I'm starting us off this week as AJM is crushing in Spain.
Link to last week£s thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=633238
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Psyche video of the week: bit of inspiration for boulderers bored of the usual haunts:
Posters:
Si dH
Robin Brooke - Looks like you're sticking well to the plan, good effort. Out of interest why headpoint E2/3s if you're climbing F7a/+? Especially crack climbs - you'll be over-fit and there'll usually be decent gear.
Curious Yellow - Nice one having a good session on Saturday. Bit more focus needed to have a useful training session when not feeling ideally motivated like (it sounds like) on the Thursday?
Emily - Have sympathy re: conferences and working away. Generally if I don't come home heavier I'm happy!
AJM - Effort on the board problems, sounds like perfect bouldering training. Hope you're out bouldering now rather than reading this - send me a detailed report on all the problems
Nick Russell - sounds like a good session Sunday. I'm impressed how accurate it seems your January goals were?
James Moyle - looks like loads of good generally fitness and aero work. What are you hoping to apply it to? in N Wales?
Joughton - staying psyched and going climbing when feeling demotivated is so important...good effort for getting a session in. More time now you've passed those exams?
Dandan82 - good progress on the elbows, good luck!
flopsicle - re: your Friday session, if you want to get stronger on steeper walls, I would definitely recommend doing fewer harder problems, rather than a whole circuit of easier ones. On easy steep ones you are usually just pulling on big holds which doesn't often translate that well to outside and doesn't train body tension so well either because you can pull on the hold in more ways.
mattrm - maybe try some variety from the disk tucks? You seem to do an awful lot of them.
TonyB - I know the feeling you mean after eating badly. Fish and chips just make me feel really heavy and leaden. Sounds like you had a couple of decent sessions anyway though. I'm impressed with your dedicated to the endurance training.
The Ex-Engineer - great winter mileage!
Tyler - re: the Moonboard, small gains and minute progress it's what it's all about on hard problems - stay psyched!
Ian Bell - good to meet your goals for the week, but is doing 8 6as really going to help get you up 7a+?
hms- is your back ok now? Didn't look like a bad week to me as long as the sessions were of good quality - you got a lot done.
hokkyokusei - good old boozing and hangover. What are your goals?
stevemarkperry - no climbing last week
Richard Popp - stay motivated Rich, the psyche will return! Hope your bum is better.
Joyce - Your writing is a lesson for others in how to stay psyched! By teh way I was listening to Steve Maisch on trainingbeta this week and he advocates training max hangs at your max hang weight (ie, stes at your 10 second limit). Why are you doing only 80%?
Spenser - good luck with continued recovery. Are your roof projects on the main cave or the skips? Can you fit in an extra session bouldering or climbing per week instead of swimming or biking? This would probably help you a lot I think - one bouldering session per week is not much.
planetmarshall - first time back on after an injury is always hard. Just take it slow but keep motivaed and you'll see progress.
Humperdink - cold gone yet? I'm no runner but 60 miles with a cough seems pretty good.
alexm198 - never mind Scotland, there was snow in Burbage yesterday!
Just Tintin - totally gutted for you. Best of luck with the recovery. A story of some inspiration for you - someone I know completely shattered his leg falling off Janus a few years ago and had it in a cage for 6-12 months. He carried on doing strength training and it wasn't uncommon to see him at the wall top-roping overhanging routes with one leg/foot. Before he broke it, I think he was climbing mid-7s. When he got the cage off, before long he was doing 8a (and now climbs 8b). So don't get tooo down - I know it's hard.
biscuit - good luck with the physio, are you highly confident in the diagnosis(es!)? I've had some similar-ish feedback myself this week, will post later.
cha1n - you've probably got £100 worth of training advice there all in a thread. Hope it works for you...just make sure it's motivating enough that you try hard regularly, that's my tuppence.
It's noticeable how many people have no goals by the way - difficult for others to help you (if you want them to) with no context of goals or ability. And even if you don;t need them as motivation, they can be a good way to review your progress.
Hope everyone has some good stuff to report!
Si
Post edited at 08:44