UKC

Masson Lees - Dry Tooling info

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 BStar 11 Dec 2015

I would like to probe the minds of UKC for a bit of information on dry tooling at Masson Lees...

I've never been dry tooling before, so I know almost nothing about it... That said I'm keen to give it a go, and as my parents live about 15 minutes down the road from the quarry, visiting them over xmas gives me the perfect excuse to try it out. Also I'm off to Cogne in January and thought it could be useful training.

Things I would like to know...
I'm not interested in the overhanging cave routes, I would just like to try a couple of straight up routes (Warm up and Tenuous Link maybe).

How hard are these routes? Having never done a dry tooled route, is an M6 / M7 route going to chew me up and spit me out as a VS trad or 6a sport climber?

Is it possible to set up a top rope on these routes or would it require a lead first?

Does it have to be dry to climb these routes or does the wetness make little difference?

I've got a pair of singing rock bandits with the standard picks rather than the 'mixed' pick, will this be ok and will this trash the picks?

Lastly, if anyone wants to meet up over xmas for a couple of hours of dry tooling let me know!
Post edited at 14:19
 planetmarshall 11 Dec 2015
In reply to BStar:

> ... I would just like to try a couple of straight up routes (Warm up and Tenuous Link maybe).

> How hard are these routes? Having never done a dry tooled route, is an M6 / M7 route going to chew me up and spit me out as an VS trad or 6a sport climber?

Only one way to find out.
1
OP BStar 11 Dec 2015
In reply to planetmarshall:

I would like to be that person that just gives it a go to find out... but with sharp things attached to my feet and hands, I would rather not be taking unecessary whippers!
 philhilo 11 Dec 2015
In reply to BStar:

Hi BStar. Lots of questions which I hope I can answer as a fairly regular dry tooler at Masson and White Goods (and winter climber).

You seemed to have figured that it is sport climbing style, bolts and lower offs. Masson is mostly drilled slots. Both the Warm Up and Tenuous Link have undercut starts so a few stiff pulls (with feet on), but then straight forward off vertical top sections. Thus they aren't great as warm ups.....but that's what you got. I would say Tenuous Link is easier than The Warm Up as the start is slightly less burly and it has evolved from its original very tenuous state. If you can boulder 3 move juggy overhangs indoors you can do these (can't really compare with trad grade).

Always clip the first or second bolt tooling - they aren't meant to be done any other way and the feedback from tools means you often don't know when you are about to come off especially when starting out (and even experienced folk depart unexpectedly sometimes), it gets better as the rock gets steeper. You can't access the tops but you could clip stick your way up and set up a top rope - they share a lower off so even better. To be honest drill slots can be a nightmare to spot from below so clip sticking initially will save you a lot of energy.

Tooling works wet or dry - get stronger and do overhanging routes and even the rain stays off. Those routes at Masson are on the edge of the big cave so you can put your stuff in there and shelter from any rain.

Your axes look like Vipers, which I used happily on the less than overhanging stuff for several years (including these routes). The steeper it gets the more difference aggressive tools make. Your picks will be fine on those routes, tooling is less damaging to hardware than most winter climbing apart from fat ice. As tooling gets harder then specialist heavy duty picks get more important (if you don't want to bend your best ice picks). Crampons, I used horizontal bi-points on those routes to start, fiddly but fine. Monopoints are best, then once into steep stuff fruit boots as they are lighter for getting over your head!

Will it help you at Cogne, a bit maybe, hanging onto tools on steep ground yes, get stronger yes, fitter yes, learning how to shoulder and short handle yes, swinging and kicking at ice no, (although some bits of Masson are soft enough!)but it is great fun so why not.

As for Xmas, not sure of my plans yet but will keep you in mind...I have an itch to scratch at Masson that's making me a Sick Boy.

I hope that has helped - enjoy.
 climber34neil 11 Dec 2015
In reply to BStar:

The two routes at masson that you mention are both worth doing, in general terms though they are both quite strenuous and require a fair amount of "pulling" that said the top sections are a lot easier than the starts. They both have plenty of bolts although a clip stick will make things easier especially if doing the tenuous link as the first bolt is high up. Alternatively if you start on the warm up you can put the first clip in the tenuous link when lowering off. You should be fine with the axes you have on those routes. Both those routes stay dry, was there Tuesday in the pouring rain and stayed totally dry
OP BStar 11 Dec 2015
In reply to philhilo:

Cheers for your detailed reply Phil, I really appreciate it. The hanging on tools and learning the feedback you get from mixed climbing is what I would like to build on, I've been to Masson Lees before and I can vouch that some of it probably is soft enough to swing into

Again, thanks for your reply, certainly helped me out, I'll make sure I pack the clip stick before I go back up to the Midlands this Xmas. If you do fancy a bash at Sick Boy and need someone to hold your ropes, drop me a message and I'll let you know if I'm free.

Adam
OP BStar 11 Dec 2015
In reply to climber34neil:

Cheers for your reply too, I don't think I'll mind the pulling (famous last words!) as I get on well with that style indoors / bouldering.

Looks like I'll have to give it a go then. From your knowledge, is it possible to abseil down to the route from the top and set up a top rope there or is it much easier to man up and lead / clip stick the way up.

Thanks
 climber34neil 11 Dec 2015
In reply to BStar:

Unfortunately you can't get to the top so you will have to stick clip it or lead up it
 climber34neil 11 Dec 2015
In reply to BStar:

Also I'm happy to come to masson with you, I also live only 15 minutes from it!
In reply to BStar:

yhm
 Misha 13 Dec 2015
In reply to BStar:
As Phil and Neil said.

You can probably clip the third bolt from the ground with a long clip stick.

Never, ever climb without pre clipping the first bolt when dry tooling. I've decked out due to not pre clipping on something many grades below my limit...
 JamieSparkes Global Crag Moderator 14 Dec 2015
In reply to Misha:

We could almost clip the chains on the warm up/tenuous link with a clipstick. Can easily get the last bolt in from the ground.
OP BStar 14 Dec 2015
In reply to JamieSparkes:

Cheers, I'll certainly go give it a go then, I'll have to blow the dust off my clip stick first though!
OP BStar 28 Dec 2015
In reply to BStar:

Chewed up and spit out it was

Eventually got up the two but not very gracefully... Very strenuous!
 Misha 28 Dec 2015
In reply to BStar:
Persevere and you will be rewarded...
 climber34neil 28 Dec 2015
In reply to BStar:

I think you did a good job, you certainly making shapes in the photos that I got of you!
 philhilo 29 Dec 2015
In reply to climber34neil:

Nice one on getting out. My Monday trip failed late on and I forgot you were keen on getting out, doh. Out at Masson tomorrow anyway. Hope you both had a good one.
 climber34neil 29 Dec 2015
In reply to philhilo:

Was good, enjoy it tomorrow!
 patsaunders 29 Dec 2015
In reply to BStar:

You looked like you had it sorted. I'm hooked now!
 climber34neil 29 Dec 2015
In reply to patsaunders:

There's a lot of masson love in the house tonight!!!

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...