/ Acceptable limestone bouldering in the Peak

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Jon Stewart - on 27 Apr 2014

Are there any reasonable venues in the Peak for having a decent training-type bouldering session, in the lower/mid grades (up to V5)? I know Stoney and Rubicon (and that everything at Raven Tor is hard), but I thought a few other places have been opened up over the past few years?

Somewhere that's pleasant and fairly convenient with a reasonable quantity of stuff to go at is all that's needed. I'm not expecting good problems - this is Peak limestone! Just somewhere to go and have a productive session.

Cheers.
paul__in_sheffield - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I'll bump this as I'm interested too.
I'll throw in Rheinstor, but you probably knew that. Great traversing and problems up to the break. There's also some decent problems in Blackwell Dale, don't be put off as there is mid range stuff among the hard lines.
There was also some action to be had in Chee Dale, I remember doing stuff on Rhubarb Butress, and also Max Wall.
I'll be interested to see what else turns up...
the sheep - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

Certainly lower end but there is loads of stuff around harborough rocks that could be bouldered.
LakesWinter on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

There are a few nice problems at Raven Tor in the font 6b-6c range, though they are steep
mark20 - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Have a trawl though peakbouldering.info

There's some worthwhile stuff at Tideswell Dale
Few bits on the Wave wall at Anston and Apprentice Wall is a quality V5.
Conies Dale has a load of good (soft) V6s in a superb setting. Steep but good holds. Not very convinient but good for a summers evening en route to Wales.
Minus Ten is still the best though ;)
Scrump - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Get to Minus 10, cant go wrong.
phizz4 - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Get a copy of 'High Over Buxton' bouldering guide. Lots of limestone in that- Grinlow Hill, High Edge, Deepdale etc. Got my copy from Jo Royles in Buxton.
johncook - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Scrump:

Anywhere but Minus Ten. It's polished to hell and has more chalk than the white cliffs of Dover. Please leave it alone.
Jon Stewart - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mark20 and others:

Cheers. I'd forgotten about Rheinstor, never done the problems and it's tremendously pleasant there.

Anston - that's pretty leftfield. I was born there actually (not at the crag, never knew such a thing existed). Don't think I'll risk it tbh, although I'm sure it is among the better crags in the Rotherham area. Will certainly try Tideswell. I was waiting for some kind of personal recommendation before exploring the riskiest corners of peakbouldering.info.
Jon Stewart - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to phizz4:

> Get a copy of 'High Over Buxton' bouldering guide.

Interesting. Although I'm not certain my interest in limestone bouldering will have sufficient longevity to justify finding an obscure guidebook!

Jon Stewart - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to johncook:

He missed the first word in the thread title.
Scrump - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to johncook:

The polish is fine once you get used to it and its perfect for training.
Jon Stewart - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Scrump:

It's the worst crag I've ever been to.
mark20 - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I think once you accept that it can't get any worse then you start to enjoy it! Decent chippy too
Jon Stewart - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mark20:

Trouble is, it costs a few quid in petrol to get there and right outside my house are two perfectly good artificial concrete boulders. The newer one's ace, I've actually only been on it a couple of times...
mark20 - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

That's just reminded me, add Broomgrove Road Wall to your list. Perfect crimpy training
Jon Stewart - on 27 Apr 2014
In reply to mark20:

Oh yes. That reminded me about the wall in the Park which I used to walk past on the way to school in the late 80s...and inevitably I found this!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=198763
alicia - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I was thinking "Rheinstor" the whole time I read your question. I'd say it's definitely the right call.
deacondeacon - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Don't discount Anston, it's really, very good, and Raven Tor has a fair bit at amenable grades.
Have you tried Weedkiller Traverse? It's harder than V5 but I reckon it's right up your street and it's not a bum scraper. Good moves on good holds, with a little bit of length to it so you could use it for training.

Have you been to the Churnet? It's not limestone and it's not local enough to use for training but it's very good bouldering that makes a nice change from the usual spots.

I've got a soft spot for toms roof at Stoney too but you'll probably tell me you hate it.
Al Evans on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to deacondeacon:

Manor Park at Gogarth is named after Manor Park Wall in Glossop where the Glossop lads (Regan, Moran etc) used to train.
ads.ukclimbing.com
paul__in_sheffield - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> It's the worst crag I've ever been to.

It's not the best crag around, but Minus 10 wall is superb for building crimp strength. Jerry, Ben, Kirton et al knew what they were doing.
Given the wild westerly winds this year, it's been nice and sheltered too.
paul__in_sheffield - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to phizz4:

> Get a copy of 'High Over Buxton' bouldering guide. Lots of limestone in that- Grinlow Hill, High Edge, Deepdale etc. Got my copy from Jo Royles in Buxton.

I did, as I was spending a fair amount of last summer in Buxton.
Went to the Roaches.
paul__in_sheffield - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to mark20:

> That's just reminded me, add Broomgrove Road Wall to your list. Perfect crimpy training

Drove past the other day, looks like there's building work going on. Maybe another piece of history disappearing
ashtond6 - on 28 Apr 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:
pleasley vale? fitness traverses!


not in peak but very close
Post edited at 07:58
stp - on 05 May 2014
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

> but Minus 10 wall is superb for building crimp strength. Jerry, Ben, Kirton et al knew what they were doing.

I think it was more a case of they didn't have anywhere else to go. Once they started using indoor boards to train on Minus Ten quickly fell out of favour. Best training there was probably Jerry's bachar ladder suspended from the top of Wee Doris.

By today's standards Minus Ten is surely a sh*t place to train. Vertical, polished limestone - all of the problems are eliminates, of historical interest only I'd have thought.

Simon - on 05 May 2014
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

> It's not the best crag around, but Minus 10 wall is superb for building crimp strength. Jerry, Ben, Kirton et al knew what they were doing.


It's 2014, not 1984! Still, nice to hear the place still has it's devotees!


paul__in_sheffield - on 05 May 2014
In reply to Simon:

Interesting, that this little wall is the most used part of Stoney, and while the rest of the crag sees little traffic, there's a lot of training goes on on Minus 10. I was amazed to find out about a regular large Friday evening team of young (30 yrs+ younger than me!) who are devoted to the place.
> It's 2014, not 1984! Still, nice to hear the place still has it's devotees!
Well it's nice to see if you can do those uber classic Moon problems even now.
On a serious note, when there are bitter Westerlies making Eastern Grit difficult to climb on, it's pretty sheltered, and the polished footholds do wonders for crimp strength.

Offwidth - on 05 May 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

High Over Buxton gives grit as well as limestone problems a man as keen as you should be at least thinking about it. Ditto for the Huddersfield guide.
Duncan Bourne - on 05 May 2014
In reply to phizz4:

Seconded. I got a copy and found a fair amount to do in some very pleasant surroundings. Some of the problems are quite highball though
Brannock - on 05 May 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> Oh yes. That reminded me about the wall in the Park which I used to walk past on the way to school in the late 80s...and inevitably I found this!


Just been past this, looks kind of ok, some signs of chalk but in need of a clean. It's no terrace wall though...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2897
Jon Stewart - on 06 May 2014
In reply to deacondeacon:

> Don't discount Anston, it's really, very good, and Raven Tor has a fair bit at amenable grades.

Interesting! In fact, when I'm working at Crystal Peaks, it could be a possible after venue. I'd never have known about it were it not for this thread.

> Have you tried Weedkiller Traverse? It's harder than V5 but I reckon it's right up your street and it's not a bum scraper. Good moves on good holds, with a little bit of length to it so you could use it for training.

Might try one day. Could probably head somewhere quiet and have a nicer time though.

> Have you been to the Churnet? It's not limestone and it's not local enough to use for training but it's very good bouldering that makes a nice change from the usual spots.

Been but not really done much climbing. It's bloody miles to go for bouldering, especially of the traverses or jump-off ilk.

> I've got a soft spot for toms roof at Stoney too but you'll probably tell me you hate it.

Not tried. Sounds shit.
Jon Stewart - on 06 May 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Just to add that while I'm too busy to go exploring, the Sheaf boulder is proving an awesome training facility for steep and fingery strength stuff. Have thanked Al W for his brilliant creation.
Offwidth - on 06 May 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

I've got a few mates who swear by Anston. Nettles can be a problem though in parts. Presley is well worth a visit if you have never been.

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