UKC

The classic Hard Severe, Terrier's Tooth, at Chair Ladder in West Penwith, Cornwall has been damaged by the brutal storms the UK expereienced during the winter. Both the starting ledge and the first pitch has fallen down though it is rumoured to still be climbable.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68744

In reply to UKC News:

Thats a shame great route, I alsways thought it was VD not HS when was this re graded.

In reply to hdog76:

Get back under your bridge. This had unprotected technical moves in highball position. There are quite a few easier and certainly many less scary VS climbs out there.

In reply to Offwidth:


Indeed.

In reply to hdog76:

I remember doing this years and years ago, thought I was going to die!

In reply to hdog76:

The usual (better) direct start was HS. The VD start came in from the right.

In reply to UKC News:

I bet it will be HVS now.

Front Line at Pembroke is due for a fall, thought it would with me on it (big).

Be careful out there loose rock all over the place, not only sea cliffs.

In reply to GrahamD:

I think all of the (3?) starts were given VD.

In reply to Jonny2vests:


I think they were, at least at some point - or at least, the guide did that ambiguous description along the lines of "this can also be climbed direct, slightly harder" without mentioning it's about 3 grades harder.

Certainly "classic" V Diff......or was.

In reply to Jonny2vests:

The change to HS for the classic start was recent.

In reply to Offwidth: My 2000 guide has the proper quartz vein start as HS 4b which was arguably about right but it mentions that all starts used to be given VD. The middle groove start is given as 4a which was probably a bit tough at VD. The right start which traverses left a long way is correctly VD but totally misses the point and makes the route feel disjointed.

Can somebody please post a before and after photo.

In reply to UKC News:

The right hand start was fairly sporting at V Diff. The more direct start was 'only' 4b but the protection left a lot to be desired. HS sounds a bit cruel for what is a VS proposition.

In reply to Stone Idol:

This was my 1st HS lead (only 2nd HS, first HS clean). As i led the third pitch, i presume i led the 1st (can't remember), if so i would have done the right hand start. Can't remember struggling on any of it, so it may be a bit soft at HS?

Am very interested to see what grade it goes at once someone establishes a new 1st pitch.

In reply to UKC News:

Does anyone know if Expresso Bongo has gone too? Maybe not a classic like TT but a personal little favourite of mine.

Rick

In reply to UKC News:

Anyone got any actual news or photo's of this? Any ascents of pitch 1?

In reply to ChrisMurray:

Should have later this week.

In reply to UKC News:

Sun 2nd March Martin Cathrow added three new starts.

In reply to Rick Sewards:

Yep, it's gone

In reply to TK52:

Good man Martin. Grades?

In reply to Tom Last:
Excellent. Thanks. Got it pencilled in for our Easter trip to Cornwall.

In reply to UKC News:

I climbed this yesterday, roughly following the line of pitch 1a in the CC guide. It seemed clean and solid, although with spaced protection. I estimate Severe 4a, two stars. I'll put a description in my logbook, thus:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=2005

In reply to Andy2:

That's great news. The question is, does it still deserve (or get) a classic rock tick?

In reply to Offwidth:


Agreed - hdog is just showing total lack of judgement. It's not big, it's not clever.

In reply to UKC News:

In other news, Ra at Carn Barra looks like it's lost a large chunk of the crack between the first and second ledges - it looks more like an open groove. We didn't climb it so I've no idea if the grade has changed.

Mermaid's Route at Chair Ladder also looks like it's lost a big chunk of pitch one. There's a large area of red rock below where you step across Buccaneer that I'm pretty sure didn't look like that when I was last there - it's possible that the whole of the lower buttress has slipped.

In reply to stuartf:

Likewise considerable damage to Octopus at Fox Promontory.

In reply to Rog Wilko:

I've not done it but I thought the original start - not the run out 4b start - was VD. I don't think hdog deserves these reproaches Offwidth, Jonny2vests and Rog Wilko.

I have to agree, but it's easy to flame when you don't use your real name.