In reply to TonyB:
> Dandan82 The 8a indoor route sounds like great training. Getting it in 2 hangs on your 2nd go is pretty impressive.
Cheer Tony, it's a nice steady route, it may be a bit soft but its great practice.
M: Fingerboard and bodyweight antagonists; had to move to a smaller hold for the fingerboarding as I was finding the original too easy (I'm doing the CWP 10 sec hold program, had good results in the past) which is great progress.
Only managed 2 10 second handstands although I have started kicking up into them instead of pushing off a wall which makes things a bit harder.
T: Indoor routes; went for a hard problems session, warmed up and got on the 8a, did it in 1 hang! I also figured out a much easier sequence for the top so I can see this going clean soon, very exciting!
I also worked all the moves on a much more bouldery, slopey 7c, and repeated a 7b that I only just scraped up a couple of weeks ago, really good progress!
W: Gym; bench, deadlift, dumbbell press, rowing machine. Quite enjoying deadlift, apparently its a good antagonist/all round exercise and I'm terrible at it so I think that working on improving it will be beneficial to my general fitness and muscle balance.
T: Indoor routes; 4x4s, I was feeling a little bit off the boil, felt like a cold was incoming, but I still managed 4x 6c+, 4x 7a (much more easily than last time, same route), 2x 7a+, 4x 6c.
The 2x 7a+ was tough but not impossible, due to not feeling top notch I decided not to push on and do any more reps, i'll save it for next week.
F: Surprise surprise, I got a cold. Time for some rest, probably about due really.
S: Snotty rest, did a bit of DIY, finished panelling the hall wall to hide the toilet door.
S: Mostly rest but couldn't resist a quick fingerboard. Feeling better.
A good week for progress, stronger fingerboarding, harder 4x4's, progress on the indoor 8a, shame we couldn't top it off with a trip outside at the weekend but I'm sure the rest will be appreciated.
The elbows have been really good, getting more and more resilient but I'm not ready to treat them as 'fixed' quite yet, weirdly 2 days of rest have resulted in the right one being a little delicate this morning, I have to make sure that I do the latest exercises for them even when I'm resting, they seem to do best when I'm pushing them daily.
Last weeks STG:
Climb 3 times (hopefully 1 outside) - 2/3 no trip outside
5x10 second free handstands - 2/5
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed - NOPE
Repeat 4x7a laps - TICK
Get back on the indoor 8a - TICK, progress!
This weeks STG:
Climb 3 times
5x10 second free handstands
Benchmark on lap problem in bouldershed
Do 4x7a+ laps
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - nearly there
Decide if I'm ready for a proper training plan - Physio says not quite yet
Get outside a couple of times - 3/2 - hoping to get out next weekend too!
Lap 7b four times -
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October
Tick B£me Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16*
*Assisted one arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/15*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
Post edited at 08:23