UKC

Shauna Coxsey has just climbed her second problem of the 8B grade with an ascent of Zarzaparilla in Albarracin, Northern Spain...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68822

In reply to UKC News:

Great stuff Shauna! And well done on Freak Brothers, looks incredible.

In reply to UKC News:

Pity about the questions...

In reply to UKC News:

Aye, crap interviewing. Bet that made Shauna feel great! Could have been more tactful ways to find out about how Shauna deals with pressure etc. Implicating in a question that someone has failed with regards to their expectations is not the way to go. Anyway, 8A is still cutting edge for British women, only three have managed to do so:

*Claire Murphy, Chlbalanke (Hueco Tanks)2003
*Mina, Teamwork (Chironico)2009
*Shauna, Pilgrim (Parisella's)2011

In reply to UKC News:

Can you you use the "Report Abuse" button for an intervier? Great send Shauna.

In reply to jakes:

There's more than that isn't there? Didn't Jules Littlefair tick a couple or did I dream that? Leah Crane?

In reply to UKC News:

Well done Shauna.

In reply to UKC News:

Cool great effort Shauna

In reply to UKC News:

Reading these comments, and then re-reading my questions I agree they were insensitive and poorly worded. I can assure it wasn't my intention to have a dig at Shauna, I was trying to find out Shauna's relationship with goals/outdoor climbing/pressure etc.

I apologise for the questions and will ensure future questioning is more carefully directed.

Duncan

In reply to Duncan Campbell - UKC:

Thank you. That is very graceful of you and much to your credit. We all make mistakes.

In reply to Duncan Campbell - UKC:

I think it's fine to ask questions that sound insensitive about performance. More interesting like that. Don't listen to the haters.

In reply to abarro81:
Well said; totally agree. The line of questioning is interesting and fair even if it could have been better worded – after all most of what all of us say all the time could have been better worded. Seems to me SC’s reply could have been better worded as well; she makes herself sound a bit defensive when I’m sure there was no need or intention to. Obviously I don’t actually know the true story but had she said, for example, something like,

“Yes, it’s true that I went out to Switzerland wanting to climb 8b but as it happened I got involved with this problem called Freak Brothers which I found really inspiring and was a big achievement for me because it’s not a style of climbing I’m usually good at/had much experience of/the usual sequence involves a really long reach and I had to do it a different way/whatever, so although it’s not as big a number I found it just as satisfying and doing it made the trip a real success for me.”

then that would have been an interesting insight. Of course I made that up, but still, a more expanded reply would have been interesting.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I agree with you.

Forgot to say good effort Shauna!

In reply to Jonny2vests:

AFAIK, Jules Littlefair's more of a sport climber, e.g. Predator 8b, Malham. You're right about Leah Crane: FA of Fuerte a Muerte 8A (Albarracin) in 2010.

"Did you do any specific training before heading out to Albarracin to prevent another trip like Switzerland?"

Eh? She had a good trip and climbed two 8as. How's that a failure of a trip? She's just told you that she felt it was one her biggest achievements and she enjoys bouldering outside as a holiday/treat. Why would she want to prevent all of this?

This is the stupid question, you're ramming the idea that she 'failed' in Switzerland down her throat.

P.S I've seen the graceful and quick apology, this is just an explanation of the offense and not any further criticism.