UKC

the 350th fit club well done all who have done this for a long time. Also thanks to shark for stating it 350 weeks almost 7 years ago?

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or with tional tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=564587&v=1

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last week's (349) thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=570305

AJM - Happy birthday
Nick Russell - Well done on the E4 tick. Static or take flight?
IainRUK - Well Done on the price money
MrChewy - Welcome Back
mbh - Excellent Mileage
AndrewW - great news good luck with your project
Jimmykay - Any Christmas plans yet?
Exile - Glad you enjoyed your bouldering. getting a little cold for routes
Biscuit - Excellent progress at the wall. if teacher keeps being grumpy complain about him top roping!
Eagle River - Well done on the 7c now lead it top rope does not count!
Curious Yellow - welcome back. Whats your goal for next year?
Mark Torrance - hopefully the injury will not hold you back too much
Tyler - Very busy week well done
Grubes about time fat f*ck!
Porkpiegirl - lots of training as usual keep it up
Dandan82 - well done on the 6c's
Nomics4sale - nice mileage get out at all this week
Ally Smith - carewful about deviating from the plan you could have an angry coach randell in his boxing gloves after you
Luke Owen - well done on the V5's excellent training too.
Maria85 - did you book a ski trip?
joughton - nice target how did you get on with your lapping attempts this week?
RM199 - Great week. caving party sounds interesting loads booze in a dark room?
Leon - Motivation can be hard at this time of year but you can get big gains for when you put it into practise
Mattrm - Manage to make up for last week?
Stevmarkperry - excellent progress on ousal as you say you are close now
Ali - sounds like your endurance is still good flashing the circuits. just don't let the finger strength slip

Fit club seems quiet at the moment. It makes it easier for doing stats but seems quiet

In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes, and nice work on FA! Sounds like you're making good progress on Dolphin Belly Slap too - have you done it from the start out to the crimp over the roof then?

Had a week's free pass to the posh gym near work this week so decided to make the most of that, and work on core and general muscle strengthening.

M - Gym session, didn't feel inspired or motivated but managed some weights and a warm up/down on rower and treadmill. Didn't help that I'd forgotten my music!
T - signed up for a 7am core class in a moment of insanity. Wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Went for a short swim and sauna after
W - nothing
T - nothing, though random occurance of the day was waking up with a massive, sore blister on my elbow! Can only think I burnt it on my hot water bottle during the night (which seems a bit weird) - the perils of sleeping along!!
F - nothing
S - pilates class - weird! Legs ached from standing like a stork. Short swim.
S - Biscuit Factory - poor session as feeling generally wasted/not with it - I was trying to be motivated but just couldn't seem to push through and really try hard.

It's been a really exhausting, stressful week at work combined with not enough sleep for my dormouse-like body. Run myself down too much again....oops! This afternoon will be hot chocolate on the sofa time

In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes:

Goals: New Aged Traveler, Raindogs

Mon: routes indoors, another good session intensity-wise, can't remember any specifics.

Wed: bouldering indoors. Haven't done that for a while, funny set of V6s in that I either flashed the problems or couldn't touch them. Did a lot of volume as I was waiting for my lift home to finish a routes session. Sore arms afterwards

Fri: Ashtanga Yoga

Sat: Malham. 2nd session on New Aged Traveler. I knew from previous session I could do the crux so no excuse to not get on lead. Put clips in then had two attempts falling at the last move of the crux in the heat of the sun. Clouds and wind dropped the temperature right down around 2pm and I had one last go where I got to the last couple of moves (going right at the top) and fell off. I didn't take any of the shake outs (due to being excited about getting through the crux) and fingers were completely numb so it was hard to tell how wasted I was.

Pleased to get that close to a 7c+ 2nd session on it. With a bit more consideration to shaking out post-crux and familiarity with the footholds this shouldn't take much longer to tick. Hopefully.

In reply to Ali:

Thanks Ali from start calling reaching the good hold round the lip

STG (February of 2013):
Lead E2 try onsight
Boulder 6C/V5 UK
Winter Grit - 7A boulder - Progress
Winter Grit - snowballing
Winter Grit - Big air
Font - Climb a load of 6's and try get a 7.
Font alternate plan - eat a load of pastries from different pattisserie's
MTG (June 2014):
plan a trip to kalymnos for first week in april - Wheels in motion kind of for two trips maybe or 1 and ceuse
Kalymnos - 4x7's in a week.
kalymnos - at least two ticks a day
LTG (July 2014):
Plan two week UK/irish tour visiting - Pembroke, North wales, Ireland, fairhead and isle of man

This week's goals:
Not sure what to do next? - wanted to check out a potential project at ilkley but fell through

M: rest
T: rest
W: rest
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: planned to go to ilkley partner bailed as I was packed up ready to go .. 30-40 mins work out at holmfirth. Repeated stuff and a few practises on step crimpy stuff using eliminates
S: stated pre font diet. too much on to climb outside went depot 1hour 45 constant climbing pretty much. Nice session

Next week Goals:
Two mid week sessions
100 push ups
Stick to diet

In reply to All:

Should be free around Manc from 2-330 ish on Tuesday if anyone fancies a climb give me a shout

In reply to grubes:

Can't join you as I'll be at work but if you're by yourself Rock Over is probably your best bet. Large main bouldering room and new circuit boards upstairs.

In reply to Eagle River:

Will be in cheadle/Stockport area so may end up at awesome or grit

In reply to grubes:

The aerial approach for me! I don't have the lank or the smearing ability to make it static. It's quite a rush - amazing how hard an 8" jump can be!

M - Yoga, swimming (2.4km, kick set). I haven't got used to this Monday schedule yet, leaves me pretty tired.
T - Climbing at Redpoint. Light session (~9 routes), had to get back home to continue work.
W, T - Nothing. (Away at a conference)
F - Nothing. (Somehow the conference left me feeling pretty tired. Too much time spent sitting on my arse!)
S - Climbing in Avon. E2 5a solo warm-up, then ticked Arms Race! (E4 5c) Then got on Last Slip (E3 5c), found it at least as scary as I expected! A good day.
S - Going to Redpoint later, more social than training, some informal uni comp going on. Maybe I'll go for a run too.

Cracking day at Avon yesterday. I was pleased with Arms Race, though the style wasn't perfect. I'd toproped it ages ago (with lots of tension, not sure I did any of the moves properly) and I had two pieces of Alex's gear in (at about half height) for my attempt, so I'll call it some sort of retro-flash. Last Slip was excellent, I can see how that runout got its reputation!

Training was disproportionately disrupted this week by that conference, time to get back on track for December. In review of November, I didn't meet either of my goals, partly due to a succession of disruptive weeks (low psyche/tired week 348, illness week 349, conference week 350). Still, I managed to get out at least once a week, made progress in both sport and trad, so I'm not complaining! The mid-term goals are looking healthy.

November's goals
Indoor: 30 routes in a session (at least 20 at 6a or above). Only made it to 25. Sets a benchmark for next endurance phase.
Trad: One of the multipitch Cheddar E3s (Crow, Heaven and Earth Show, Ahimsa, Brainbiter). Didn't manage this. Plans to do Crow yesterday were scuppered by my brother wanting the car. I did get a couple of good trad days though, so not too disappointed.

Short-term goals (December, focus strength/power)
4 fingerboard sessions before I go home for Christmas (21/12)
Bouldering: Find out roughly where my current limit is (grade-wise) on the mothership at TCA
Trad: It would be nice to get one more 'big tick' before Christmas. e.g. one of the big Cheddar E3s, The Featherless Biped (E4) or one of the Main Wall E4s (Avon), something scary at Brean (Bones Chimney? :s)

Medium-term goals (2013)
Sport: 7a flash. Tick: onsight Raw Deal
Sport: 7b+ pyramid. So far 7/8@7a, 3/4@7a+, 1/2@7b, 1/1@7b+. Top level ticked, just got to go back to fill in the base now.
Trad: I'll set a very modest goal of 2xE3(+), just to ensure that I actually do some! Tick! Wings of Unreason (E4), Arms Race (E4), Last Slip (E3).
Incidental: get a car. Done

In reply to grubes:

Thanks.. steady week..

m: 3.2 miles 9:30 min mile legs sore
t: 4.4 miles 8:30 pace.
w: 4.5 mile trail run 9:30 pace
t: 6.21 miles 7:45 pace, feeling better
f: am: 4.5 miles 6:55 pace. pm: 5k treadmill 19:15... finished sub 6 pace..
s: 9,7 miles trail run steady
s: 13.3 miles 7:20 pace with phillly running group

In reply to grubes:
Thanks for doing fit club grubes

Best efforts outdoors last year:
RP - 7a
HP - E5 6b
Boulder - V4
Onsigth E2/3,
Winter VI 6

Goals for this Yaar:
Boulder V7 - tick
RP - 7a+ - tick
HP - E6 - maybe!

Autumn: HP Blow Out, (E6,) or start winter climbing - whichever opportunity allows first.

This winter - VI 7

Training:

M: am - 1hr PE traverses at wall, pm - 45min fell run & 30min general weights
T: pm - 1hr 30min PE traverses at wall.
W: Rest
T: am - 45min road run, pm - 45min road run
F: 45min dry tooling
S: Rest
S: am - 2hrs top roping for endurance on Red Wall, Trowbarrow and had a go on top rope on Exequy. E6 6b**

Good week all in all, just waiting for a heat wave or winter to arrive. Exeguy was good - pretty much do all the moves other than the crux pull of a pocket. Can't see it as a head point project as there is a real chance of cratering from the crux at 6 / 7m, (gear wouldn't catch you,) but it would be good to get it clean on TP.

In reply to grubes:

Thanks grubes.

Still suffering after-effects of diverticulitis flare-up, so no real training (other than actual climbing - that counts, right?).

Anyhow:

M - Resting.
T - outdoor climbing, mostly working project. Still no sign of working out new sequence.
W - outdoor climbing, about 8 routes 6a+ to 6c+. Highlight taking biggest sports fall to date (25 feet-ish). If I'm going to keep bleating for slack then it's probably a good idea to make the clip, or at least fail clipping at waist height, not on tippy toes. Good fun anyhow.
Th - resting.
F - outdoor climbing, several goes on bouldery 6c+ for a bit of strength training.
S - Resting.
S - outdoor climbing, lots of laps on 6a/6a+ for endurance.

In reply to grubes:
Saved up two weeks both a little quiet, but still aching from gritstone bouldering yesterday, which means it must have been a good session...

M:
T:
W: Matrix: Working stuff around 6c
T:
F:
S:
S:

M: Circuits at the Edge, found the set a bit odd, stopper moves on the 6b+ and 7a at the moment, (not just me on the 6b+ either!) lapped the others a fair bit to make up for it
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Stanage Apparent North: Gritstone bouldering circuit in perfect weather, really enjoyed it, been too long
S: 6 mile stroll from Baslow

STG: More 7a'/+s (Bleep and booster, barguest direct): RPS: 6c (4) 6c+ (2) 7a (5) 7a+(2)

MTG: 7b WYSWIG/Sticky Wicket/Something Stupid - started working

LTG: Maybe apply some of the sport fitness to some trad...few classic E1's and E2's out there that are calling + Obsession

In reply to grubes:


...??? If you mean the party, that was a pre trip leaving/engagement/"drink the house dry" party. Epic fun! Still got 4 months left until the big 3-0.

Monday - still short sleep and fat from weekend. Brean. 2x 7as to warm up. 2 poor goes on base of project, failing on the hardest moves, on storm warning. Not that hard in the grand scheme of things but hard for me. Don't usually fall off that bit though. Sacked it and ticked clashing socks, a 7b, had fallen off the flash a few weeks ago, did it putting draws in. Tried roof of inequity, a 7a+, had tried a year or more back. Foot popped high up, skin too sore for a rematch.

Thursday - went to try out the ring road boulder on the edge of Bristol. Bit dank and not terribly fresh to start. Not good for something that's basically slopey gritstone-esque sandstone in the woods. Soldiered on and ticked some V3/4 stuff. Conditions freshened up later on, was trying knuckleduster (v4/5, big throw off slopey pockets), was making the distance but not sticking the top hold. Maybe get next time. Got a v7 or so sit start that might be worth a look if I can get the stand.

Saturday - glorious weather at Brean. 4 burns on the project - first and best go I made the redpoint crux throw but didn't hit it. Second go got to the same point but didn't have feet set right so couldn't get tight into the crucial drop knee. Third go fell a move earlier - was feeling strong but missed the pocket and basically hit the rock next to it! Last go tips were numb but still equalled high point despite almost nothing going right with the last few moves, just kept battling on.

Sunday - bit broken. Cheddar. Dogged valley of the blind 7b+/c twice, got good sequence and linked it in 3. Too cold for me to get much more though and was feeling yesterday. Nice to get back on it, know I'm definitely stronger than I was the last time I tried it. Reckon in slightly warmer conditions and slightly fresher I should be able to get through the crux and into the stamina upper section. Felt like sequence improvements were still there on the top though, some high undercuts where I think sequence could be smoother.

Fortnight left now til we pack up. Storm warning variation will go given time, but whether I've got enough of it remains to be seen. Numb tips a bit of a challenge in non sunny weather in these temperatures.

In reply to grubes:

Ta a lot Grubes

Mon - bouldered. lots of volume.
Tues on the shoulders were locked solid. Did too much too quickly.
This weekend has been two 15hr days at work in London.

So a rubbish week but my own fault for trying too hard too soon.

Had one hours sleep since Thursday night and I only had two then. Bed calls...

Haven't done this before, and December may not be th best of times to start! Anyway, here goes:

Mon: Routes session at UCR. 10 routes in back-to-back pairs. Included numerous 6cs, a 6c+ flash and an attempt on a 7a.
Tues: 9 miles cycling ie commute to work & back
Weds: Routes at UCR, pretty much the same as Monday. Had a go at their new leading ladder 7a (I'm not doing the LL, so the route was open). Got to the top clip, above that is nails!
Thurs: boulderig with AJM. As h said, dank start but things improved. Got a v4 after being persuaded to actually properly commit!
Fri: cycle commute
Sat: nowt
Sun: Redpoint. Mainly red core routes, again in pairs as redpoint is rather lacking in height

STG: not going to commit to anything outside as the weather is starting to get a tad chilly. Should probably do some bulk easier route sessions, 18 or so up-down-up routes. On other sessions, get on things starting with 7, for heavens sake! Retry the 7b I was projecting.
MTG: how long is medium?
LTG: I've got more ideas for this...
feel more confident leading E3
headpoint A38 (well protected E6)
start working at the top end of my pyramid, so more 7b and 7b+ redpoints outside

In reply to grubes:
Thanks grubes


Thank you!


The Indians are surely waiting beyond the ridge, if you talk like that...

M - 10.5 miles road/trail
T-
W - 7.2 miles road
T -
F - 10.4 miles road, getting a bit lost.
S - 10.7 miles road/trail, then later walk 6 miles along coast path, cycle back. Was alarmed during the walk to see that a section of coast path along which I have run many times this year has collapsed and disappeared.

S - 5.1 miles road, loaded and pushed 30 wheelbarrows of dung at the allotment.

Almost 44 miles. A lot less than the 60 I had hoped to do, so not great.

In reply to hms:

Well hello.....

I do short as next training cycle (a few months, lead up to a trip or other calendar event that impacts climbing), medium in usually do as a year (as in start of a year - by the end of year they're probably short term, but goals are usually then driven by the run up to a spring trip or whatever), long is a few years and then I have the big hairy audacious goals to act as my long term compass

Personal preference though really...

In reply to grubes:

Truly shit training week.

M: Stockport wall with UKCFC glitterati, medium session very low on achievement.
T: arrived at hotel at 11:30 with the intention of doing core but couldn't stream my workout from Dropbox so gave in
W: Went to Reading wall only to find bouldering roped off for resetting (on a busy midweek evening. Really?) so had to make do with 7kms on treadmill
T: Didn't get home until 11pm so nothing
F: didn't want to do anything as staying fresh for redpoint Saturday....
S: Put clips in project, had one additional play on crux and then sacked it because it was busy. Diverted my attention to my quick tick project I failed to get up last time. Well, at least now, after two sessions I can do all the moves on the quick tick project!
S: I'm not saying an amble around Lyn Idwal is training

Diet: Two burger meals, one pub meal and for the first time in ages I drank beer (three pints. Woo hoo, a PBS for this year!)
Weight: Predictably portly
Injuries: Finger joints very troubling, finger strength was down notably on recent visits to Malham.

In reply to grubes:

Cheers guys Feeling a bit coy about goals, will post next years list at new year I reckon.

Mon - Boulder. Campus, offset pullups, pressups etc. Possibly got a bit carried away.
Tues - Routes. Totally rubbish, wasted from previous day.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Short boulder, taking it easy.
Fri - Portland project. Managed one of the missing moves.
Sat - Portland. Glorious sun, enthusiasm high. No real progress but a nice day.
Sun - Portland. Another move down. One more move to go plus one I currently need rope tension for...

In reply to grubes:

Third week. going OK i guess.

Weight 13st 6lb

M: nout
T: indoors at the works. 25 problems on new 5+ circuit. failed on 5 ohters
W: nout
T: indoors at works. Tried 6b circuit, did 3 problems, and a few of the 5+ i couldnt do tuesday. maybe 8 problems in total but all hard (for me). Felt productive.
F: nout - resting for sat
S: Roaches Skyline - went well psyked but not very successful. Lots of good bouldering including one V4 flash, but failed on my two main objectives of Wings of unreason, and Wild thing, simply could do the steep starts of either. Prelude to space solo was lovely though. Went home a bit pissed off all the same.
S: Mountain biking at Stainburn. Really interesting technical routs which i lapped up to 10km total distance.

In reply to Exile:

if its 6-7m could you not pad out the landing once you got the move wired. big fall but with 2/3 pads should be okay

In reply to Eagle River:

Meant to say Steve, that's blisteringly fast progress! Was chatting to Ally yesterday - when it goes is that your first 7c+? Makes me think how much more Malham seems to suit your style than the big K...

In reply to Eagle River: pretty damn good session at malham

In reply to grubes:

still a bit limited with the finger/wrist injury but it's definitely getting better, i've found anyhting technical and pinchy really tweaks it so want to give it a while before i'm back out at malham.. was thinking maybe next week

monday- afterwok gym session intense intervals on bike for 50 mins, core, weights inc usual pull ups.. felt knackered

tuesday- after work uphill cross trainer and core followed by moderate boudlering to see how wrist was .. managing v5/6 moves again but worried about linking them becaue of wrist

wednesday- rest (really enjoyed my rest day, straight home after work)

thursday- kendal and then turbo in the garage. much improved in comparison to last sunday's session, working harder routes, reducing rests and falls, practise clip positions, ended with an hour and a half of lapping on easier but long steep routes

friday- run up ingleborough, weights, core, pull ups at uni followed by 40 mins of rainbowing bouldering (forgot chalk bag and shoes so had no choice but to do an endurance session)

saturday- DIY day and helping build wall.. don't use sealant like filler on bath .. it's messy. pm intense and ace interval training on bike in gym for 45 and then 20 mins on uphill cross trainer, stretch

sunday- kendal- very similar to sunday, seemed a bit busy so didn;t have as much space to work routes. seem to be increasing my mental threshold with leading routes at my limit a few times in a session rather than feeling like i've done well to just try once and then move on to something else. want a really hard route to project that floats my boat but doesn't tweak my wrist/finger.. because i don't feel right if i don't get properly spanked during at least part of a session.

garage wall should be finished this week in terms of the baords up, we'll just have to put routes up then

PPG

In reply to AJM:


What AJM really meant to say was that it was too hot at Brean and he greased off his project three times before being too tired to make the most of the good conditions that arrived at sunset....

In reply to AJM:

Seems that way! I assumed it'd take a while to get back into malham's style but feel comfortable after 3 sessions.

The fast progress has a lot to do with having beta-king Neil at the crag when I first tried NAT, saved a lot of skin and time being told how to do the crux!

In reply to Curious Yellow:


Sounds like it's not an impossibility though from the weekend updates? I've certainly got things that i can't do moves on yet still see them as "active" projects!

In reply to grubes:

The plan is everything!!!

Costa Blanca long weekend hit coming up - plan can go to the wall then

VLTG (Sept 2014): Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race

LTG (Spring 2014): 8b+/c RPs: Unjustified, Malham & Fish-Eye or Humildes pas casa at Oliana?

MTG (By end 2nd week Dec 2013):

Keep to the plan; double sessions and all!

Tick Costa Blanca 6c+ M.P.
Maintain On-sight level out in Costa Blanca, i.e. 7c/+
Bridge swing off Mascarat gorge

STG (The coming week)
- 1x Gym
- 1x Aero-cap
- 1x An-cap; work out some hand-to-foot boulders to train on
- x2 Aero-power; Work out a 7c-ish circuit to lap
- Core & flexibility work - fitted into rest interval in gym sessions
- (Re)-build campus board so it doesn't flex so much
- Lose some weight; new aim <74kg before Costa Blanca - now 75.8kg and 6.7% BF-atty (I was considerably heavier during the week, so dropping nearly a kilo over the weekend seems like minor triumph!)

The week just gone:

M - Aero-cap; 8x doubles in the 6c-7a+ range, 17 tie-ins
T - Another gym freebie; weights session – felt beasted
W - Surprising lack of DOMS. Foot-on campus aero-power session. Max interval 5min 20s; plateaux’d quickly. Painful on skin - multiple blisters.
T - Another gym session - 3RM max up on all exercises despite feeling a bit wasted.
F - Rest
S - Brean – Tickled the finishing holds on Milky Bar Kid on first proper redpoint, then puntered it with a foot slip mid-height when feeling pretty fresh Poor skin/conditions/lack of discipline meant i was too knackered when conditions came good. Felt like an an-cap session as it's 3x 10-12move boulder problems between shake-outs.
S - Cheddar - cold, but chuffed to do a great 7c with burly moves on good holds as skin was crucified from previous days efforts.

In reply to Nick Russell:

Did the run, another slow 6km (5:15/km). No problems with achilles, not even a bit sore this morning. Time to add another km next week, I think... Got a poor start to the climbing in the evening, came off my bike on the way there, but the bouldering comp was fun. Really informal, good atmosphere, came second.

In reply to grubes:

Hello grubes, thanks for the stats.

STG: 7b and/or V6 indoors
MTG: 7a onsight in Spain/Turkey
LTG: trad

Mon: BoulderUK. Easiest set I've been on, flashed some V5s but failed to get on a V6. Daft: can't tick one unless I try one.
Tues: 27km run, 1,390m ascent, up and around Fairfield from Glenridding.
Weds: Stockport with UKCFC. Good session, incremental progress on my 7b.
Thurs: nowt
Fri: Kendal wall. Incremental progress on my other 7b.
Sat: 28km run, 1,382m ascent up Dove, Fairfield, Helvellyn and Raise from Glenridding.
Sun: Leeds wall. Dogged a 7a THREE TIMES.

In reply to Nomics4sale:

Those are two long and hilly runs. Impressive.

In reply to grubes:

Thanks Grubes, still working my way back up the grades, slow and steady!

Another good week overall, got some good training done and some good ticks indoors too, the only issue i'm currently having is my tweaky forearm/wrist which weirdly was playing up fri/sat while I was on a weekend break being lazy, and then after climbing sunday it has been fine! I think the message there is to keep climbing and it will probably fix itself...

STG: Get outdoors - Done
Tick a 7a before December - Not Done

Finally, finally got outside, it was fantastic! I checked my logbook, Feb 17 was my last trip outside (if you dont include Font in April where I climbed for all of 8 minutes before dislocating my shoulder) so it felt great to be on real rock. It was only a flying visit on our way back from a weekend away so we only had time for a couple of routes and I had no time to try a 7a but I was just happy to be outside!

M: Chest; bench, dumbell press, flat fly, dips, tricep pull down
Shoulder; lying and seated rotator cuff
T: Climb indoor; 6a+,6b,6b,6b+,6c,6c,6c,6c+,6b
W: Shoulder; arnold press, smith overhead press, standing lateral raise, machine lateral raise, bent over cable lateral raise, front barbell raise
Back; chin up side to sides, frenchies
T: Nothing, visited physio about wrist/forearm, inconclusive
F: Nothing
S: Nothing
S: Climb, Cuttings, Portland, 5,6a,6b

I think I tweaked something doing shoulder on Wednesday, had the odd sharp pain when moving the shoulder around but I think it's fading and shouldn't be an ongoing issue. Also, I'm experimenting with leaving my wrist alone this week and just not poking and prodding at it, see if that helps!

Goal for this week is definitely bang out a good brace of 7a's indoor.

In reply to Curious Yellow:

What is your project on Portland?

In reply to Ally Smith:

Are you getting us confused? I thought you were the one who spent all day pratting about whining about it being too hot

In reply to grubes:

Cheers dude. Yep getting there!

Odd week this week having finally handed in my notice in my full-time job – I now become full-time employed by my own business as of Jan 1 2014! Exciting, and slightly scary, times ahead for sure. I'm hoping that this will allow me to do even better work for my clients as well as having more flexible working hours to fit in climbing, mountaineering and biking. I can't wait to start the new year totally psyched. Next year is going to be tough but at least I'm working towards my dreams again, back on target!

Goals:

Maintain 142 lbs: ~140 lbs

STG:
Current Focus: Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet.

MTG (early 2014):
Be competent at Scottish III by end of 2013/14 season (got at least one trip planned for Feb so far)
Get out to the Alps (TBA)

VLTG (dreams):
Dream of White Horses
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Juvsøyla (WI6), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Upper Gorge, Rjukan
Wheel of Life


This Week:

M:
Mountain biking
27km commute on my singlespeed MTB (one way)

T:

W:

T:

F:

S:

S:
Mountain biking
25km loop on the hardtail. This was a lovely day out and a great end to an awesome week (work-change wise)

In reply to grubes:

We did wonder that - cross that bridge when we can actually climb it clean, which may be a while yet!

In reply to grubes:

Nah. Shockingly I might keep the passport in the cupboard and start saving some money. I have had a massive shift in psyche for running again though for some reason. I guess I've started getting a little tired of the same routine and want to mix it up a little.

M- Nothing
T- 5K ~ 18:40ish
W- Rest
T- Track session
F- No exercise
S- Started drinking at 1pm
S- Finished drinking at 3am

In reply to grubes: Thanks Grubes

Mon - busy
Tue - still busy
Wed - bouldering at AW Stockport. Good session, felt fairly strong. Flashed most of the V5s and V6s, and got five of the V7-8 circuit second or third go. All of these were more on the feet than the fingers though, and I failed to flash a V4 in the roof so I clearly need to step out the comfort zone, to quote ER. Also completely wiped out cutting loose off a scary-high last move!
Thurs - inspired by Jimmy, I went on a run for the first time in ages! I ran 5km in the pitch black, very muddy and very hilly! Good fun though, took just over half an hour which is pretty good for me. Head torch helped!
Fri - rubbish bouldering session at Rockover, think the run made it harder to recover from Wednesday - something to bear in mind. Not much done at all.
Sat - rest
Sun - Stoney sport. Did a 6c and 6c+, then tried Little Plum. Just too hard! The crux was a solid tech 6c move, about V8 apparently. It was literally just easy climbing, followed by two hand movements and about twenty foot movements, loads of body tension (it's all undercuts and shit feet) and the more easy climbing. Not my thing at all.

Did manage my first ever one-armer today though, woop woop!

I've also got my first interview for Medicine tomorrow, at Newcastle, so I'm currently terrified!

Cheers, Jake

In reply to grubes:

Whoever's doing stats next week - I hope you've taken note that not only did PPG take a rest day, she ENJOYED it! This is my Fit Club moment of the week!

In reply to grubes:

STG: 4 training sessions in a week.
MTG (WE 1/12): 5 training sessions in a week.
LTG(2014): Loads of classic routes (HVS to e3) and visit new crags.
VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Mon: Arc. Repeaters.
Tue: Broughton(max 5c+).
Wed: Nothing.
Thu: Arc. Repeaters.
Fri: Nothing.
Sat: Arc. Repeaters. 4x4(v3,v3,v3,v2).
Sun: Nothing.

Much more motivated this week, tick STG. Got beaten-up by Broughton (last year I was climbing 6b+ there, Tuesday I was happy with 5c+!!).

Need to start on the weights/core once I shift my cold.

In reply to Ali:

In reply to leon:

Broughton 6b+, hardcore. And 5c+ isn't too shabby either!

In reply to pork pie girl:

sunday ..forgot this bit.. cardio session in the little gym at kendal wall after climbing .. bike half hour cross trainer twenty mins. if i lived in kendal i'd live at that wall... it's such an ace place!!! i never thought indoor climbing would float my boat. great staff, great routes and then a little gym as a bonus... i've heard on the grapevine that i'm getting a climbing passes for xmas off the inlaws :oD yippee!!!

In reply to Nomics4sale: do some work

In reply to mbh:

cheers mbh. Note I don't record time, there's a reason for that .

In reply to pork pie girl:

do some work? you can talk! anyway I'm too busy planning my next holiday to think about work right now. Spain over new year in case you're interested....

In reply to Nomics4sale:

Snap! Where abouts in Spain are you headed?

In reply to grubes:

M: [56.3] 7.5 miles run round a dark, cold Norwegian lake (twice)
T: [56.3] -
W: [47.3] -
T: [33.5] -
F: [27] -
S: [27.4] 11.4 road run with 4 x 1 mile off 7 minutes (6:07, 6:07, 6:09, 6:14)
S: [18.9] -

Working away and then family (because I'd been working away) got in the way, in a nice way. I really look forward to the monthly flat road intervals session - though this one was a bit short. Which does rather make me wonder why this winter seems to be all about cross country races.

In reply to grubes:

Been flat out with work and life etc, finding it hard to keep the psyche up in this inbetween-season-period. Still going to gym, wall, etc, just not as excited as usual about it. Hopefully just a fleeting phase.

M: gym
T: bouldering, cycling
W: gym
Th:rest
F: cycling
Sa, Su: rest

Hoping to get out climbing or drytooling next weekend, so maybe will get a bit more enthusiasm by then.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Abdet, near Calpe. Where are you going? I can't wait!!

In reply to Nomics4sale:

Are you staying at Tom's ?

In reply to biscuit:

Dunno, who's Tom? This is the accommodation:

http://www.abdet.com/accommodation-costa-blanca

In reply to Nomics4sale:

Yes it's been so long since your last holiday!!!!!

In reply to Graham Booth:

It will have been 7 weeks!!! And everyone needs a holiday after xmas. What you doing lurking here anyway, shouldn't you be emailing Turkey??

In reply to Nomics4sale:

Costa Blanca weekend coming up; back to Chulilla at New year, but flying via Alicante so probably end up at Wildside for a day either end of the trip

In reply to grubes:

Thanks for doing fit club.

STG - Climb 6b (or v3) @ wall, 11st 10lbs
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st

M - Core
T - 1 hour bouldering
W - Core
T - Rest
F - Core
S - 3 mi run
S - 3.7 mi run

Ran along the river in Frankfurt as we were away for the weekend, which was nice. Managed to get some bouldering in at the start of the week. However I wasn't feeling well then, really lacking energy. Still not feeling great to be honest, but that's probably just lack of sleep from the weekend. It was good to finally get back into running. Just in time for the 10k in a fortnight. Ate crap over the weekend.

In reply to grubes: Cheers buddy!

Monday: Rest

Tuesday:
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 10 Tricep Curls (L&R 12.5kg)

3 x 12 Bicep Curls (15kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys (15kg)
3 x 10 Leg Raises

Weighted Deadhangs (On bottom 3 finger rock ring pockets)

Progressive Set
2.5kg - 10secs, 5kg - 10secs, 7.5kg - 10 secs

Main Set
3 x 10kg - 10secs

Wednesday:
12 Wide Grip Pull-Ups, 10 Dips, 12 Bicep Curls (15kg)

4 x 10 Good Mornings (First set 20kg, 3 sets 30kg)
3 x 10 Bentover Reverse Flys (15kg)
2 x 10 Leg Raises
3 x 10 Weighted Lunges (35kg)

Rock Ring Pull-Ups
Set 1 - Lrg: 10reps, Med: 10reps, Sml: 4reps
Set 2 - Lrg: 10reps, Med: 10reps, Sml: 5reps

Thursday: Short session at The Boardroom
Did a load of problems from V1 - V4.

Managed the F6c on the Piscobloc wall. Happy with this, progress on steep ground!

Friday: Rest

Saturday: Back at The Sheep Pen

Finished off "Klem's Arete" (6B+) not an easy one for the grade. Classic problem!

Wrist still painful from last week but tried the "Toe Dragon/Dog Shooter Link" (7A+) made some progress and tried "Weight Watcher" (6C/+) which was absolutely nails did all the moves put couldn't link the cut loose iron cross...

Sunday: Rest

In reply to Nomics4sale:

Yes you are staying at Tom's.

Friend of mine. Ask him about some good runs in the area if you're going to want to keep your hand (foot ?) in.

In reply to Luke Owens:

Going back again this week?

I'm keen for a quick hit of steepness before Spain. Up-down-up the Psicobloc should be about 40 moves = pump-tastic Euro-style training!

In reply to Ally Smith:

Yep, will be there on Thursday eve bud.

In reply to grubes:
Better week but still not great, more effort required!

M: 20 min lunchtime trail run
T: Bike commute
W: Orienteering - 2nd female/15th overall but made some very silly mistakes, could have done a lot better. Disappointed with myself!
T: Bike commute. Leeds wall - 4x4s.
F: Nothing
S/S: Meet up with old uni mates. Awesome weekend but didn't do anything more than a gentle hour long walk and drank too much. Good for my happiness state though

Decided to report on things slightly differently - based on number of sessions I aim to achieve in a week rather than by the day. Then I can feel less guilty about taking rest days if I work hard the rest of the week! This week is going better so far, on target again


And YES I booked a ski trip! Maybe why this week is going better.... off to France in March. Woop woop! Also off to Scotland between xmas & new year, and pencilled in dates for a longer Scotland (climbing) trip in the Spring. Have run out of holiday after that... unfortunately