so too knackered to do anything
W: Back from Birmingham in time to join the UKC Fit Club massive, medium session
T: MCC shortish routes session but finished off with some bouldering so left knackered
F: Bouldering at Blackburn, a session only notable fro the fact I went and thought I'd do anything other than flounder. A few middle-two dead hangs in readiness for Margalef
S: First part of plan worked in that I bought some new running shoes, second (go for run) and third (Kettlebell workout) parts of plan were substituted with a visit to cinema
S: Medium routes session at Stockport, I was awful. Finished with 4x4 middle-two dead hangs as penance.
Diet: Only one room service transgression this week, felt I deserved my McDonalds pig out on Thursday. Weekend was spent on visit to Lincoln, cooked breakfast each day set the tone....
Weight: Haven't dared check
Injuries: Swollen middle finger on RH
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april - Wheels in motion kind of for two trips maybe or 1 and ceuse
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man
This week's goals:
Not another shit week - As far as training is concerned pretty poor but I got a new tick
M: rest
T: rest
W: rest
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Almscliff. Perfect conditions! warmed up. then to flying arete
Attempt 1 fall off at top out.
2 miss pocket
3 start to rock over foot slip take the fall with hips over the lip
4 Boom! Tick! rock out. sit on top. Stay there for 5 mins soaking in the day still only morning cant be much later than 10.30 there is a few people making there way up from the cars I just sit there satified and relax. Job done
I rest for 30-40 mins then try crucifix low cant get heel right. Try crucific arete jam not feeling good skin loss from FA not helping. Show someont my sequence for crucifix.
Spot mate for a bit then decide to try dolphin belly slap.
Trying a roof feels alien. First go crip feels shit second go crimp is good make slap but heel does not stick. next go hell sticks eye up move out of the roof.
More goes when fresher that problem may be a goer.
S: Tried to go to burbage but un forecast rain stops play end up at the works on the "5+" circuit (most felt 6B). did a wasp (6C circuit I think).
went home did house work. Relaxed
Next week Goals:
Not sure what to do next?
Nice to get FA done finally felt easy the time I did it.
> grubes - better this week? Sounds like conditions last weekend got the better of you a bit - you can't always win against the weather!
Thanks AJM
STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april - Wheels in motion kind of for two trips maybe or 1 and ceuse
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man
This week's goals:
Not another shit week - As far as training is concerned pretty poor but I got a new tick
M: rest
T: rest
W: rest
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Almscliff. Perfect conditions! warmed up. then to flying arete
Attempt 1 fall off at top out.
2 miss pocket
3 start to rock over foot slip take the fall with hips over the lip
4 Boom! Tick! rock out. sit on top. Stay there for 5 mins soaking in the day still only morning cant be much later than 10.30 there is a few people making there way up from the cars I just sit there satified and relax. Job done
I rest for 30-40 mins then try crucifix low cant get heel right. Try crucific arete jam not feeling good skin loss from FA not helping. Show someont my sequence for crucifix.
Spot mate for a bit then decide to try dolphin belly slap.
Trying a roof feels alien. First go crip feels shit second go crimp is good make slap but heel does not stick. next go hell sticks eye up move out of the roof.
More goes when fresher that problem may be a goer.
S: Tried to go to burbage but un forecast rain stops play end up at the works on the "5+" circuit (most felt 6B). did a wasp (6C circuit I think).
went home did house work. Relaxed
Next week Goals:
Not sure what to do next?
Nice to get FA done finally felt easy the time I did it.
In reply to grubes:
Well done on Flying Arete - will we see a re-make of the Benny Hill-esque video with "Editors highlights - 30 seconds additional bonus footage"?
Well done on Flying Arete - will we see a re-make of the Benny Hill-esque video with "Editors highlights - 30 seconds additional bonus footage"?
In reply to Ally Smith:
sorry did not take the camera. I may repeat it for the camera at some point ...
sorry did not take the camera. I may repeat it for the camera at some point ...
In reply to pork pie girl:
thanks for doing FC this week AJM
last week..
rest day on wednesday
5x interval training sessions on turbo in garage or in gym
1x hill run up whernside
2x weight training sessions
4x core sessions (added onto weight sessions as always)
2x easy bouldering sessions for wrist/hand/arm injury.. (more a tweak in wrist now)
2x routes sessions at kendal.. thursday.. rubbish because of injury (could only crimp and even struggled on steep juggy stuff but still enjoyed myself and got quite a bit done) sunday.. better, wrist only tweaked twice on wide (but vey positive) pinch. endurance needs a lot of work as does power. great sessions though with nomics and paul the retired police man
2x DI effing Y sessions
1x eating crap session (one full pizza and one full average size bar of galaxy wolfed down)
thanks for doing FC this week AJM
last week..
rest day on wednesday
5x interval training sessions on turbo in garage or in gym
1x hill run up whernside
2x weight training sessions
4x core sessions (added onto weight sessions as always)
2x easy bouldering sessions for wrist/hand/arm injury.. (more a tweak in wrist now)
2x routes sessions at kendal.. thursday.. rubbish because of injury (could only crimp and even struggled on steep juggy stuff but still enjoyed myself and got quite a bit done) sunday.. better, wrist only tweaked twice on wide (but vey positive) pinch. endurance needs a lot of work as does power. great sessions though with nomics and paul the retired police man
2x DI effing Y sessions
1x eating crap session (one full pizza and one full average size bar of galaxy wolfed down)
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM, the toothache has subsided, my dentist shaved a bit of tooth off to ease pressure and it seems to have worked, still feel like I have been punched in the jaw though.
Decided I need some short term goals, aside from just bumping up an indoor grade per week, so I pulled these out of thin air:
Tick 7a indoor clean before December (should be pretty straight forward)
Find time to get outside before the end of the year (could be more tricky!)
M: AARGH my tooth!
T: Climb 6a,6a+,6b,6b+,6b,6b+,6c,6c,6c
W: Chest - bench, incline flys, dumbell press, dips, cable tricep pull down
Back - Chin ups with side to side, frenchies
Stretch - legs and hips
T: Shoulder - front barbell raise, arnold press, bent over dumbell lateral raise, front fly, front cable raise, cable lateral raise
Core: L hangs, knee raise
F: Rest, painted dining room and living room
S: Rest, various DIY
S: Climb - 5+,6a,6a,6a+,6c,6a+,6c,6c,6c+,6a+
Another positive week, almost all my weights in the gym are increasing and the shoulder exercises are feeling more and more solid, still a way to go though.
I did Arnold press on both arms with 5kg dumbells which was at the limit of my left shoulder, I tried a 15kg on the right shoulder and lifted it pretty easily so there is still a lot of catching up to do!
Midweek climb was awesome, I did a couple of benchmark routes that felt hard the last few weeks and just walked up them, even the 6c that I fell twice on last week went clean and felt steady and pretty easy. I know that doing a route for the second/third/fourth time is always going to make it easier than the first time but still, the improvement was way beyond just familiarity with the route.
I'm feeling a bit shamed by FC'ers talking about 20,25,30 routes in a session, I thought I was doing well with 10! how do you fit that in, I just dont have the time! (or stamina!)
That's it for this week, starting on fingerboard training next week, time to up the intensity!
Thanks AJM, the toothache has subsided, my dentist shaved a bit of tooth off to ease pressure and it seems to have worked, still feel like I have been punched in the jaw though.
Decided I need some short term goals, aside from just bumping up an indoor grade per week, so I pulled these out of thin air:
Tick 7a indoor clean before December (should be pretty straight forward)
Find time to get outside before the end of the year (could be more tricky!)
M: AARGH my tooth!
T: Climb 6a,6a+,6b,6b+,6b,6b+,6c,6c,6c
W: Chest - bench, incline flys, dumbell press, dips, cable tricep pull down
Back - Chin ups with side to side, frenchies
Stretch - legs and hips
T: Shoulder - front barbell raise, arnold press, bent over dumbell lateral raise, front fly, front cable raise, cable lateral raise
Core: L hangs, knee raise
F: Rest, painted dining room and living room
S: Rest, various DIY
S: Climb - 5+,6a,6a,6a+,6c,6a+,6c,6c,6c+,6a+
Another positive week, almost all my weights in the gym are increasing and the shoulder exercises are feeling more and more solid, still a way to go though.
I did Arnold press on both arms with 5kg dumbells which was at the limit of my left shoulder, I tried a 15kg on the right shoulder and lifted it pretty easily so there is still a lot of catching up to do!
Midweek climb was awesome, I did a couple of benchmark routes that felt hard the last few weeks and just walked up them, even the 6c that I fell twice on last week went clean and felt steady and pretty easy. I know that doing a route for the second/third/fourth time is always going to make it easier than the first time but still, the improvement was way beyond just familiarity with the route.
I'm feeling a bit shamed by FC'ers talking about 20,25,30 routes in a session, I thought I was doing well with 10! how do you fit that in, I just dont have the time! (or stamina!)
That's it for this week, starting on fingerboard training next week, time to up the intensity!
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM. If the weather's good in the next few weeks I'd be up for midweek days at Pembroke or somewhere warm. Email me if you're interested.
STG: V6 at BUK, 7b RP indoors
MTG: 7b+ at Kilnsey (Frankie).
LTG: trad
Mon: Hill reps Whalley Nab
Tues: nowt
Weds: Stockport with the massive. Tried hard on a 7b twice and made some progress. Keen to crack on with it this week. Got told off by the 2nd best climber in the village....
Thurs: 30km on road bike. Last 10 with a flat tyre. Couldn't get the bladdy tyre off to sort it.
Fri: Kendal wall. Mileage, nowt specatular.
Sat: 19km trail run, 1,070m ascent, round Helm crag and Easedale.
Sun: Kendal wall with PPG and the ex-copper. Good sesh, some quality mega pumped laps at the end.
Sort of getting some psyche for indoor climbing. Got two 7b projects on the go, both of which are hard and reachy.
Thanks AJM. If the weather's good in the next few weeks I'd be up for midweek days at Pembroke or somewhere warm. Email me if you're interested.
STG: V6 at BUK, 7b RP indoors
MTG: 7b+ at Kilnsey (Frankie).
LTG: trad
Mon: Hill reps Whalley Nab
Tues: nowt
Weds: Stockport with the massive. Tried hard on a 7b twice and made some progress. Keen to crack on with it this week. Got told off by the 2nd best climber in the village....
Thurs: 30km on road bike. Last 10 with a flat tyre. Couldn't get the bladdy tyre off to sort it.
Fri: Kendal wall. Mileage, nowt specatular.
Sat: 19km trail run, 1,070m ascent, round Helm crag and Easedale.
Sun: Kendal wall with PPG and the ex-copper. Good sesh, some quality mega pumped laps at the end.
Sort of getting some psyche for indoor climbing. Got two 7b projects on the go, both of which are hard and reachy.
In reply to Dandan:
I've only just started that, in an attempt to increase stamina (and/or efficiency). I had to drop the grade a fair bit. I used to go to the wall and attempt a handful of routes in the 6b+ to 7a range, now if I'm going for a volume session I'll probably not touch anything above 6b.
To fit them all in, I double- or triple-up on routes. That is, climb 3 routes back-to-back, the only rest in between being the time taken to pull the rope and tie in again. They go down a lot quicker that way!
> I'm feeling a bit shamed by FC'ers talking about 20,25,30 routes in a session, I thought I was doing well with 10! how do you fit that in, I just dont have the time! (or stamina!)
I've only just started that, in an attempt to increase stamina (and/or efficiency). I had to drop the grade a fair bit. I used to go to the wall and attempt a handful of routes in the 6b+ to 7a range, now if I'm going for a volume session I'll probably not touch anything above 6b.
To fit them all in, I double- or triple-up on routes. That is, climb 3 routes back-to-back, the only rest in between being the time taken to pull the rope and tie in again. They go down a lot quicker that way!
In reply to AJM:
Yep - 12-15 move problems all year me thinks!
Middle distance was actually the problem - I managed a good number of moves before getting pumped, but I should be able to do lots more moves whilst pumped
VLTG (Sept 2014): Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
LTG (Spring 2014): Unjustified, 8c, Malham & Fish-Eye, 8c, Oliana?
MTG (By end 2nd week Dec 2013):
Keep to the plan – double sessions and all!
Tick Costa Blanca 6c+ M.P.
Maintain On-sight level out in Costa Blanca, i.e. 7c/+
STG (The coming week)
- Make the most of gym freebie – 2 weights sessions this week
- Aero-cap
- An-cap – work out some hand-to-foot boulders to train on
- Work out a 7c-ish circuit to lap
- Core & flexibility work - fitted into rest interval in gym sessions
- (Re)-build campus board so it doesn’t flex so much
- Lose some weight; new aim <74kg before Costa Blanca
The week just gone:
M - An-cap & Aero-cap split session
T - Rest – took cats to friends on mousing duties, ended up catching the critter myself!
W - Routes at AWS with Tyler/Eagle River et al. Didn’t fit with the plan, but good to tie-in for the 1st time since RRG.
T - Intended to do double session; Weights AM, failed to do campus session PM
F - Rest
S - Brean - 6b & 6c warm-ups. Clips in Black Snake Moan. 7a+ re-warm-up, then did BSM with ease - never seen 8a in it's life. Could be only 7c for the tall? Good OS go on Casino Royale, but faffed too much. Simple RP once i'd found a good incut 4" below the sloper i was trying to use at the top!
Curry, beer, wine, blue curaco/port mix, whisky, weird black balsam tonic wine, more beer, etc etc - Cheers AJM!
S - Lethargic rather than hungover - Fry up, drive home, sort house out (fail!) - short sharp aero-power session at Boardroom. 2 sets of 6x 7b+ link-up. Super-pumped on first set; more wired and less pumped 2nd time around - need something harder to train on?
> Ally Smith - sounds like your future has some 12-move madness looming large in it?
Yep - 12-15 move problems all year me thinks!
> You were expecting aerocap to be a weakness, how did that come out in the end?
Middle distance was actually the problem - I managed a good number of moves before getting pumped, but I should be able to do lots more moves whilst pumped
VLTG (Sept 2014): Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race
LTG (Spring 2014): Unjustified, 8c, Malham & Fish-Eye, 8c, Oliana?
MTG (By end 2nd week Dec 2013):
Keep to the plan – double sessions and all!
Tick Costa Blanca 6c+ M.P.
Maintain On-sight level out in Costa Blanca, i.e. 7c/+
STG (The coming week)
- Make the most of gym freebie – 2 weights sessions this week
- Aero-cap
- An-cap – work out some hand-to-foot boulders to train on
- Work out a 7c-ish circuit to lap
- Core & flexibility work - fitted into rest interval in gym sessions
- (Re)-build campus board so it doesn’t flex so much
- Lose some weight; new aim <74kg before Costa Blanca
The week just gone:
M - An-cap & Aero-cap split session
T - Rest – took cats to friends on mousing duties, ended up catching the critter myself!
W - Routes at AWS with Tyler/Eagle River et al. Didn’t fit with the plan, but good to tie-in for the 1st time since RRG.
T - Intended to do double session; Weights AM, failed to do campus session PM
F - Rest
S - Brean - 6b & 6c warm-ups. Clips in Black Snake Moan. 7a+ re-warm-up, then did BSM with ease - never seen 8a in it's life. Could be only 7c for the tall? Good OS go on Casino Royale, but faffed too much. Simple RP once i'd found a good incut 4" below the sloper i was trying to use at the top!
Curry, beer, wine, blue curaco/port mix, whisky, weird black balsam tonic wine, more beer, etc etc - Cheers AJM!
S - Lethargic rather than hungover - Fry up, drive home, sort house out (fail!) - short sharp aero-power session at Boardroom. 2 sets of 6x 7b+ link-up. Super-pumped on first set; more wired and less pumped 2nd time around - need something harder to train on?
In reply to AJM: Cheers AJM!
Full week for me last week, got ill on Saturday with a chesty cough and cold. Felt a bit run down since. Also, my wrist crunched when doing a move on Toe Dragon on Sunday which is now painful and has restricted movement this morning... urgh!
Monday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
Weighted Deadhangs (On bottom 3 finger pocket on Rock-Rings)
Progressive Set:
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
Main Set:
3 x 10kg - 9secs
3 x 10 Good Mornings (20kg)
2 x 10 Bent Over Reverse Flys (15kg)
Evening -
35 Degree Sloper
6secs, 6secs, 6secs, 6secs, 9secs, 9secs (something clicked with a better hand position in the last 2 sets)
20mm Edge - 3 Finger Open-Hand
6secs, 7secs, 7secs, 7secs, 6secs, 6secs
Tuesday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 12 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
Off-Set Pull-Ups
2 x 10 Reps
1 x 8 Reps
5 x 10 Leg Raises
3 x 10 Bent Over Reverse Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Front Shoulder Raises (12.5kg)
Wednesday:
Boardroom Indoor Routes
5, 6a, 6b+, 6c & 6c
Failed on 6c+ and the steep juggy 6b+ again.
Still trying to get used to the indoor route style, find it nails...
Thursday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 12 Bicep Curls (12.5kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
Progressive Set
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
Main Set
3 x 10kg - 10 secs
3 x 10 Good Mornings (20kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Reverse Flys (15kg)
Friday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips
Rock Ring Pull-Ups
L: 12reps M: 12reps S: 6reps
L: 10reps M: 10reps S: 5reps
3 x 10 Bicep Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Shoulder Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Leg Raises
Saturday: Rest
Sunday:
Sheep Pen Bouldering
Did "Little Groover" (V3) probably the hardest of the grade I've ever done.
Had a good flash attempt on "Klem's Arete" (V4). Then spent ages falling on the same move so moved on to the main block.
Did "Toe Dragon" (V5) and the "Dog Shooter Low Start" (V5). Toe Dragon is one of the best V5's I've done, classic!
Had a go on "Kingdom of Rain" (V6) and the "Toe Dragon - Dog Shooter Link" (V7) but no luck.
Love the Sheep Pen!
Full week for me last week, got ill on Saturday with a chesty cough and cold. Felt a bit run down since. Also, my wrist crunched when doing a move on Toe Dragon on Sunday which is now painful and has restricted movement this morning... urgh!
Monday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 10 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
Weighted Deadhangs (On bottom 3 finger pocket on Rock-Rings)
Progressive Set:
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
Main Set:
3 x 10kg - 9secs
3 x 10 Good Mornings (20kg)
2 x 10 Bent Over Reverse Flys (15kg)
Evening -
35 Degree Sloper
6secs, 6secs, 6secs, 6secs, 9secs, 9secs (something clicked with a better hand position in the last 2 sets)
20mm Edge - 3 Finger Open-Hand
6secs, 7secs, 7secs, 7secs, 6secs, 6secs
Tuesday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 12 Bicep Curls (15kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
Off-Set Pull-Ups
2 x 10 Reps
1 x 8 Reps
5 x 10 Leg Raises
3 x 10 Bent Over Reverse Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Front Shoulder Raises (12.5kg)
Wednesday:
Boardroom Indoor Routes
5, 6a, 6b+, 6c & 6c
Failed on 6c+ and the steep juggy 6b+ again.
Still trying to get used to the indoor route style, find it nails...
Thursday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 12 Bicep Curls (12.5kg), 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
Progressive Set
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10secs
Main Set
3 x 10kg - 10 secs
3 x 10 Good Mornings (20kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Reverse Flys (15kg)
Friday:
Lunch -
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips
Rock Ring Pull-Ups
L: 12reps M: 12reps S: 6reps
L: 10reps M: 10reps S: 5reps
3 x 10 Bicep Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Tricep Curls (12.5kg)
3 x 10 Bent Over Shoulder Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Leg Raises
Saturday: Rest
Sunday:
Sheep Pen Bouldering
Did "Little Groover" (V3) probably the hardest of the grade I've ever done.
Had a good flash attempt on "Klem's Arete" (V4). Then spent ages falling on the same move so moved on to the main block.
Did "Toe Dragon" (V5) and the "Dog Shooter Low Start" (V5). Toe Dragon is one of the best V5's I've done, classic!
Had a go on "Kingdom of Rain" (V6) and the "Toe Dragon - Dog Shooter Link" (V7) but no luck.
Love the Sheep Pen!
In reply to Luke Owens:
Good day out at sheep pen and congrats on winning the calendar.
My house mate James was at sheep pen yesterday. not sure if you saw him
Good day out at sheep pen and congrats on winning the calendar.
My house mate James was at sheep pen yesterday. not sure if you saw him
In reply to grubes:
Cheers, nice one yourself on Flying Arete!
...I've won a calendar?
Yeah, I would of met him if he was there. Strong lad?
Good scene up there, was about 20 people at one point!
Cheers, nice one yourself on Flying Arete!
...I've won a calendar?
Yeah, I would of met him if he was there. Strong lad?
Good scene up there, was about 20 people at one point!
In reply to grubes:
Good effort on FA - always feels even better to get up something if it's given you a bit of grief!
Good effort on FA - always feels even better to get up something if it's given you a bit of grief!
In reply to AJM:
Slightly better week just gone, though still not brilliant... struggling to find psyche so am going to have to do some serious forcing myself to train this week. Have started thinking about other holidays to take the blues away, money is going to be super tight due to some other (expensive but very exciting) stuff going on, but there's just no way I can get through the winter without a ski trip to look forward to!
Failed at 2 of last week's goals - no core session & only 1 wall session - though to be fair I was thwarted on this by the wall being closed! Also been feeling pretty sick again, I have no idea what I've got but it's just never ending and is making me feel really run down
M: Bike commute
T: Leeds wall. Horrible session, doing 4x4s but just had no energy. Couldn't even do the moves on a 6b+ that I've led before. Humph.
W: Evening run, 35 mins. First and last time I run through the woods at night on my own... seriously Blair Witch in there, eek!
T: Bike commute, lunchtime run (20 mins). Also my birthday - enough cake and curry to cancel out the entire week's exercise...
F: Bike commute
S: Tried to go to Preston Wall - closed for a comp. 40 min road run instead.
S: 3 hours of biking at a very sedate pace with my dad. Kept him happy anyway!
This week's goals:
Re-start training plan I was on before Morocco, without totally running myself in to the ground.
Book a ski trip??!
Slightly better week just gone, though still not brilliant... struggling to find psyche so am going to have to do some serious forcing myself to train this week. Have started thinking about other holidays to take the blues away, money is going to be super tight due to some other (expensive but very exciting) stuff going on, but there's just no way I can get through the winter without a ski trip to look forward to!
Failed at 2 of last week's goals - no core session & only 1 wall session - though to be fair I was thwarted on this by the wall being closed! Also been feeling pretty sick again, I have no idea what I've got but it's just never ending and is making me feel really run down
M: Bike commute
T: Leeds wall. Horrible session, doing 4x4s but just had no energy. Couldn't even do the moves on a 6b+ that I've led before. Humph.
W: Evening run, 35 mins. First and last time I run through the woods at night on my own... seriously Blair Witch in there, eek!
T: Bike commute, lunchtime run (20 mins). Also my birthday - enough cake and curry to cancel out the entire week's exercise...
F: Bike commute
S: Tried to go to Preston Wall - closed for a comp. 40 min road run instead.
S: 3 hours of biking at a very sedate pace with my dad. Kept him happy anyway!
This week's goals:
Re-start training plan I was on before Morocco, without totally running myself in to the ground.
Book a ski trip??!
In reply to Luke Owens:
I will not acknowledge that comment as his head is big enough already. He was telling me he did several problems 6C-7A+
page seems to have disappeared. You were named as the winner of a kieth sharples calendar but I can't find the news story now. ...
got it http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=5950
I will not acknowledge that comment as his head is big enough already. He was telling me he did several problems 6C-7A+
page seems to have disappeared. You were named as the winner of a kieth sharples calendar but I can't find the news story now. ...
got it http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=5950
In reply to useful:
Life gets in the way sometimes eh? Had a pretty appalling weekend mentally but decided if I commit to this again, then I'm at least encouraging myself to find some structure.
It'll be good to see you reporting again chap.
Life gets in the way sometimes eh? Had a pretty appalling weekend mentally but decided if I commit to this again, then I'm at least encouraging myself to find some structure.
It'll be good to see you reporting again chap.
In reply to Luke Owens:
Thanks! The psyche up there that day was incredible. Pretty sure the banter and shouting got me up most of those problems, so cheers for that.
> Yeah, I would of met him if he was there. Strong lad?
> Good scene up there, was about 20 people at one point!
Thanks! The psyche up there that day was incredible. Pretty sure the banter and shouting got me up most of those problems, so cheers for that.
In reply to AJM: Bit of a late post from me, busy weekend!
Mon - Rockover bouldering. Finally ticked a '7a' P.E circuit that I've been failing on for weeks, and did a few easier problems.
Tue - rest
Wed - MCC routes, can't remember the details but I finished off lapping a 7a... fitness is returning, but much slower than I hoped!
Thurs - rest
Fri - nothing
Sat - MCC bouldering. Felt fairly strong but oddly uncoordinated, felt like I was climbing clumsily... think perhaps I've grown a bit and am adjusting to it, also I've been bulking up a bit so I weigh a bit more. Flashed one V6 and most of the easier new problems.
Sun - rest
So not much new to report, but I did manage my first half-one-armer yesterday (from 90deg to full lock) so that's a result of some arm work! I've also been experimenting with diet as part of my gains and recovery - I'll typically finish each session with a protein supplement immediately after, as well as a meaty main meal after training, and compensating by eating more healthily on non-active days. So far I've gained a few pounds, but I do feel (and apparently look) much stronger, and more in control. I currently weigh around 10st 6lb, and am 5'10'', with not much body fat and skinny legs!
So the main training goal is to continue to improve fitness, the plan is to be able to lap a 7b three times in a fortnight.
Cheers, Jake
Mon - Rockover bouldering. Finally ticked a '7a' P.E circuit that I've been failing on for weeks, and did a few easier problems.
Tue - rest
Wed - MCC routes, can't remember the details but I finished off lapping a 7a... fitness is returning, but much slower than I hoped!
Thurs - rest
Fri - nothing
Sat - MCC bouldering. Felt fairly strong but oddly uncoordinated, felt like I was climbing clumsily... think perhaps I've grown a bit and am adjusting to it, also I've been bulking up a bit so I weigh a bit more. Flashed one V6 and most of the easier new problems.
Sun - rest
So not much new to report, but I did manage my first half-one-armer yesterday (from 90deg to full lock) so that's a result of some arm work! I've also been experimenting with diet as part of my gains and recovery - I'll typically finish each session with a protein supplement immediately after, as well as a meaty main meal after training, and compensating by eating more healthily on non-active days. So far I've gained a few pounds, but I do feel (and apparently look) much stronger, and more in control. I currently weigh around 10st 6lb, and am 5'10'', with not much body fat and skinny legs!
So the main training goal is to continue to improve fitness, the plan is to be able to lap a 7b three times in a fortnight.
Cheers, Jake
OK 2nd week
Heres the bumf from last week
"Current best
Winter lead: IV 5 (solid on IV ish)
Trad lead: E3 5c (once, normally dog E1s)
Sport lead: 6b (again once 6a+ normal)
Bouldering: font 6a (if its not too steep)
Alpine: AD+ (once, but quite a few ADs)
Weaknesses: climb to slowly so pump out/ too weak, sometime lacking in balls, but not on slabs!
STG: 25 e points this year by 1st jan (currently about 20)
MTG: solid leading winter grade v in time for mountaineering exped this summer
LTG: solid leading E1/2 onsight nationwide. Lead 1 E4 onsight (probably on grit), Solid on alpine D, Solid on big Winter gullets/ faces VI 5 etc.)
Target routes: loads but e.g. Point 5, Orion Face, anything big on meggy! Time for tea, Left wall, The brush off, Jetrunner, Great slab, Long Johns slab.
I work in rope access so work random places, times and jobs. Fairly active base level as a result but no chance of routine"
Height 6ft 2, Target weight 12.5 -13st, current 13st 7lbs
So
M: Nout
T: Keswick climbing wall, TR up to 6b and tried a few harder (failed), bouldered up to V3 (grades felt hard?)
W: Gently walk with dad up Causey Pike (+500m?)
T: Foundry leading, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b (furnace), then 6a+ main overhang (1 rest), 6b dogged, 6a+ dogged, 5+
F: Nout - went to massive caving party, got very drunk
S: 5 hour caving trip, more beer
S: Ramshaw slightly hungover and in a cloud. Soloed HS5a,S4a. Bouldered 2 V2s, Lead the crank VS5a and got beasted almost made it clean but breaks were green so 1 rest. Good fun, but needed to go for it more.
All good fun
Heres the bumf from last week
"Current best
Winter lead: IV 5 (solid on IV ish)
Trad lead: E3 5c (once, normally dog E1s)
Sport lead: 6b (again once 6a+ normal)
Bouldering: font 6a (if its not too steep)
Alpine: AD+ (once, but quite a few ADs)
Weaknesses: climb to slowly so pump out/ too weak, sometime lacking in balls, but not on slabs!
STG: 25 e points this year by 1st jan (currently about 20)
MTG: solid leading winter grade v in time for mountaineering exped this summer
LTG: solid leading E1/2 onsight nationwide. Lead 1 E4 onsight (probably on grit), Solid on alpine D, Solid on big Winter gullets/ faces VI 5 etc.)
Target routes: loads but e.g. Point 5, Orion Face, anything big on meggy! Time for tea, Left wall, The brush off, Jetrunner, Great slab, Long Johns slab.
I work in rope access so work random places, times and jobs. Fairly active base level as a result but no chance of routine"
Height 6ft 2, Target weight 12.5 -13st, current 13st 7lbs
So
M: Nout
T: Keswick climbing wall, TR up to 6b and tried a few harder (failed), bouldered up to V3 (grades felt hard?)
W: Gently walk with dad up Causey Pike (+500m?)
T: Foundry leading, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b (furnace), then 6a+ main overhang (1 rest), 6b dogged, 6a+ dogged, 5+
F: Nout - went to massive caving party, got very drunk
S: 5 hour caving trip, more beer
S: Ramshaw slightly hungover and in a cloud. Soloed HS5a,S4a. Bouldered 2 V2s, Lead the crank VS5a and got beasted almost made it clean but breaks were green so 1 rest. Good fun, but needed to go for it more.
All good fun
In reply to JimmyKay:
Thanks, was very happy, even 3 weeks ago the start was 50-50 due to missed training and only 3 20 mile runs in preparation and only one at race pace.. but went about perfectly..
Grubes, well done on FA.. did you get it on video?
Thanks, was very happy, even 3 weeks ago the start was 50-50 due to missed training and only 3 20 mile runs in preparation and only one at race pace.. but went about perfectly..
Grubes, well done on FA.. did you get it on video?
In reply to AJM:
STG: 4 training sessions in a week.
MTG (WE 1/12): 5 training sessions in a week.
LTG(2014): Loads of classic routes (HVS to e3) and visit new crags.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Arc. Repeaters.
Wed: Nothing.
Thu: Nothing.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Arc. Repeaters.
Sun: Nothing.
I agree, this is the hardest time to train. Just to prove it, this week was worse than last week. I had a few excuses but at the end of the day the STG was possible. I think I hit motivational rock bottom on Sunday. I've had a word with myself. Lets see if this week brings a 4 session week.
STG: 4 training sessions in a week.
MTG (WE 1/12): 5 training sessions in a week.
LTG(2014): Loads of classic routes (HVS to e3) and visit new crags.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Mon: Nothing.
Tue: Arc. Repeaters.
Wed: Nothing.
Thu: Nothing.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Arc. Repeaters.
Sun: Nothing.
I agree, this is the hardest time to train. Just to prove it, this week was worse than last week. I had a few excuses but at the end of the day the STG was possible. I think I hit motivational rock bottom on Sunday. I've had a word with myself. Lets see if this week brings a 4 session week.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for doing fit club.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 11st 13lbs (1lbs loss)
M - Fingerboard
T - Core
W - Rest
T - Core
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Rest
I made some vague attempts to do a core workout on Friday morning and again on Saturday, but I was just too knackered. It was the club annual dinner on Friday, so ate and drank a bit. Then spent Saturday morning picking up timber and talking to a carpenter about a kitchen cabinet. Then built a wooden shelf for the front room on Sunday. We also got the carpets put in, so things are nearly done. Good from a diet point of view, especially in the run up to christmas.
maria85 - I did that core work out just now, it was tough. I'm impressed that you can do the whole thing. Something to work up to.
Thanks for doing fit club.
STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 11st 13lbs (1lbs loss)
M - Fingerboard
T - Core
W - Rest
T - Core
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Rest
I made some vague attempts to do a core workout on Friday morning and again on Saturday, but I was just too knackered. It was the club annual dinner on Friday, so ate and drank a bit. Then spent Saturday morning picking up timber and talking to a carpenter about a kitchen cabinet. Then built a wooden shelf for the front room on Sunday. We also got the carpets put in, so things are nearly done. Good from a diet point of view, especially in the run up to christmas.
maria85 - I did that core work out just now, it was tough. I'm impressed that you can do the whole thing. Something to work up to.
In reply to james.f.williamson:
There's a massive crew of us, only half of us were out on Sunday!
The shouting and banter is always a given, glad it helped! Good session!
There's a massive crew of us, only half of us were out on Sunday!
The shouting and banter is always a given, glad it helped! Good session!
In reply to mattrm:
I can't quite do it all - those hindu pushups have me beat after 3! Likewise the other weird push ups, I just do 10 normal ones instead which is enough of a challenge. Definitely push up failure rather than core failure though
I can't quite do it all - those hindu pushups have me beat after 3! Likewise the other weird push ups, I just do 10 normal ones instead which is enough of a challenge. Definitely push up failure rather than core failure though
In reply to maria85:
*phew*
I feel much better now. I think I failed at about 5 on the Hindu pushups (which is basically the move from down dog, to one of the other yoga poses). I did manage a bunch of them for 20. But then I had to miss some out or only do a few.
*phew*
I feel much better now. I think I failed at about 5 on the Hindu pushups (which is basically the move from down dog, to one of the other yoga poses). I did manage a bunch of them for 20. But then I had to miss some out or only do a few.
In reply to mattrm: Put together a report on the race..
http://iainsrunning.blogspot.de/2013/11/jfk-50-miler.html
Recovering pretty well.. did 10k yesterday in around 45 minutes and legs felt OK so hopefully back into it after the weekend
http://iainsrunning.blogspot.de/2013/11/jfk-50-miler.html
Recovering pretty well.. did 10k yesterday in around 45 minutes and legs felt OK so hopefully back into it after the weekend
In reply to IainRUK:
Great write up Iain and a great run.
But it makes me laugh the way you keep referring to the other athletes as if they are in another league to you. You've just proven you're up there with them and it sounds like you've got more in the tank.
Well done.
Great write up Iain and a great run.
But it makes me laugh the way you keep referring to the other athletes as if they are in another league to you. You've just proven you're up there with them and it sounds like you've got more in the tank.
Well done.
In reply to AJM:
A bit late this week, it's been a full week of work and change but not much climbing or biking I'm afraid! Yes those last moves are hard and as I'm primarily a boulderer I have little-to-no endurance so I am shot when I get to them. I know what I need to do. Plenty of longer problems, routes and traverses and keep working the moves.
Goals:
Maintain 142 lbs: ~142.5 lbs
STG:
Current Focus: Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet.
MTG (early 2014):
Be competent at Scottish III by end of 2013/14 season
Get out to the Alps
VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life
This Week:
M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S:
Bouldering
Had a good session on Ousal Low this morning. Nailed the last section and felt stronger than ever, bar one damn move! I'll get this, this winter.
15 mins warm up and stretch
20 mins warm up easy climbing
60 mins harder climbing and Ousal Low attempts
10 mins warm down
S:
3–4 hr walk around Kinder with the misses. A lovely day out, good for the soul!
A bit late this week, it's been a full week of work and change but not much climbing or biking I'm afraid! Yes those last moves are hard and as I'm primarily a boulderer I have little-to-no endurance so I am shot when I get to them. I know what I need to do. Plenty of longer problems, routes and traverses and keep working the moves.
Goals:
Maintain 142 lbs: ~142.5 lbs
STG:
Current Focus: Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet.
MTG (early 2014):
Be competent at Scottish III by end of 2013/14 season
Get out to the Alps
VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life
This Week:
M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S:
Bouldering
Had a good session on Ousal Low this morning. Nailed the last section and felt stronger than ever, bar one damn move! I'll get this, this winter.
15 mins warm up and stretch
20 mins warm up easy climbing
60 mins harder climbing and Ousal Low attempts
10 mins warm down
S:
3–4 hr walk around Kinder with the misses. A lovely day out, good for the soul!
In reply to AJM:
Sorry for late reply - busy week. Last week feels a long time ago, but this is what I can remember!
M - nothing
T - ran into work - sub 50mins now becoming a regular occurrance
W - nothing
T - short session at the biscuit - wasn't really sure what to focus on to maximise session so went on the circuit board as it was quieter than usual. Did the 6a+, 6b and 6c circuits first go, then worked the moves on the 7a+ circuit - got all but one move (which is basically a drop down footless campus move) and tried hard.
F-s - a weekend of absolutely no exercise, but a lovely weekend all the same.
Not a great week - combination of working late and sorted out a TV delivery (which was a saga in itself).
Sorry for late reply - busy week. Last week feels a long time ago, but this is what I can remember!
M - nothing
T - ran into work - sub 50mins now becoming a regular occurrance
W - nothing
T - short session at the biscuit - wasn't really sure what to focus on to maximise session so went on the circuit board as it was quieter than usual. Did the 6a+, 6b and 6c circuits first go, then worked the moves on the 7a+ circuit - got all but one move (which is basically a drop down footless campus move) and tried hard.
F-s - a weekend of absolutely no exercise, but a lovely weekend all the same.
Not a great week - combination of working late and sorted out a TV delivery (which was a saga in itself).
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