UKC

Having done Fiesta and Zulu at Riglos I'm looking for more in the same/slightly harder style

i.e.
- Classics
- F7b-ish crux
- 8+ pitches
- Inspiring lines and/or locations
- Preferably sport, "trad" considered (i.e. Dolomite peg clipping)
- Preferably doable in a long weekend from UK

Ideas please?

In reply to Ally Smith:

Have you seen this book:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Parois-légende-belles-escalades-dEurope/dp/2723455...

It makes a nice Classic Rock type tick list of crags.

Although most of the routes are around 6a/b many are harder. One nice things about the number of easier routes is that you might find it easier to get 4 in the car and save some dosh.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Some friends climbed the Brandler Hasse this summer and said it was great.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=459

In reply to Ally Smith:

I asked exactly the same question two years ago in the other place and got some excellent replies: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18533.0.html

Hasse-Brandler of course.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Read Duncan's thread!

Also in general check out the Schweiz Extrem guides. Lifetimes worth of stuff to be doing. Have them with us if you can wait until we next see you.

In reply to AJM:

Ally, I was also going to suggest stuff in the Swiss extreme guides. Stuff on the Wendenstock may interest you amongst others. I should be able to lend copies of the extreme guides for a bit but we'll need them back for Easter when we disappear off (hopefully to appear again sometime).

I've been looking at Slovenia and Croatia for our trip and it appears that there is some good, big, hard stuff there but I haven't looked in detail yet.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Not far off your criteria and on these shores:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=207822

In reply to The Ivanator:
Those slate multipitches are a good shout. Thanks for the reminder, added to my own list now.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Eldorado/Grimsel

Not sure of the grades - but I think they're thereabouts - Motorhead and Boulder Highway should tick the boxes. Not exactly sport, but nevertheless....

They should be in Schweiz extrem

Alternatively, study guidebooks for things put up by the Remy brothers

In reply to nniff:

There are some harder routes at Eldorado, but Motörhead ain't one of them. Boulder Highway is harder but those routes are generally of a more smeary, slabby variety and I reckon Ally probably wants steeper limestone climbing. Eldorado is a wonderful place to climb though and worth a visit.

In reply to Ben Farley:


A few more slate multi pitches up to 8b...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=644

In reply to Ally Smith:

Rätikon and Wendenstock...

Pretty much a lifetime of climbing there. Keep in mind though, that they are sportingly bolted... not sport routes.

In reply to Ben Farley:

Thanks all for the replies - Ben is on the money with looking for steep stuff not slabs.

I guess I'll be looking for a partner for the Brandler-Hasse; anyone keen?

In reply to HeMa:

Wendenstock...
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/newswire-wendenstock-coelophysis