UKC

I'd appreciate help and advice in getting rid of a bit of tendinitis/muscle pain on a forearm radiating to the outside of the elbow.

Cheers muchly.

In reply to The Lemming:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3614 is a good article and useful exercises.

I struggled with it after a trip to font in April. In the end I actualy just didnt climb hard (normally boulder so just worked endurance on easy routes 1-2 times a week and went running to have something else to do) for a good 3-4 months and its done the trick, am now bouldering happily and no pain.
I know some people that just keep climbing with it and 'manage' it with exercises.

In reply to The Lemming:

I've been battling this for about five years in both elbows, and just about given up trying to cure it completely.

The things which have help me manage it are using a theraband bar (search google) and doing eccentric exercises, eccentric wrist curls etc. You can just use weights if you don't want to buy a theraband.

Other people have also had success with supination and pronation exercises with a hammer. This didn't help my tennis elbow but was an almost instant fix for a small bout of golfers elbow.

Good luck

In reply to The Lemming:

Arm aid.

Solved my issues before it became to major.

In reply to The Lemming:

Thank you everybody for your help.

Its just flared up over the last couple of weeks and I want to nip it in the bud.

Cheers

In reply to The Lemming:

eccentric reverse wrist curls. Pics probably in one of the links other people put up or you can get it from googling 'tennis elbow exercises'

Basically hold a dumbell in one hand, palm down, with your arm straight on edge of table, sofa whatever with your wrist and hand over the edge, use your free hand to bring your dumbell hand to the top of range of motion in the wirst, (bringing your knuckles towards your face) and them slowly lower the weight over 8 seconds. Pretty much fixed some severe tennis elbow I had in like 4 days. It's actually been a miracle for me :S