This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC Fit Club Week 429
Getting back to full strength on the FitClub this week, almost everyone posted and it seems everyone is doing well. Hopefully the naff weather at the start of the week hasn’t put a dampner on too many people’s plans? My boulder shed didn’t blow away so I’m happy…
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=616927
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week:
Last week's posters:
Dandan82 – Outdoors TWICE in one week? Steady on
The Ex-Engineer – Steady on those elbows, which is rich, coming from me…
Exile – Interesting varied week of activity, slate sounds like fun
hms – some good consolidation going on, sounds like you are climbing well
AJM – Lots of fingerboarding, offset nicely by the morning mini-rave…
planetmarshall – So, new training period, how is it?
mbh – Good news on the chest pain and well done on mega miles
flopsicle – I think you should set your sights on 7a personally…
Cheese Monkey – fun packed week, when is the Tri?
Tyler – More ticks, on fire! Sounds like you have things well in hand
mattrm – Good week, always nice to hear an experienced eye telling you that you are improving.
Nick Russell – May be absent, enjoy your holiday!
Joyce – You really jump between sport and bouldering a lot, wish I had chance to do that
biscuit – Well done with the confident trad, it’s a real hurdle
Joughton – Did you get your results…?
Ally Smith – Good work on ABH! Finger playing ball?
Ian Rock – New bike sounds good, first time I got on a road bike I couldn’t figure out why cars weren’t overtaking me until I realised I was doing the speed limit...
Luke Owens – Nice couple of weeks, is the tonsilitis gone now?
alexm198 – Nice bunch of ticks, Psyche returned this week?
0.5 viking – kids coach sounds cool, cramp sounds less cool!
Humperdink – Awesome result Saturday, really impressive!
Mutl3y – Congratulations on the wedding! And the zillion press ups
Creedence – how is the new house located re climbing spots?
Roadrunner5 – Well done on the big race, 55miles is just incomprehensible to me
Just Tintin – Good volume! Are you going for your CWLA? I want to do that.
AWOL: Lancer, JayK.
Getting back to full strength on the FitClub this week, almost everyone posted and it seems everyone is doing well. Hopefully the naff weather at the start of the week hasn’t put a dampner on too many people’s plans? My boulder shed didn’t blow away so I’m happy…
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=616927
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week:
Last week's posters:
Dandan82 – Outdoors TWICE in one week? Steady on
The Ex-Engineer – Steady on those elbows, which is rich, coming from me…
Exile – Interesting varied week of activity, slate sounds like fun
hms – some good consolidation going on, sounds like you are climbing well
AJM – Lots of fingerboarding, offset nicely by the morning mini-rave…
planetmarshall – So, new training period, how is it?
mbh – Good news on the chest pain and well done on mega miles
flopsicle – I think you should set your sights on 7a personally…
Cheese Monkey – fun packed week, when is the Tri?
Tyler – More ticks, on fire! Sounds like you have things well in hand
mattrm – Good week, always nice to hear an experienced eye telling you that you are improving.
Nick Russell – May be absent, enjoy your holiday!
Joyce – You really jump between sport and bouldering a lot, wish I had chance to do that
biscuit – Well done with the confident trad, it’s a real hurdle
Joughton – Did you get your results…?
Ally Smith – Good work on ABH! Finger playing ball?
Ian Rock – New bike sounds good, first time I got on a road bike I couldn’t figure out why cars weren’t overtaking me until I realised I was doing the speed limit...
Luke Owens – Nice couple of weeks, is the tonsilitis gone now?
alexm198 – Nice bunch of ticks, Psyche returned this week?
0.5 viking – kids coach sounds cool, cramp sounds less cool!
Humperdink – Awesome result Saturday, really impressive!
Mutl3y – Congratulations on the wedding! And the zillion press ups
Creedence – how is the new house located re climbing spots?
Roadrunner5 – Well done on the big race, 55miles is just incomprehensible to me
Just Tintin – Good volume! Are you going for your CWLA? I want to do that.
AWOL: Lancer, JayK.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers for the thread - appreciated!
Re a new goal. I Got at least F7a by Depot grading today (was soft!) - granted a first on that circuit, spotted and encouraged by Offwidth, however what I climbed is in a different stratesphere to F7a at notts, which feels untouchable.
There are a few people that I absolutely respect that seem to expect me to get up the grades and get up climbs I'm getting spanked on. I'm not sure whether it's lack of pulling my finger out on the strength training, lack of bottle or lack of confidence - any of those would be fair comment. I work hard enough at style (and flippin' need to!), I practice and stay fit. I'm trying to make sure I do the things that do scare me - up to a point, but I struggle on high bouldering cruxes. My head game would make truly hardened trad climber either laugh or despair but the feelings stay just as real when I feel them.
I really want a notts F7 as a goal, just don't think I'd get it - I'm a fair way off it.
This week has been another one hard to keep stuff rolling. My Mum was ill so had to sort out things for my parents and I lost climbing time as daughter's dad declined his weds and sun. I took 2 hrs A/L to get some leading in on Thurs, otherwise all been a bit bitty.
Mon - 3 miles running, hills - it's always hills!
Tues - Nowt.
Weds - Squeezed 2 miles in!
Thurs - 2 miles running, 2 hrs climbing, 2 mile running with my daughter (she busted 1 min off her mile pace, just flew it, so proud!)
Fri - 2 hrs climbing, felt short. 2 miles with daughter again - the short a**sed bugger is making me run!
Sat - Nowt
Sun - Bouldering with daughter so didn't do much, did a bit though... She bouldered about the best she ever has so it was good fun.
Cheers for the thread - appreciated!
Re a new goal. I Got at least F7a by Depot grading today (was soft!) - granted a first on that circuit, spotted and encouraged by Offwidth, however what I climbed is in a different stratesphere to F7a at notts, which feels untouchable.
There are a few people that I absolutely respect that seem to expect me to get up the grades and get up climbs I'm getting spanked on. I'm not sure whether it's lack of pulling my finger out on the strength training, lack of bottle or lack of confidence - any of those would be fair comment. I work hard enough at style (and flippin' need to!), I practice and stay fit. I'm trying to make sure I do the things that do scare me - up to a point, but I struggle on high bouldering cruxes. My head game would make truly hardened trad climber either laugh or despair but the feelings stay just as real when I feel them.
I really want a notts F7 as a goal, just don't think I'd get it - I'm a fair way off it.
This week has been another one hard to keep stuff rolling. My Mum was ill so had to sort out things for my parents and I lost climbing time as daughter's dad declined his weds and sun. I took 2 hrs A/L to get some leading in on Thurs, otherwise all been a bit bitty.
Mon - 3 miles running, hills - it's always hills!
Tues - Nowt.
Weds - Squeezed 2 miles in!
Thurs - 2 miles running, 2 hrs climbing, 2 mile running with my daughter (she busted 1 min off her mile pace, just flew it, so proud!)
Fri - 2 hrs climbing, felt short. 2 miles with daughter again - the short a**sed bugger is making me run!
Sat - Nowt
Sun - Bouldering with daughter so didn't do much, did a bit though... She bouldered about the best she ever has so it was good fun.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan
M: Planned rest
T: Planned rest
W: Kilnsey in the evening, didn't even make it to the eyes, too wet to go to top but that didn't matter as I was shit. Just needed to remind myself how lucky I am to be on one of the best routes in the country after work.
T: Went to the outhouse but skin too sore to do laps. Played on the GBH circuit but still can't do the drop down. Managed a lacklustre hour
F: Planned rest
S: Planned rest
S: Warmed up by going to the bolt before the eyes then had three goes. R3- then dogged to top (learnt some good beta for RP crux if I ever get there). Second go R4+ then eyes to top, third go R4- then eyes to RP crux. Last go fell off going to the eyes. Need to be a lot fitter to have a fourth go on this route in a session. 3x 10 pull ups when I got home is the good news, the bad news is my weight was back up to 11stone 2 after briefly getting below 11 stone midweek
Although the extra rest payed dividends today I could do with a more intense week this week but it'll be the opposite due to work and visiting my dad in hospital
Cheers Dan
M: Planned rest
T: Planned rest
W: Kilnsey in the evening, didn't even make it to the eyes, too wet to go to top but that didn't matter as I was shit. Just needed to remind myself how lucky I am to be on one of the best routes in the country after work.
T: Went to the outhouse but skin too sore to do laps. Played on the GBH circuit but still can't do the drop down. Managed a lacklustre hour
F: Planned rest
S: Planned rest
S: Warmed up by going to the bolt before the eyes then had three goes. R3- then dogged to top (learnt some good beta for RP crux if I ever get there). Second go R4+ then eyes to top, third go R4- then eyes to RP crux. Last go fell off going to the eyes. Need to be a lot fitter to have a fourth go on this route in a session. 3x 10 pull ups when I got home is the good news, the bad news is my weight was back up to 11stone 2 after briefly getting below 11 stone midweek
Although the extra rest payed dividends today I could do with a more intense week this week but it'll be the opposite due to work and visiting my dad in hospital
Post edited at 21:25
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.
I can only remember vague details of what I did this week.
Monday - wall. I think I did some wide and bottom pull-ups. I definitely spent some time bouldering. I think I did a rings shoulder session, definitely either Monday or Tuesday.
Tuesday - wall. Was going to do my aerobic stuff but got sidetracked into a nemesis problem just before reset. Got it ticked so a very minor yyfy at the expense of useful training.
Wednesday - nothing up at the wall, but did rings core.
Thursday - I think I did a 10:3 fingerboard session in the morning. I had a stonking ride after work in glorious sunshine. Upped the distance to very nearly 70km, threw in a new tough hill. Underfed though as I was definitely struggling from comparatively early on. Weather made up for it though. Bodes well for the new forest ride in August - probably 50% distance and 60% height polished off in an after work ride.
Friday - 10:3 before work
Saturday - big day in London. Fair bit of walking around.
Sunday - went out climbing! Met a varied group of fitclubbers at blacknor south. On sighted a 6b (or+) and a 6c (or + - depends on guide) and did a 6c+ second go. Overcooked it a bit on the 6c+, finger a little tender now, but nothing too bad. Lovely sun, too hit really felt a bit blasted in the mid afternoon heat. Wasn't reading the shell pocket rock that well but that did give me a good opportunity to test my stamina which felt reasonably good.
Hope to make use of the good weather with an outdoor session or so and a ride midweek. Hopefully climbing/biking the weekend too.
Cheers Dan.
I can only remember vague details of what I did this week.
Monday - wall. I think I did some wide and bottom pull-ups. I definitely spent some time bouldering. I think I did a rings shoulder session, definitely either Monday or Tuesday.
Tuesday - wall. Was going to do my aerobic stuff but got sidetracked into a nemesis problem just before reset. Got it ticked so a very minor yyfy at the expense of useful training.
Wednesday - nothing up at the wall, but did rings core.
Thursday - I think I did a 10:3 fingerboard session in the morning. I had a stonking ride after work in glorious sunshine. Upped the distance to very nearly 70km, threw in a new tough hill. Underfed though as I was definitely struggling from comparatively early on. Weather made up for it though. Bodes well for the new forest ride in August - probably 50% distance and 60% height polished off in an after work ride.
Friday - 10:3 before work
Saturday - big day in London. Fair bit of walking around.
Sunday - went out climbing! Met a varied group of fitclubbers at blacknor south. On sighted a 6b (or+) and a 6c (or + - depends on guide) and did a 6c+ second go. Overcooked it a bit on the 6c+, finger a little tender now, but nothing too bad. Lovely sun, too hit really felt a bit blasted in the mid afternoon heat. Wasn't reading the shell pocket rock that well but that did give me a good opportunity to test my stamina which felt reasonably good.
Hope to make use of the good weather with an outdoor session or so and a ride midweek. Hopefully climbing/biking the weekend too.
Post edited at 21:38
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing fit club again fella - gently getting there with the slate. Have changed aims slightly to reflect.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Nearly there.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr fell run (maintain winter climbing endurance)
T: 1hr 15min short boulders and a little core at wall (power)
W: Basically a rest but some finger tip pull ups
T: Rest
F: 2.5hrs climbing on the slate, (Hodge Close.) Led Big Dipper, (E1 5b,) and Mad Alice, (6a+.) The slate technique is slowly coming together
S: 1hr road bike ride (maintain winter climbing endurance)
S: 1hr 30min on Countash, (7b.) Put clips in with stick and had a few plays on the moves. Pulled the rope and had first RP attempt. Got through the crux and RP crux but then blew it missing a foothold at the penultimate bolt. Would have had another go but needed to get home.
A good week, especially given I had a pretty full on week at work, took my youngest out for his birthday Tuesday night and had his party this afternoon.
Amazing progress on Countash - took a big effort to pull the rope and give it a shot and then very nearly did it! need to get back on it soon.
Thanks for doing fit club again fella - gently getting there with the slate. Have changed aims slightly to reflect.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Nearly there.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: 1hr fell run (maintain winter climbing endurance)
T: 1hr 15min short boulders and a little core at wall (power)
W: Basically a rest but some finger tip pull ups
T: Rest
F: 2.5hrs climbing on the slate, (Hodge Close.) Led Big Dipper, (E1 5b,) and Mad Alice, (6a+.) The slate technique is slowly coming together
S: 1hr road bike ride (maintain winter climbing endurance)
S: 1hr 30min on Countash, (7b.) Put clips in with stick and had a few plays on the moves. Pulled the rope and had first RP attempt. Got through the crux and RP crux but then blew it missing a foothold at the penultimate bolt. Would have had another go but needed to get home.
A good week, especially given I had a pretty full on week at work, took my youngest out for his birthday Tuesday night and had his party this afternoon.
Amazing progress on Countash - took a big effort to pull the rope and give it a shot and then very nearly did it! need to get back on it soon.
Post edited at 21:44
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.
Crap week. Training was overall a car crash and supervisor tried to get me dismissed from work. Totally demotivated.
M- Cycle commute. Good swim
T- 50min cycle. Wind. Aching. Rubbish. Went up Ramp and TR on Arms Race twice before wind drove us off
W- 10min run. Couldnt be arsed.
T- Nowt - training course at Stansted
F- 50min cycle
S- Mother Careys. Led Sun Smoke then Deep Space which was Insane!
S- DIY
Moan- Tri is next weekend. Looking for any excuse to bin it off tbh, not looking forward to it. Training times are getting worse, I'm going to miss a good rave and I just cant be bothered.
Plus side- I have 5 job applications in. E2s are tumbling. Only have to train twice this week. I will never do another stupid triathlon after next weekend. Hoping to get started on a 7c this week.
Cheers Dan.
Crap week. Training was overall a car crash and supervisor tried to get me dismissed from work. Totally demotivated.
M- Cycle commute. Good swim
T- 50min cycle. Wind. Aching. Rubbish. Went up Ramp and TR on Arms Race twice before wind drove us off
W- 10min run. Couldnt be arsed.
T- Nowt - training course at Stansted
F- 50min cycle
S- Mother Careys. Led Sun Smoke then Deep Space which was Insane!
S- DIY
Moan- Tri is next weekend. Looking for any excuse to bin it off tbh, not looking forward to it. Training times are getting worse, I'm going to miss a good rave and I just cant be bothered.
Plus side- I have 5 job applications in. E2s are tumbling. Only have to train twice this week. I will never do another stupid triathlon after next weekend. Hoping to get started on a 7c this week.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. D2 exams finished on Weds and since then I managed 3 days out on rock. So good to get out! No big ticks but started serious work on a couple of 7c routes.
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, excellent beasting session on the steep 7a & 7b circuits putting together long links on both. Tending to come unstuck on downhill moves, which are rather less relevent to proper climbing anyway.
W - cycle commute, soft UCR route session in evening as I lnew I had several busy days coming up. 10 routes in pairs but nothing above 6c+.
T - cycle commute then Brean in evening with Nick. Glorious conditions - sunny, bit of a breeze, crag in shade - and we were the only people there! TR on Storm Warning trying to get the first section sorted as I know the top anyway. After numerous tries have got it all wired apart from 1 short sequence of 2 or 3 moves. Have further beta from AJM so keen to retry this bit. If I can sort it then it's on to lead attempts. Got v wet feet on way out as spring tide & the waves were lapping the wall below Chepito!
F - pottered a bit. Short walk. Bought lots of food as we didn't seem to have any any more.
S - Cheddar day 1 with Ally Smith. Working Valley of the Blind on TR. V brutal and with some long reaches. There are 3 small sections which I haven't worked out how to do - 1st is down to hand sequence, 2nd I don't have the span to do the 'normal' method so need to find the foot positions to allow me to use 2 rubbish pinches to get across the span, 3rd I haven't a clue about. Definitely worth further work but no point getting on the sharp end until I've sussed these bits.
S - Cheddar day 2 with Ally Smith. Tried Still Waters again. After some work found a way of doing the 2 v long moves around the overlap. Came off the second on lead but got it when I pulled back on. Fell again higher up due to being tempted to try to shuffle across into a rest - turned out not to be a good idea! I could def get this route clean but would need a bit of luck. Went up the gorge so Ally could try something ridiculously hard & bouldery whilst I knocked off series of 6b/6c routes onsight to try to get a bit less grey in my log book. Also seem to have been doing a lot of TR working so needed this to keep my head straight.
So this morning I am so tired - think I need a couple of rather easy days although I'm keen to get back to Trym if possible. Next weekend in Portland getting back on the 7c project there.
General musing - I've been getting a tad down because there is so much grey in my log book. Need to keep telling myself this doesn't matter one jot - I could keep it all white by not straying out of my comfort zone but I'm not going to get any better if I never try seriously hard stuff.
However, good to do an onsight session once in a while to keep head straight. Oddly I'm not scared of falling when redpointing, as long as I know the sequence and know I've got a sporting chance of doing it. I get really spooked by not being able to get the rope clipped, and hate not knowing where to go or what I'm getting in to.
Goal for year btw is 7c.
Thanks Dan. D2 exams finished on Weds and since then I managed 3 days out on rock. So good to get out! No big ticks but started serious work on a couple of 7c routes.
M - cycle commute
T - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, excellent beasting session on the steep 7a & 7b circuits putting together long links on both. Tending to come unstuck on downhill moves, which are rather less relevent to proper climbing anyway.
W - cycle commute, soft UCR route session in evening as I lnew I had several busy days coming up. 10 routes in pairs but nothing above 6c+.
T - cycle commute then Brean in evening with Nick. Glorious conditions - sunny, bit of a breeze, crag in shade - and we were the only people there! TR on Storm Warning trying to get the first section sorted as I know the top anyway. After numerous tries have got it all wired apart from 1 short sequence of 2 or 3 moves. Have further beta from AJM so keen to retry this bit. If I can sort it then it's on to lead attempts. Got v wet feet on way out as spring tide & the waves were lapping the wall below Chepito!
F - pottered a bit. Short walk. Bought lots of food as we didn't seem to have any any more.
S - Cheddar day 1 with Ally Smith. Working Valley of the Blind on TR. V brutal and with some long reaches. There are 3 small sections which I haven't worked out how to do - 1st is down to hand sequence, 2nd I don't have the span to do the 'normal' method so need to find the foot positions to allow me to use 2 rubbish pinches to get across the span, 3rd I haven't a clue about. Definitely worth further work but no point getting on the sharp end until I've sussed these bits.
S - Cheddar day 2 with Ally Smith. Tried Still Waters again. After some work found a way of doing the 2 v long moves around the overlap. Came off the second on lead but got it when I pulled back on. Fell again higher up due to being tempted to try to shuffle across into a rest - turned out not to be a good idea! I could def get this route clean but would need a bit of luck. Went up the gorge so Ally could try something ridiculously hard & bouldery whilst I knocked off series of 6b/6c routes onsight to try to get a bit less grey in my log book. Also seem to have been doing a lot of TR working so needed this to keep my head straight.
So this morning I am so tired - think I need a couple of rather easy days although I'm keen to get back to Trym if possible. Next weekend in Portland getting back on the 7c project there.
General musing - I've been getting a tad down because there is so much grey in my log book. Need to keep telling myself this doesn't matter one jot - I could keep it all white by not straying out of my comfort zone but I'm not going to get any better if I never try seriously hard stuff.
However, good to do an onsight session once in a while to keep head straight. Oddly I'm not scared of falling when redpointing, as long as I know the sequence and know I've got a sporting chance of doing it. I get really spooked by not being able to get the rope clipped, and hate not knowing where to go or what I'm getting in to.
Goal for year btw is 7c.
In reply to Dandan:
Still feels like slow progress, despite the f8 ticks; my cough is still just about lingering and finger tweak is still there, but can be worked around.
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey – front on board style on crimps is too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG (dependent on finding trip partners).
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap; Find some less steep 7C-ish boulders to work on this.
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Get stronger – actually do something about it and do some proper hang-board sessions you f*kctard!
- Get back on the Orme project.
- Bolt an Orme newbie (or 4…)
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey (if they dry out!)
- 8b’s: Well Done finish, Straight jacket & Chimes of Resistance.
- Boulders: Be Ruthless sit, Broken Direct & Broken Trigger (all known tweakers – need re-thinking).
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Get over the chesty cough – still just about lingering.
- Keep up the aero-cap pootling and re-introduce some S&C
- Work the moves on Chimes of Resistance.
- Aim for 75.5kg (76.2kg – stubborn at the 76kg mark, but considering I saw >78kg mid-week this is not a bad weigh in!)
Last week:
M - Rest. Bit more gardening.
T - Bit more gardening & DIY. Gentle fingerboarding (2); being careful with the tweak (25,27,27,4kg). 4x10 Push-ups, 2x12 overhead press & 2x10 bicep curl. Stretched. Pizza & pint.
W - Nowt bar stretching & gardening.
T - More gentle fingerboarding (1) & pull-ups (15,13,11,9,7). 4x10 Push-ups, 2x10 wide push-ups, 2x12 overhead press & 2x10 bicep curl, front & side crunches. Filling/sanding DIY. Stretched. Pie & 2 pints.
F - Rest. Painting DIY. Beer.
S - Cheddar, Circus, Circus RP (7c) 3rd go. Had to re-work sequence to avoid a LH front 3 edge. Came close on Wrist Business (short bouldery 7c+) despite it feeling feeling terribly powerful on the first go. Cider.
S - Back to Cheddar. 7a OS warm-up, then sacked off Mettle Detector & Wrecking Crew as friable and wank. Spent a while working out Lickin Tarmac (7c+/8a) which went down once a dodgy tape glove was engineered from gaffer tape. Did the RH exit (Jazz Defector, 7c+) 1st RP straight after. Finger slightly tweaky after. Iced after drive home.
Still feels like slow progress, despite the f8 ticks; my cough is still just about lingering and finger tweak is still there, but can be worked around.
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey – front on board style on crimps is too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG (dependent on finding trip partners).
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap; Find some less steep 7C-ish boulders to work on this.
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Get stronger – actually do something about it and do some proper hang-board sessions you f*kctard!
- Get back on the Orme project.
- Bolt an Orme newbie (or 4…)
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey (if they dry out!)
- 8b’s: Well Done finish, Straight jacket & Chimes of Resistance.
- Boulders: Be Ruthless sit, Broken Direct & Broken Trigger (all known tweakers – need re-thinking).
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Get over the chesty cough – still just about lingering.
- Keep up the aero-cap pootling and re-introduce some S&C
- Work the moves on Chimes of Resistance.
- Aim for 75.5kg (76.2kg – stubborn at the 76kg mark, but considering I saw >78kg mid-week this is not a bad weigh in!)
Last week:
M - Rest. Bit more gardening.
T - Bit more gardening & DIY. Gentle fingerboarding (2); being careful with the tweak (25,27,27,4kg). 4x10 Push-ups, 2x12 overhead press & 2x10 bicep curl. Stretched. Pizza & pint.
W - Nowt bar stretching & gardening.
T - More gentle fingerboarding (1) & pull-ups (15,13,11,9,7). 4x10 Push-ups, 2x10 wide push-ups, 2x12 overhead press & 2x10 bicep curl, front & side crunches. Filling/sanding DIY. Stretched. Pie & 2 pints.
F - Rest. Painting DIY. Beer.
S - Cheddar, Circus, Circus RP (7c) 3rd go. Had to re-work sequence to avoid a LH front 3 edge. Came close on Wrist Business (short bouldery 7c+) despite it feeling feeling terribly powerful on the first go. Cider.
S - Back to Cheddar. 7a OS warm-up, then sacked off Mettle Detector & Wrecking Crew as friable and wank. Spent a while working out Lickin Tarmac (7c+/8a) which went down once a dodgy tape glove was engineered from gaffer tape. Did the RH exit (Jazz Defector, 7c+) 1st RP straight after. Finger slightly tweaky after. Iced after drive home.
Post edited at 09:44
In reply to hms:
I found my logbook didn't reflect at all how I felt I was climbing, sometimes as you say, it could be a slightly depressing read. So I've ditched mine (which I'm not recommending as most people love them) and am enjoying climbing so much more. Just following my nose on trad climbs with just a scant look at the guide feels much more adventurous and sport has become climbs I can do and climbs I can't - so reflecting back on my climbing days, it's more 'did I try hard' rather than only ticked a so-and-so.
> General musing - I've been getting a tad down because there is so much grey in my log book. Need to keep telling myself this doesn't matter one jot - I could keep it all white by not straying out of my comfort zone but I'm not going to get any better if I never try seriously hard stuff.
I found my logbook didn't reflect at all how I felt I was climbing, sometimes as you say, it could be a slightly depressing read. So I've ditched mine (which I'm not recommending as most people love them) and am enjoying climbing so much more. Just following my nose on trad climbs with just a scant look at the guide feels much more adventurous and sport has become climbs I can do and climbs I can't - so reflecting back on my climbing days, it's more 'did I try hard' rather than only ticked a so-and-so.
1
In reply to flopsicle:
I get this all the time - I've yet to decide if they're just being encouraging or actually think I can. If you find a way to turn it into results, let me know!
> There are a few people that I absolutely respect that seem to expect me to get up the grades and get up climbs I'm getting spanked on.
I get this all the time - I've yet to decide if they're just being encouraging or actually think I can. If you find a way to turn it into results, let me know!
1
In reply to Dandan:
Great job again Dan.
I just about pulled through to a 50 miles target this week. Lots of work and studying means I am finding it hard to get out, just when everyone else locally seems to be finding an extra gear.
M - nothing.
T - 9.1 miles run to lift home @7:56
W- same again @ 7:52
T - 6 miles around St Agnes Head on the coast path.
F - 9.7 miles run to lift home
S - 5.4 miles slow jog around town
S - 11 miles hilly.
Still, 50 miles is 50 miles when it could have been nothing, so I'm pleased. The 44 mile CQ is coming up this Saturday. I hope I can do 10 miles today, then some quickish 5 milers before then, then..gulp!
Great job again Dan.
I just about pulled through to a 50 miles target this week. Lots of work and studying means I am finding it hard to get out, just when everyone else locally seems to be finding an extra gear.
M - nothing.
T - 9.1 miles run to lift home @7:56
W- same again @ 7:52
T - 6 miles around St Agnes Head on the coast path.
F - 9.7 miles run to lift home
S - 5.4 miles slow jog around town
S - 11 miles hilly.
Still, 50 miles is 50 miles when it could have been nothing, so I'm pleased. The 44 mile CQ is coming up this Saturday. I hope I can do 10 miles today, then some quickish 5 milers before then, then..gulp!
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers to me for doing the stats, nothing happening on the climbing front this week and yet my tennis elbow seems to be getting WORSE somehow.
M:
T: Strength and conditioning (the full 3 sets, hurrah!)
W: Bit of MTB dirt jump fun, been a while!
T:
F: Off to Croyde for a lazy weekend
S:
S: Does frisbee on the beach count as exercise?
Well on the plus side, I did the full 3 sets of S&C and it felt really good, got a proper sweat on and felt really energised afterwards.
The dirt jumping on Wednesday was a lot of fun and no real bother to my elbows as the effort required is comparatively low, although what do I know, maybe it was the worst possible thing I could have done.
The rest of the week was intentional rest to try and sort the tennis elbows (the right one mostly) but as of right now (monday morning) it is as bad as ever!
I did buy an Armaid and started using it Saturday and Sunday so perhaps i'm still feeling the effects of the first pummelling I gave myself, but i'm not sure what course of action to take from here. I can't figure out what makes them better or worse, rest doesn't seem to help, but climbing definitely makes them feel sore at the time, perhaps I need to condition them back to hard climbing, start easy again and slowly increase the load. I can't pinpoint what aggravates them and what is ok, i'm getting all sorts of mixed signals when I work them which don't seem to coincide with specific activities or lack thereof, it's very frustrating. When my elbows explode from climbing at my limit, it's annoying but kind of understandable, this is just painful elbows for no obvious reason, it first appeared when I was resting after Kalymnos! Bah.
Perhaps i'll go for a super gentle climb this week and keep on the Armaid, see if I can get rid of some of the painful trigger points, which seem to be very stubborn.
STG: (next few weeks)
Manage elbows to allow me to get back to 5/6 days training per week - NOPE
Tick indoor 7b clean (bit of an easy one but if anything it will get me back on some routes indoors)
Stop doing 2 sets of my Strength and Conditioning routine and do the full 3 sets you lazy bum - TICK
MTG: (next couple of months)
Get back on campus board without elbow discomfort, get solid 1-4-7 both arms leading
Sign of the Vulcan 7b+ (If i can get back to Cuttings)
Indoor 7c clean
Indoor V8 clean (if they ever set any new ones)
Score 150+ V points from 50 routes in a session indoor (avg V3): Previously done 121pts
LTG: (this year)
8a redpoint
Beat my 2011 record of 133 ticks in one year: 74/133
Get to Brean Down at least once (never been, hint hint)
Get to Cheddar more, maybe find a project.
Go somewhere cool and tick something good in October half term
Cheers to me for doing the stats, nothing happening on the climbing front this week and yet my tennis elbow seems to be getting WORSE somehow.
M:
T: Strength and conditioning (the full 3 sets, hurrah!)
W: Bit of MTB dirt jump fun, been a while!
T:
F: Off to Croyde for a lazy weekend
S:
S: Does frisbee on the beach count as exercise?
Well on the plus side, I did the full 3 sets of S&C and it felt really good, got a proper sweat on and felt really energised afterwards.
The dirt jumping on Wednesday was a lot of fun and no real bother to my elbows as the effort required is comparatively low, although what do I know, maybe it was the worst possible thing I could have done.
The rest of the week was intentional rest to try and sort the tennis elbows (the right one mostly) but as of right now (monday morning) it is as bad as ever!
I did buy an Armaid and started using it Saturday and Sunday so perhaps i'm still feeling the effects of the first pummelling I gave myself, but i'm not sure what course of action to take from here. I can't figure out what makes them better or worse, rest doesn't seem to help, but climbing definitely makes them feel sore at the time, perhaps I need to condition them back to hard climbing, start easy again and slowly increase the load. I can't pinpoint what aggravates them and what is ok, i'm getting all sorts of mixed signals when I work them which don't seem to coincide with specific activities or lack thereof, it's very frustrating. When my elbows explode from climbing at my limit, it's annoying but kind of understandable, this is just painful elbows for no obvious reason, it first appeared when I was resting after Kalymnos! Bah.
Perhaps i'll go for a super gentle climb this week and keep on the Armaid, see if I can get rid of some of the painful trigger points, which seem to be very stubborn.
STG: (next few weeks)
Manage elbows to allow me to get back to 5/6 days training per week - NOPE
Tick indoor 7b clean (bit of an easy one but if anything it will get me back on some routes indoors)
Stop doing 2 sets of my Strength and Conditioning routine and do the full 3 sets you lazy bum - TICK
MTG: (next couple of months)
Get back on campus board without elbow discomfort, get solid 1-4-7 both arms leading
Sign of the Vulcan 7b+ (If i can get back to Cuttings)
Indoor 7c clean
Indoor V8 clean (if they ever set any new ones)
Score 150+ V points from 50 routes in a session indoor (avg V3): Previously done 121pts
LTG: (this year)
8a redpoint
Beat my 2011 record of 133 ticks in one year: 74/133
Get to Brean Down at least once (never been, hint hint)
Get to Cheddar more, maybe find a project.
Go somewhere cool and tick something good in October half term
In reply to Dandan:
Also, depending partially on the elbow situation, I find myself with an entire free day to myself on Sunday, so could probably make it to Portland/Swanage/Cheddar or even Brean at a push if anyone needs a partner? even if i'm not climbing at my limit it would be good to get outside.
Also, depending partially on the elbow situation, I find myself with an entire free day to myself on Sunday, so could probably make it to Portland/Swanage/Cheddar or even Brean at a push if anyone needs a partner? even if i'm not climbing at my limit it would be good to get outside.
In reply to Dandan:
what weight do you use for your S&C btw? Robin never confirmed that my guess of 2.5kg was about right and Ally suggested that certainly for some of the exercises (bicep curl for instance) a lot heavier would be more appropriate.
what weight do you use for your S&C btw? Robin never confirmed that my guess of 2.5kg was about right and Ally suggested that certainly for some of the exercises (bicep curl for instance) a lot heavier would be more appropriate.
In reply to hms:
For the straight arm extensions I use a blue and green theraband together (feels like its easily sub 5kg), shoulder press, bicep curl and tricep extension I use 10kg and bent over row I use about 15kg as thats the most I can fit on with my stupid cement weights, i'd like to use more.
For the straight arm extensions I use a blue and green theraband together (feels like its easily sub 5kg), shoulder press, bicep curl and tricep extension I use 10kg and bent over row I use about 15kg as thats the most I can fit on with my stupid cement weights, i'd like to use more.
In reply to Dandan:
Had a week off after getting married. Will crack on with things for the next few weeks. Hopefully!
Good luck with it everyone.
Had a week off after getting married. Will crack on with things for the next few weeks. Hopefully!
Good luck with it everyone.
In reply to hms:
Does a 2.5kg dumbell for a bicep curl actually do anything...? Would definitely have assumed more than that.
Does a 2.5kg dumbell for a bicep curl actually do anything...? Would definitely have assumed more than that.
In reply to mrchewy:
I don't think knowingly telling something they can do things beyond their ability is helpful. I hope instructors and staff wouldn't do that. But yeah... it certainly is right up there in terms of what's likely!
I don't think knowingly telling something they can do things beyond their ability is helpful. I hope instructors and staff wouldn't do that. But yeah... it certainly is right up there in terms of what's likely!
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan!
M: am - run to work 4/5M in 29:25, pm - run home ~7M in 45:38
Tu: am - run to work 15mins, pm - run home ~8M in 56:11 felt ok
W: am - jog to work 15mins, pm - Watford Open Meeting, great conditions, I was there to pace the wife around a 3000m race. This was with some trepidation as last time we tried it didn't go well! We were in the first race which worked out well as after 800m of even paced running we'd picked off the overly ambitious starters and I was at the front with her following. Managed to hit correct pace and dropped out with 300 to go to leave her too it. She broke her PB by around 8 seconds to run 9:40 so she was happy around 7M in total
Th: felt tired, am - run to work 4/5M in 31:49, pm - jog home 15mins, knackered
F: am - jog to work +strides
Sa: pm - 1500m for club in British Athletics League @ Bedford. Really windy conditions so it ended up being tactical (ie slow!) and then a last lap burn-up which is not my forte! Managed to go with it ok until 200 to go and then got dropped by the second kick. Must of worked hard because lactic levels were high enough in the home straight such that my arms went numb! 5th overall in 4:12.18 and 2nd "B" runner so got some good points and we won the match overall! The wife also won her 800m race and was 3rd in her 1500m and her team won their match as well so a good day out!
Su: 11/12M easy in 1:23:35 - calves and achilles sore!
Total: 57M and an ok race despite the time due to the conditions/ tactics.
Cheers Dan!
M: am - run to work 4/5M in 29:25, pm - run home ~7M in 45:38
Tu: am - run to work 15mins, pm - run home ~8M in 56:11 felt ok
W: am - jog to work 15mins, pm - Watford Open Meeting, great conditions, I was there to pace the wife around a 3000m race. This was with some trepidation as last time we tried it didn't go well! We were in the first race which worked out well as after 800m of even paced running we'd picked off the overly ambitious starters and I was at the front with her following. Managed to hit correct pace and dropped out with 300 to go to leave her too it. She broke her PB by around 8 seconds to run 9:40 so she was happy around 7M in total
Th: felt tired, am - run to work 4/5M in 31:49, pm - jog home 15mins, knackered
F: am - jog to work +strides
Sa: pm - 1500m for club in British Athletics League @ Bedford. Really windy conditions so it ended up being tactical (ie slow!) and then a last lap burn-up which is not my forte! Managed to go with it ok until 200 to go and then got dropped by the second kick. Must of worked hard because lactic levels were high enough in the home straight such that my arms went numb! 5th overall in 4:12.18 and 2nd "B" runner so got some good points and we won the match overall! The wife also won her 800m race and was 3rd in her 1500m and her team won their match as well so a good day out!
Su: 11/12M easy in 1:23:35 - calves and achilles sore!
Total: 57M and an ok race despite the time due to the conditions/ tactics.
In reply to Dandan: Yup, first year of medicine has been passed! Its just pass/fail so there's no grades but I got 89% in my practical/clinical assessment so I'm pretty pleased with that!
Unfortunately I have managed zero climbing this week, but ah well I'm going to France in a week. Not in very good shape at all for a sport trip but its long enough for me to get fit when I'm out there.
Cheers, Jake
Unfortunately I have managed zero climbing this week, but ah well I'm going to France in a week. Not in very good shape at all for a sport trip but its long enough for me to get fit when I'm out there.
Cheers, Jake
1
In reply to Dandan:
Morning Campers,
Thanks for the stats Dan, they're always a good read! Think I slightly overcooked it at the start of the week...
Training Diary WC 1/6/15
Bit of strength stuff as back on Underhand in a fortnight – Between the Lines last Sunday helped show me that I’m not as off the pace as I could be. Will be keeping the An Cap topped up too.
Monday – Run: Tabata 10 x 20s sprint/ 10s jog – got furthest to date! Assisted 1 armers: 2 sets of 6 all -6.25kg. Much harder after giving it the beans on the first one, especially with less assistance. Set 1 = 2x10s, 2x8s, 2x7s sagging locks. Set 2 = 2x10s, 2x7s, 2 x4s. Offset pull ups: 3 sets (1 set = 3 one side, 1 min rest then 3 other side). 2nd set only 2 per side – got back up to 3 per side for set 3 (fair bit of leg waving on last set – need to reduce that. Finished with 3 sets of 8 Power Pull Ups (fast ones) with 3 mins rest per set. Antagonistic stuff too.
Tuesday – TCA: shortish session on the steep stuff. Pretty tired as third day on.
Wednesday – Run: Tabata 10 x 20s sprint/ 10s jog uphill then 3 min rest before another Tabata set back down – got about 50m further on the return leg. Felt this in my legs a bit – likin’ the two sets thang.
Thursday – Huntsham. Loop redpoints. Warm up went well but redpointing didn’t. Got to previous high point (again) first go and then faded. Funny night all round as no one on The Slug was feeling it and it was right proper greasy as they say in Gloucestershire. Put it down to experience. Still a bit tired.
Friday – Rest – actually, really tired.
Saturday – DIY club and a 12.8km steady on/offroad run with Tom in 1h05m – 256m of ascent, many gates and we only got lost once. Great to go out for a chat and a potter on a glorious afternoon.
Sunday – Biblins Cave is open for summer – huzzah, steep, crimpy stuff a go go. Repeated an F7A and then set to work on Peckitt’s Room 7C (a goal for this summer) – it’s starting to start to come together, if you know what I mean. Finished by working out the moves on a hard 7A+. Good times in the dappled sunlight!
Weight = 72.2kg.
Underhand this weekend - steeping it up this week but just a couple of sessions to get back into the groove - let's 'ave it (hopefully)!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Thanks for the stats Dan, they're always a good read! Think I slightly overcooked it at the start of the week...
Training Diary WC 1/6/15
Bit of strength stuff as back on Underhand in a fortnight – Between the Lines last Sunday helped show me that I’m not as off the pace as I could be. Will be keeping the An Cap topped up too.
Monday – Run: Tabata 10 x 20s sprint/ 10s jog – got furthest to date! Assisted 1 armers: 2 sets of 6 all -6.25kg. Much harder after giving it the beans on the first one, especially with less assistance. Set 1 = 2x10s, 2x8s, 2x7s sagging locks. Set 2 = 2x10s, 2x7s, 2 x4s. Offset pull ups: 3 sets (1 set = 3 one side, 1 min rest then 3 other side). 2nd set only 2 per side – got back up to 3 per side for set 3 (fair bit of leg waving on last set – need to reduce that. Finished with 3 sets of 8 Power Pull Ups (fast ones) with 3 mins rest per set. Antagonistic stuff too.
Tuesday – TCA: shortish session on the steep stuff. Pretty tired as third day on.
Wednesday – Run: Tabata 10 x 20s sprint/ 10s jog uphill then 3 min rest before another Tabata set back down – got about 50m further on the return leg. Felt this in my legs a bit – likin’ the two sets thang.
Thursday – Huntsham. Loop redpoints. Warm up went well but redpointing didn’t. Got to previous high point (again) first go and then faded. Funny night all round as no one on The Slug was feeling it and it was right proper greasy as they say in Gloucestershire. Put it down to experience. Still a bit tired.
Friday – Rest – actually, really tired.
Saturday – DIY club and a 12.8km steady on/offroad run with Tom in 1h05m – 256m of ascent, many gates and we only got lost once. Great to go out for a chat and a potter on a glorious afternoon.
Sunday – Biblins Cave is open for summer – huzzah, steep, crimpy stuff a go go. Repeated an F7A and then set to work on Peckitt’s Room 7C (a goal for this summer) – it’s starting to start to come together, if you know what I mean. Finished by working out the moves on a hard 7A+. Good times in the dappled sunlight!
Weight = 72.2kg.
Underhand this weekend - steeping it up this week but just a couple of sessions to get back into the groove - let's 'ave it (hopefully)!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers for Doing FC Dan.
A good type of nervous anticipation has crept over me with the triathlon getting ever nearer. It means I push every workout, but my body is refusing to train according to plan, so I'm having to rest when I don't want to.
I'm trying to do a quick start weight loss to get rid of about a stone in a 4 week period - lost 5 pounds this week. A meal out at a Man V Food, meat fest, smoke pit type place probably didn't help matters (just think of the protein Ian) - bloody lovely though!
M - Started doing an early morning, coached swimming squad. Focus was on stroke technique this week, it was supposed to be leisurely but we still managed 2.2k in under an hour. Cream crackered for rest of day.
T - Running, speed play. Warm up then 400m at 4km pace then 400m steady. 5.4k total.
W - Cycle commute. Rest / recovery walk.
T - 6.5km run. Supposed to be an easy outing but kept pace on hills and ended up suffering.
F - Cycle commute. Rest.
S - Outdoor swimming practice. 1.6km in a stiff breeze. Really had to push hard to make any progress. Thoroughly enjoyed though!
S - Bouldering on V0 / V1's. Just concentrating on good form and footwork. Taped finger and it held up well. Went for a quick 10km bike ride when I got back trying to find a decent / safe training route nearby, where I can just put the miles in - didn't really succeed.
Cheers for Doing FC Dan.
A good type of nervous anticipation has crept over me with the triathlon getting ever nearer. It means I push every workout, but my body is refusing to train according to plan, so I'm having to rest when I don't want to.
I'm trying to do a quick start weight loss to get rid of about a stone in a 4 week period - lost 5 pounds this week. A meal out at a Man V Food, meat fest, smoke pit type place probably didn't help matters (just think of the protein Ian) - bloody lovely though!
M - Started doing an early morning, coached swimming squad. Focus was on stroke technique this week, it was supposed to be leisurely but we still managed 2.2k in under an hour. Cream crackered for rest of day.
T - Running, speed play. Warm up then 400m at 4km pace then 400m steady. 5.4k total.
W - Cycle commute. Rest / recovery walk.
T - 6.5km run. Supposed to be an easy outing but kept pace on hills and ended up suffering.
F - Cycle commute. Rest.
S - Outdoor swimming practice. 1.6km in a stiff breeze. Really had to push hard to make any progress. Thoroughly enjoyed though!
S - Bouldering on V0 / V1's. Just concentrating on good form and footwork. Taped finger and it held up well. Went for a quick 10km bike ride when I got back trying to find a decent / safe training route nearby, where I can just put the miles in - didn't really succeed.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing FC Dan. Annoying that your elbow is getting worse, hopefully the armaid will help.
STG (2 weeks): climb one of the routes in the roof at the wall -> FAIL, was too warm up there, so only climbed ‘outdoors’ (we have a tower next to the wall and some boulders on the outside of the building) this week.
Weight: 68.0kg (must be the different weighing scale, can´t imagine a 2.2kg loss with eating a lot of chocolate and cake)
M: climbing indoors, gentle session up to 5c
T: bouldering indoors, got horribly spanked by a 5C, but when I came back on Sunday it was upgraded to 6B and I climbed it.
W: rest
T: climbing indoors, routes up to 5c, took it nice and easy
F: bouldering on the concrete Fontainebleau inspired features outside of the climbing center up to 5C
S: rest
S: bouldering on the concrete structures again, did a really nice 5B in a corner, but needed many tries on a grade 4 arrete and also did two 6Bs indoors.
Thanks for doing FC Dan. Annoying that your elbow is getting worse, hopefully the armaid will help.
STG (2 weeks): climb one of the routes in the roof at the wall -> FAIL, was too warm up there, so only climbed ‘outdoors’ (we have a tower next to the wall and some boulders on the outside of the building) this week.
Weight: 68.0kg (must be the different weighing scale, can´t imagine a 2.2kg loss with eating a lot of chocolate and cake)
M: climbing indoors, gentle session up to 5c
T: bouldering indoors, got horribly spanked by a 5C, but when I came back on Sunday it was upgraded to 6B and I climbed it.
W: rest
T: climbing indoors, routes up to 5c, took it nice and easy
F: bouldering on the concrete Fontainebleau inspired features outside of the climbing center up to 5C
S: rest
S: bouldering on the concrete structures again, did a really nice 5B in a corner, but needed many tries on a grade 4 arrete and also did two 6Bs indoors.
In reply to Dandan:
Just a brief update. Was really looking forward to a new phase of training but started with some heavy deadlifts which left my lower back in considerable pain for most of the week. It eased off enough for me to get some climbing done at the Llanberis Tradfest at the weekend though - spectacular conditions at Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff, which we bizarrely had to ourselves (aside from some highliners) in neglibible winds and bright sunshine. Maybe it's because the tidal conditions weren't optimal?
Any way, starting up again with some strength sessions this evening.
Cheers,
Andrew.
Just a brief update. Was really looking forward to a new phase of training but started with some heavy deadlifts which left my lower back in considerable pain for most of the week. It eased off enough for me to get some climbing done at the Llanberis Tradfest at the weekend though - spectacular conditions at Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff, which we bizarrely had to ourselves (aside from some highliners) in neglibible winds and bright sunshine. Maybe it's because the tidal conditions weren't optimal?
Any way, starting up again with some strength sessions this evening.
Cheers,
Andrew.
Post edited at 10:37
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.
Just the one climbing session for me and indoors too
Was a good session though with 30 boulders flashed up to v4 then got 7 out of 12 of the very tricky green circuit. I'm not bothered about the roof one so 7 out of 11 I guess. They're hard, but good. Some real thinkers with un obvious solutions.
Did a hill marathon at the weekend as prep for Lakeland 50 next month. Hill did mean hilly but was mostly on Tarmac, cobbles and hard packed trails. I wore the wrong (off road) shoes and it hurt. May well have plantar fasciitis now, which can clear up quick, or can hang around for months. In good news, other than my foot, I felt fine the next day and could have run again Monday for sure.
This week should bring one outside session (done) and two indoors.
Cheers Dan.
Just the one climbing session for me and indoors too
Was a good session though with 30 boulders flashed up to v4 then got 7 out of 12 of the very tricky green circuit. I'm not bothered about the roof one so 7 out of 11 I guess. They're hard, but good. Some real thinkers with un obvious solutions.
Did a hill marathon at the weekend as prep for Lakeland 50 next month. Hill did mean hilly but was mostly on Tarmac, cobbles and hard packed trails. I wore the wrong (off road) shoes and it hurt. May well have plantar fasciitis now, which can clear up quick, or can hang around for months. In good news, other than my foot, I felt fine the next day and could have run again Monday for sure.
This week should bring one outside session (done) and two indoors.
In reply to Dandan: Not a good week. I think I'll let the daily entries speak for themselves...
M - got rained on.
T - went hillwalking, got rained on.
W - went scrambling, got snowed on.
T - went hillwalking, got rained on.
F - waited until the rain stopped, went hillwalking,
S - didn't go hillwalking, got rained on
S - went hillwalking, got rained on...
This week is looking a complete write off as well but, I should be from to climb for most/all of 15th-19th of June if anyone is available.
M - got rained on.
T - went hillwalking, got rained on.
W - went scrambling, got snowed on.
T - went hillwalking, got rained on.
F - waited until the rain stopped, went hillwalking,
S - didn't go hillwalking, got rained on
S - went hillwalking, got rained on...
This week is looking a complete write off as well but, I should be from to climb for most/all of 15th-19th of June if anyone is available.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan, it's still lingering unfortunately!
STG: Flowers are for the Dead (7c)
MTG: Diamond Project (August), 7b+ in Ceuse (September)
LTG: 8a
M: Still ill
T: Llanymynech - rushed late session so tried doing Screaming Skull (7b) while putting the clips in as a warm up. Conditions were awful and fired off a wet crimp low down. Tried my best to dry the route. 2nd go it started throwing it down and going dark, still managed a good effort and fell off the jugs at the top 2 moves from the chains, so pumped as had been overgripping on wet holds all the way.
W: Rest
T: Llanymynech - Ticked The Screaming Skull first go today while putting the clips in as a warm up, super happy but got mega right arm flash pump from not warming up before hand. Did really recover from it put tried onsighting a 7a anyway, came off going for a non-hold. had another go but was just too pumped.
F: ill again
S: Family camping holiday/ ill
S: Family camping holiday/ ill
Cheers Dan, it's still lingering unfortunately!
STG: Flowers are for the Dead (7c)
MTG: Diamond Project (August), 7b+ in Ceuse (September)
LTG: 8a
M: Still ill
T: Llanymynech - rushed late session so tried doing Screaming Skull (7b) while putting the clips in as a warm up. Conditions were awful and fired off a wet crimp low down. Tried my best to dry the route. 2nd go it started throwing it down and going dark, still managed a good effort and fell off the jugs at the top 2 moves from the chains, so pumped as had been overgripping on wet holds all the way.
W: Rest
T: Llanymynech - Ticked The Screaming Skull first go today while putting the clips in as a warm up, super happy but got mega right arm flash pump from not warming up before hand. Did really recover from it put tried onsighting a 7a anyway, came off going for a non-hold. had another go but was just too pumped.
F: ill again
S: Family camping holiday/ ill
S: Family camping holiday/ ill
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10),
HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus
, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free
& maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 2lbs (-3 lbs)
M - Indoor routes @ Rec
T - 100 dish tucks
W - Sport @ Gelli
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Trad @ Tryfan Fach
S - Trad @ Tremadog
Monthly - 75%
Yearly - 68%
Mrchewey / Flopsicle - It's because they know that with the encouragement you're both capable of doing the grade.
HMS - You've just got to get used to the failure I guess (which will lead to success in the long run). But I feel your pain, it can be demoralising with so many failures.
Climbing 4 times in one week? Blimey. Who's this keen climbing guy posting under matt's username? Maintaining the averages. I had been hoping to be at 100% but 75% is good really. Was up in North Wales on a club new leaders weekend, so ended up doing a bit of easy leading which was nice. Did a HS 4a on the Upper Tier at Crag Pant Ifan. It was way better than the HS at Pembroke the other week. I was still quite nervous, but managed my fear a lot better. Just need to get a few sessions of HS/VS routes in and I'll be much better prepared for getting back onto HVS. Then I need to keep up the HVS momentum. Indoor routes were good, got a bit further on the 6b I'm working there. Sport was good at Gelli, it's helping get my leading confidence back. I also top roped a 6b which I was able to dog to the top in one go. All the moves were possible, just need to refine the sequence and that'll go. Got some good beta on one of the 6cs as well. Diet was ok, ate badly at the weekend, but did enough climbing that I didn't put any weight on. Hopefully this week will see a few more lbs off.
Made some plans with a mate to do Supermassive Black Hole in Twll Mawr. He's mainly a boulderer, but can do v6, so we should be able to do it without too much faff between the two of us. That should be a good goal for the rest of the year. I'm also hoping to get on some 6cs and 7as, to see if I can start off a good redpoint siege.
I know this is for last week, but this (next) week, I've lost 2lbs, so that's good progress on the diet front. Woo!
Thanks Dan.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10),
HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus
, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free
& maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 2lbs (-3 lbs)
M - Indoor routes @ Rec
T - 100 dish tucks
W - Sport @ Gelli
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Trad @ Tryfan Fach
S - Trad @ Tremadog
Monthly - 75%
Yearly - 68%
Mrchewey / Flopsicle - It's because they know that with the encouragement you're both capable of doing the grade.
HMS - You've just got to get used to the failure I guess (which will lead to success in the long run). But I feel your pain, it can be demoralising with so many failures.
Climbing 4 times in one week? Blimey. Who's this keen climbing guy posting under matt's username? Maintaining the averages. I had been hoping to be at 100% but 75% is good really. Was up in North Wales on a club new leaders weekend, so ended up doing a bit of easy leading which was nice. Did a HS 4a on the Upper Tier at Crag Pant Ifan. It was way better than the HS at Pembroke the other week. I was still quite nervous, but managed my fear a lot better. Just need to get a few sessions of HS/VS routes in and I'll be much better prepared for getting back onto HVS. Then I need to keep up the HVS momentum. Indoor routes were good, got a bit further on the 6b I'm working there. Sport was good at Gelli, it's helping get my leading confidence back. I also top roped a 6b which I was able to dog to the top in one go. All the moves were possible, just need to refine the sequence and that'll go. Got some good beta on one of the 6cs as well. Diet was ok, ate badly at the weekend, but did enough climbing that I didn't put any weight on. Hopefully this week will see a few more lbs off.
Made some plans with a mate to do Supermassive Black Hole in Twll Mawr. He's mainly a boulderer, but can do v6, so we should be able to do it without too much faff between the two of us. That should be a good goal for the rest of the year. I'm also hoping to get on some 6cs and 7as, to see if I can start off a good redpoint siege.
I know this is for last week, but this (next) week, I've lost 2lbs, so that's good progress on the diet front. Woo!
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. Yes, definitely need to knock out the CWLA assessment soon, but have been a bit slack on bothering to do the shadowing. Have you done the training yet? All these quals are so important for life Plan B...so I need to get them signed off.
M - Rest
T – Routes Brookes. 4x4s ish
W – Coaching then poddle lead Brookes.
T - Rest
F - Rest
S – Working morning then lead Brookes, pyramid to 6c. Working on pushing through when I get pumped.
S – Taking the school group to Portland. Nice day in the sun and sea, led routes up to 6a to set up ropes.
Thanks Dan. Yes, definitely need to knock out the CWLA assessment soon, but have been a bit slack on bothering to do the shadowing. Have you done the training yet? All these quals are so important for life Plan B...so I need to get them signed off.
M - Rest
T – Routes Brookes. 4x4s ish
W – Coaching then poddle lead Brookes.
T - Rest
F - Rest
S – Working morning then lead Brookes, pyramid to 6c. Working on pushing through when I get pumped.
S – Taking the school group to Portland. Nice day in the sun and sea, led routes up to 6a to set up ropes.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers for doing the stats Dandan, just a quick post from a cafe on a rainy day...
M - 7km run
T - rest
W - Wintour's Leap. Followed an E2 then led Strange Little Girl, E4 6a,6a. Got totally shut down by this last year, cruised it this time!
T - Brean with hms. Got up Bullworker with surprisingly smoothly after tweaking the beta. Still using a gaston, but doesn't feel at all desperate now.
F - rest
S - 7km run, attempted fingerboard session. Sacked it off half way through with L middle finger feeling a bit tweaky.
S - Fly to France.
Good news is the finger hasn't actually developed into a problem, just needed a rest. Bad news is the dodgy weather in France. We've been dodging thunderstorms so far but today is the first day we've been completely rained off.
Cheers for doing the stats Dandan, just a quick post from a cafe on a rainy day...
M - 7km run
T - rest
W - Wintour's Leap. Followed an E2 then led Strange Little Girl, E4 6a,6a. Got totally shut down by this last year, cruised it this time!
T - Brean with hms. Got up Bullworker with surprisingly smoothly after tweaking the beta. Still using a gaston, but doesn't feel at all desperate now.
F - rest
S - 7km run, attempted fingerboard session. Sacked it off half way through with L middle finger feeling a bit tweaky.
S - Fly to France.
Good news is the finger hasn't actually developed into a problem, just needed a rest. Bad news is the dodgy weather in France. We've been dodging thunderstorms so far but today is the first day we've been completely rained off.
In reply to Joughton:
Where in France? I'm planning to be in Ceuse later (Tuesday - Thursday) next week.
Where in France? I'm planning to be in Ceuse later (Tuesday - Thursday) next week.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Fri Night Vid Finding Focus - Life Behind The Lens of a Climbing Photographer
This week's Friday Night Video is a portrait of a prolific climbing photographer from Wedge Climbing. Sam Pratt is well known in both the outdoor and competition scene but if you haven't heard of him, you've likely seen...
26 Apr
Loading Notifications...