UKC

I don't have many routes at the moment that I am aiming for, so thinking that coming up with a ticklist might be worth having, to give me some psych to go and do different stuff rather than just going to the usual crags. So, criteria are multi pitch, no quarries, up to VS, reasonable gear! Oh, and in Scotland.
Thanks

In reply to girlymonkey:

Have you looked in Classic Rock?

In reply to Bulls Crack:

No, I don't have it.

In reply to girlymonkey:

Bottom part of this list should get you started!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?sort=g&id=412

In reply to girlymonkey:


You can see the list of routes at http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/hardrock/classicrocklist.htm

In reply to girlymonkey:

Ever been to polldubh?

In reply to girlymonkey:

Dont wait, Scotlnad is best right now beofre the midges are out.

In reply to girlymonkey:

Traitor's Gait on the Dungeon of Buchan - just getting to the crag is an adventure, followed by four pitches of immaculate south facing granite. Would be MVS in England but is VS 4b in Scotland.

In reply to Stephen Reid - Needlesports:

Did that a few weeks ago. Your right, half the adventure is navigating the boggiest bog in scotland.

In reply to girlymonkey:

I would thought that there could be no question what should be at the top of the list - Fionn Buttress at Carnmore.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

South Ridge Direct is top of mine, although I've barely done any climbing North of the border and will be watching this thread with interest...

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

+1

... and (slightly more tame) Old Man of Stoer

In reply to girlymonkey:

Everest, surely?

In reply to Offwidth:


Indeed , I christened the garden swing seat last night, it was the great unveiling ( unwrapping of it's winter protection) and had an after work hour or so in the sunshine - completely midge free.( Loch Lomond area)

(Having said that, midges have not been so bad in the garden since I ditched the lawn and decked the garden and put all plants in pots .
If I want grass for the granddaughter to play on I have a roll of artificial grass to hand- which the midge don't like, and I don't need to cut)

Bliss!

In reply to Ramblin dave:

I've done SRD and, heresy though it is, I thought it was a bit disappointing. There's a lot of rambling for a couple of nice pitches. Lovely place to be for all that, of course. And of course a sour pleasure in doing a route which was put up in 1930 odd with a hemp rope and maybe a couple of slings tops for protection, and observing the corpses of about 15 Friends on the main pitch.

jcm

In reply to girlymonkey: These were the best multi-pitch VS routes in Scotland that I could come up with when I posted on a previous thread some years ago:

Black Mamba, Creag an Dubh Loch
Cental Buttress (VS Route), Beinn Eighe
Fionn Buttress, Carnmore Crag
Original Route, Old Man of Stoer
King Bee, Creag Dubh
Spartan Slab, Etive Slabs
Scabbard, Creagan a'Coire Etchachan
Shangri-La, Sron na Ciche
South Ridge Direct, Cir Mhor
Sword of Gideon, Sgurr a' Chaorachain
The Chasm, Buachaille Etive Mor
The Clean Sweep, Hell's Lum
The Long Climb, Ben Nevis
The Mousetrap, Creag an Dubh Loch
Wether Wall/Wither Wether, The Cobbler

See http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=370204&v=1#x5377961 for my full UK list and also a list of HVSs.

In reply to girlymonkey:

Some of my favourite routes up to VS in Scotland are:

- Traitor's Gait- agree with Stephen Reid, it's a fun adventurous day out
- South Ridge Direct, Cir Mhor
- Spartan Slab, Etive Slabs
- Rainmaker on Gearr Aonach (needs a long dry spell, and the first pitch isn't too well protected)
- Ardverikie Wall, Binnein Shuas

Ps I'm also Stirling based and climb about the same grades as you so give me a shout if you're looking for partners. I'm particularly keen to get out locally mid-week evenings now that the eves are getting a big lighter.

In reply to girlymonkey:

VS in Scotland?

That would be anything up to E2 south of the border.

Glen Eteve would make a good spot to play. Spartan Slab may fit the bill.

In reply to girlymonkey:

only ever done the one route on Skye (April Crack) but damn, that gabbro!

In reply to girlymonkey:

Thanks for these, I have done a few of them, but not many. I'll start looking them up and try to get to them

In reply to girlymonkey:

As always on these threads, people always go to the top of the suggested grade band. Don't forget the Severes etc: Raeburns Arete, Route II, 1944 Route on the Ben; Punster's Crack, Recess Route the Cobbler, Auld Nick Hell's Lum, Grey Slab Coire Sputan Dearg, Integrity link up Coire Laggan, January Jigsaw, Shackle Route Buachaille, Nirvana Wall Aonach Dubh etcetcetc

In reply to girlymonkey:

rope? http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/this-new-crag-in-majorca-is-really-frea...

or bouldering?
http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/the-bouldering-on-majorca-is-really-har...

In reply to girlymonkey:

Here's a few covering the full range:

Agag's Groove, Eagle Ridge, Arrow Route, June Crack and another vote for Shangri-La

In reply to Mark Bannan:

Crypt Route, or look at Classic Rock and do the three route link up that finishes with Crypt Route, I did that with two freshers from the Uni Club and it was a great day out.

The VS routes on Ben Eighe? Piggots and Central Buttress I think? The cliff is massive, walk around the side to get the full impact of seeing it for the first time.

The rock on Stac Pollaidh is awesome, anything there would be good.

One of my favourite belay views is from Diabeg

To be honest Classic Rock is your best start; http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=8