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Okay – my attempt below. If I’ve missed anyone please throw something at me…
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=596558&v=1
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows is the bible for training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing: http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb... with information about scheduling a training regime to peak in time for a trip/competition can be found here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/periodisation.pdf
Psyche video for the week (because I will never get bored of Nina Caprez on Silbergeier) youtube.com/watch?v=AN5CDewKVdk&
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
mattrm – A nice multipitch is always a good day out and glad to hear you are enjoying climbing. For a tight shoulder it also really helps if you can persuade someone to stick their finger into the pain spot as far as you can bear. That gets in deep and then rolling with tennis ball moves it away.
IainRUK – Good mileage despite the coaching. Have you got any races planned yet?
mrchewy – Physio for the arm sounds like the best answer – maybe adjust the style of the routes you do for a bit, work on footwork on slabs and do some pushy stuff in The Peak. As a weird coincidence I wrote your comment for Fit Club on Thursday night, then headed to Reading to lead. The (ridiculously brilliant) kid on the line next to me and her mum were telling the intructor about how they had spent the week with Caff and how he'd picked up a new mat from DMM as he'd driven off accidentally leaving one under his van the week before...
grubes – 2 mins off 5k…sounds like some good shoes ;op What are they? Did you get anything done in the hotel gym this week?
Joughton – Some good work on slate. It’s okay. We’ll allow you to be merely impressive for a week as long as you return to ridiculously impressive next week…sounds like you’ve got something good for us with the milestone!
hms – It would definitely not do to squeak in front of Lucy Creamer :op Sounds like a great week with variety and volume of training. When’s Kaly again?
Exile – Good work on starting the cardio fitness. How are your legs feeling? What’s the next STG for rock?
Nick Russell – Consistent running performance and making good injury decisions this week. With careful route selection you should still be able to get a lot in on Lundy. Can’t wait to hear about it.
Just Tintin – 6 days of climbing training this week… is it sustainable?!
Ally Smith – With all the moving chaos you’ve got a good excuse to ease back the training and sort your body out. Maybe put Mecca on ice for a bit and really work the physio so you can return for a more satisfactory go?
Luke Owens – Great work on Pen Trwyn and The Diamond. The psyche is back! How was Font?
Dandan82 – It won’t take long to get the stamina back. Enjoy getting back on the rock, and transferring the 60% effort feeling to linked moves on routes. The sea kayaking sounds like a great adventure! It’s always nice to have a good bit of cross-training now and then, and to get another perspective on the rock.
Humperdink – 56M with ease! How was the race?
biscuit – Keeping it ticking and still getting some good work done. Readjusting the STGs to your new realistic programme is definitely where it starts. Fingers crossed that the waiting list comes through for the UTLD50.
Alun – Ah the old muscle-weight dichotomy…I think you and Ally are in the same place on this one. Some good realistic STG – enjoy getting back into climbing!
alexstudly – Welcome to Fit Club! Winter is a good time to sort out your power endurance, so get some route volume in their alongside the boulder laps and board work. Looking at your mix of climbing, if you’re comfortable on V6 and 7a, maybe you can get a lot out of working your trad grade? (Or perhaps not your thing)
Goonie – Good stint ticking off the unfinished business and a well-earned week off. Falling off the Marie Rose? That’s sooooo Ondra… Dumby is waiting!
Jamming Dodger – Epic target race. Have you set some goals for progress for the next year?
AWOL:
JimmyKay
Tubb93
Curious Yellow
Sankey
Post edited at 07:38
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks for doing the stats Mr Tintin,
A great week this week, back into routine and training hard!
M: back/biceps; seated rows, pull downs, chin ups, bicep curls
T: Core; crunches, front levers, l hangs
W: Chest; bench, incline fly, weighted dips.
T: Boulder; 30-40 problems up to v7, Ancap 4xv4, 4xv5, 4xv3
F: lay dining room floor
S: climbing dancing ledge; 5+, 6a 6a 6a+ 6c+ 7a
S: maybe CWP fingerboard session?
First off, injury check: Fingers - completely fixed!
Elbows - survived the most intense week for a long time completely intact!
I thought I would push it with a back session and two climbing sessions this week, but with some cast iron adherence to my warm up/down routine, things are looking pretty rosy! Sure, the elbows are a little tired this morning, but that could be expected of anyone after a tough week, the important part is they didn't ache whilst climbing either day this week, even after the thugfest I put them through yesterday, good stuff.
Climbing on Thursday was great, my partner couldn't make it so I was confined to the boulder room, so not a great chance to build my stamina, but I ticked every route I managed the previous week, plus the v7 that I couldn't previously catch the top hold on went down with no drama at all. I also did a cool v6 that was a set of bad pinches in a vertical line, really weird, but again I couldn't touch it last week, went in 3 goes this week.
Climbing yesterday at dancing ledge was just glorious, overcast and still so a little grimy but lovely temperature. It's a shame I didn't get any big ticks, the 7a and the 6c+ didn't go clean (turns out I have ticked the 7a previously, oops) but it was good mileage on rock and I'm feeling very positive about it, I'd forgotten how much I like the style at dancing ledge.
I'll see how I feel when I get up but I might add a fingerboard session in to round off a great week.
STG: clean a long 7a+ indoor.
sign of the Vulcan (7b+) outdoor
Build stamina
maintain injury free state!
MTG: Enjoy Font in October, no grade chasing!
Redpoint 8a this year
LTG: redpoint 8b
Thanks for doing the stats Mr Tintin,
A great week this week, back into routine and training hard!
M: back/biceps; seated rows, pull downs, chin ups, bicep curls
T: Core; crunches, front levers, l hangs
W: Chest; bench, incline fly, weighted dips.
T: Boulder; 30-40 problems up to v7, Ancap 4xv4, 4xv5, 4xv3
F: lay dining room floor
S: climbing dancing ledge; 5+, 6a 6a 6a+ 6c+ 7a
S: maybe CWP fingerboard session?
First off, injury check: Fingers - completely fixed!
Elbows - survived the most intense week for a long time completely intact!
I thought I would push it with a back session and two climbing sessions this week, but with some cast iron adherence to my warm up/down routine, things are looking pretty rosy! Sure, the elbows are a little tired this morning, but that could be expected of anyone after a tough week, the important part is they didn't ache whilst climbing either day this week, even after the thugfest I put them through yesterday, good stuff.
Climbing on Thursday was great, my partner couldn't make it so I was confined to the boulder room, so not a great chance to build my stamina, but I ticked every route I managed the previous week, plus the v7 that I couldn't previously catch the top hold on went down with no drama at all. I also did a cool v6 that was a set of bad pinches in a vertical line, really weird, but again I couldn't touch it last week, went in 3 goes this week.
Climbing yesterday at dancing ledge was just glorious, overcast and still so a little grimy but lovely temperature. It's a shame I didn't get any big ticks, the 7a and the 6c+ didn't go clean (turns out I have ticked the 7a previously, oops) but it was good mileage on rock and I'm feeling very positive about it, I'd forgotten how much I like the style at dancing ledge.
I'll see how I feel when I get up but I might add a fingerboard session in to round off a great week.
STG: clean a long 7a+ indoor.
sign of the Vulcan (7b+) outdoor
Build stamina
maintain injury free state!
MTG: Enjoy Font in October, no grade chasing!
Redpoint 8a this year
LTG: redpoint 8b
In reply to Just Tintin:
So I'm back after going AWOL for a bit - partly because I was pretty busy and not doing much training, and partly because I didn't really feel posting was helping me that much (too many good excuses!). Anyway, I have 4 weeks until a (mainly) climbing trip to Sicily and a LOT of work today.
Current status after a couple of weeks enforced rest from climbing:
- 1 injured foot (I think a minor stress fracture?) so am being good at resting it which means no running (arrgghhh) and being careful about climbing. It doesn't like being crammed into tight shoes, and am a bit worried about landing on it bouldering
- forearm / elbow - seems to be ok - rest from climbing prob did good, but still get tight/achey tendons
- skin knackered, but hoping it'll toughen up
- core - not existant - honestly, it's terrible!
- strength and power low - basically due to not having tried hard enough this year
- leading head - probably about as bad as its ever been. Incidentally, for those who know my extreme dislike of falling, I took a whipper a month or so ago and it was totally fine. I thought this may help my falling practice/leading head but unfortunately it hasn't - perhaps didn't get back climbing quick enough
Weight - scales broken but put on a fair bit of weight after a realtively inactive holiday in Ireland (involving a lot of food). Feeling podgy.
Short term goals - Sicily - get comfortable with leading near my limit again, 4 x 7a or above (I think this should be realistic if I can get some fitness / strength back and leading head is ok)
Long term goal - 7c - I was hoping that was going to be this year, but I seem to have acquired quite a few projects without being able to spend enough time on any of them to get things ticked.
This week:
M - nothing (unpacking from Ireland)
T - 30min swim - felt like I was about to drown for the first few lengths (haven't been proper swimming for while!) but got into it
W - nothing
T - Climbing at Vauxhall Wall - ok session, fingers felt really stiff and skin got sore pretty quickly. Bouldered up to V3.
F - 30min swim - felt good, think I need to try and get up earlier and go for longer though!
S - Bouldering at Reach - did some easier problems to warm up then stamina circuit (worried about doing hard problems and falling onto foot). Tried some problems in the monkey room but core is so weak I just couldn't keep my body up! :-S Core and pull ups/press ups to finsh
S - 22 mile bike ride - took a couple of hours, but mainly because I was route finding and it's off-road so fairly slow. Nice though. 5 min intensive core workout - about as much as I can manage at the moment...
Goals for this week:
1 x swim
1-2 x climb (I long session, 1 short if I can fit it in)
1 x cycle to work
Daily 5 min core workout
Think that's probably all I'll be able to fit in as off to Scotland early Sat to support the boy on his LEJOG trip.
Couple of questions for the magic minds of FC:
- Given I have 4 weeks to go, any thoughts on what I would be best focusing climbing training on? Usually I struggle with power endurance / stamina, and rely on strength to see my through, but my strength is feeling pretty low at the moment. Should I just try and get as much general climbing in as possible, or be more focused in my sessions?
- I've started swimming to try and lose podge (as can't run) but a bit worried it'll start making my skin soft - any other Fit Clubbers tried combining the two, and did you find this was an issue?
P.S. Curious Yellow is on climbing hols for a few weeks so ma not be posting.
So I'm back after going AWOL for a bit - partly because I was pretty busy and not doing much training, and partly because I didn't really feel posting was helping me that much (too many good excuses!). Anyway, I have 4 weeks until a (mainly) climbing trip to Sicily and a LOT of work today.
Current status after a couple of weeks enforced rest from climbing:
- 1 injured foot (I think a minor stress fracture?) so am being good at resting it which means no running (arrgghhh) and being careful about climbing. It doesn't like being crammed into tight shoes, and am a bit worried about landing on it bouldering
- forearm / elbow - seems to be ok - rest from climbing prob did good, but still get tight/achey tendons
- skin knackered, but hoping it'll toughen up
- core - not existant - honestly, it's terrible!
- strength and power low - basically due to not having tried hard enough this year
- leading head - probably about as bad as its ever been. Incidentally, for those who know my extreme dislike of falling, I took a whipper a month or so ago and it was totally fine. I thought this may help my falling practice/leading head but unfortunately it hasn't - perhaps didn't get back climbing quick enough
Weight - scales broken but put on a fair bit of weight after a realtively inactive holiday in Ireland (involving a lot of food). Feeling podgy.
Short term goals - Sicily - get comfortable with leading near my limit again, 4 x 7a or above (I think this should be realistic if I can get some fitness / strength back and leading head is ok)
Long term goal - 7c - I was hoping that was going to be this year, but I seem to have acquired quite a few projects without being able to spend enough time on any of them to get things ticked.
This week:
M - nothing (unpacking from Ireland)
T - 30min swim - felt like I was about to drown for the first few lengths (haven't been proper swimming for while!) but got into it
W - nothing
T - Climbing at Vauxhall Wall - ok session, fingers felt really stiff and skin got sore pretty quickly. Bouldered up to V3.
F - 30min swim - felt good, think I need to try and get up earlier and go for longer though!
S - Bouldering at Reach - did some easier problems to warm up then stamina circuit (worried about doing hard problems and falling onto foot). Tried some problems in the monkey room but core is so weak I just couldn't keep my body up! :-S Core and pull ups/press ups to finsh
S - 22 mile bike ride - took a couple of hours, but mainly because I was route finding and it's off-road so fairly slow. Nice though. 5 min intensive core workout - about as much as I can manage at the moment...
Goals for this week:
1 x swim
1-2 x climb (I long session, 1 short if I can fit it in)
1 x cycle to work
Daily 5 min core workout
Think that's probably all I'll be able to fit in as off to Scotland early Sat to support the boy on his LEJOG trip.
Couple of questions for the magic minds of FC:
- Given I have 4 weeks to go, any thoughts on what I would be best focusing climbing training on? Usually I struggle with power endurance / stamina, and rely on strength to see my through, but my strength is feeling pretty low at the moment. Should I just try and get as much general climbing in as possible, or be more focused in my sessions?
- I've started swimming to try and lose podge (as can't run) but a bit worried it'll start making my skin soft - any other Fit Clubbers tried combining the two, and did you find this was an issue?
P.S. Curious Yellow is on climbing hols for a few weeks so ma not be posting.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Finally starting to feel my pre finger twinge strength seeping back. 1-4-7 on the campus boards feel easier than ever. Sweeping through all the hard problems at the wall in a session (might be more to do with a soft set) and breezing things outside. Ticked off a problem today I've tried a bit in the past which felt easy once I'd warmed up and worked it out. I need a project this winter. I want to climb something hard. I'll update my stats later.
Finally starting to feel my pre finger twinge strength seeping back. 1-4-7 on the campus boards feel easier than ever. Sweeping through all the hard problems at the wall in a session (might be more to do with a soft set) and breezing things outside. Ticked off a problem today I've tried a bit in the past which felt easy once I'd warmed up and worked it out. I need a project this winter. I want to climb something hard. I'll update my stats later.
In reply to Just Tintin: Cheers for the stats JT!
Had a good week this week with a trip to Kilnsey for a couple of days to start with, and a couple of good bouldering sessions at the wall too.
I was climbing at Kilnsey with Chris, who is at a similar onsight level to me, and a much stronger redpointer, so it was good to have some healthy competition at the crag to help me push myself and try harder routes than I might have, as well as trying harder on the routes themselves!
Mon - Warmed up on the Directissima. Felt awful, really insecure, didn't trust my feet, over gripped, and flash pumped. Failed onsight attempt on a 7b called Ground Effect, completely powered out after the bouldery start. The plus side was I took a good lob throwing for the jug at the end of the hard sequence which psyched me up and reminded me it's okay to fall. Chris had an flash attempt, putting the clips in, on the Ashes, a classic 7c+, with some brilliant beta from a guy who'd just redpointed it after loads of work, so knew the route really well. He fell after pumping out clipping from the boss (I'll assume you Yorkshire crew will know 'The Boss'), so I wasn't feeling very confident, particularly after wathcing Chris crush the 7b and then fall. I gave it a go anyway and made it to the 'Eyes' with plenty in the tank, had a good big shakeout and sprinted up the (absolutely brilliant) headwall. Got to the boss, nearly psyched myself out getting the 'Ear', then totally nailed the crux move to the jug rail, and topped it! First 7c+ flash, incredibly psyched as you can tell from the ridiculously long description! Tried flashing comedy too but it was far too powerful, I couldn't get near it. Finished off trying The Thumb for something to maybe redpoint the next day but found it too burly.
Tue - slept at the crag so an early start! Warmed up on a 6c+ to the right, and then a 7a/b (depending on where you look) called Alternative Optional Extra. Cool route, very powerful. Chris onsighted Frankie, with me hiding round the corner to avoid beta! I was tempted to ask but decided against it (there's the competitive side coming through) and went for the onsight. Nearly came off the big undercut move, and then again on the blind finish, but held in together on some tiny footholds to top it. Only 7b+ but definitely a harder onsight than a couple of the 7cs I've done - a great battle at the top. Called it a day, absolutely shattered after four days on.
Wed - rest
Thurs - MCC bouldering. Upstairs where the problems are short, the angle is steep, and I am weak! Still, flashed one V6-8, got the three others after a few battles, and a soft V8+. Finished off with my first go on a Campus board. I'm rubbish! Could only do 1-3-5 leading left, but not right.
Fri - rest
Sat - Rockover bouldering. Nothing had grades on so I don't even know what I did. Campus again, this time managing 1-3-5 leading with either hand, on the middle-sized rungs too. Think they must be closer at Rockover...
Sun - rest
So a good couple of days at Kilnsey, chuffed with the two classic ticks in good style! But disappointed with the recurring theme of 'powering out' after stringing together a long section of hard moves. Definite lack of power-endurance, I've realised in my rush to get good for Norway I skipped straight from Strength to Endurance. Oops.
The plan is to start all over again, now I've ticked the summers goals of E6 onsight and 8a redpoint. I don't think I'll be able to push my grade again until I get stronger again so I'll restart my periodisation all over again. Starting with some power/strength from campusing/fingerboarding, moving on to P.E in a month or so with some bouldering in Northumberland hopefully!
Sorry for the long post, lots to mull over.
Cheers, Jake
Had a good week this week with a trip to Kilnsey for a couple of days to start with, and a couple of good bouldering sessions at the wall too.
I was climbing at Kilnsey with Chris, who is at a similar onsight level to me, and a much stronger redpointer, so it was good to have some healthy competition at the crag to help me push myself and try harder routes than I might have, as well as trying harder on the routes themselves!
Mon - Warmed up on the Directissima. Felt awful, really insecure, didn't trust my feet, over gripped, and flash pumped. Failed onsight attempt on a 7b called Ground Effect, completely powered out after the bouldery start. The plus side was I took a good lob throwing for the jug at the end of the hard sequence which psyched me up and reminded me it's okay to fall. Chris had an flash attempt, putting the clips in, on the Ashes, a classic 7c+, with some brilliant beta from a guy who'd just redpointed it after loads of work, so knew the route really well. He fell after pumping out clipping from the boss (I'll assume you Yorkshire crew will know 'The Boss'), so I wasn't feeling very confident, particularly after wathcing Chris crush the 7b and then fall. I gave it a go anyway and made it to the 'Eyes' with plenty in the tank, had a good big shakeout and sprinted up the (absolutely brilliant) headwall. Got to the boss, nearly psyched myself out getting the 'Ear', then totally nailed the crux move to the jug rail, and topped it! First 7c+ flash, incredibly psyched as you can tell from the ridiculously long description! Tried flashing comedy too but it was far too powerful, I couldn't get near it. Finished off trying The Thumb for something to maybe redpoint the next day but found it too burly.
Tue - slept at the crag so an early start! Warmed up on a 6c+ to the right, and then a 7a/b (depending on where you look) called Alternative Optional Extra. Cool route, very powerful. Chris onsighted Frankie, with me hiding round the corner to avoid beta! I was tempted to ask but decided against it (there's the competitive side coming through) and went for the onsight. Nearly came off the big undercut move, and then again on the blind finish, but held in together on some tiny footholds to top it. Only 7b+ but definitely a harder onsight than a couple of the 7cs I've done - a great battle at the top. Called it a day, absolutely shattered after four days on.
Wed - rest
Thurs - MCC bouldering. Upstairs where the problems are short, the angle is steep, and I am weak! Still, flashed one V6-8, got the three others after a few battles, and a soft V8+. Finished off with my first go on a Campus board. I'm rubbish! Could only do 1-3-5 leading left, but not right.
Fri - rest
Sat - Rockover bouldering. Nothing had grades on so I don't even know what I did. Campus again, this time managing 1-3-5 leading with either hand, on the middle-sized rungs too. Think they must be closer at Rockover...
Sun - rest
So a good couple of days at Kilnsey, chuffed with the two classic ticks in good style! But disappointed with the recurring theme of 'powering out' after stringing together a long section of hard moves. Definite lack of power-endurance, I've realised in my rush to get good for Norway I skipped straight from Strength to Endurance. Oops.
The plan is to start all over again, now I've ticked the summers goals of E6 onsight and 8a redpoint. I don't think I'll be able to push my grade again until I get stronger again so I'll restart my periodisation all over again. Starting with some power/strength from campusing/fingerboarding, moving on to P.E in a month or so with some bouldering in Northumberland hopefully!
Sorry for the long post, lots to mull over.
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks Tintin, It is 3 weeks to Kaly now - exciting anf not a little scarey. Busy week this week;
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute then bulk session with D2 acting as psycho-coach. 16 routes in 2 sets of 8, minimal rests in each 8, lots of 6c in varying styles, knackered
W - cycle commute then UCR singles trying to work some harder stuff. 2 goes at 7a inc 1 impressive lob. 1 go on 7b - the top is hard to work even on TR as it is well to one side of the lower-off. Not helped by someone numptying up the slab on one side of me, totally oblivious to the fact they were in my fall zone.
T - TCA accumulator round 5. Best first attempt of any of the rounds so far. Think 2 more may go down with practise/luck
F - Wintours leap. 6c which I'd done before but felt far harder this time. Took a couple of tries with some massive falls as the clipping is not friendly! Then working a nice 7a - delicate slab stuff then a couple of desperate reachy moves on little nodules to the 'thank God for that' jug. After several TR goes, got it clean 1st lead.
S - Bourton Combe. After a shower in the morning only 1 route was dry, a 7a+. Worked it then got it clean 1st lead attempt, as did D1 - her first at the grade. Nice route - the whole thing is only ~9 moves long, but long moves.
S - TRX, 2xupper, 2xcore
Coming week D1 and I are off to Clywd for a few days - hoping for some good ticks!
Thanks Tintin, It is 3 weeks to Kaly now - exciting anf not a little scarey. Busy week this week;
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute then bulk session with D2 acting as psycho-coach. 16 routes in 2 sets of 8, minimal rests in each 8, lots of 6c in varying styles, knackered
W - cycle commute then UCR singles trying to work some harder stuff. 2 goes at 7a inc 1 impressive lob. 1 go on 7b - the top is hard to work even on TR as it is well to one side of the lower-off. Not helped by someone numptying up the slab on one side of me, totally oblivious to the fact they were in my fall zone.
T - TCA accumulator round 5. Best first attempt of any of the rounds so far. Think 2 more may go down with practise/luck
F - Wintours leap. 6c which I'd done before but felt far harder this time. Took a couple of tries with some massive falls as the clipping is not friendly! Then working a nice 7a - delicate slab stuff then a couple of desperate reachy moves on little nodules to the 'thank God for that' jug. After several TR goes, got it clean 1st lead.
S - Bourton Combe. After a shower in the morning only 1 route was dry, a 7a+. Worked it then got it clean 1st lead attempt, as did D1 - her first at the grade. Nice route - the whole thing is only ~9 moves long, but long moves.
S - TRX, 2xupper, 2xcore
Coming week D1 and I are off to Clywd for a few days - hoping for some good ticks!
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks for doing fit club, kegs are fine
Aims:
Autumn: Tick over with 6c+ / 7a red point. Maybe
Winter start with VI 7
Spring 7b RP
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 50min fell run
T: 2hrs climbing. Cadillac, 6c+***, Millside Scar, couple of top ropes
W: 50min fell run
T: Nothing
F: 45min beach run
S: 45min X country run
S: 2hrs climbing. Cadillac, 6c+***, Millside Scar, couple of top ropes, ready to lead now
Weight: 11st 9lb
Cardio going well, probably need to do fewer but longer runs ideally. Having fun playing on Cadillac and interested to look at the 7b next to it shortly.
Thanks for doing fit club, kegs are fine
Aims:
Autumn: Tick over with 6c+ / 7a red point. Maybe
Winter start with VI 7
Spring 7b RP
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 50min fell run
T: 2hrs climbing. Cadillac, 6c+***, Millside Scar, couple of top ropes
W: 50min fell run
T: Nothing
F: 45min beach run
S: 45min X country run
S: 2hrs climbing. Cadillac, 6c+***, Millside Scar, couple of top ropes, ready to lead now
Weight: 11st 9lb
Cardio going well, probably need to do fewer but longer runs ideally. Having fun playing on Cadillac and interested to look at the 7b next to it shortly.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks for doing this.. 390 weeks old..
Not a great week very hot and humid. but got better until I tweaked my hamstring
m: 11 miles total, 5.5 miles am, same pm
t: 5 miles am, pm: 7.5 miles
w: am: 7 miles with 3 at MP, 6:00 min miles. pm: 5 with XC team.
t: am: 12 miles 6;50 pace, pm: 5miles XC coaching
f: am: 4.8 miles steady. pm: 7 miles, with track 3 x 1 mile, 2 x 200m miles around 5:25 pace
s: am: first meet of the year, lads struggled. girls 4th, just missed 3rd. pm: 10.6 miles easy hamstring sore.
s: 5.1 miles easy, hamstring sore
Really enjoyed the first meet, very very tough course, basically a hilly trail running route, 3 laps in very hot and humid conditions, over 35 C..
The guys suffered but many haven't trained all summer so we've only had them for 3 weeks so we expected that. The girls did well, 3 around the top 10, but all 5 strong runs so we did well as a team beating some solid div 3 NCAA programs, so pretty happy. Really nice camaraderie in the team, working well together so need to build on this and have a strong season. It looks like the girls could really be in the mix for the conference championship.
Thanks for doing this.. 390 weeks old..
Not a great week very hot and humid. but got better until I tweaked my hamstring
m: 11 miles total, 5.5 miles am, same pm
t: 5 miles am, pm: 7.5 miles
w: am: 7 miles with 3 at MP, 6:00 min miles. pm: 5 with XC team.
t: am: 12 miles 6;50 pace, pm: 5miles XC coaching
f: am: 4.8 miles steady. pm: 7 miles, with track 3 x 1 mile, 2 x 200m miles around 5:25 pace
s: am: first meet of the year, lads struggled. girls 4th, just missed 3rd. pm: 10.6 miles easy hamstring sore.
s: 5.1 miles easy, hamstring sore
Really enjoyed the first meet, very very tough course, basically a hilly trail running route, 3 laps in very hot and humid conditions, over 35 C..
The guys suffered but many haven't trained all summer so we've only had them for 3 weeks so we expected that. The girls did well, 3 around the top 10, but all 5 strong runs so we did well as a team beating some solid div 3 NCAA programs, so pretty happy. Really nice camaraderie in the team, working well together so need to build on this and have a strong season. It looks like the girls could really be in the mix for the conference championship.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Yeah - you're right about needing to sort my sh!t out. The combination of moving, a shitely busy week at work with an intern starting, and return of some niggling injuries mean this week has been declared a rest/physio week.
LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Do “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
MTG (Autumn 2014):
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities.
- On-sight 8a in Kalymnos
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca & Waddage, Tor
- K5, Cheedale Cornice
- Re-visit trad & try and on-sight an E6?
- Ramp up an-cap and aero-cap aiming for a peak in the autumn; gentle finger-boarding to re-hab ring finger.
- Aim for fighting weight of 73kg and 6.4% BF – 74.4kg & 6.5% (surprise result considering the amount of cake & booze that has passed my lips recently)
STG (Next week)
- Shoulder physio everyday
- Ice finger & wrist everyday
- 2x core sessions/week
- Stretch everyday
- Consider some pull-ups if 1st aim is successful
Last week:
M - back clicked back into place whilst at work, so decided to go out to the Tor and test my mettle. Shite go on Mecca, got on an 8a and did it in a session.
T - Rest - can’t remember what I did
W - Super tired, but managed some aero-cap. 3x 7a/+ OS.
T - Right to Roam, 8a 2nd go. Shite conditions to boulder.
F - Rest
S - Malham. Crocked my wrist and ring finger was hurting too. Repeated crux to top link on Unjustified (8b+). Discovered some minor beta tweaks.
S - Cat & Fiddle there & back. 38km 1.5hr. Sore bum. Shoulder physio and wrist/finger icing.
Yeah - you're right about needing to sort my sh!t out. The combination of moving, a shitely busy week at work with an intern starting, and return of some niggling injuries mean this week has been declared a rest/physio week.
LTG (End 2014):
- Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Do “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
MTG (Autumn 2014):
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities.
- On-sight 8a in Kalymnos
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca & Waddage, Tor
- K5, Cheedale Cornice
- Re-visit trad & try and on-sight an E6?
- Ramp up an-cap and aero-cap aiming for a peak in the autumn; gentle finger-boarding to re-hab ring finger.
- Aim for fighting weight of 73kg and 6.4% BF – 74.4kg & 6.5% (surprise result considering the amount of cake & booze that has passed my lips recently)
STG (Next week)
- Shoulder physio everyday
- Ice finger & wrist everyday
- 2x core sessions/week
- Stretch everyday
- Consider some pull-ups if 1st aim is successful
Last week:
M - back clicked back into place whilst at work, so decided to go out to the Tor and test my mettle. Shite go on Mecca, got on an 8a and did it in a session.
T - Rest - can’t remember what I did
W - Super tired, but managed some aero-cap. 3x 7a/+ OS.
T - Right to Roam, 8a 2nd go. Shite conditions to boulder.
F - Rest
S - Malham. Crocked my wrist and ring finger was hurting too. Repeated crux to top link on Unjustified (8b+). Discovered some minor beta tweaks.
S - Cat & Fiddle there & back. 38km 1.5hr. Sore bum. Shoulder physio and wrist/finger icing.
In reply to Ally Smith:
AJM has passed on your email address so I'll contact you this evening, without it going in to spam. Realise your connectivity may still be duff. Long weekend sounds totally doable. Not precious about where, but Chulilla did sound excellent!
AJM has passed on your email address so I'll contact you this evening, without it going in to spam. Realise your connectivity may still be duff. Long weekend sounds totally doable. Not precious about where, but Chulilla did sound excellent!
In reply to Just Tintin: AWOL! That won't do at all then.
Yep, been two weeks of distractions, went to a music festival last weekend, then was a bit ill last week, anyway, got out at Kilnsey yesterday. Couple of goes on Direct Flight (just to confirm I still hate it) and a quick top rope on Sticky Wicket.
Hopefully things will come together, it is Sendtember after all.
Anyway, got a 2 week trip to Chullia booked for November so plenty to look forward too.
Yep, been two weeks of distractions, went to a music festival last weekend, then was a bit ill last week, anyway, got out at Kilnsey yesterday. Couple of goes on Direct Flight (just to confirm I still hate it) and a quick top rope on Sticky Wicket.
Hopefully things will come together, it is Sendtember after all.
Anyway, got a 2 week trip to Chullia booked for November so plenty to look forward too.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks justin not as much as I would of liked
Goal:
Back up to 7a
7a in chorro
lose weight - no weigh in but fell skinnier
get core strength and body tension back - This may not be as bad as I think.
Complete my triathlon
Not finish last at battle of britain
M: recovery Swim
T: Gym. 25min tread mill run
W: rest
T: rest
F: rest
S: Swimming lesson. grim weather
S: Stony edge. 1hr up hill walk in. Climbed like a punter. 35 min walk back out.
Terrible week. Poor training and personally
Booked onto battle of Britain at the depot. This is the first time I have not been on holiday when it has been on in leeds. So I am attending even though I have my triathlon that morning. If anyone goes and sees a pale looking guy in glasses struggling to stand and failing on the warm ups. say hello
Thanks justin not as much as I would of liked
Goal:
Back up to 7a
7a in chorro
lose weight - no weigh in but fell skinnier
get core strength and body tension back - This may not be as bad as I think.
Complete my triathlon
Not finish last at battle of britain
M: recovery Swim
T: Gym. 25min tread mill run
W: rest
T: rest
F: rest
S: Swimming lesson. grim weather
S: Stony edge. 1hr up hill walk in. Climbed like a punter. 35 min walk back out.
Terrible week. Poor training and personally
Booked onto battle of Britain at the depot. This is the first time I have not been on holiday when it has been on in leeds. So I am attending even though I have my triathlon that morning. If anyone goes and sees a pale looking guy in glasses struggling to stand and failing on the warm ups. say hello
Post edited at 12:20
In reply to Just Tintin:
Cheers Tinners - yeah, that would be Catrin. She's only 14 and only been climbing a few years, really nice family.
Been watching the shoulder this week.
Mon - Needed rest day.
Tue - Saw physio for two hours. Strain to the lat dorsal, one hour on the legs - ouch ouch ouch. Running in the Alps is obviously tough on them then. Asked about the bruising from the flash pump I get in the left arm and she mentioned a few things, non of what seem to fit on further reading but warming up properly at the crag is a must from now on.
Wed - Pinnacle. Actually just top-roped easy stuff up to 6a+, 3 routes at a time. Stopped when the shoulder complained.
Thu - High Tor. Debauchery second. First pitch was great, the second had me off when I was avoiding pulling with the left arm... still not competent using monos it would seem! Terric climb for E1. Watched some lad onsight E5 and then climbed up to the cave to belay my mate on some 7b+. Usually he'd be thinking onsight but he got nowhere fast. "Sandbag" was his conclusion. FA by Simon Lee it would seem...
Fri - Bamford. Seconded Gargoyle Flake for a warm up, then got on a HVS 5b lead. So greasy and I remembered why I hate grit when it's warm. Got scared of the sliding hand on the crux and sat. Miffed at myself, went for it and got it anyway. No logbook tick tho. Moved down to Salmon Slab. Jordon used a top rope on the E6, I led a VS 5a. Oh, had a beer for lunch and went soloing the easy stuff that's there, which is quite pleasant as there's far less polish than there is at Stanage. Then seconded a Eng 5c thing cleanly before we left. Quite chuffed with that, as it felt pretty easy. Roll on the winter...
Sat - Climbing Station. Entered the fun category in the comp. Think I flashed to 12/13 but then the shoulder was unhappy and I was with my physio - just messed around after that. I really like the bouldering here, good setting at my sort grades and the hard problems on the slabs don't tend to have V0 holds in the way.
Sun - Utterly trashed from my birthday the night before. Rolled in around 4pm, covered in make-up, having worn a few wigs but managing to avoid wearing a 1960s Star Trek crew dress. I guess going to a gay engagement party attended by cyber goths, transvestites, transexuals and being rather mullered at the after party was always going to be interesting. The world I was born into would have frowned but thankfully things have changed greatly in the last 49 years. I think I'll do something rather different for my 50th however!
My performance is erratic in general. I change rock nearly every day out and it just takes a while to get back into the groove. So I've decided this winter to just focus on grit. Forget about Wales, boulder lots and hopefully end the winter with an E3 lead. I've seen a few grit ones I fancy.
I tend to wander along the crag, look at lines I like the look of and then look at the guidebook. Anything that I'd ignored just doesn't get looked at, even if it's at the grade I need to be doing to progress. This has found me at various points this year choosing to second a Vdiff, taking whippers on lead on an E3 6a and trying to dry the crux holds on an E1 whilst trying to solo it. I've logged 3xE1 but only 2xHVS but in all honesty, I tend to look at the tech grade more. I feel bomber on eng 4b, fairly solid on 4c and not led much 5a but I'd expect to onsight it. Above that anything can happen.
I'm rambling - soz.
Cheers Tinners - yeah, that would be Catrin. She's only 14 and only been climbing a few years, really nice family.
Been watching the shoulder this week.
Mon - Needed rest day.
Tue - Saw physio for two hours. Strain to the lat dorsal, one hour on the legs - ouch ouch ouch. Running in the Alps is obviously tough on them then. Asked about the bruising from the flash pump I get in the left arm and she mentioned a few things, non of what seem to fit on further reading but warming up properly at the crag is a must from now on.
Wed - Pinnacle. Actually just top-roped easy stuff up to 6a+, 3 routes at a time. Stopped when the shoulder complained.
Thu - High Tor. Debauchery second. First pitch was great, the second had me off when I was avoiding pulling with the left arm... still not competent using monos it would seem! Terric climb for E1. Watched some lad onsight E5 and then climbed up to the cave to belay my mate on some 7b+. Usually he'd be thinking onsight but he got nowhere fast. "Sandbag" was his conclusion. FA by Simon Lee it would seem...
Fri - Bamford. Seconded Gargoyle Flake for a warm up, then got on a HVS 5b lead. So greasy and I remembered why I hate grit when it's warm. Got scared of the sliding hand on the crux and sat. Miffed at myself, went for it and got it anyway. No logbook tick tho. Moved down to Salmon Slab. Jordon used a top rope on the E6, I led a VS 5a. Oh, had a beer for lunch and went soloing the easy stuff that's there, which is quite pleasant as there's far less polish than there is at Stanage. Then seconded a Eng 5c thing cleanly before we left. Quite chuffed with that, as it felt pretty easy. Roll on the winter...
Sat - Climbing Station. Entered the fun category in the comp. Think I flashed to 12/13 but then the shoulder was unhappy and I was with my physio - just messed around after that. I really like the bouldering here, good setting at my sort grades and the hard problems on the slabs don't tend to have V0 holds in the way.
Sun - Utterly trashed from my birthday the night before. Rolled in around 4pm, covered in make-up, having worn a few wigs but managing to avoid wearing a 1960s Star Trek crew dress. I guess going to a gay engagement party attended by cyber goths, transvestites, transexuals and being rather mullered at the after party was always going to be interesting. The world I was born into would have frowned but thankfully things have changed greatly in the last 49 years. I think I'll do something rather different for my 50th however!
My performance is erratic in general. I change rock nearly every day out and it just takes a while to get back into the groove. So I've decided this winter to just focus on grit. Forget about Wales, boulder lots and hopefully end the winter with an E3 lead. I've seen a few grit ones I fancy.
I tend to wander along the crag, look at lines I like the look of and then look at the guidebook. Anything that I'd ignored just doesn't get looked at, even if it's at the grade I need to be doing to progress. This has found me at various points this year choosing to second a Vdiff, taking whippers on lead on an E3 6a and trying to dry the crux holds on an E1 whilst trying to solo it. I've logged 3xE1 but only 2xHVS but in all honesty, I tend to look at the tech grade more. I feel bomber on eng 4b, fairly solid on 4c and not led much 5a but I'd expect to onsight it. Above that anything can happen.
I'm rambling - soz.
Post edited at 12:24
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks for the summary!
STG:
Lose 1 kg per week for 4 weeks
Easy traversing at climbing wall
Assess cycling fitness with my usual loop.
MTG:
Tick Font 7C
Get sub 13 minutes on my favourite test climb http://www.strava.com/segments/1393830
Try to keep surfing as often as the waves hit the med over the winter.
T - Started fit club again
W - 45km morning ride, 850m ascent. Complete disaster. Legs were a mess. More than three minutes slower on my test climb. No energy, no stamina. Humiliating!
T - Lunchtime traversing at indoor wall. Intentionally kept it easy both for my sanity and, more importantly, skin. Neither was damaged!
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Early morning ride, 70km, 1600m ascent. Intentionally removed cycle computer from the handlebars so that I wouldn't be constantly reminded of how slow I was going. Pleasantly surprised to have averaged 25km/h at the end, though on the last short climbs my legs felt like lead balloons.
Bearing in mind that 3 months ago I was knocking off 70km at 28km/h and still feeling as if I had rocket fuel in my thighs at the end, I've still got a way to go. But "dyfal donc a dyr y garreg" as we say in wales (i.e. keep at it).
The good(ish) news is that my weight is already down to 70kg, which represents 2kg in less than a week. Almost too quick a loss, that, but I'll take it.
This week, more easy climbing (at least twice) and at least one more early morning ride.
Thanks for the summary!
STG:
Lose 1 kg per week for 4 weeks
Easy traversing at climbing wall
Assess cycling fitness with my usual loop.
MTG:
Tick Font 7C
Get sub 13 minutes on my favourite test climb http://www.strava.com/segments/1393830
Try to keep surfing as often as the waves hit the med over the winter.
T - Started fit club again
W - 45km morning ride, 850m ascent. Complete disaster. Legs were a mess. More than three minutes slower on my test climb. No energy, no stamina. Humiliating!
T - Lunchtime traversing at indoor wall. Intentionally kept it easy both for my sanity and, more importantly, skin. Neither was damaged!
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Early morning ride, 70km, 1600m ascent. Intentionally removed cycle computer from the handlebars so that I wouldn't be constantly reminded of how slow I was going. Pleasantly surprised to have averaged 25km/h at the end, though on the last short climbs my legs felt like lead balloons.
Bearing in mind that 3 months ago I was knocking off 70km at 28km/h and still feeling as if I had rocket fuel in my thighs at the end, I've still got a way to go. But "dyfal donc a dyr y garreg" as we say in wales (i.e. keep at it).
The good(ish) news is that my weight is already down to 70kg, which represents 2kg in less than a week. Almost too quick a loss, that, but I'll take it.
This week, more easy climbing (at least twice) and at least one more early morning ride.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks for doing the stats Tintin.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (2/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 1lbs (-3lbs)
M - Rest
T - 100 dish tucks
W - Trad @ Trebanog
T - Started tip runs and removing soil from front garden
F - Shifted 1 ton of slate chippings - finished front garden!!!!!!!!!
S - Finished patio and bin patio.
S - Trad @ Lewes Castle
Ended up taking Friday off to finish the front garden off. It's much nicer now that's finished. Also the main patio and the bin patio is also finished. Which I'm very happy about. Wednesdays trad session sucked. I went there with the aim of doing a HVS I've seconded loads. I know all the moves and the gear. But the moment I went above gear I paniced. Just couldn't move. Slumped on gear several times. Did the bottom boulder problem ok. Then stuffed up the middle. Top was largely ok.
Went to Lewes Castle on the Gower on Sunday. It was very hot. Led a VS there called Combination, which was quite nice. Bit loose in places but a nice route otherwise. Joe led a couple of VSes (which I've done before). Apart from the one XS route there, that's all the VSes done on Lewes Castle. Had been planning on doing a HVS, but by the time I'd seconded two VSes and led one (all 40 meter or more long routes) I was feeling fairly tired and it was 1500. So gave up on the HVS. Next time I'm going there, going to do a VS warm up and just get on one straight away. Crag was fairly busy as well which was nice to see. Doing over 100m of VS climbing at a fairly decent pace was good, some of it on manky rock as well. Bodes well for Morocco.
Weight has been ok. Hoping to maintain the weight loss this week as well. Off on holiday to Crete next week, so will miss the next FC, probably. The hotel has wifi, so we'll see.
Maintain DQS - Did this and lost 3 lbs!
2 core work out - 1 sorta
5k run (run faster, try harder!) - nope
3 shoulder pre-hab - nope
Climbing twice - YES
Next week goals:
Tidy up garden and drive
2 sets of 100 dish tucks
1 climb
Thanks for doing the stats Tintin.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (2/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 1lbs (-3lbs)
M - Rest
T - 100 dish tucks
W - Trad @ Trebanog
T - Started tip runs and removing soil from front garden
F - Shifted 1 ton of slate chippings - finished front garden!!!!!!!!!
S - Finished patio and bin patio.
S - Trad @ Lewes Castle
Ended up taking Friday off to finish the front garden off. It's much nicer now that's finished. Also the main patio and the bin patio is also finished. Which I'm very happy about. Wednesdays trad session sucked. I went there with the aim of doing a HVS I've seconded loads. I know all the moves and the gear. But the moment I went above gear I paniced. Just couldn't move. Slumped on gear several times. Did the bottom boulder problem ok. Then stuffed up the middle. Top was largely ok.
Went to Lewes Castle on the Gower on Sunday. It was very hot. Led a VS there called Combination, which was quite nice. Bit loose in places but a nice route otherwise. Joe led a couple of VSes (which I've done before). Apart from the one XS route there, that's all the VSes done on Lewes Castle. Had been planning on doing a HVS, but by the time I'd seconded two VSes and led one (all 40 meter or more long routes) I was feeling fairly tired and it was 1500. So gave up on the HVS. Next time I'm going there, going to do a VS warm up and just get on one straight away. Crag was fairly busy as well which was nice to see. Doing over 100m of VS climbing at a fairly decent pace was good, some of it on manky rock as well. Bodes well for Morocco.
Weight has been ok. Hoping to maintain the weight loss this week as well. Off on holiday to Crete next week, so will miss the next FC, probably. The hotel has wifi, so we'll see.
Maintain DQS - Did this and lost 3 lbs!
2 core work out - 1 sorta
5k run (run faster, try harder!) - nope
3 shoulder pre-hab - nope
Climbing twice - YES
Next week goals:
Tidy up garden and drive
2 sets of 100 dish tucks
1 climb
Post edited at 16:22
In reply to mrchewy:
I'm sure I'd posted that one before an all. But yeah, it's a fave of mine as well.
> Great psyche movie by the way - not seen it before. Really enjoyed it.
I'm sure I'd posted that one before an all. But yeah, it's a fave of mine as well.
In reply to mattrm:
I must have missed it but I guess I've absent a fair bit, so not unexpected. Stupidly humorous at times but some ace climbing, seriously delicate. Nice stuff.
A fave of mine - he just makes it all look so funky youtube.com/watch?v=Vrac4j7C79Y&
I must have missed it but I guess I've absent a fair bit, so not unexpected. Stupidly humorous at times but some ace climbing, seriously delicate. Nice stuff.
A fave of mine - he just makes it all look so funky youtube.com/watch?v=Vrac4j7C79Y&
Post edited at 21:54
In reply to mrchewy:
That's a nice video as well. Silbergier looks like an amazing route. I suspect it'll always be out of my league, but I can dream can't I?
> I must have missed it but I guess I've absent a fair bit, so not unexpected. Stupidly humorous at times but some ace climbing, seriously delicate. Nice stuff.
> A fave of mine - he just makes it all look so funky youtube.com/watch?v=Vrac4j7C79Y&
That's a nice video as well. Silbergier looks like an amazing route. I suspect it'll always be out of my league, but I can dream can't I?
In reply to mattrm:
Sorry Matt. I don't always watch the psyche videos so was worried it had probably been done before. I'm a big fan of Nina and since someone had stuck the route on their LTGs recently it seemed a good refresher!
Sorry Matt. I don't always watch the psyche videos so was worried it had probably been done before. I'm a big fan of Nina and since someone had stuck the route on their LTGs recently it seemed a good refresher!
In reply to Ali:
4 weeks is precious little time for any real strength or even endurance gains, so I'd just throw yourself at as much leading as possible and keep pushing til you fall - flipping the mental switch is going to be worth more grades than the amount of endurance you'll gain (although it will also work that too) in that time especially since you've highlighted it as a particular weakness. That'd be my choice at any rate. You could structure it around intervals or something if you wanted, but I think getting the head in as good order as possible would be my priority.
4 weeks is precious little time for any real strength or even endurance gains, so I'd just throw yourself at as much leading as possible and keep pushing til you fall - flipping the mental switch is going to be worth more grades than the amount of endurance you'll gain (although it will also work that too) in that time especially since you've highlighted it as a particular weakness. That'd be my choice at any rate. You could structure it around intervals or something if you wanted, but I think getting the head in as good order as possible would be my priority.
In reply to Joughton:
Nice work Jake! I took the ride from trying and failing to clip off the boss umpteen times last summer. I think that was probably my redpoint crux!
Nice work Jake! I took the ride from trying and failing to clip off the boss umpteen times last summer. I think that was probably my redpoint crux!
In reply to Just Tintin:
Great week all round managing:
- 5 sessions
- Sent my first ever red problem (V5-7) at Brookes
- Good lead projecting on 2x7a and a 6c+
- Seconded Regent Street E2 5c without too much trouble and pretty sure I can lead it (placing gear will be easier than spending ages getting someone else’s bomber nuts out!)
M – Rest
T – Boulder Brookes. Worked and succeeded my first red circuit problem (V5-7) – milestone!
W – Lead Brookes. 1st session on 6c+ overhang and have nailed all the moves.
T – Reading. Lead 9 route pyramid dogging 2x7a at the apex. Bouldering x 15 problems to V4
F – Rest
S – WildCat multipitch knocking out VSs in the drizzle.
S – Millstone. 3 great routes: Covent Garden, Gimcrack and Regent Street (on second with rest to get out the very stuck cam Merl had fallen on). Also thankfully Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker arrived and started playing with portaledges which took the pressure off as was worried they would be appalled by my poor finger jams! Then V1 / V1 / V2 at Secret Garden to cool down.
Great week all round managing:
- 5 sessions
- Sent my first ever red problem (V5-7) at Brookes
- Good lead projecting on 2x7a and a 6c+
- Seconded Regent Street E2 5c without too much trouble and pretty sure I can lead it (placing gear will be easier than spending ages getting someone else’s bomber nuts out!)
M – Rest
T – Boulder Brookes. Worked and succeeded my first red circuit problem (V5-7) – milestone!
W – Lead Brookes. 1st session on 6c+ overhang and have nailed all the moves.
T – Reading. Lead 9 route pyramid dogging 2x7a at the apex. Bouldering x 15 problems to V4
F – Rest
S – WildCat multipitch knocking out VSs in the drizzle.
S – Millstone. 3 great routes: Covent Garden, Gimcrack and Regent Street (on second with rest to get out the very stuck cam Merl had fallen on). Also thankfully Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker arrived and started playing with portaledges which took the pressure off as was worried they would be appalled by my poor finger jams! Then V1 / V1 / V2 at Secret Garden to cool down.
Post edited at 10:29
In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy! Yeah I remember reading yours and Steve's reports and was dreading pumping off it! I used the little sidepull/pinch just below it for the crux because it felt so insecure. Such a brilliant route...
In reply to Ali:
Yeah I'd agree with Andy on that, just do as much leading as possible! I think the best thing would be getting on rock and just attempting to onsight (and really gunning for it) on as many hard-ish routes as possible, so routes that you'll either fall off or only just make it to the top on. If you can't get outside then do it inside instead.
As Andy says, four weeks isn't really enough time to make proper strength gains, but if you keep pushing yourself and get pumped loads you'll probably make small fitness gains. More importantly, you'll get really in tune with climbing on rock, as well as getting better at climbing at your limit.
Although I've just seen that you've said you don't like falling, which may make all I've written completely pointless!
Having said that, the way I got over my fear was completely unintentional - I just found myself really wanting to make onsights, so I kept going for it above bolts. I took the inevitable falls and realised that, with a super soft catch, falling was totally fine. I think my biggest mistake was saying take, even a little way above a bolt, which gives you a really hard jolt when you fall! That made me think I'd get an even worse jolt if I fell further, but actually the fall gets softer and more comfortable.
Soft catch is the way forward!
Yeah I'd agree with Andy on that, just do as much leading as possible! I think the best thing would be getting on rock and just attempting to onsight (and really gunning for it) on as many hard-ish routes as possible, so routes that you'll either fall off or only just make it to the top on. If you can't get outside then do it inside instead.
As Andy says, four weeks isn't really enough time to make proper strength gains, but if you keep pushing yourself and get pumped loads you'll probably make small fitness gains. More importantly, you'll get really in tune with climbing on rock, as well as getting better at climbing at your limit.
Although I've just seen that you've said you don't like falling, which may make all I've written completely pointless!
Having said that, the way I got over my fear was completely unintentional - I just found myself really wanting to make onsights, so I kept going for it above bolts. I took the inevitable falls and realised that, with a super soft catch, falling was totally fine. I think my biggest mistake was saying take, even a little way above a bolt, which gives you a really hard jolt when you fall! That made me think I'd get an even worse jolt if I fell further, but actually the fall gets softer and more comfortable.
Soft catch is the way forward!
Post edited at 13:17
In reply to Just Tintin:
Another OK week really.
Big news is we got into the UTLD 50 following the admin errors, on their behalf. Without that we may well not have done so all good in the end.
I need to start logging my runs now. I reckon i got about 20 miles last week, probably more. I'm going to slowly build that up to 30, hold that for a month or so, then kick in with the proper training. We've got plenty of time so no need to push too soon.
Bought some new shoes to help with psyche as we were both slipping all over the place on the boggy moors.
Also had a good boulder session this week. Felt pretty zippy on the warm ups and got all but one of the V5's and a few of the V6's.
I need to crack on now with some proper stg's for climbing and running.
Got a weekend in the Lakes coming up, which will be mostly DIY with a run in the evenings.
Another OK week really.
Big news is we got into the UTLD 50 following the admin errors, on their behalf. Without that we may well not have done so all good in the end.
I need to start logging my runs now. I reckon i got about 20 miles last week, probably more. I'm going to slowly build that up to 30, hold that for a month or so, then kick in with the proper training. We've got plenty of time so no need to push too soon.
Bought some new shoes to help with psyche as we were both slipping all over the place on the boggy moors.
Also had a good boulder session this week. Felt pretty zippy on the warm ups and got all but one of the V5's and a few of the V6's.
I need to crack on now with some proper stg's for climbing and running.
Got a weekend in the Lakes coming up, which will be mostly DIY with a run in the evenings.
In reply to Just Tintin:
Yep, we got a place by the skin of our teeth by putting ourselves on the non-existent waiting list. Seems like the whole online entering thing was a total admin cock up but it worked to our advantage
Got a sort of training plan. I think. And new shoes. So i'm sure it will be fine. I actually think i'll be ok with the distance; it just wont be very fast. I need to spend some days with just time on my feet, even if thats just days out walking/running. I don't know. I feel a bit out of my depth right now but I'm sure it'll come together!
I'm actually looking forward to runs out on the tops when its cold and the ground is all crunchy. Small things in life...
Yep, we got a place by the skin of our teeth by putting ourselves on the non-existent waiting list. Seems like the whole online entering thing was a total admin cock up but it worked to our advantage
Got a sort of training plan. I think. And new shoes. So i'm sure it will be fine. I actually think i'll be ok with the distance; it just wont be very fast. I need to spend some days with just time on my feet, even if thats just days out walking/running. I don't know. I feel a bit out of my depth right now but I'm sure it'll come together!
I'm actually looking forward to runs out on the tops when its cold and the ground is all crunchy. Small things in life...
In reply to Ali:
Hi Ali
I have been swimming lots recently and my skin has improved if anything. I lost all the dead skin on top and I get left with just live skin which is more flexible.
I was on rough moorland grit at the weekend and my skin lasted much better than usual.
I have been combining swimming and indoor bouldering and my skin is okay after the session even on rough new holds.
Where are you going on holiday? I guess london bouldering walls in an evening are too busy to try and do 4x4's but if you can get a belayer you could try 4x4's on a lead wall.
I remember shark post somewhere about 4x4s while lead climbing. I think he did a route leading lowered as soon as he touched the ground straight back on and top roped another route on the same line. did that 4 times then rested while his partner did the same thing.
Hi Ali
I have been swimming lots recently and my skin has improved if anything. I lost all the dead skin on top and I get left with just live skin which is more flexible.
I was on rough moorland grit at the weekend and my skin lasted much better than usual.
I have been combining swimming and indoor bouldering and my skin is okay after the session even on rough new holds.
Where are you going on holiday? I guess london bouldering walls in an evening are too busy to try and do 4x4's but if you can get a belayer you could try 4x4's on a lead wall.
I remember shark post somewhere about 4x4s while lead climbing. I think he did a route leading lowered as soon as he touched the ground straight back on and top roped another route on the same line. did that 4 times then rested while his partner did the same thing.
In reply to Joughton & Andy:
Cheers guys - good advice. Unfortunately I can't get out on real rock before I go (being stuck in London and other weekend plans) and my climbing partners are mostly on holiday... but when I can fit lead sessions in that's what I'll go for. Tried it last night and managed (mostly) not to say 'take' but did find myself taking non-falls rather than pushing to max and taking a proper fall.
I think I also have a very negative mindset around this - when I find myself in a position where I'm not totally happy and thinking about falling, I find myself looking down at how much slack there is in the rope (just normal slack, not loops of it!) and calculating how far I'm going to fall...this them freaks me out so I don't do the move OR fall off. Need to get something else to think about.
Jake - my unintended whipper was as a result of me saying take above a bolt, reaching down to grab draw (I know - naughty Ali, slapped wrists) and somehow unclipping it and falling rather further than I intended quickdraw in hand! Lesson well and truly learnt... Though weirdly the fall itself was fine and felt ok afterwards, but now seem to have gone back into 'fall phobia' zone. Arggghhhh - its really starting to get to me!
Cheers guys - good advice. Unfortunately I can't get out on real rock before I go (being stuck in London and other weekend plans) and my climbing partners are mostly on holiday... but when I can fit lead sessions in that's what I'll go for. Tried it last night and managed (mostly) not to say 'take' but did find myself taking non-falls rather than pushing to max and taking a proper fall.
I think I also have a very negative mindset around this - when I find myself in a position where I'm not totally happy and thinking about falling, I find myself looking down at how much slack there is in the rope (just normal slack, not loops of it!) and calculating how far I'm going to fall...this them freaks me out so I don't do the move OR fall off. Need to get something else to think about.
Jake - my unintended whipper was as a result of me saying take above a bolt, reaching down to grab draw (I know - naughty Ali, slapped wrists) and somehow unclipping it and falling rather further than I intended quickdraw in hand! Lesson well and truly learnt... Though weirdly the fall itself was fine and felt ok afterwards, but now seem to have gone back into 'fall phobia' zone. Arggghhhh - its really starting to get to me!
In reply to grubes:
Ah good to know - skin was ok climbing on routes last night - I think perhaps it was bad last week as the holds were new and rather rough :-S
Off to Sicily! No tick list as yet - feel a bit hard to get psyched for particular routes when they're just grades in the guidebook with no description - but if anyone has recommendations would be great to hear them...
Ah good to know - skin was ok climbing on routes last night - I think perhaps it was bad last week as the holds were new and rather rough :-S
Off to Sicily! No tick list as yet - feel a bit hard to get psyched for particular routes when they're just grades in the guidebook with no description - but if anyone has recommendations would be great to hear them...
In reply to Ali:
I think if you're doing the whole measuring falls thing, the only way is to just jump off then and there - you have to teach your mind that a fall of whatever length it is isn't going to be a problem.
Or if you can, look down, measure, then shut your brain off, look up and just dyno wildly for something, anything, and tap it and fall! When my Ali tried fall training I used to sometimes suggest things like doing practice falls but by slapping for things and coming off rather than just letting go, because like it sounds like you're doing she otherwise went for non-falls rather than falling whilst giving full commitment to the route.
I think if you're doing the whole measuring falls thing, the only way is to just jump off then and there - you have to teach your mind that a fall of whatever length it is isn't going to be a problem.
Or if you can, look down, measure, then shut your brain off, look up and just dyno wildly for something, anything, and tap it and fall! When my Ali tried fall training I used to sometimes suggest things like doing practice falls but by slapping for things and coming off rather than just letting go, because like it sounds like you're doing she otherwise went for non-falls rather than falling whilst giving full commitment to the route.
In reply to Ali: Probably rubbish advice but it helps me just to really focus on the individual moves, just think move by move rather that 'ooh look at all those moves I have to make before the next bolt'. That way you get more absorbed in the climbing, and before you know it you're at the next one.
In reply to Ali:
I'd second the 4x4s.
Also went swimming for the first time in ages today after a hard grit session on Sunday. It's actually got rid of the crappy skin quite nicely, so combined with magic ClimbOn has been quite productive!
I'd second the 4x4s.
Also went swimming for the first time in ages today after a hard grit session on Sunday. It's actually got rid of the crappy skin quite nicely, so combined with magic ClimbOn has been quite productive!
In reply to AJM:
I know, I need to not look down... but the rational part of my brain takes over and goes 'arrgh, you don't KNOW its not going to be a problem, you may fall a whole 2m, you don't LIKE falling, doom! doom!'
I'm hoping that outside I'll get a bit more into the moves and wanting to do the routes more than inside. Which means hopefully I'll focus more on the moves and less on the distance to the next bolt...
I know, I need to not look down... but the rational part of my brain takes over and goes 'arrgh, you don't KNOW its not going to be a problem, you may fall a whole 2m, you don't LIKE falling, doom! doom!'
I'm hoping that outside I'll get a bit more into the moves and wanting to do the routes more than inside. Which means hopefully I'll focus more on the moves and less on the distance to the next bolt...
In reply to Ali:
Bummer about the foot if it is a stress fracture the onset of pain will occur quicker and it'll just get more and more painful the more you run on it. Sadly rest is the only thing to allow it to heal and you'll be looking at 6 weeks of no running. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news - lets hope its not a stress fracture!
Bummer about the foot if it is a stress fracture the onset of pain will occur quicker and it'll just get more and more painful the more you run on it. Sadly rest is the only thing to allow it to heal and you'll be looking at 6 weeks of no running. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news - lets hope its not a stress fracture!
In reply to Just Tintin:
Cheers for doing this and sorry, sneaking in at the back late....
M: am - 7M easy in 48:24 felt good
Tu: pm session - 5x3min off 1min jog then 5 x 20sec strides. Reps at ~5.05M pace so encouraging. 9M total
W: pm - 7M steady in 47:18
Th: pm - 5/6M steady in 35:36
F: Rest
Sa: am - 20min easy + strides
Su: am - Wilne 10K. Good course, pretty good conditions (a little warm but I'm being picky) and a good field made this a great opportunity to get stuck in. Avoided the first 1K charge and settled in with someone I recognised over the first 2K. The plan worked as we started to move through and after 3K there were two groups ahead. Felt good so pushed on up to the second group on the road and sat in that group recovering until about 5K. Got to 6K and felt like its was slowing so took it on and split the group up with only one other guy coming with me. We managed to pick up someone who'd fallen off the lead group but by 9K I was cooked and both of them left me. Still, stayed strong and finished 10th in 31:36 - 1 second slower than my PB - B*ll*cks! 11M
43M Overall was really pleased to run a good race after a break and only 2 sessions so reckon there is more in the tank which is exciting! Now need to not overdo things and get back into core work and strength work.
Cheers for doing this and sorry, sneaking in at the back late....
M: am - 7M easy in 48:24 felt good
Tu: pm session - 5x3min off 1min jog then 5 x 20sec strides. Reps at ~5.05M pace so encouraging. 9M total
W: pm - 7M steady in 47:18
Th: pm - 5/6M steady in 35:36
F: Rest
Sa: am - 20min easy + strides
Su: am - Wilne 10K. Good course, pretty good conditions (a little warm but I'm being picky) and a good field made this a great opportunity to get stuck in. Avoided the first 1K charge and settled in with someone I recognised over the first 2K. The plan worked as we started to move through and after 3K there were two groups ahead. Felt good so pushed on up to the second group on the road and sat in that group recovering until about 5K. Got to 6K and felt like its was slowing so took it on and split the group up with only one other guy coming with me. We managed to pick up someone who'd fallen off the lead group but by 9K I was cooked and both of them left me. Still, stayed strong and finished 10th in 31:36 - 1 second slower than my PB - B*ll*cks! 11M
43M Overall was really pleased to run a good race after a break and only 2 sessions so reckon there is more in the tank which is exciting! Now need to not overdo things and get back into core work and strength work.
In reply to Humperdink:
I'm not 100% sure - it doesn't hurt *that* much - more discomfort and dull ache. But it definitely got worse when I ran on it, or shoved my foot into tight climbing shoes, so I figured resting it would be the best option, until Sicily at least.
I'm not 100% sure - it doesn't hurt *that* much - more discomfort and dull ache. But it definitely got worse when I ran on it, or shoved my foot into tight climbing shoes, so I figured resting it would be the best option, until Sicily at least.
In reply to Ali:
Unless you get an mri you won't really know and even then it can be difficult to tell. Is the pain really localised in one area? It will start out as a dull ache/ pain and then get more severe/ acute as it gets worse. The good thing though is that a dull ache/ pain could be lots of things other than a stress fracture so fingers crossed. Either way, rest will help!
Unless you get an mri you won't really know and even then it can be difficult to tell. Is the pain really localised in one area? It will start out as a dull ache/ pain and then get more severe/ acute as it gets worse. The good thing though is that a dull ache/ pain could be lots of things other than a stress fracture so fingers crossed. Either way, rest will help!
In reply to Just Tintin:
Phew second week and i nearly missed it! Ive been a way in london for a week with no access to a computer, but back on line!
Ok last week that i acctually decided to try some training methods as mentioned in Alex barrows infomation.
MON: Did nowt was quite tired from the weekend and 3 days in a row climbing (first for me)
TUE: Aero pow and Aero cap. , did 6b an 6c lapping for power endurance, 2min on 2min off 4 reps 10 min rest between sets, didnt get mega pumped justfairly and a bit of powerd out, some moves were a bit powerfull for the full effect.Maybe something a bit pumpyier would of been better.
WED: An cap,powered out 10 moves did 2 sets of 4, didnt get pumped, just powered out.
THUR: AN POW AND SMALL AERO POW. lapped v3 problem. x5. repeated attempts ond Close v7 Flash with 4 good attempts but got worse each time, skin failing power lacking, load of v3 to 5's to warm down
FRI: rest
SAT: Went to wilton fest but got rained off so went to frogs mouth quarry en route home so did Routes, 6c+ 6c+ 6b+ 6b range, again was getting powered out and pumped on a 7a but it had good rests between sections but dogged to end.
SUN: Travel down to london.
Not sure if i'm doing the above right but iam getting intentioaly very pumped and very powerd out which i havent done in a while so this must be good for some areas of my power endurance.
Goals for Next few months:
STG: Climb/train x4 a week, structure training more,
MTG: Finish off projects and "ones that got awaay/"next session when i'm fresh, no problem!" routes
LTG: Get to 12st, do a 7a+ in a session,7b in two sessions, have a go on a 7b+
Just tintin: Thanks! i'm keen for some trad but maily want to be a good sport climber at the mo, but saying that i might be off Ogwen tomorrow!
Off now to tryand figure out about split traing and how the core is important, i think!?
Allways keen
Alex
Phew second week and i nearly missed it! Ive been a way in london for a week with no access to a computer, but back on line!
Ok last week that i acctually decided to try some training methods as mentioned in Alex barrows infomation.
MON: Did nowt was quite tired from the weekend and 3 days in a row climbing (first for me)
TUE: Aero pow and Aero cap. , did 6b an 6c lapping for power endurance, 2min on 2min off 4 reps 10 min rest between sets, didnt get mega pumped justfairly and a bit of powerd out, some moves were a bit powerfull for the full effect.Maybe something a bit pumpyier would of been better.
WED: An cap,powered out 10 moves did 2 sets of 4, didnt get pumped, just powered out.
THUR: AN POW AND SMALL AERO POW. lapped v3 problem. x5. repeated attempts ond Close v7 Flash with 4 good attempts but got worse each time, skin failing power lacking, load of v3 to 5's to warm down
FRI: rest
SAT: Went to wilton fest but got rained off so went to frogs mouth quarry en route home so did Routes, 6c+ 6c+ 6b+ 6b range, again was getting powered out and pumped on a 7a but it had good rests between sections but dogged to end.
SUN: Travel down to london.
Not sure if i'm doing the above right but iam getting intentioaly very pumped and very powerd out which i havent done in a while so this must be good for some areas of my power endurance.
Goals for Next few months:
STG: Climb/train x4 a week, structure training more,
MTG: Finish off projects and "ones that got awaay/"next session when i'm fresh, no problem!" routes
LTG: Get to 12st, do a 7a+ in a session,7b in two sessions, have a go on a 7b+
Just tintin: Thanks! i'm keen for some trad but maily want to be a good sport climber at the mo, but saying that i might be off Ogwen tomorrow!
Off now to tryand figure out about split traing and how the core is important, i think!?
Allways keen
Alex
In reply to Humperdink:
Yeah it's pretty localised - on top of my right foot at the high point on the left (if that makes sense). I thought it was getting better then ended up having to run for the train last week and it flared up a bit.
Yeah it's pretty localised - on top of my right foot at the high point on the left (if that makes sense). I thought it was getting better then ended up having to run for the train last week and it flared up a bit.
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