This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Stats (possibly collaboratively edited) will be up later - the sun is shining, the weather is glorious and Team Fitclub are off to Portland!
1
In reply to AJM:
Hope you're having fun in Portland!!
Mon - I had the day off work so....
2 mile running - hills.
1000ft laps on the auto belay!! I racked up 50 laps, warm up (x5ish?) on v easy routes then all F6+ The wall is 27ft I minused 7ft for height and reach (not to make maths easier - honest). I hadn't planned a marathon but wanted to work 3 routes I flashed but was clumsy on till I was flowing, then exceed the clonky climbs with pretty ones. I had to wait for the second panel so kept going, by the time I counted up my little chalk dots I was at 37 so then went for it as it felt like I could. I was gobsmacked!!
Tues - 1.5 mile hills running.
weds - 1.5 miles hills running + random 5 mins going like a nutter on the rower because I was cold!
Thurs - Bouldering league with my daughter. I was distracted and off it so only seriously tried 10 problems - bit rubbish.
Fri - 2.8 miles on the level running. Really boring! 2hrs + climbing but only about 10 hard (for me) routes, some no hands training.
Sat - Nowt
Sun - 2.5 miles hills, half off road and very muddy. I got up a hill I've never been able to run, very hard to describe but I was chuffed - ran home like an octogenarian after a marathon though. 2 hrs climbing, couple of harder routes but mostly training (one arm, right then left, features for feet etc). On ropes so effectively 1 hr due to belaying.
I now have a new goal to add to my uktech indoor 6a at notts. I want 100 auto belay laps (2000ft). The auto belay is graded in both F and Uk so I want the 100 5+ uk or F6+. It's just there, I'm not going to kill myself for it but as I could walk and move ok the day after 50 I think I can get it.
Hope you're having fun in Portland!!
Mon - I had the day off work so....
2 mile running - hills.
1000ft laps on the auto belay!! I racked up 50 laps, warm up (x5ish?) on v easy routes then all F6+ The wall is 27ft I minused 7ft for height and reach (not to make maths easier - honest). I hadn't planned a marathon but wanted to work 3 routes I flashed but was clumsy on till I was flowing, then exceed the clonky climbs with pretty ones. I had to wait for the second panel so kept going, by the time I counted up my little chalk dots I was at 37 so then went for it as it felt like I could. I was gobsmacked!!
Tues - 1.5 mile hills running.
weds - 1.5 miles hills running + random 5 mins going like a nutter on the rower because I was cold!
Thurs - Bouldering league with my daughter. I was distracted and off it so only seriously tried 10 problems - bit rubbish.
Fri - 2.8 miles on the level running. Really boring! 2hrs + climbing but only about 10 hard (for me) routes, some no hands training.
Sat - Nowt
Sun - 2.5 miles hills, half off road and very muddy. I got up a hill I've never been able to run, very hard to describe but I was chuffed - ran home like an octogenarian after a marathon though. 2 hrs climbing, couple of harder routes but mostly training (one arm, right then left, features for feet etc). On ropes so effectively 1 hr due to belaying.
I now have a new goal to add to my uktech indoor 6a at notts. I want 100 auto belay laps (2000ft). The auto belay is graded in both F and Uk so I want the 100 5+ uk or F6+. It's just there, I'm not going to kill myself for it but as I could walk and move ok the day after 50 I think I can get it.
In reply to AJM:
So, final hurrah for me, onwards and upwards with Nick at the helm! Thanks to everyone who showed out for Fit Club Portland this weekend, hope everyone had fun.
In case anyone didn't notice, there's Nicks excellent roundup thread here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=605789
Last weeks thread is here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=606011
Alex's sport climbing training bible is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video of the week:
Haven't really looked - any suggestions?
Posters:
AJM
Dandan82 - good high volume week - did you keep it up?
maria85 - good mileage and out on the skis to boot!
Nick Russell - guilt edge is coming together...
mbh - sounds like some muddy miles!
williemiller - a Christmas break from things is allowed
hms - another week of beasting. I can't imagine doing 600 moves on TCA circuit boards within my skin just sloughing off totally
Jeriqo - varied week
mattrm - a man with a plan and gunning for 7a
mrchewy - hectic week, not really believing in resting!
Tyler - all about the bass but still ticking away
JimmyKay - strong effort on Diesel Power
flopsicle - good amount of climbing there
Luke Owens - excellent day at Ysgo!
Creedence - nice job on the 7a
Joughton - pretty good pyramid nevertheless, even without a 7c+ top
Exile - another week in readiness for winter
Ian Rock - I think if you can get the mileage in those goals should come along quick - technique will get you there pretty fast if you focus on it
Humperdink - how's the hamstring going?
The Ex-Engineer - that sucks, did you manage to get much done in the end?
Ally Smith - monster Arabian aerocap, nice job
Mut3ly - welcome!
Just Tintin - looking good on the comp results!
So, final hurrah for me, onwards and upwards with Nick at the helm! Thanks to everyone who showed out for Fit Club Portland this weekend, hope everyone had fun.
In case anyone didn't notice, there's Nicks excellent roundup thread here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=605789
Last weeks thread is here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=606011
Alex's sport climbing training bible is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video of the week:
Haven't really looked - any suggestions?
Posters:
AJM
Dandan82 - good high volume week - did you keep it up?
maria85 - good mileage and out on the skis to boot!
Nick Russell - guilt edge is coming together...
mbh - sounds like some muddy miles!
williemiller - a Christmas break from things is allowed
hms - another week of beasting. I can't imagine doing 600 moves on TCA circuit boards within my skin just sloughing off totally
Jeriqo - varied week
mattrm - a man with a plan and gunning for 7a
mrchewy - hectic week, not really believing in resting!
Tyler - all about the bass but still ticking away
JimmyKay - strong effort on Diesel Power
flopsicle - good amount of climbing there
Luke Owens - excellent day at Ysgo!
Creedence - nice job on the 7a
Joughton - pretty good pyramid nevertheless, even without a 7c+ top
Exile - another week in readiness for winter
Ian Rock - I think if you can get the mileage in those goals should come along quick - technique will get you there pretty fast if you focus on it
Humperdink - how's the hamstring going?
The Ex-Engineer - that sucks, did you manage to get much done in the end?
Ally Smith - monster Arabian aerocap, nice job
Mut3ly - welcome!
Just Tintin - looking good on the comp results!
In reply to AJM:
Aerocap
Continuity - 1/1
Split continuity - 1/1
1-on-2-off - 0/0
1-on-1-off - 0/0
Ancap
Linked Boulder - 1/1
Boulder mileage - 0/1
Footless Boulder and campus hangs - 0/0
AeroPow
Capacity-Power - 0/0
Campus laddering - 0/0
Conditioning
Wide grip pullups - 2/2
Bottom pullups - 2/2
Offset pull-ups - 0/0
Fingerboard 1 - 0/1
Fingerboard 2 - 0/0
Fingerboard 3 - 0/0
Monday - rest
Tuesday - warmup & general bouldering. Linked Boulder. Tried wide grip pullups after but failed - 1x8, 1x3
Wednesday - general bouldering. Continuity. Finished wide grip pullups.
Thursday - bottom pullups before work. Half way through set 1 of Boulder mileage post work, elbow got sore, sacked it.
Friday - bottom pullups before work
Saturday - bouldering pm. Cuttings boulderfield - Nu Breed sit start (V4), Relativity (V6?). Tiny progress on Lightning Strike (V7)
Sunday - Cuttings. Sunny when we left, but soon clouded over and the wind was getting in. Did a 6b, but got cold and lost enthusiasm. Went to the wall in the evening - split continuity and wide grip pullups.
Notes:
- Tuesday linked boulder session very hard. Failed on reps 8, 10, 11, 12 - about move 9 on 8 & 10 and move 11 on 11 & 12. Tried to do wide grip pullups afterwards and totally failed.
- Wednesday continuity hard and also sweaty.
- something weirds going on with my elbow. Not sure what but need to keep an eye on it.
- pleased with Saturday's bouldering, I'd struggled with Nu Breed before and it was good to dispatch Relativity reasonably quickly. Need to focus in on Lightning Strike soon though, although there's a whole bunch of other stuff I still fancy in there, good place to work my weaknesses.
- failed to meet plan this week. No excuse for the fingerboarding really. Ancap my elbow was just playing up. Logistically it was a difficult week because when they strip the wall they take everything down so I had to not only do everything else on the plan but also re-learn enough problems for my Boulder circuits, plus Monday evening almost nothing was reset so I had to compress the 3 sessions back to back. Will try harder this week.
Aerocap
Continuity - 1/1
Split continuity - 1/1
1-on-2-off - 0/0
1-on-1-off - 0/0
Ancap
Linked Boulder - 1/1
Boulder mileage - 0/1
Footless Boulder and campus hangs - 0/0
AeroPow
Capacity-Power - 0/0
Campus laddering - 0/0
Conditioning
Wide grip pullups - 2/2
Bottom pullups - 2/2
Offset pull-ups - 0/0
Fingerboard 1 - 0/1
Fingerboard 2 - 0/0
Fingerboard 3 - 0/0
Monday - rest
Tuesday - warmup & general bouldering. Linked Boulder. Tried wide grip pullups after but failed - 1x8, 1x3
Wednesday - general bouldering. Continuity. Finished wide grip pullups.
Thursday - bottom pullups before work. Half way through set 1 of Boulder mileage post work, elbow got sore, sacked it.
Friday - bottom pullups before work
Saturday - bouldering pm. Cuttings boulderfield - Nu Breed sit start (V4), Relativity (V6?). Tiny progress on Lightning Strike (V7)
Sunday - Cuttings. Sunny when we left, but soon clouded over and the wind was getting in. Did a 6b, but got cold and lost enthusiasm. Went to the wall in the evening - split continuity and wide grip pullups.
Notes:
- Tuesday linked boulder session very hard. Failed on reps 8, 10, 11, 12 - about move 9 on 8 & 10 and move 11 on 11 & 12. Tried to do wide grip pullups afterwards and totally failed.
- Wednesday continuity hard and also sweaty.
- something weirds going on with my elbow. Not sure what but need to keep an eye on it.
- pleased with Saturday's bouldering, I'd struggled with Nu Breed before and it was good to dispatch Relativity reasonably quickly. Need to focus in on Lightning Strike soon though, although there's a whole bunch of other stuff I still fancy in there, good place to work my weaknesses.
- failed to meet plan this week. No excuse for the fingerboarding really. Ancap my elbow was just playing up. Logistically it was a difficult week because when they strip the wall they take everything down so I had to not only do everything else on the plan but also re-learn enough problems for my Boulder circuits, plus Monday evening almost nothing was reset so I had to compress the 3 sessions back to back. Will try harder this week.
In reply to AJM:
Hello AJM thanks for having me.
M - 71.1kgs. 140 push ups, 38 pull ups
T - 151 push ups, 42 pull ups, relaxing session at the works mostly on easy probs
W - 161 push ups, 46 pull ups, beastmaker 5a routine, still can't do a complete circuit
T - 165 push ups, 49 pull ups
F - works sesh, stepped up to wasps (6b/c?) and managed 6. Not bad.
S - rest
S - 70.4kgs. Works sesh, did 6 more wasps. Quite pleased as wasps felt beyond me a month ago.
The push ups / pull ups thing is the totals from doing 3 x max effort in the morning then 6 x max effort on the stroke of the minute in the evening. I might try the armstrong routine after a month or so of this or whenever I plateau.
Hello AJM thanks for having me.
M - 71.1kgs. 140 push ups, 38 pull ups
T - 151 push ups, 42 pull ups, relaxing session at the works mostly on easy probs
W - 161 push ups, 46 pull ups, beastmaker 5a routine, still can't do a complete circuit
T - 165 push ups, 49 pull ups
F - works sesh, stepped up to wasps (6b/c?) and managed 6. Not bad.
S - rest
S - 70.4kgs. Works sesh, did 6 more wasps. Quite pleased as wasps felt beyond me a month ago.
The push ups / pull ups thing is the totals from doing 3 x max effort in the morning then 6 x max effort on the stroke of the minute in the evening. I might try the armstrong routine after a month or so of this or whenever I plateau.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for doing fit club Andy - and another!
Aims:
Winter start with VI 7 - Start winter, tick, VI 7, not yet
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 45min continual dry tooling (winter technique and ARC)
T: 1hr road run (winter endurance)
W: 1hr30 power endurance at wall & core
T: Rest
F: 1hr road run (winter endurance)
S: Rest
S:1hr30 power endurance at wall & core
Weight: 12st
Thanks for doing fit club Andy - and another!
Aims:
Winter start with VI 7 - Start winter, tick, VI 7, not yet
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 45min continual dry tooling (winter technique and ARC)
T: 1hr road run (winter endurance)
W: 1hr30 power endurance at wall & core
T: Rest
F: 1hr road run (winter endurance)
S: Rest
S:1hr30 power endurance at wall & core
Weight: 12st
In reply to AJM:
M: Rest
T: Deadhangs - reduced rest to 3:30, added an exta set on the small rungs. Failed on 3 of the nine sets
W: Rest
T: Excellent Stockport wall session with the Fox and a guest appearance from Ally, 10 tie ins.
F: Rest
S: another excellent Stocky wall session with the Peugot, still maintaining incremental improvement. 10 tie ins. Elbow worryingly sore
S: Battered, Liverpool wall with team Binns and the Mrs. 9 tie ins, everything over 6b+ dogged.
D-day this Thur when I meet specialist about my ankle, I'm feeling pretty down about because I know even of it gets fixed my hip is still knackered and my elbow is getting worse.
I'm also heavier than ever.
M: Rest
T: Deadhangs - reduced rest to 3:30, added an exta set on the small rungs. Failed on 3 of the nine sets
W: Rest
T: Excellent Stockport wall session with the Fox and a guest appearance from Ally, 10 tie ins.
F: Rest
S: another excellent Stocky wall session with the Peugot, still maintaining incremental improvement. 10 tie ins. Elbow worryingly sore
S: Battered, Liverpool wall with team Binns and the Mrs. 9 tie ins, everything over 6b+ dogged.
D-day this Thur when I meet specialist about my ankle, I'm feeling pretty down about because I know even of it gets fixed my hip is still knackered and my elbow is getting worse.
I'm also heavier than ever.
Post edited at 21:27
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for starting the thread, I'll try to keep up the good work. Yes, Guilt Edge is coming together pretty well now.
M - Fingerboard. Testing max deadhangs on various holds. The ones I couldn't manage for >20s were back 3 small pocket (18s), front 2 small pocket (6s), 4 finger small edge (6s).
T - Rest
W - TCA. Long session including about 30 minutes on campus board. Managed 1-3-5 and 1-4-5 (leading both sides) on medium rungs. Just did some ladders on small rungs. Finished off with 25 minutes continuous on the easiest circuit. Destroyed my skin. Maybe a bit too hard for ARC but it's the easiest one around.
T - 6km slow run (5:02/km). Knee is still ok. Core (planks + antagonists)
F - UCR - Poor session. Highlight was a decent attempt at yellow 7a+ near entrance - got to bolt 5, I think. After this, got shut down on a 6c, then a 6b+ then got a flapjack. Resolved to keep track of indoor routes pyramid 6b+ and above to give me some direction.
S - Brean. Decent link on Guilt Edge - did the whole (upper) crux sequence from sidepull just above break to jugs after last bolt. Best attempt at a redpoint ended half way up start of Prisoner as somebody else started to climb across from Chulilla (they share holds). A successful redpoint next time is not out of the question.
S - Portland - Cuttings. 2 rather clunky warm-up routes then flashed a 7a. Chuffed with that.
Mixed week. Started well, ended well but with less skin. I'm starting to think that the Brean progression below is a bit optimistic for the time available. Optimistic but not impossible, so I'll keep it on the goals here and see how far I get.
Goals
Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a) (8a)
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
2-finger (front and middle) repeaters on BM1000 small pockets
From deadhang performance I reckon middle 2 will be ok, front 2 will require a bit more work
Tick off some of the harder Avon trad that I've not got round to yet
Amanita, Think Pink, Central Wall, Peryl, Main Wall Elimate, GT Special, Low Profile
> Nick Russell - guilt edge is coming together...
Thanks for starting the thread, I'll try to keep up the good work. Yes, Guilt Edge is coming together pretty well now.
M - Fingerboard. Testing max deadhangs on various holds. The ones I couldn't manage for >20s were back 3 small pocket (18s), front 2 small pocket (6s), 4 finger small edge (6s).
T - Rest
W - TCA. Long session including about 30 minutes on campus board. Managed 1-3-5 and 1-4-5 (leading both sides) on medium rungs. Just did some ladders on small rungs. Finished off with 25 minutes continuous on the easiest circuit. Destroyed my skin. Maybe a bit too hard for ARC but it's the easiest one around.
T - 6km slow run (5:02/km). Knee is still ok. Core (planks + antagonists)
F - UCR - Poor session. Highlight was a decent attempt at yellow 7a+ near entrance - got to bolt 5, I think. After this, got shut down on a 6c, then a 6b+ then got a flapjack. Resolved to keep track of indoor routes pyramid 6b+ and above to give me some direction.
S - Brean. Decent link on Guilt Edge - did the whole (upper) crux sequence from sidepull just above break to jugs after last bolt. Best attempt at a redpoint ended half way up start of Prisoner as somebody else started to climb across from Chulilla (they share holds). A successful redpoint next time is not out of the question.
S - Portland - Cuttings. 2 rather clunky warm-up routes then flashed a 7a. Chuffed with that.
Mixed week. Started well, ended well but with less skin. I'm starting to think that the Brean progression below is a bit optimistic for the time available. Optimistic but not impossible, so I'll keep it on the goals here and see how far I get.
Goals
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
From deadhang performance I reckon middle 2 will be ok, front 2 will require a bit more work
Amanita, Think Pink, Central Wall, Peryl, Main Wall Elimate, GT Special, Low Profile
In reply to flopsicle:
Nice work - I was doing a 100 boulder problems around V0-2 with minimal rests in Oct, climbing up and down. Feet climbed 2m up and 2m, so 400m in total. Maybe 1300ft? Did me the world of good aerobically. I think it's good to look at the height gain, certainly for me as I tend to think in terms of mountains and faces.
Strong effort.
Nice work - I was doing a 100 boulder problems around V0-2 with minimal rests in Oct, climbing up and down. Feet climbed 2m up and 2m, so 400m in total. Maybe 1300ft? Did me the world of good aerobically. I think it's good to look at the height gain, certainly for me as I tend to think in terms of mountains and faces.
Strong effort.
1
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for doing fitclub since you've been back Andy - much appreciated.
Just home after the meet, good to have faces to put to some of the comments. Thanks to Ally for the bed, Andy for sorting it, Kev for the belays and patience and everyone else for group psyche.
Mon - Boulder warmup, then lock off training. Managed a PB of three sets and the last set was 7 (really happy with this). Quick boulder, doing footwork drills.
Tue - Routes. Burtnt out to be honest, so just did easy stuff in the 5s. Finished with a 5+ x 4 going very slowly face on.
Wed - After 11 days of climbing... REST DAY!
Thu - Yoga
Fri - Drove to the east coast and bought a Fiat Ducato for the roadtrip later this year. Needs insulation and electrics, a couple of beds and it'll do just fine.
Sat - Bouldering at the Cuttings. Didn't cut my finger but tore a great ruddy flapper. Oops. Usual me of new place and new people equals crap climbing but enjoyed the sunshine, the sea and meeting everyone.
Sun - Routes at the Cuttings. Got up a couple of very easy things, didn't get up a 6a due to pidgeons and flayed badly on Consomme (?). Learnt loads tho I feel.
Really needed the rest, pushed a bit to far to be honest but I now know what my boundaries are.
Good things -
Sorting the van for the trip. A bit of a conversion will be needed but being 6ft 1in wide in the back, there's plenty of options.
My new Scarpa Instinct slippers. First time I've really used them this weekend and by the end of today, they didn't even cross my mind. Perfect fit and plenty of feel.
Falling feels fine now - all the practice indoors is working.
Bad things -
Need to get into a routine with other exercise and the diet now.
FFS I'm almost 50 - I should know by now that I have a phobia about birds and heading up a climb with birds flying in and out of the crack you need to use is not going to sort it! I don't know what I was thinking...
Thanks for doing fitclub since you've been back Andy - much appreciated.
Just home after the meet, good to have faces to put to some of the comments. Thanks to Ally for the bed, Andy for sorting it, Kev for the belays and patience and everyone else for group psyche.
Mon - Boulder warmup, then lock off training. Managed a PB of three sets and the last set was 7 (really happy with this). Quick boulder, doing footwork drills.
Tue - Routes. Burtnt out to be honest, so just did easy stuff in the 5s. Finished with a 5+ x 4 going very slowly face on.
Wed - After 11 days of climbing... REST DAY!
Thu - Yoga
Fri - Drove to the east coast and bought a Fiat Ducato for the roadtrip later this year. Needs insulation and electrics, a couple of beds and it'll do just fine.
Sat - Bouldering at the Cuttings. Didn't cut my finger but tore a great ruddy flapper. Oops. Usual me of new place and new people equals crap climbing but enjoyed the sunshine, the sea and meeting everyone.
Sun - Routes at the Cuttings. Got up a couple of very easy things, didn't get up a 6a due to pidgeons and flayed badly on Consomme (?). Learnt loads tho I feel.
Really needed the rest, pushed a bit to far to be honest but I now know what my boundaries are.
Good things -
Sorting the van for the trip. A bit of a conversion will be needed but being 6ft 1in wide in the back, there's plenty of options.
My new Scarpa Instinct slippers. First time I've really used them this weekend and by the end of today, they didn't even cross my mind. Perfect fit and plenty of feel.
Falling feels fine now - all the practice indoors is working.
Bad things -
Need to get into a routine with other exercise and the diet now.
FFS I'm almost 50 - I should know by now that I have a phobia about birds and heading up a climb with birds flying in and out of the crack you need to use is not going to sort it! I don't know what I was thinking...
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for doing the stats. Really appreciate you doing it.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 6lbs (+1 lbs)
M - 45 mins bouldering
T - Core
W - 10 hours driving + funeral
T - 4k run
F - Core
S - Visiting family
S - Core
Month average - 81%
Year average - 81%
Long week with lots of driving. Got a bit of bouldering in on Monday, hope to hit the plan this week as next week I'll be in Cambridge, so the plan will go to heck and back then. Looks like the next few months will be tough from a life point of view, so I really hope I'll at least maintain some sort of plan. I really hope to make the next FC meet as it sounds like you all had a good time.
Thanks for doing the stats. Really appreciate you doing it.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 11st 10lbs weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 6lbs (+1 lbs)
M - 45 mins bouldering
T - Core
W - 10 hours driving + funeral
T - 4k run
F - Core
S - Visiting family
S - Core
Month average - 81%
Year average - 81%
Long week with lots of driving. Got a bit of bouldering in on Monday, hope to hit the plan this week as next week I'll be in Cambridge, so the plan will go to heck and back then. Looks like the next few months will be tough from a life point of view, so I really hope I'll at least maintain some sort of plan. I really hope to make the next FC meet as it sounds like you all had a good time.
In reply to AJM:
Oh, and I totally forgot to mention, I've got a shiny new Swanage guide to induce further psyche (I really need to get back on ropes and back on trad), and I cycled to/fro work 4 times this week, so about 35 miles or so. Grinding back along the seafront into the strong westerlies at the end of the week was very unpleasant but will probably do wonders for my ability to climb hills - that's exactly what it felt like. No option to just go down a gear and spin along slowly! I am hoping to do 4 days a week at least regularly through the winter, I think having one "bye" will be easier on the motivation.
Oh, and I totally forgot to mention, I've got a shiny new Swanage guide to induce further psyche (I really need to get back on ropes and back on trad), and I cycled to/fro work 4 times this week, so about 35 miles or so. Grinding back along the seafront into the strong westerlies at the end of the week was very unpleasant but will probably do wonders for my ability to climb hills - that's exactly what it felt like. No option to just go down a gear and spin along slowly! I am hoping to do 4 days a week at least regularly through the winter, I think having one "bye" will be easier on the motivation.
In reply to AJM: I look forward to hearing all about the Portland exploits. I had originally planned on being in the Cairngorms this weekend but a family birthday party on Saturday put paid to that, and any chance of joining you all down in Dorset...
It was another fairly poor week mainly due to the local wall being shut for re-setting (and painting). It is now bright orange and open again. On the plus side, the two sessions that I did have, on Friday and earlier tonight were both good.
Mon - nowt
Tue - nowt
Wed - nowt
Thurs - nowt
Fri - Boulder at Big Rock, Milton Keynes.
[My first visit the the wall, about an hour away. Very impressed. I managed 19 problems out of 20 on the V3-V5 circuit plus a few from the next circuit up.]
Sat - nowt (family birthday party)
Sun - Boulder. Managed all 44 of the brand new V2-V4 problems
It was another fairly poor week mainly due to the local wall being shut for re-setting (and painting). It is now bright orange and open again. On the plus side, the two sessions that I did have, on Friday and earlier tonight were both good.
Mon - nowt
Tue - nowt
Wed - nowt
Thurs - nowt
Fri - Boulder at Big Rock, Milton Keynes.
[My first visit the the wall, about an hour away. Very impressed. I managed 19 problems out of 20 on the V3-V5 circuit plus a few from the next circuit up.]
Sat - nowt (family birthday party)
Sun - Boulder. Managed all 44 of the brand new V2-V4 problems
In reply to AJM:
M – 10 km run 4:58/km pace. 2 hrs bouldering
T – Fingerboard session. Repeaters on jugs, 4 finger deep, 3 finger deep and one hand on jug one on sloper is all I can manage.
W – 2 hours bouldering/auto belay. Solid session with two new V4s done.
T – 15km 5:01/km pace.
F – 13.5km 5:11/km pace, very windy
S – Nothing
S – 15km 5.09/km pace. 2 hrs bouldering. Good session with another few good attempts on my nemesis fingerathon (next time)
2015 Goals
Sport: 6c
Trad: E2
Bouldering: 6b
Indoor: f7a and font7a
1:35 half marathon
Complete a marathon
STG
4 runs
Both orange 6bs at Indy
Black V4s at Beacon
81kg
M – 10 km run 4:58/km pace. 2 hrs bouldering
T – Fingerboard session. Repeaters on jugs, 4 finger deep, 3 finger deep and one hand on jug one on sloper is all I can manage.
W – 2 hours bouldering/auto belay. Solid session with two new V4s done.
T – 15km 5:01/km pace.
F – 13.5km 5:11/km pace, very windy
S – Nothing
S – 15km 5.09/km pace. 2 hrs bouldering. Good session with another few good attempts on my nemesis fingerathon (next time)
2015 Goals
Sport: 6c
Trad: E2
Bouldering: 6b
Indoor: f7a and font7a
1:35 half marathon
Complete a marathon
STG
4 runs
Both orange 6bs at Indy
Black V4s at Beacon
81kg
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy. Too knackered to write up last night after a super weekend away, so this will be a bit swift as I'm definitely not logged on at work...
M - Cycle commute. Bloc, training for the day was campus board & making up hard woody problems. Better holds than at TCA so got on better.
T - Cycle commute. S&C
W - drove to work then on to TCA to start ~24 circuits and finish rather a lot less. Pyramids so 6aX3, 6cx2, 7ax1, then down again, then repeat. 5 min gaps.
T - Cycle commute. S&C plus fingerboard
F - moved Sat training to fri, so 4x4s on 6b, 6c, 7a, 7a. Got 3 7a tops which is better.
S - Cuttings bouldering, really enjoyed it! Got a V3 & possibly a V4 flash (grade varies between guides).
S - Cuttings routes. 2 6bs, one an amnesia onsight of a routes with a nails start which had closed me down a few years back. Fell off the top of a 7a, repeatedly, couldn't find a sequence. Got very very cold. One to go back to in warmer conditions.
Really great weekend, meeting other fitclub members & drinking AJMs home brew. Let's do it again soon!
Thanks Andy. Too knackered to write up last night after a super weekend away, so this will be a bit swift as I'm definitely not logged on at work...
M - Cycle commute. Bloc, training for the day was campus board & making up hard woody problems. Better holds than at TCA so got on better.
T - Cycle commute. S&C
W - drove to work then on to TCA to start ~24 circuits and finish rather a lot less. Pyramids so 6aX3, 6cx2, 7ax1, then down again, then repeat. 5 min gaps.
T - Cycle commute. S&C plus fingerboard
F - moved Sat training to fri, so 4x4s on 6b, 6c, 7a, 7a. Got 3 7a tops which is better.
S - Cuttings bouldering, really enjoyed it! Got a V3 & possibly a V4 flash (grade varies between guides).
S - Cuttings routes. 2 6bs, one an amnesia onsight of a routes with a nails start which had closed me down a few years back. Fell off the top of a 7a, repeatedly, couldn't find a sequence. Got very very cold. One to go back to in warmer conditions.
Really great weekend, meeting other fitclub members & drinking AJMs home brew. Let's do it again soon!
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM, firstly, apologies for not making it to Portland, we had some dog trouble overnight so were both knackered by the morning and I didn't relish the thought of 3+ hours driving. It's a shame because it looked like the weather really picked up!
I certainly did!
M: Boulder; 50 blocs v1-v4
T: Strength and conditioning
W: Boulder; hard problems/aerocap
T: Rest
F: Strength and Conditioning
S: Fingerboard
S: Climbing, indoor; 6a-7b+ performance session
Another cracking week, volume is staying high and injury management is going really well, especially the elbows which I have now had no trouble with for around 3 weeks despite climbing more than ever before.
For anyone with tennis/golfers elbow tendonitis type problems, I can't recommend the theraband flexbar enough: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thera-Band-Flexbar-Blue-Heavy/dp/B00CEVFXL4/ref=sr_...
It has completely changed my ability to climb hard and often, the elbow pain hasn't just been reduced in intensity or duration, it has just gone, completely gone. I've not felt a tweak in my elbows this year, not one.
After years of elbow trouble, I was hesitant in declaring I had found an instant fix, but i'm getting more and more certain as I continue to climb and continue to have zero issues. Obviously I'm listening to my body when climbing, doing thorough warm ups and stretches and also climbing smarter than before but still, I think it's the Flexbar that is the biggest contributor by far.
50 blocs monday, kept it to v4 for my finger and was surprisingly fresh afterwards, it's almost like training is making me fitter...
I felt so fresh in fact that I had a play with a slopey V6 that looked too tempting to pass up, ticked it in about 4 goes which was pleasing.
Wednesday I picked the hard problems that didn't have crimps (to protect my finger) and ended up straining so hard trying to hold onto rugby ball sized pinches on a roof that a couple of stomach muscles started complaining! Followed by 15min and 20min aero on easy ground.
Fingerboard on saturday felt hard despite doing the same routine as last week, but I got some great forearm burn out of it so it's all good.
In other news, flights and accommodation is booked for Kalymnos, 13 full days of climbing to look forward to, and with my elbows in their current state, I might be able to manage more than 1 on 1 off...
Goals: Keep up the volume, keep managing the injuries, don't do anything stupid.
Thanks AJM, firstly, apologies for not making it to Portland, we had some dog trouble overnight so were both knackered by the morning and I didn't relish the thought of 3+ hours driving. It's a shame because it looked like the weather really picked up!
> Dandan82 - good high volume week - did you keep it up?
I certainly did!
M: Boulder; 50 blocs v1-v4
T: Strength and conditioning
W: Boulder; hard problems/aerocap
T: Rest
F: Strength and Conditioning
S: Fingerboard
S: Climbing, indoor; 6a-7b+ performance session
Another cracking week, volume is staying high and injury management is going really well, especially the elbows which I have now had no trouble with for around 3 weeks despite climbing more than ever before.
For anyone with tennis/golfers elbow tendonitis type problems, I can't recommend the theraband flexbar enough: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thera-Band-Flexbar-Blue-Heavy/dp/B00CEVFXL4/ref=sr_...
It has completely changed my ability to climb hard and often, the elbow pain hasn't just been reduced in intensity or duration, it has just gone, completely gone. I've not felt a tweak in my elbows this year, not one.
After years of elbow trouble, I was hesitant in declaring I had found an instant fix, but i'm getting more and more certain as I continue to climb and continue to have zero issues. Obviously I'm listening to my body when climbing, doing thorough warm ups and stretches and also climbing smarter than before but still, I think it's the Flexbar that is the biggest contributor by far.
50 blocs monday, kept it to v4 for my finger and was surprisingly fresh afterwards, it's almost like training is making me fitter...
I felt so fresh in fact that I had a play with a slopey V6 that looked too tempting to pass up, ticked it in about 4 goes which was pleasing.
Wednesday I picked the hard problems that didn't have crimps (to protect my finger) and ended up straining so hard trying to hold onto rugby ball sized pinches on a roof that a couple of stomach muscles started complaining! Followed by 15min and 20min aero on easy ground.
Fingerboard on saturday felt hard despite doing the same routine as last week, but I got some great forearm burn out of it so it's all good.
In other news, flights and accommodation is booked for Kalymnos, 13 full days of climbing to look forward to, and with my elbows in their current state, I might be able to manage more than 1 on 1 off...
Goals: Keep up the volume, keep managing the injuries, don't do anything stupid.
In reply to AJM:
Not a video, but how about reading some of the Dawn Wall reports here?
http://www.elcapreport.com
> Psyche video of the week... any suggestions?
Not a video, but how about reading some of the Dawn Wall reports here?
http://www.elcapreport.com
In reply to Nick Russell:
After discussing yesterday....
Skip Prisoner of Bullworker - you can come back to it and get a quick tick after doing Milky Bar Kid?
I'll be keen for a Brean hit in the next few weeks if you're about?
I'm keen to do Amanita and reacquaint myself with Upper Wall - combine with Brean for an entertaining weekend?
After discussing yesterday....
> Goals
> Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a) (8a)
> Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
Skip Prisoner of Bullworker - you can come back to it and get a quick tick after doing Milky Bar Kid?
I'll be keen for a Brean hit in the next few weeks if you're about?
> Tick off some of the harder Avon trad that I've not got round to yet
> Amanita, Think Pink, Central Wall, Peryl, Main Wall Elimate, GT Special, Low Profile
I'm keen to do Amanita and reacquaint myself with Upper Wall - combine with Brean for an entertaining weekend?
In reply to Nick Russell:
Yeah i've been following this for the last couple of weeks with great interest.
Yeah i've been following this for the last couple of weeks with great interest.
In reply to Ally Smith:
I'd really like to get to Brean too if you would be happy to show a punter around...
> I'll be keen for a Brean hit in the next few weeks if you're about?
I'd really like to get to Brean too if you would be happy to show a punter around...
In reply to AJM:
Great to meet so many of you down in Portland – Thanks for organisation and home brew from AJM.
I glued back together the candle holder before driving North, but the flat owner may still buy a new one to replace the broken one.
I’ve booked flights for Oliana at the end of Feb – time to knuckle down to some hard and voluminous training this week.
BHAG:
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe?
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP – cherry pick from the list below
- Unjustified/Overjustified & Bat Route, Malham.
- Waddage, Mecca & Extension, Tor.
- True North, Kilnsey
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (Winter ‘14/’15):
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups
- Stay in gainful employment – redundancy looking less likely, but still not certain
- Fisheye and/or Humildes pas Casa, Oliana; End of Feb.
- Headpoint some hard grit
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
- “French Pillar” Jebel Misht, E3 choss at New Year – TICK!
- Healthy shoulders, fingers & elbows – keep following the physio (boo – bad finger)
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Cut the lard; 76.2kg and 6.7% BF. New mantra is “Oli was 9st when he did The Zone”
STG (Last/next week)
- Get back on the finger board
- Re-build the campus board (and make it a bit taller)
- Work out a f7b-ish circuit for aero-cap training.
Last week:
M - Rest. Scuba diving in Dubai on the way home from Oman. Late night taking lots of photos.
T - Rest – morning walking round Dubai, then 7 hour flight home with screaming babies, only eased by drinking 3 double G&T’s.
W - Woke at 3am with jet lag start, but maintained motivation and did boulder volume session. Embraced the 45 board.
T - Still a bit jet lagged. Back to the 45 board for linked boulders an-cap. Failed on move 10 midway through last set. Continuity aero-cap on auto-belay, mixing 7a and 6b+’s to keep it a manageable pump. Very sore skin.
F - Rest. Shoulder DOMS. Long drive South.
S - Cuttings boulder field. Bunch of new stuff upto V7. Hard to read grey rock. Finger seems to be on the mend – did some crimping.
S - Cuttings. 6b warm-up. Fighting Torque, 8a, dog x3. Worked viable sequence, but looks quite different to Quiddity’s http://gamesclimbersplay.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/fighting-torque.html 7a+ flash warm-down (no arguments on the old 7a+ grade from me HMS). Long drive North; stretch and foam roller when I got home.
Great to meet so many of you down in Portland – Thanks for organisation and home brew from AJM.
I glued back together the candle holder before driving North, but the flat owner may still buy a new one to replace the broken one.
I’ve booked flights for Oliana at the end of Feb – time to knuckle down to some hard and voluminous training this week.
BHAG:
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe?
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP – cherry pick from the list below
- Unjustified/Overjustified & Bat Route, Malham.
- Waddage, Mecca & Extension, Tor.
- True North, Kilnsey
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (Winter ‘14/’15):
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups
- Stay in gainful employment – redundancy looking less likely, but still not certain
- Fisheye and/or Humildes pas Casa, Oliana; End of Feb.
- Headpoint some hard grit
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
- “French Pillar” Jebel Misht, E3 choss at New Year – TICK!
- Healthy shoulders, fingers & elbows – keep following the physio (boo – bad finger)
- Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Cut the lard; 76.2kg and 6.7% BF. New mantra is “Oli was 9st when he did The Zone”
STG (Last/next week)
- Get back on the finger board
- Re-build the campus board (and make it a bit taller)
- Work out a f7b-ish circuit for aero-cap training.
Last week:
M - Rest. Scuba diving in Dubai on the way home from Oman. Late night taking lots of photos.
T - Rest – morning walking round Dubai, then 7 hour flight home with screaming babies, only eased by drinking 3 double G&T’s.
W - Woke at 3am with jet lag start, but maintained motivation and did boulder volume session. Embraced the 45 board.
T - Still a bit jet lagged. Back to the 45 board for linked boulders an-cap. Failed on move 10 midway through last set. Continuity aero-cap on auto-belay, mixing 7a and 6b+’s to keep it a manageable pump. Very sore skin.
F - Rest. Shoulder DOMS. Long drive South.
S - Cuttings boulder field. Bunch of new stuff upto V7. Hard to read grey rock. Finger seems to be on the mend – did some crimping.
S - Cuttings. 6b warm-up. Fighting Torque, 8a, dog x3. Worked viable sequence, but looks quite different to Quiddity’s http://gamesclimbersplay.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/fighting-torque.html 7a+ flash warm-down (no arguments on the old 7a+ grade from me HMS). Long drive North; stretch and foam roller when I got home.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Yeah, probably a good call. I'll probably only give it one more session on Guilt Edge before moving on to Bullworker. I should be about so give me a shout if you're coming down here. I'm keen for the Avon/Brean combo.
> Skip Prisoner of Bullworker... I'll be keen for a Brean hit in the next few weeks if you're about?
Yeah, probably a good call. I'll probably only give it one more session on Guilt Edge before moving on to Bullworker. I should be about so give me a shout if you're coming down here. I'm keen for the Avon/Brean combo.
In reply to Dandan:
Interested what exercises you do with the theraband bar. I got one for Christmas but haven't quite known what to do with it. Elbow a touch sore after Cuttings bouldering so think using it could be a v good idea.
Interested what exercises you do with the theraband bar. I got one for Christmas but haven't quite known what to do with it. Elbow a touch sore after Cuttings bouldering so think using it could be a v good idea.
In reply to Ally Smith:
I think you deserve a substantial amount of the thanks for hosting us all, although the biggest kudos of all has got to go to everyone who choked down my homebrew (or at least waited until I was out of the room before pouring it away) in the interests of politeness!
Good weekend though!
I could potentially be interested in Brean sometime soon especially if I can split driving over with Dan, although to be honest I'm more interested in tidying my unfinished business and wishlist at Avon, cheddar and wintours really, will try and make a spring pilgrimage for some of that I think.
I think you deserve a substantial amount of the thanks for hosting us all, although the biggest kudos of all has got to go to everyone who choked down my homebrew (or at least waited until I was out of the room before pouring it away) in the interests of politeness!
Good weekend though!
I could potentially be interested in Brean sometime soon especially if I can split driving over with Dan, although to be honest I'm more interested in tidying my unfinished business and wishlist at Avon, cheddar and wintours really, will try and make a spring pilgrimage for some of that I think.
In reply to hms:
I was thinking by the way following on from our discussions about Chulilla projects and not wanting to aim too big for fear of leaving empty handed - you could always turn that on its head and go for wad tactics - aim really big, scope the ground out, and aim just to get an idea of what to train before you come back.
No/reduces fear of failure for this trip that way, and if you can keep up current training volumes and focus your training time intelligently on your weaknesses relative to a specific route you could be looking at a rematch next year to collect a 7c+/8a tick?
I was thinking by the way following on from our discussions about Chulilla projects and not wanting to aim too big for fear of leaving empty handed - you could always turn that on its head and go for wad tactics - aim really big, scope the ground out, and aim just to get an idea of what to train before you come back.
No/reduces fear of failure for this trip that way, and if you can keep up current training volumes and focus your training time intelligently on your weaknesses relative to a specific route you could be looking at a rematch next year to collect a 7c+/8a tick?
In reply to AJM:
I do have a quite severe fear of failure which can be quite unhelpful - keeps me off hard stuff, and metally wobbly when redpointing at my limit cos I', fretting about not doing as well as the prev high point. This is all something that UKC doesn't always help, as I hate those greyed out entries in my logbook. Do wonder if making it only visible to partners would be a good idea. Doesn't apply to bouldering as I'm quite happy to hurl myself at stuff and fail. I don't catagorise myself as a boulderer so don't worry about it.
Slight snaggette with your suggestion is that I have absolutely no idea when a return visit to Chulilla might be possible. So far, only other stuff this year is a long weekend in early March to area around Gandia. All other trips in the forseeable future are in this country (unless your offer on Fri night was serious - I'll mail you). So the training has been specifically for Chulilla and he's tried to tailor the plan a bit for the sorts of routes I might get on.
I do have a quite severe fear of failure which can be quite unhelpful - keeps me off hard stuff, and metally wobbly when redpointing at my limit cos I', fretting about not doing as well as the prev high point. This is all something that UKC doesn't always help, as I hate those greyed out entries in my logbook. Do wonder if making it only visible to partners would be a good idea. Doesn't apply to bouldering as I'm quite happy to hurl myself at stuff and fail. I don't catagorise myself as a boulderer so don't worry about it.
Slight snaggette with your suggestion is that I have absolutely no idea when a return visit to Chulilla might be possible. So far, only other stuff this year is a long weekend in early March to area around Gandia. All other trips in the forseeable future are in this country (unless your offer on Fri night was serious - I'll mail you). So the training has been specifically for Chulilla and he's tried to tailor the plan a bit for the sorts of routes I might get on.
In reply to hms:
I just do the two very simple wrist twists described in this article: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6156
I do both twists, one for Golfer's and one for Tennis elbow as it seems to me it can't hurt to balance them out.
10 slow reps, 2 sets of each twist on each hand, 2-3 times a day, easy.
I just do the two very simple wrist twists described in this article: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6156
I do both twists, one for Golfer's and one for Tennis elbow as it seems to me it can't hurt to balance them out.
10 slow reps, 2 sets of each twist on each hand, 2-3 times a day, easy.
In reply to Ally Smith:
I've seen Torque sent the way Quiddity describes but the first beta I got is much more direct above the underclings, using the tiny nubbin in the groove as a handhold and involving some kind of monstrous reach around to the left of the bulge at some point. I've a feeling this direct route gives the full grade and the wandering line may be a touch softer, but that's purely my opinion.
Also, which 7a(+) has been given a downgrade? I guess thats in the CC book?
> S - Cuttings. 6b warm-up. Fighting Torque, 8a, dog x3. Worked viable sequence, but looks quite different to Quiddity’s http://gamesclimbersplay.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/fighting-torque.html 7a+ flash warm-down (no arguments on the old 7a+ grade from me HMS). Long drive North; stretch and foam roller when I got home.
I've seen Torque sent the way Quiddity describes but the first beta I got is much more direct above the underclings, using the tiny nubbin in the groove as a handhold and involving some kind of monstrous reach around to the left of the bulge at some point. I've a feeling this direct route gives the full grade and the wandering line may be a touch softer, but that's purely my opinion.
Also, which 7a(+) has been given a downgrade? I guess thats in the CC book?
In reply to hms:
I was thinking slightly longer term than "when else could I get there this Spring"! - as an example Ally was thinking of applying this tactic in the Red and using a few days in spring to scope an 8b+ which he would then train for with the intention of ticking at the end of the year.
I would be very interested in returning early next year sometime, hopefully for a week but who knowsthis far into the future....
I'll await your mail.
I was thinking slightly longer term than "when else could I get there this Spring"! - as an example Ally was thinking of applying this tactic in the Red and using a few days in spring to scope an 8b+ which he would then train for with the intention of ticking at the end of the year.
I would be very interested in returning early next year sometime, hopefully for a week but who knowsthis far into the future....
I'll await your mail.
In reply to Dandan:
7a/+ is Modern Nightmare.
My FT sequence involved getting the hold Quiddity describes as rolling over too as a long reach, then rolling over leftwards off the gaston/thumb sprag hold Nick was reaching up to a finger jug from (I missed this hold - might make things simpler if i find it next time!)
7a/+ is Modern Nightmare.
My FT sequence involved getting the hold Quiddity describes as rolling over too as a long reach, then rolling over leftwards off the gaston/thumb sprag hold Nick was reaching up to a finger jug from (I missed this hold - might make things simpler if i find it next time!)
In reply to Ally Smith:
Ah I see, it's been a while but I think I know the move you are describing, I think rather than rolling over to it I gastoned it with left hand and then shift weight across left on bad feet until you could reset right foot higher, does that sound possible? From there I'm sure i carried on left a bit, not reaching up to a finger jug, I might have to keep an eye out for that if I ever get back on the route...
Ah I see, it's been a while but I think I know the move you are describing, I think rather than rolling over to it I gastoned it with left hand and then shift weight across left on bad feet until you could reset right foot higher, does that sound possible? From there I'm sure i carried on left a bit, not reaching up to a finger jug, I might have to keep an eye out for that if I ever get back on the route...
In reply to AJM:
Cheers for doing Fit club Andy.
A good week this week.
M - Cycle commute. Indoor routes - F3, 4, 4+. Nice easy start to the year after a niggly injury.
T - Cycle commute. Run 5.3km at 80%HR. Batteries went on GPS, so finished run early.
W - Cycle commute. Indoor routes - F4, 4+, 5. Took on board aero comments and climbed at a sustained pace for a couple of hours until knackered. Really felt the benefit a few days later.
T - Cycle commute, got bloody soaked! Run 6.8km at 80% HR.
F - Cycle commute. Rest. Curry!
S - Rest.
S - Fun morning down Pinnacle teaching mates GF to climb / belay & hold falls whilst he climbed. Felt strong and flashed a F5 and then a F5+ immediately after (the purple line MrChewy suggested in FC 407, cheers!). All done with zero pump. My Daughter did her first proper lead climbs as well, so we all went home with a smile. Full English brekkie to top it off!
Cheers for doing Fit club Andy.
A good week this week.
M - Cycle commute. Indoor routes - F3, 4, 4+. Nice easy start to the year after a niggly injury.
T - Cycle commute. Run 5.3km at 80%HR. Batteries went on GPS, so finished run early.
W - Cycle commute. Indoor routes - F4, 4+, 5. Took on board aero comments and climbed at a sustained pace for a couple of hours until knackered. Really felt the benefit a few days later.
T - Cycle commute, got bloody soaked! Run 6.8km at 80% HR.
F - Cycle commute. Rest. Curry!
S - Rest.
S - Fun morning down Pinnacle teaching mates GF to climb / belay & hold falls whilst he climbed. Felt strong and flashed a F5 and then a F5+ immediately after (the purple line MrChewy suggested in FC 407, cheers!). All done with zero pump. My Daughter did her first proper lead climbs as well, so we all went home with a smile. Full English brekkie to top it off!
In reply to hms:
& AJM.
Yep - 4 or 5 day side trip to the Red whilst on business travel this spring, then RP in the autumn.
Similarly, I haven't settled on whether i'll redpoint or on-sight in Chulilla at the end of Jan. Having settled on either, I could easily fit in another trip to balance out the options the next time around.
& AJM.
Yep - 4 or 5 day side trip to the Red whilst on business travel this spring, then RP in the autumn.
Similarly, I haven't settled on whether i'll redpoint or on-sight in Chulilla at the end of Jan. Having settled on either, I could easily fit in another trip to balance out the options the next time around.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for your FC stint AJM.
Last week:
Upped my ARC traverse grade, and will work on increasing the length up to 45 mins non stop over the next couple of weeks. Good session on sunday, as it feels like I am improving, which can be hard to gauge at times, especially with the inconsistencies of indoor grading...
M - Rest
T - Wall. 90 mins bouldering up to v4. 30 min system board - 12 moves on every five minute mark.
ARC Traverse - 20 mins 6a+, 5 mins rest, 20 mins 5 +. Good session, arms really felt powered out afterwards.
W - 45mins core strength work. Then FB repeaters. 3 sets.
Half crimp 30mm (+2kg), Front 3 30mm (+3kgs), 35° Sloper (-7kgs). No gains.
T - Rest
F - 45mins core strength work. Then FB repeaters. 2 sets.
Half crimp 30mm (+2kg), Front 3 30mm (+3kgs), 35° Sloper (-7kgs). No gains.
S - 45mins core strength work.
S - Wall. 5 - 6 hour route session. Up to 7a. Shattered.
STG (By Feb 2015)
• Improve at sloper repeaters
• Onsight wall 7a on lead
• RP Wall 7a+
• Increase the 6a+ traverse time (Currently 20 mins)
Thanks for your FC stint AJM.
Last week:
Upped my ARC traverse grade, and will work on increasing the length up to 45 mins non stop over the next couple of weeks. Good session on sunday, as it feels like I am improving, which can be hard to gauge at times, especially with the inconsistencies of indoor grading...
M - Rest
T - Wall. 90 mins bouldering up to v4. 30 min system board - 12 moves on every five minute mark.
ARC Traverse - 20 mins 6a+, 5 mins rest, 20 mins 5 +. Good session, arms really felt powered out afterwards.
W - 45mins core strength work. Then FB repeaters. 3 sets.
Half crimp 30mm (+2kg), Front 3 30mm (+3kgs), 35° Sloper (-7kgs). No gains.
T - Rest
F - 45mins core strength work. Then FB repeaters. 2 sets.
Half crimp 30mm (+2kg), Front 3 30mm (+3kgs), 35° Sloper (-7kgs). No gains.
S - 45mins core strength work.
S - Wall. 5 - 6 hour route session. Up to 7a. Shattered.
STG (By Feb 2015)
• Improve at sloper repeaters
• Onsight wall 7a on lead
• RP Wall 7a+
• Increase the 6a+ traverse time (Currently 20 mins)
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the last few weeks, now welcome Nick!
M - 10.0 miles, 7:38 pace (per mile, that is. 7:30 pace is about 4:41 / km)
T - 7.9 miles off road run to catch a lift home, very muddy, lost 8:30 ish pace. Surrounded by four large dogs off lead, barking at me, in darkness. Where is the owner??
W - 10.1 miles run to catch a lift home 7:38 pace, half off-road, hoping I was going the right way.
T - 9.2 miles run to catch a lift home 7:22 pace, half off-road. Made it, just! Great run, apart from the shouty dog left on its own outside a property, blocking the path, barking at me.
F -
S - 10.8 miles, flat then hilly. 7:48 pace, with the six flat miles at < 7:30
S - 10.0 miles, coast path, muddy and windy. 9:00 ish pace
58 miles, about 5000ft of ascent. Not as hilly as previous weeks, and no really long run,but I wanted to just go a bit faster.
Thanks for the last few weeks, now welcome Nick!
M - 10.0 miles, 7:38 pace (per mile, that is. 7:30 pace is about 4:41 / km)
T - 7.9 miles off road run to catch a lift home, very muddy, lost 8:30 ish pace. Surrounded by four large dogs off lead, barking at me, in darkness. Where is the owner??
W - 10.1 miles run to catch a lift home 7:38 pace, half off-road, hoping I was going the right way.
T - 9.2 miles run to catch a lift home 7:22 pace, half off-road. Made it, just! Great run, apart from the shouty dog left on its own outside a property, blocking the path, barking at me.
F -
S - 10.8 miles, flat then hilly. 7:48 pace, with the six flat miles at < 7:30
S - 10.0 miles, coast path, muddy and windy. 9:00 ish pace
58 miles, about 5000ft of ascent. Not as hilly as previous weeks, and no really long run,but I wanted to just go a bit faster.
Not the best week, first week back to a physical job so have been tired from that
Mon - Easy run 60mins
Fri - 20mins on the mtb, weather mad!
Sat - 1hr on the mtb
Sun - Club run 8 miles on trails
Mon - Easy run 60mins
Fri - 20mins on the mtb, weather mad!
Sat - 1hr on the mtb
Sun - Club run 8 miles on trails
In reply to AJM:
For a final time.... thanks AJM! Hope you enjoyed the cuttings - have fond memories (and a few not so fond) of that crag and climbed so good routes there. Hopefully one day I'll go back!
M: Hamstring wasn't good so didn't run but managed at the last minute to see a physio recommended by one of the lads at the club so went and endured some painful massage and dry needling (ouch).
Tu: Hamstring much better! Apparently one of the muscles was in spasm. am - 4.5M to work in 34:05, pm - run home from work 8/9M in 59:29
W: am - run to work, 4.5M in 31:56, pm 10M run home in 65:16
Th: am - 4.5M to work in 32:30, pm - 10M home in 64:57
F: Tired! lunchtime - 4/5M easy in 34:56. Decided late to run in the XC league the following day as hamstring was ok
Sa: Cross Country league - cold and very windy, hilly course (3 laps) but not as muddy as it might have been. Started slowly (even for me) due I think to not being fully recovered. Went up the big hill for the first time in about 8/9th. Turned to come back down it and felt my other hamstring - arse! Decided to carry on as it wasn't terrible and worked my way up into 3rd but when the positions previous owner picked it up with around 800m to go I decided not to risk my hamstring and so regrettably let a gap open. Finished 4th about 30-40 seconds behind the winner and 8-10 seconds behind 3rd. Would have been happy with that apart from my other hamstring now being a problem! Got home and had a massage from the wife on hamstring and got the heat pack on it which helped. Didn't go out for a recovery run.
Su: Hamstring not too bad so did 55min with the wife and then another hour on my own nice and easy. 15.5M total in 2:00:03
70M total which wasn't quite what I was aiming for but had to cut back due to hamstrings at either end of the week. We are now a one car household so this means I'll be running to and from work quite a bit and is ideal for getting in mileage although running with a bag might not be optimal. Need to work again on my lower back (and mid back) as these are both very inflexible and that's probably putting my strain on my hamstrings. Off to see the physio again in the coming week!
For a final time.... thanks AJM! Hope you enjoyed the cuttings - have fond memories (and a few not so fond) of that crag and climbed so good routes there. Hopefully one day I'll go back!
M: Hamstring wasn't good so didn't run but managed at the last minute to see a physio recommended by one of the lads at the club so went and endured some painful massage and dry needling (ouch).
Tu: Hamstring much better! Apparently one of the muscles was in spasm. am - 4.5M to work in 34:05, pm - run home from work 8/9M in 59:29
W: am - run to work, 4.5M in 31:56, pm 10M run home in 65:16
Th: am - 4.5M to work in 32:30, pm - 10M home in 64:57
F: Tired! lunchtime - 4/5M easy in 34:56. Decided late to run in the XC league the following day as hamstring was ok
Sa: Cross Country league - cold and very windy, hilly course (3 laps) but not as muddy as it might have been. Started slowly (even for me) due I think to not being fully recovered. Went up the big hill for the first time in about 8/9th. Turned to come back down it and felt my other hamstring - arse! Decided to carry on as it wasn't terrible and worked my way up into 3rd but when the positions previous owner picked it up with around 800m to go I decided not to risk my hamstring and so regrettably let a gap open. Finished 4th about 30-40 seconds behind the winner and 8-10 seconds behind 3rd. Would have been happy with that apart from my other hamstring now being a problem! Got home and had a massage from the wife on hamstring and got the heat pack on it which helped. Didn't go out for a recovery run.
Su: Hamstring not too bad so did 55min with the wife and then another hour on my own nice and easy. 15.5M total in 2:00:03
70M total which wasn't quite what I was aiming for but had to cut back due to hamstrings at either end of the week. We are now a one car household so this means I'll be running to and from work quite a bit and is ideal for getting in mileage although running with a bag might not be optimal. Need to work again on my lower back (and mid back) as these are both very inflexible and that's probably putting my strain on my hamstrings. Off to see the physio again in the coming week!
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy,
Thanks too to those who joined in the FC portland (Cuttings) meet. Accommodation, food, beer, spotting, belays, beta, idle chatter and good humour. Thank you all!
My week climbing wise consisted of being at the cuttings.
Sat: Late start/bouldering. Didn't get into the bouldering much, not sure why. Got 4 roped climbs in too. Refreshed myself on HOM, though need to climb more often to keep the fitness up for the crux without sagging my ass.
Sun: Easy day, got a 7a (finesse) and tried to onsight unknown arete, also 7a. Besides that a few 6's.
Must have done some work - my forearms ached until the end of monday.
Goals: Get psyche back and climb weekly would be a good start, then back at it properly.
Thanks, Kev.
Thanks Andy,
Thanks too to those who joined in the FC portland (Cuttings) meet. Accommodation, food, beer, spotting, belays, beta, idle chatter and good humour. Thank you all!
My week climbing wise consisted of being at the cuttings.
Sat: Late start/bouldering. Didn't get into the bouldering much, not sure why. Got 4 roped climbs in too. Refreshed myself on HOM, though need to climb more often to keep the fitness up for the crux without sagging my ass.
Sun: Easy day, got a 7a (finesse) and tried to onsight unknown arete, also 7a. Besides that a few 6's.
Must have done some work - my forearms ached until the end of monday.
Goals: Get psyche back and climb weekly would be a good start, then back at it properly.
Thanks, Kev.
In reply to AJM:
Glad you all had a decent boulder at the Cuttings. Busy week training new staff at work but glad to get a decent amount of sessions it notwithstanding. Also, TRAPEZE! My new sport and brilliant stuff. We’re being fastracked as clearly climbers have good basics.
Ps. Kick me if I don’t set any goals by next week.
M – Trapeze. Best rest day ever and definitely most interesting and challenging strength and conditioning I’ve ever done.
T –rest
W – busy work. Hangboard
T – busy work. Handboard.
F – Boulder Milton Keynes to V4 onsight
S – Boulder Wirksworth. Huge flapper ripped on a dyno. So much blood for a crappy injury and had to fill in an accident report form.
S – Lead Wirksworth up to 6c onsight and some poddling bouldering. Open hand climbing and crimps only due to crap skin.
Glad you all had a decent boulder at the Cuttings. Busy week training new staff at work but glad to get a decent amount of sessions it notwithstanding. Also, TRAPEZE! My new sport and brilliant stuff. We’re being fastracked as clearly climbers have good basics.
Ps. Kick me if I don’t set any goals by next week.
M – Trapeze. Best rest day ever and definitely most interesting and challenging strength and conditioning I’ve ever done.
T –rest
W – busy work. Hangboard
T – busy work. Handboard.
F – Boulder Milton Keynes to V4 onsight
S – Boulder Wirksworth. Huge flapper ripped on a dyno. So much blood for a crappy injury and had to fill in an accident report form.
S – Lead Wirksworth up to 6c onsight and some poddling bouldering. Open hand climbing and crimps only due to crap skin.
In reply to AJM:
Also if anyone's Portland way this weekend, we'll head either to Blacknor or Cuttings for sport depending on which side the wind's on, so could have a Fit Club redux if anyone's keen
Also if anyone's Portland way this weekend, we'll head either to Blacknor or Cuttings for sport depending on which side the wind's on, so could have a Fit Club redux if anyone's keen
In reply to AJM:
Late entry.
Cheers for your efforts Andy.
Quick round up is that I got the 7a+ despite sabotaging myself a couple of times. When it went it felt easy.
I had a notable improvement in stamina as I was able to recover and try the route 3 times in a session after other routes up to 7a.
Decided now to train for 3 weeks and then have a performance session every 4 weeks when new routes are set on the main walls.
I am just doing 1 routes session a week atm and still improving, weird but good. Still doing fall practice for warm up. Slow, painful, improvements but it'll be worth it in the end.
I have just started to get back on my fingerboard after over a year off. I used to be able to do multiple repeats on the lower rungs, mid 2, with added weight. Currently on the biggest slots, chisel grip and 35 slopers. That's it. Can't hang 3 finger never mind 2 finger. However I am climbing well so some quick gains to be made there. Slowly starting some core work too.
Started keeping a training diary which has confirmed a couple of things and helped me drop a couple of % body fat - which was needed. Mindful eating ( writing down everything I eat) has also helped me cut out a lot of sugar and my appetite has settled with no real peaks or troughs.
What my diary has pointed out, weak fingers and lack of sleep were proven this week. Good to do it and highlight easy things to sort. Obvious stuff you don't always spot.
Next week is going to be more focussed in the climbing session. Starting with doubles and lots of failure and a couple of easy fb sessions.
Running is still progressing. Got a couple of races booked in and started some speed work. This felt very slow tbh but looking back I could run 30secs a mile quicker for 5 miles than I could for 3 miles when I started back running a while ago so it's progress.
Late entry.
Cheers for your efforts Andy.
Quick round up is that I got the 7a+ despite sabotaging myself a couple of times. When it went it felt easy.
I had a notable improvement in stamina as I was able to recover and try the route 3 times in a session after other routes up to 7a.
Decided now to train for 3 weeks and then have a performance session every 4 weeks when new routes are set on the main walls.
I am just doing 1 routes session a week atm and still improving, weird but good. Still doing fall practice for warm up. Slow, painful, improvements but it'll be worth it in the end.
I have just started to get back on my fingerboard after over a year off. I used to be able to do multiple repeats on the lower rungs, mid 2, with added weight. Currently on the biggest slots, chisel grip and 35 slopers. That's it. Can't hang 3 finger never mind 2 finger. However I am climbing well so some quick gains to be made there. Slowly starting some core work too.
Started keeping a training diary which has confirmed a couple of things and helped me drop a couple of % body fat - which was needed. Mindful eating ( writing down everything I eat) has also helped me cut out a lot of sugar and my appetite has settled with no real peaks or troughs.
What my diary has pointed out, weak fingers and lack of sleep were proven this week. Good to do it and highlight easy things to sort. Obvious stuff you don't always spot.
Next week is going to be more focussed in the climbing session. Starting with doubles and lots of failure and a couple of easy fb sessions.
Running is still progressing. Got a couple of races booked in and started some speed work. This felt very slow tbh but looking back I could run 30secs a mile quicker for 5 miles than I could for 3 miles when I started back running a while ago so it's progress.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...