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Morning FitClubbers, welcome back to all you AWOL posters How is everyone getting on with the muggy weather these last few days?
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=645431
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s posters;
D1 - Congratulations on the 2:1! Good to hear fitness is on the up.
Tyler - It’s those innocuous-seeming DIY jobs that always get me too. Hope the shoulder is doing well.
Dandan - Don’t break anything
Emily - Holiday sounds great, it’s such a shame you have such ups and downs with the head game, I reckon a coach is the way to go.
Nick Russell - Nice tick list, it does just seem like bad luck that you’ve not gone over 7a+ on a holiday, your CV certainly shows you can climb harder.
Ian Bell - Sounds like you did the sensible thing with the finger, good luck with the recovery
Biscuit - Is it good to know specifically (scientifically?) where you’re fitness is lacking? Having such specific goals to train towards would be really motivating for me.
Leeboy1985 - Well done on the weight loss, has it continued this week?
Si dH - I love a bit of core training but it’s really hard to quantify improvements because it manifests itself in other body parts - a strong core makes arms and fingers feel stronger and feet feel more secure. Get on it though!
Heelhookofglory - Have you re-balanced with a massive dose of climbing this week? Also, I’m a big advocate of good sleep.
TonyB - 42 degrees?!?!
Curious Yellow - Sorry to hear about Quiddity, no lasting damage?
AJM - Shame about the weather, it must be good if you are psyched to return despite that.
Just Tintin - Bad news, I think you multiply the probabilities so it might be 1 in 256!
Hokkyokusei - Possibly up a mountain...
Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=645431
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=641125
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s posters;
D1 - Congratulations on the 2:1! Good to hear fitness is on the up.
Tyler - It’s those innocuous-seeming DIY jobs that always get me too. Hope the shoulder is doing well.
Dandan - Don’t break anything
Emily - Holiday sounds great, it’s such a shame you have such ups and downs with the head game, I reckon a coach is the way to go.
Nick Russell - Nice tick list, it does just seem like bad luck that you’ve not gone over 7a+ on a holiday, your CV certainly shows you can climb harder.
Ian Bell - Sounds like you did the sensible thing with the finger, good luck with the recovery
Biscuit - Is it good to know specifically (scientifically?) where you’re fitness is lacking? Having such specific goals to train towards would be really motivating for me.
Leeboy1985 - Well done on the weight loss, has it continued this week?
Si dH - I love a bit of core training but it’s really hard to quantify improvements because it manifests itself in other body parts - a strong core makes arms and fingers feel stronger and feet feel more secure. Get on it though!
Heelhookofglory - Have you re-balanced with a massive dose of climbing this week? Also, I’m a big advocate of good sleep.
TonyB - 42 degrees?!?!
Curious Yellow - Sorry to hear about Quiddity, no lasting damage?
AJM - Shame about the weather, it must be good if you are psyched to return despite that.
Just Tintin - Bad news, I think you multiply the probabilities so it might be 1 in 256!
Hokkyokusei - Possibly up a mountain...
In reply to Dandan:
Monday - nothing.
Tuesday - climbing at Redpoint, flashed up to 6b+ (and not on an overhang, which makes this quite good going for me) and dangled around on a black (6c+-7a+) to see whether I could do any of the moves - never tried one from this circuit before.
Wednesday - nothing.
Thursday - climbing at Cheddar. Managed to redpoint Das Goot, Yah? (6b) - had tried it on top-rope ages ago and found it hard. Spent ages poking at the start, but once that first bit went, I made it straight to the top! Pleased with myself for not yelling "take!" at the third bolt in surprise / panic. Also had a comedy try on Raw Deal (7a).
Friday - nothing.
Saturday - bouldering at TCA. Lacklustre session, I think it was the heat and lack of company sapping motivation. Tried some greens (V1-3), didn't get many of them, definitely could have tried harder.
Sunday - nothing except some walking around Bilbao where I arrived today for a workshop and will be spending the rest of the week trying not to get too fat.
Goals:
Short term (Jul)
Medium term (Jul, Aug, Sep)
Maybe someday
> Emily - Holiday sounds great, it’s such a shame you have such ups and downs with the head game, I reckon a coach is the way to go.
Thanks Dandan. I have actually just this week finally acted on my vague intention to see a coach, so watch this space for how that helps! Bit lazy this week, felt tired post holiday (that's how holidays are supposed to work, right?). Monday - nothing.
Tuesday - climbing at Redpoint, flashed up to 6b+ (and not on an overhang, which makes this quite good going for me) and dangled around on a black (6c+-7a+) to see whether I could do any of the moves - never tried one from this circuit before.
Wednesday - nothing.
Thursday - climbing at Cheddar. Managed to redpoint Das Goot, Yah? (6b) - had tried it on top-rope ages ago and found it hard. Spent ages poking at the start, but once that first bit went, I made it straight to the top! Pleased with myself for not yelling "take!" at the third bolt in surprise / panic. Also had a comedy try on Raw Deal (7a).
Friday - nothing.
Saturday - bouldering at TCA. Lacklustre session, I think it was the heat and lack of company sapping motivation. Tried some greens (V1-3), didn't get many of them, definitely could have tried harder.
Sunday - nothing except some walking around Bilbao where I arrived today for a workshop and will be spending the rest of the week trying not to get too fat.
Goals:
Short term (Jul)
- do something to work on fear because this is driving me insane and ruining my fun, as per usual. Fall practice, static climbing drills, anything?
- new plan is to see a coach; in the process of booking a session
- attempt to minimise excess of eating-and-sitting-around combo while away for workshop this week
- find a new local project - maybe a Cheddar 6c?
- had a quick glance up at Rustler while in Cheddar this week, which did look like the sort of thing I might try
Medium term (Jul, Aug, Sep)
- maintain weight in 56-58kg range
- 58.9kg, this is surprisingly 0.1kg down on pre-holiday
- figure out what I want to focus on for cardio fitness now the Bristol 10k is over
- still failing at this, will try and fit a run in this week!
- go outdoor climbing with a good attitude
- did ok at Cheddar this week
Maybe someday
- redpoint something legitimately beginning with 7 indoors?
- redpoint another something beginning with 7 outdoors??
- lead a VS???
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan
Had a bit of an up and down week really. Managed to tick off a mid term goal but had an op on Friday that will put me out of climbing for what should be 2 - 4 weeks but so far have felt really good after it so hopefully be back to it sooner
Last weeks goals
Lose weight - drop from 84kg to 83kg - Fail still 84kg
Next week STG
Maintain weight and do some light walking
MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route
LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter
BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Monday - Run up around Cwm Big - 65 min slow pace 11:18 per mile, 1105 ft accent
Tuesday - Climbing. Spent time warming up on easy boulders and then 4 5+ routes without a break 3 times.
Wednesday - Rest
Thursday - Symonds yat. I led Exchange (VS 4b). really low in the grade acording to the guidebook and you could throw your rack at it and something would go in it was that gear friendly.
Friday - Op
Saturday - Didnt move all day.
Sunday - easy walk around symonds yat
Happy training
Lee
Thanks Dandan
Had a bit of an up and down week really. Managed to tick off a mid term goal but had an op on Friday that will put me out of climbing for what should be 2 - 4 weeks but so far have felt really good after it so hopefully be back to it sooner
Last weeks goals
Lose weight - drop from 84kg to 83kg - Fail still 84kg
Next week STG
Maintain weight and do some light walking
MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route
LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter
BHAG
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)
Monday - Run up around Cwm Big - 65 min slow pace 11:18 per mile, 1105 ft accent
Tuesday - Climbing. Spent time warming up on easy boulders and then 4 5+ routes without a break 3 times.
Wednesday - Rest
Thursday - Symonds yat. I led Exchange (VS 4b). really low in the grade acording to the guidebook and you could throw your rack at it and something would go in it was that gear friendly.
Friday - Op
Saturday - Didnt move all day.
Sunday - easy walk around symonds yat
Happy training
Lee
In reply to Dandan:
Yes it was really that hot in Southern Arizona. I did no training but plan to get to it this week. Back in the UK now.
Yes it was really that hot in Southern Arizona. I did no training but plan to get to it this week. Back in the UK now.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. I can't say I enjoy core training, but I've been getting some done!
2016 goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B - done)
- Moffatrocity (f7B+ - done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- 8a
M: FoC benchmark aeropow training in the evening.
T: Core training in the morning: 4 sets of (30 leg raises + 1 min plank + 15 situps). FoC benchmark aeropow training in the evening.
W: Core training in the morning: 4 sets of (30 leg raises + 1 min plank + 15 situps). FoC benchmark aeropow training in the evening. Ie as per Tuesday.
T: Core training in the morning.
F: rest
S: walked in to Arch Enemies but rock was gopping, all condensed out. Did another round of FoC benchmark aeropow training in the evening.
S: Core training in the morning. Max hang fingerboard session in the evening. 4 sets x 10 sexonds 2-handed on the 18mm edge with +31kg, then some one armed stuff with my new pulley setup. 4 sets x 10s with each arm on each hold type. First did bottom middle rung on the bm2000, 20mm i think, half crimp with - 11.2kg. (managed - 9 kg on right arm.) Then did the good 3 finger pocket (35mm?) with front 3, -2.3kg. (the difficulty of this last hold is very dependent on how much you twist on it, as this gives you loads of friction against the side of the pocket. I can do it with no assistance with some twist but this feels like cheating. I think a less learned is I'd get more benefit using something a bit smaller for front 3 hangs, and taking off more weight.
Injury catalogue: not much change anywhere this week. Right middle two flexor unit has felt slightly tweaky again yesterday and today. I decided to test it tonight on the max hangs as I think the pain today was a bit psychological . Seems ok.
Weight last Sunday night was 11st 4lb again! Another bad one-off but ive had a bad week, around 11st2 most evenings. Was a bit lighter again (~11st) last night, hoping to be 11st1-ish tonight.
So overall this week, no climbing outside due to more terrible conditions, but training has been good. FoC benchmarks yesterday showed an improvement vs the beginning of the week, too early to say whether thats me getting better or not.
Si
Cheers Dan. I can't say I enjoy core training, but I've been getting some done!
2016 goals:
- Maintain a weight of around 11 stone measured Sunday night
- Good range of 'up' f7B/+s
- Wright's Traverse (f7B - done)
- Moffatrocity (f7B+ - done)
- The Eastwood Traverse (f7B+)
- The Mentalist (f7C)
- Paint it Black (f7C)
- Tetris (f7C)
- Arch Enemies (7c+)
- 8a
M: FoC benchmark aeropow training in the evening.
T: Core training in the morning: 4 sets of (30 leg raises + 1 min plank + 15 situps). FoC benchmark aeropow training in the evening.
W: Core training in the morning: 4 sets of (30 leg raises + 1 min plank + 15 situps). FoC benchmark aeropow training in the evening. Ie as per Tuesday.
T: Core training in the morning.
F: rest
S: walked in to Arch Enemies but rock was gopping, all condensed out. Did another round of FoC benchmark aeropow training in the evening.
S: Core training in the morning. Max hang fingerboard session in the evening. 4 sets x 10 sexonds 2-handed on the 18mm edge with +31kg, then some one armed stuff with my new pulley setup. 4 sets x 10s with each arm on each hold type. First did bottom middle rung on the bm2000, 20mm i think, half crimp with - 11.2kg. (managed - 9 kg on right arm.) Then did the good 3 finger pocket (35mm?) with front 3, -2.3kg. (the difficulty of this last hold is very dependent on how much you twist on it, as this gives you loads of friction against the side of the pocket. I can do it with no assistance with some twist but this feels like cheating. I think a less learned is I'd get more benefit using something a bit smaller for front 3 hangs, and taking off more weight.
Injury catalogue: not much change anywhere this week. Right middle two flexor unit has felt slightly tweaky again yesterday and today. I decided to test it tonight on the max hangs as I think the pain today was a bit psychological . Seems ok.
Weight last Sunday night was 11st 4lb again! Another bad one-off but ive had a bad week, around 11st2 most evenings. Was a bit lighter again (~11st) last night, hoping to be 11st1-ish tonight.
So overall this week, no climbing outside due to more terrible conditions, but training has been good. FoC benchmarks yesterday showed an improvement vs the beginning of the week, too early to say whether thats me getting better or not.
Si
Post edited at 21:38
In reply to Dandan:
Yeah, brilliant place. I'm thinking of it like Scotland and the Alps - higher risk with the weather but commitment will be rewarded.
STG - by 14th August
- continue bouldering - have some ideas for evening projects to work on
- at least one more weekend in this period on The Cider Soak (8a) - do all the moves and improve links. <done all the moves and decent links. Need to get back on it really>
- local things to look at - Hall of Mirrors (7c), Nightmare Scenario (7c), maybe Fighting Torque (8a) and Fuel My Fire (8a+), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc) <Tick on Saskatchewan!>
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight - not a peak period so aim is to keep things steady and aim to be hitting peak weight by the end of the period
- lots of trad leading to solid performances at Burren (July) and Wendenstock (August) <Burren weather not with me but did ok>
- solid indoor base training
- Dragon Tour & Cobbled Classic end of May and start of June <TICK>
MTG - 2016
- get on Infinite Gravity (8a+). Also try Fuel My Fire (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- get trad mojo back, get more E4s done, try to break into E5
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals. <kerching - house sorted and rides done>
BHAG
- its been in the back of my mind for a while, and its a monstrous step from where I am now, but Tom Et Je Ris (8b+). Its probably even further away than 8a was when I started thinking about 8a, but you gotta try, right?
- single pitch E6, big adventure E5s and all the adventures that would bring (alps etc)
Monday and Tuesday - Burren as per last week
Wednesday - very tired (home 3am from airport) but did about 45 minutes of wood splitting in the garden
Thursday - bit of training. Did a FOC set - improvements from last time, starting to fill out the aerobic performance a bit. Also some bottom pulls.
Friday - resting for the weekend
Saturday - Wallsend. Back on Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c). First go it was greasy so i basically clipped up it to put the clips in and worked the top groove system which was in decent nick. Second go, went bolt to bolt through the lower crux, refined beta using a new better clipping hold I'd been told about, and then put in a good link through the upper section of the crux, via the rest, into a good chunk of the headwall groove system. Improved beta for the top of the grooves too. Third go had to do some de-greasing again whilst putting the rope back in (first 2 pre-clipped). Lowered back to the ledge unsure as to whether it was worth it with the crux holds still a bit smeggy, but gave it a go anyway. Managed to burl through the crux and get through the rest of the power endurance lower wall, a bit hectic getting up to the rest ledge as I was a bit pumped by then. Set off up the grooves, was pretty goosed to be fair, kind of whole-body weary rather than pumped, but kept on going and got through to the chains. One of the best 7cs on portland, 2 short sessions, 6 tie-ins all told. Pretty stoked with that.
Sunday - Blacknor. Onsighted a 6c+. Brutally hot so bailed to paddle in the sea a bit and eat ice cream. Still, a cracking weekend.
MTG for the year ticked and pleased to be feeling back on form - its not an easy 7c I don't think.
Declaring Lulworth season open this week hopefully, keen for that. Good weather looks set to last most of the week. Hopefully in the peak at the weekend - maybe get to Chee Tor or something to get some trad miles in.
> AJM - Shame about the weather, it must be good if you are psyched to return despite that.
Yeah, brilliant place. I'm thinking of it like Scotland and the Alps - higher risk with the weather but commitment will be rewarded.
STG - by 14th August
- continue bouldering - have some ideas for evening projects to work on
- at least one more weekend in this period on The Cider Soak (8a) - do all the moves and improve links. <done all the moves and decent links. Need to get back on it really>
- local things to look at - Hall of Mirrors (7c), Nightmare Scenario (7c), maybe Fighting Torque (8a) and Fuel My Fire (8a+), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc) <Tick on Saskatchewan!>
- get the regular weight logging back on track and manage the weight - not a peak period so aim is to keep things steady and aim to be hitting peak weight by the end of the period
- lots of trad leading to solid performances at Burren (July) and Wendenstock (August) <Burren weather not with me but did ok>
- solid indoor base training
- Dragon Tour & Cobbled Classic end of May and start of June <TICK>
MTG - 2016
- get on Infinite Gravity (8a+). Also try Fuel My Fire (8a+), The Cider Soak (8a), and some harder west coast 7s (Tennessee (7c), Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c) etc)
- maybe some onsighting if I can get a trip together
- get trad mojo back, get more E4s done, try to break into E5
- another adventure trip, back to wendenstock perhaps
- build on dws - swanage and Devon classics, push the boat out at lulworth.
- buy a house, do the Dragon Tour, other non climbing goals. <kerching - house sorted and rides done>
BHAG
- its been in the back of my mind for a while, and its a monstrous step from where I am now, but Tom Et Je Ris (8b+). Its probably even further away than 8a was when I started thinking about 8a, but you gotta try, right?
- single pitch E6, big adventure E5s and all the adventures that would bring (alps etc)
Monday and Tuesday - Burren as per last week
Wednesday - very tired (home 3am from airport) but did about 45 minutes of wood splitting in the garden
Thursday - bit of training. Did a FOC set - improvements from last time, starting to fill out the aerobic performance a bit. Also some bottom pulls.
Friday - resting for the weekend
Saturday - Wallsend. Back on Saskatchewan Uranium Miner (7c). First go it was greasy so i basically clipped up it to put the clips in and worked the top groove system which was in decent nick. Second go, went bolt to bolt through the lower crux, refined beta using a new better clipping hold I'd been told about, and then put in a good link through the upper section of the crux, via the rest, into a good chunk of the headwall groove system. Improved beta for the top of the grooves too. Third go had to do some de-greasing again whilst putting the rope back in (first 2 pre-clipped). Lowered back to the ledge unsure as to whether it was worth it with the crux holds still a bit smeggy, but gave it a go anyway. Managed to burl through the crux and get through the rest of the power endurance lower wall, a bit hectic getting up to the rest ledge as I was a bit pumped by then. Set off up the grooves, was pretty goosed to be fair, kind of whole-body weary rather than pumped, but kept on going and got through to the chains. One of the best 7cs on portland, 2 short sessions, 6 tie-ins all told. Pretty stoked with that.
Sunday - Blacknor. Onsighted a 6c+. Brutally hot so bailed to paddle in the sea a bit and eat ice cream. Still, a cracking weekend.
MTG for the year ticked and pleased to be feeling back on form - its not an easy 7c I don't think.
Declaring Lulworth season open this week hopefully, keen for that. Good weather looks set to last most of the week. Hopefully in the peak at the weekend - maybe get to Chee Tor or something to get some trad miles in.
3
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Yes I don't function very well on little sleep and I have a tendency to over train so having that week of rest really opened my eyes to how much better I feel when I'm not tired. A good mixed week this week with biking, 2 climbing sessions and a full day of skiing which took myself and the misses to level 3. Still plenty to learn but had an ace time and happy getting on the slope with mates now.
Mon: Rest
Tue: Bouldering – whole green circuit then played on a few of the comp routes but feeling a bit flat. 1hr MTB including 6 x 30 second race efforts.
Wed: 1hr easy MTB spin.
Thu: Rest
Fri: 6hr learn to ski in a day lesson at Chill Factore. Really impressed with this and had an ace day. Competent at controlling speed and linking plough turns on the main slope now. I'd like to do more of this as it was so much fun. Aiming to complete level 4-6 which will teach me parallel turns.
Sat: 1hr bike, some hills but mostly spinning yesterday out of my legs.
Sun: Bouldering, started off a bit slow but warmed into it. It was so hot! Managed a go-ey V3/4 and almost flashed a V4 in the cave but didn't realise until it was too late that I was once move short of the last hold! Happy with that though!
Aims For This Week:
A balance of activities, focus on variety and fun A better week but feeling tired today (Sunday)
Climbing: 2x 2/2
Bike: 1x 3/1 – oops!
Get an indoor V5/6 ticked.
Get on Too Drunk Too wet!
Get on a rope again
Lead a trad route if it's dry enough Too wet!
Attend skiing day lesson levels 1-3 TICK!
STGs:
Climb consistently (2-3 times per week)
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (white/red) 1/?
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
Lead 1x Diff before July 18th It's been too wet! Will have to re-schedule this.
Complete 1st row on indoor routes pyramid 1/8
MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete the Mids XC Series
Race in the National at Cannock
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
Get competent at skiing (complete levels 4-6 at Chill Factore and do at least 6 social sessions)
LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
Lead a Severe
Do a Scottish skiing trip?
Winter III
Kili or Elbrus (and ski back down if Elbrus?)
BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
Winter V
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Be happy leading any reasonable multi-pitch route in the mountains
Some classic Alpine routes
Cheers Dan. Yes I don't function very well on little sleep and I have a tendency to over train so having that week of rest really opened my eyes to how much better I feel when I'm not tired. A good mixed week this week with biking, 2 climbing sessions and a full day of skiing which took myself and the misses to level 3. Still plenty to learn but had an ace time and happy getting on the slope with mates now.
Mon: Rest
Tue: Bouldering – whole green circuit then played on a few of the comp routes but feeling a bit flat. 1hr MTB including 6 x 30 second race efforts.
Wed: 1hr easy MTB spin.
Thu: Rest
Fri: 6hr learn to ski in a day lesson at Chill Factore. Really impressed with this and had an ace day. Competent at controlling speed and linking plough turns on the main slope now. I'd like to do more of this as it was so much fun. Aiming to complete level 4-6 which will teach me parallel turns.
Sat: 1hr bike, some hills but mostly spinning yesterday out of my legs.
Sun: Bouldering, started off a bit slow but warmed into it. It was so hot! Managed a go-ey V3/4 and almost flashed a V4 in the cave but didn't realise until it was too late that I was once move short of the last hold! Happy with that though!
Aims For This Week:
A balance of activities, focus on variety and fun A better week but feeling tired today (Sunday)
Climbing: 2x 2/2
Bike: 1x 3/1 – oops!
Get an indoor V5/6 ticked.
Get on Too Drunk Too wet!
Get on a rope again
Lead a trad route if it's dry enough Too wet!
Attend skiing day lesson levels 1-3 TICK!
STGs:
Climb consistently (2-3 times per week)
Tick indoor V3/4 circuit (white/red) 1/?
Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
Complete 3rd row on indoor bouldering pyramid (V5/6) 0/2
Lead 1x Diff before July 18th It's been too wet! Will have to re-schedule this.
Complete 1st row on indoor routes pyramid 1/8
MTGs (before end 2016):
Complete the Mids XC Series
Race in the National at Cannock
Complete 1st row on outdoor bouldering pyramid (Font 6C/+) 2/8
Sleeping with the Flowers 6C+ (Roaches)
High Speed Imp Act 7A (Churnet)
Spellbound 7A+ (Churnet)
Ousal Low 7B (Churnet)
Low Speed Imp Act 7B (Churnet)
Get competent at skiing (complete levels 4-6 at Chill Factore and do at least 6 social sessions)
LTGs (before end 2017):
Boulder 7B
Lead a Severe
Do a Scottish skiing trip?
Winter III
Kili or Elbrus (and ski back down if Elbrus?)
BHAGs:
Boulder 8A
Winter V
Cenotaph Corner
Cemetery Gates
Be happy leading any reasonable multi-pitch route in the mountains
Some classic Alpine routes
In reply to Dandan:
Muggy weather? Great conditions at Cheddar on Thursday and perfect at Gogarth this weekend!
Thanks for the stats Dan! This week goes to confirm your assertion that I can in fact climb harder...
M - 6km run
T - am: 6km run. pm: Redpoint. New grey 7a on the comp wall. A bit stiff! Took about 5 goes... Had a go at a 7b after.
W - Rest
T - Cheddar. Spy in the Sky (7b) onsight and Insatiable (7b+) second go! Very pleased with that for an evening session
F - Cheddar. Had a couple of goes working the moves on Right-Hand Man (8a). Doesn't play to my strengths, and it was raining. Probably worth going back in better weather! Anyone got any beta?
S - Gogarth! Climbed The Strand (E2 5b) and Gogarth (E1 5b), a great first day there.
S - Gogarth, The Moon (E3 5c)
Well, looking back, that was a decent week! Best sport onsight, 2 "Extreme rock" and one "Hard rock" route. The Moon really is one of the best routes I've ever climbed.
Conditions at Gogarth were great, but very strange weather. By mid afternoon, the air coming across from the South West started condensing into mist as it hit land, so everything South of Main cliff was covered in clag. Main cliff itself was clear and sunny, but you could see the cloud spilling over the top! Sunday was the same, but we just about topped out of the Moon before it came down.
STG
A few Cheddar N routes I've had my eyes on: Sing a Mean Toon, Kid (7b+), Circus, Circus (7c), Everyday Lives of Ordinary People (7c)
Anybody up for a weekend in North Cornwall this summer? Pentire Point, Carn Gowla, Lower Sharpnose Point?
MTG
Sub-90 in Bristol half in September. The running is ticking over ok.
Start working through my ticklist of E4s. Star Wars (E4 5c), Resurrection (E4 6a), Mother Africa (E4 6a), Right Wall (E5 6a), ...
I'm going to tentatively suggest redpointing Right-Hand Man... I'll see how it goes when it's not wet.
LTG
Snowdonia marathon 2017. I'll have to be very quick on the 1st January if I want to get a place
BHAG
The Long Hope Route
Black Bean
> Morning FitClubbers, welcome back to all you AWOL posters How is everyone getting on with the muggy weather these last few days?
Muggy weather? Great conditions at Cheddar on Thursday and perfect at Gogarth this weekend!
> Nick Russell - Nice tick list, it does just seem like bad luck that you’ve not gone over 7a+ on a holiday, your CV certainly shows you can climb harder.
Thanks for the stats Dan! This week goes to confirm your assertion that I can in fact climb harder...
M - 6km run
T - am: 6km run. pm: Redpoint. New grey 7a on the comp wall. A bit stiff! Took about 5 goes... Had a go at a 7b after.
W - Rest
T - Cheddar. Spy in the Sky (7b) onsight and Insatiable (7b+) second go! Very pleased with that for an evening session
F - Cheddar. Had a couple of goes working the moves on Right-Hand Man (8a). Doesn't play to my strengths, and it was raining. Probably worth going back in better weather! Anyone got any beta?
S - Gogarth! Climbed The Strand (E2 5b) and Gogarth (E1 5b), a great first day there.
S - Gogarth, The Moon (E3 5c)
Well, looking back, that was a decent week! Best sport onsight, 2 "Extreme rock" and one "Hard rock" route. The Moon really is one of the best routes I've ever climbed.
Conditions at Gogarth were great, but very strange weather. By mid afternoon, the air coming across from the South West started condensing into mist as it hit land, so everything South of Main cliff was covered in clag. Main cliff itself was clear and sunny, but you could see the cloud spilling over the top! Sunday was the same, but we just about topped out of the Moon before it came down.
STG
MTG
LTG
BHAG
2
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me, decent week again, elbows seem to be getting conditioned to a bit of hard work. Slightly tweaky finger which I think is from the new micro-crimp on Fighting Torque so I need to keep an eye on that.
M: Honestly can't remember, rest possibly?
T: Indoor Boulder; ticked the V8! also did 5-7 move hard boulders 4 times with rest the same as work time. All the boulders on the roof are 10 moves or more so I just did the first 7 moves, so not complete grades but did 4x V8, 4x V7, 4x V6, 4xV5, really pleased with that.
W: Bodyweight Antags; repeated the 45 degree manna progression which was great, also managed a 17 second handstand!
T: Indoor Boulder; went to Boulder Central for a change, it's too far really, with the horrendous evening traffic it took over an hour and a half to get there, just not worth it! Might as well head somewhere outside if I want to drive for that long! Did a load of stuff up to V6, then 8x 30 move circuit with rest time the same as work time. It's good that they have a circuit board but it has 5+, 6a, 6c, 8a circuits, not the best spread! I did the 6c circuit and reduced the rest times to make it harder.
F: Rest
S: More garage destruction, now I've cleared the site, I have marked out the position of the new garage, it's going to be massive!
S: Decided against going to Portland as we had a lot of stuff to do, turns out it wasn't a bad choice as it was literally too hot to climb in some places! Went to Calshot instead, which was almost as bad of an idea, it was sweaty. Greased my way up half a 4x4 but gave up due to excess sweat.
So yeah, my right index finger is a bit sore at the top joint, it feels more bruised than anything and it was a gradual thing so not a tear or anything too horrible. It feels ok to pull down on, its only when I get on a tiny crimp that bends the first joint backwards that it is a problem. I'm going to chill this week and hope it clears up quick. Two and a half weeks to Kaly, but at least being unable to use tiny crimps should really cause an issue out there! Hopefully I can still perform at my Lattice assessment next Tuesday, can I do the one hand hangs on just one arm?
Last weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions - TICK
10x10 second free handstands - 4/10 but did do a 17 seconder!
Repeat 45 degree manna progression x2 - TICK
Tick V8 indoor problem - TICK
Go outside, Mrs Dandan wants to go anywhere but Cuttings! - NOPE
Don't spanner myself before Lattice assessment end of July - Well, slightly tweaky finger.
Next weeks STG:
Bit of finger TLC -
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 9/2
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Think of new MTG's for next week - To do
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October - Going well...
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16* *56kg, 185% bodyweight 8/7/16*
*One arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
Thanks me, decent week again, elbows seem to be getting conditioned to a bit of hard work. Slightly tweaky finger which I think is from the new micro-crimp on Fighting Torque so I need to keep an eye on that.
M: Honestly can't remember, rest possibly?
T: Indoor Boulder; ticked the V8! also did 5-7 move hard boulders 4 times with rest the same as work time. All the boulders on the roof are 10 moves or more so I just did the first 7 moves, so not complete grades but did 4x V8, 4x V7, 4x V6, 4xV5, really pleased with that.
W: Bodyweight Antags; repeated the 45 degree manna progression which was great, also managed a 17 second handstand!
T: Indoor Boulder; went to Boulder Central for a change, it's too far really, with the horrendous evening traffic it took over an hour and a half to get there, just not worth it! Might as well head somewhere outside if I want to drive for that long! Did a load of stuff up to V6, then 8x 30 move circuit with rest time the same as work time. It's good that they have a circuit board but it has 5+, 6a, 6c, 8a circuits, not the best spread! I did the 6c circuit and reduced the rest times to make it harder.
F: Rest
S: More garage destruction, now I've cleared the site, I have marked out the position of the new garage, it's going to be massive!
S: Decided against going to Portland as we had a lot of stuff to do, turns out it wasn't a bad choice as it was literally too hot to climb in some places! Went to Calshot instead, which was almost as bad of an idea, it was sweaty. Greased my way up half a 4x4 but gave up due to excess sweat.
So yeah, my right index finger is a bit sore at the top joint, it feels more bruised than anything and it was a gradual thing so not a tear or anything too horrible. It feels ok to pull down on, its only when I get on a tiny crimp that bends the first joint backwards that it is a problem. I'm going to chill this week and hope it clears up quick. Two and a half weeks to Kaly, but at least being unable to use tiny crimps should really cause an issue out there! Hopefully I can still perform at my Lattice assessment next Tuesday, can I do the one hand hangs on just one arm?
Last weeks STG:
3 climbing sessions - TICK
10x10 second free handstands - 4/10 but did do a 17 seconder!
Repeat 45 degree manna progression x2 - TICK
Tick V8 indoor problem - TICK
Go outside, Mrs Dandan wants to go anywhere but Cuttings! - NOPE
Don't spanner myself before Lattice assessment end of July - Well, slightly tweaky finger.
Next weeks STG:
Bit of finger TLC -
MTG: (next couple of months)
Record benchmarks and start trying to improve them - improvements below
Get outside a couple of times - 9/2
Get on Daniboy 8a in August
Think of new MTG's for next week - To do
LTG: (This year)
Stay uninjured for Kaly in August and Margalef in October - Going well...
Tick Besame Mucho (7b+) (endurance test) in October - This is going to be a walk in the park (i hope)
Repeatable 10+ seconds handstands from a kick-up, not off a wall
Good form front lever for 5 seconds
BHAG:
Photo Shot (8b) Looks exactly my style and way, way out of my league, but seems to me to be that it could one day be do-able...
Benchmarks:
*2rm weighted chin up - *+45kg, 165% bodyweight 17/4/16* *56kg, 185% bodyweight 8/7/16*
*One arm hang - *10s +2.5kg on outer large slot 1/5/16*
*1-5-9 progression - *1-4-6 both arms 14/4/16* *1-4-7 both arms 17/5/16*
*Some kind of foot on campus exercise, can anyone suggest one? I've never really done it
*Max grade indoor route 4 reps with rest to lower off and re-tie *4x7a 5/5/16* *4x7a+ 19/5/16*
*Max reps on moonboard 6A problem with fixed (5 sec?) rest between
In reply to Dandan:
STG = another 7a+ by end of July.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Hi all
M - 2xTRX rings (usual 3)
T - 2 x strength and conditioning work out (usual 3)
T - Bouldering at Westway in the Fridge. All of the V1-V2 & V2-V3 circuits bar about 1 which I thought would aggravate the finger. One of the V3-V4 after a fair few goes (fun dyno). Close on a couple of others. Almost flashed the 6c+ stamina circuit, fell off last move.
F - WW routes, 12 routes in total. Onsighted a couple of 6cs.
Sun - BBQ & bouldering at Bowles rock. Managed to do Tobacco Road (f6B+) and the rather boringly named No match for climb id:404544. The first I've tried over the years a few times but never got it, the 2nd I'd done before but repeated quite fast this time. Would say the grades should be the other way around though. Did a few more 6A ish problems and 1 route (5b).
Good week, took it easy with the finger during the week but feels more or less OK. Was alright at the weekend. Happy to finally get Tobacco road done, think I first tried that not far off 4 years ago! Better try the 7A extension version now... Very nice day in the sun & BBQ as well. Hopefully outside next weekend and hopefully get at least another day trying to tick off Strawberry Tubin (7b).
STG = another 7a+ by end of July.
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 2x7a, 2x7a+.
BHAG = 8a by 40
Hi all
M - 2xTRX rings (usual 3)
T - 2 x strength and conditioning work out (usual 3)
T - Bouldering at Westway in the Fridge. All of the V1-V2 & V2-V3 circuits bar about 1 which I thought would aggravate the finger. One of the V3-V4 after a fair few goes (fun dyno). Close on a couple of others. Almost flashed the 6c+ stamina circuit, fell off last move.
F - WW routes, 12 routes in total. Onsighted a couple of 6cs.
Sun - BBQ & bouldering at Bowles rock. Managed to do Tobacco Road (f6B+) and the rather boringly named No match for climb id:404544. The first I've tried over the years a few times but never got it, the 2nd I'd done before but repeated quite fast this time. Would say the grades should be the other way around though. Did a few more 6A ish problems and 1 route (5b).
Good week, took it easy with the finger during the week but feels more or less OK. Was alright at the weekend. Happy to finally get Tobacco road done, think I first tried that not far off 4 years ago! Better try the 7A extension version now... Very nice day in the sun & BBQ as well. Hopefully outside next weekend and hopefully get at least another day trying to tick off Strawberry Tubin (7b).
In reply to Nick Russell:
Awesome week, congrats on, well, all of it!
The only issue I had with Right Hand Man is that it's so sharp, I could only have a couple of goes in a session before my fingers were raw. Maybe if you climb Cheddar/The Remnant a lot you might be used to that.
I put a fair bit of time into it a few years ago but never ticked it, I'm afraid I can't remember any of the beta!
Awesome week, congrats on, well, all of it!
The only issue I had with Right Hand Man is that it's so sharp, I could only have a couple of goes in a session before my fingers were raw. Maybe if you climb Cheddar/The Remnant a lot you might be used to that.
I put a fair bit of time into it a few years ago but never ticked it, I'm afraid I can't remember any of the beta!
In reply to Dandan:
AWOL for 3 weeks as the wifi in rural South Africa was appallingly bad. Had a great trip. I'm not going to do a day by day breakdown of it all, just the highlights.
FC week 484 was a taper week before the trip, so usual cycling plus 2 short punchy sessions at UCR, 1 routes and 1 circuits.
Then in the 2 weeks away I got the following (translated from SA grades into normal sport grades)
6c & 6c+: 5
7a: 8 including 3 OS & 1 flash. The other 4 were all second try I think.
7a+: 2, 1 flash and 1 third try.
7b: 2, both 2nd try.
7b+: 1, the classic Lotters Desire, 3rd proper try (1 bolt to bolt to work the moves)
so in 9 climbing days I got 13 7a and above ticks, which I was pretty pleased with. The grades are not a giveaway at all, there weren't many soft touches although admittedly the 7b+ totally played to my strengths. One of the 7bs definitely did not - very thuggy and with an essential kneebar, so pleased to get that. This was always planned as a redpoint lite trip so I didn't try anything harder, and didn't get too hung up on particular routes. There were a couple more 7a+ near misses which would have gone with another go or two, but also a 7a which I'd never get and a 7b ditto - plus it had a hold which scoured lumps out of one finger, so I wasn't too keen to spend too long retrying.
Overall a great trip, and a great place to climb. The rock is pretty kind on the fingers, and many of the routes are more techy than thuggy. The local facilities are, how shall I put this, limited, but the people we met were almost all really really nice. Included 2 of the most positive Americans I've ever come across - he was chanting G-O-O-D-J-O-B whilst she was climbing. We tried this ourselves but had to concentrate really hard on the spelling!
so back to a sticky UK. This week I'm planning on doing very little other than some rehab on a grouchy right shoulder, after that don't have any firm plans other than getting back on Remembrance.
AWOL for 3 weeks as the wifi in rural South Africa was appallingly bad. Had a great trip. I'm not going to do a day by day breakdown of it all, just the highlights.
FC week 484 was a taper week before the trip, so usual cycling plus 2 short punchy sessions at UCR, 1 routes and 1 circuits.
Then in the 2 weeks away I got the following (translated from SA grades into normal sport grades)
6c & 6c+: 5
7a: 8 including 3 OS & 1 flash. The other 4 were all second try I think.
7a+: 2, 1 flash and 1 third try.
7b: 2, both 2nd try.
7b+: 1, the classic Lotters Desire, 3rd proper try (1 bolt to bolt to work the moves)
so in 9 climbing days I got 13 7a and above ticks, which I was pretty pleased with. The grades are not a giveaway at all, there weren't many soft touches although admittedly the 7b+ totally played to my strengths. One of the 7bs definitely did not - very thuggy and with an essential kneebar, so pleased to get that. This was always planned as a redpoint lite trip so I didn't try anything harder, and didn't get too hung up on particular routes. There were a couple more 7a+ near misses which would have gone with another go or two, but also a 7a which I'd never get and a 7b ditto - plus it had a hold which scoured lumps out of one finger, so I wasn't too keen to spend too long retrying.
Overall a great trip, and a great place to climb. The rock is pretty kind on the fingers, and many of the routes are more techy than thuggy. The local facilities are, how shall I put this, limited, but the people we met were almost all really really nice. Included 2 of the most positive Americans I've ever come across - he was chanting G-O-O-D-J-O-B whilst she was climbing. We tried this ourselves but had to concentrate really hard on the spelling!
so back to a sticky UK. This week I'm planning on doing very little other than some rehab on a grouchy right shoulder, after that don't have any firm plans other than getting back on Remembrance.
4
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. A few of the holds do seem pretty sharp, but the sequence through that section is pretty short so hopefully once I've got it sorted I won't be spending too much time on them!
Thanks Dan. A few of the holds do seem pretty sharp, but the sequence through that section is pretty short so hopefully once I've got it sorted I won't be spending too much time on them!
In reply to Dandan:
Missed last week's update due to not having the laptop - nothing significant to report. Good week this week but mostly climbing rather than training - which is no bad thing.
In answer to last week's question - a 'Hang Squat' is a squat in a snatch position, with the barbell held in a wide grip high overhead. Unlike other squats the limitation is in what your shoulders can manage rather than your legs. Good for shoulder stabilization.
Mon - Last day on Eigg. Didn't climb anything, though looked like the buttresses on An Sgurr would have been dry - difficult approaches, though. Instead did a trail run round the western half of the island. (15.38km/738m) (https://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/osmaps/route/739689/Eigg-western-circuit)
Tue - Went to Cratcliffe Tor, but didn't climb anything. Wrong time of year for this crag - very green and brackeny. Looking forward to visiting in the autumn.
Wed - Opportunity to climb in Pembroke, so took it despite the long drive.
Thu - First time climbing in Pembroke - fantastic, but such a pain to get to from the North. Climbed Shiraz (E1 5b) and Beyond the Azimuth (E1 5b) - certainly my hardest lead to date.
Fri - Visiting friends in Aberdeen, used various lift share options to avoid another epic drive.
Sat - Climbed at Pass of Ballater - great crag. Leads of Brut (VS 5a), Lucky Strike (VS 4c) and Black Custard (E1 5b)
Sun - Climbed at Meikle Partans. Bad landing downclimbing from Strawclutcher's Wall (E1 5b), lead saved for another time but have a bit of a swollen ankle. Soloed Constellation (S).
STG
Not sure how the ankle will hold up to climbing yet, but should be able to manage some upper body strength work.
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
Missed last week's update due to not having the laptop - nothing significant to report. Good week this week but mostly climbing rather than training - which is no bad thing.
In answer to last week's question - a 'Hang Squat' is a squat in a snatch position, with the barbell held in a wide grip high overhead. Unlike other squats the limitation is in what your shoulders can manage rather than your legs. Good for shoulder stabilization.
Mon - Last day on Eigg. Didn't climb anything, though looked like the buttresses on An Sgurr would have been dry - difficult approaches, though. Instead did a trail run round the western half of the island. (15.38km/738m) (https://www.ordnancesurvey.co.uk/osmaps/route/739689/Eigg-western-circuit)
Tue - Went to Cratcliffe Tor, but didn't climb anything. Wrong time of year for this crag - very green and brackeny. Looking forward to visiting in the autumn.
Wed - Opportunity to climb in Pembroke, so took it despite the long drive.
Thu - First time climbing in Pembroke - fantastic, but such a pain to get to from the North. Climbed Shiraz (E1 5b) and Beyond the Azimuth (E1 5b) - certainly my hardest lead to date.
Fri - Visiting friends in Aberdeen, used various lift share options to avoid another epic drive.
Sat - Climbed at Pass of Ballater - great crag. Leads of Brut (VS 5a), Lucky Strike (VS 4c) and Black Custard (E1 5b)
Sun - Climbed at Meikle Partans. Bad landing downclimbing from Strawclutcher's Wall (E1 5b), lead saved for another time but have a bit of a swollen ankle. Soloed Constellation (S).
STG
Not sure how the ankle will hold up to climbing yet, but should be able to manage some upper body strength work.
MTG
Left shoulder rehab.
Routes:
The HVSs on Hen Cloud and Millstone Edge
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
LTG
Recovery of left shoulder injury.
Periodized training plan with two peaks, one for Kalymnos in October. Not really settled on particular routes yet, but possibly
Wild Sex (6b)
DNA (7a)
No Sleep 'til Hammersmith (7a+)
Second peak for Winter 2016/17. Planning on taking 8-10 weeks off for Scottish Winter, Alps and Canada. Routes to be decided but would like some of the Alpine classics, and some hard mixed routes on Beinn Eighe
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Central Buttress (Winter) (VI 7)
Shang-High (Winter) (VII 7)
Central Grooves (Winter) (VII 7)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The North Face (TD+ 6a)
Learn to ski.
BHAG
The 1938 Route (ED2)
London Wall (E5 6a)
American Direct (ED1 6c+)
Dalriada (E7 6b)
Something on El Capitan.
In reply to hms:
Sounds like a great trip Helen, nice one.
Are interested in any more time on Cider Soak this summer/autumn? Keen to get back on it at some point soon...
Sounds like a great trip Helen, nice one.
Are interested in any more time on Cider Soak this summer/autumn? Keen to get back on it at some point soon...
In reply to Dandan:
Easy one for me
M to F: Nothing
S: Physio, told me there was nothing drastic (no slap tear or anything). He just kept sighing and repeating you what an immobile wreck I was and asking "How do you manage to sleep?". Didn't do the excercise he gave me (if The Fox is reading this I expect that raises a wry smile)
S: Went to Pot Hile doing easy trad one armed, nice to get some sun and revisit my climbing alma mater. Didn't do my exercises.
This week, do my physio excercises.
I have Friday off and was thinking of going to Skye to do the ridge but am probably too scared to go it alone, anyone interested?
Easy one for me
M to F: Nothing
S: Physio, told me there was nothing drastic (no slap tear or anything). He just kept sighing and repeating you what an immobile wreck I was and asking "How do you manage to sleep?". Didn't do the excercise he gave me (if The Fox is reading this I expect that raises a wry smile)
S: Went to Pot Hile doing easy trad one armed, nice to get some sun and revisit my climbing alma mater. Didn't do my exercises.
This week, do my physio excercises.
I have Friday off and was thinking of going to Skye to do the ridge but am probably too scared to go it alone, anyone interested?
Post edited at 12:45
In reply to Dandan:
you seem to have a massive leaps since you were crippled with elbow problems, you must be psyched
you seem to have a massive leaps since you were crippled with elbow problems, you must be psyched
1
In reply to Tyler:
You're not wrong there! Although I'm only about level with or maybe slightly above my previous best fitness so I feel like I'm about where I should be, aside from this niggly finger.
> you seem to have a massive leaps since you were crippled with elbow problems, you must be psyched
You're not wrong there! Although I'm only about level with or maybe slightly above my previous best fitness so I feel like I'm about where I should be, aside from this niggly finger.
In reply to Dandan:
Good week for me this week. Really helped by Durham climbing centre having a competition series on which gives me something to be psyched about.
Mon - metro centre shopping trip, so actually ended up doing quite a bit of walking up and down. Should've believed my boyfriend when he said the place was hell
Tues - DCC first go on round 1 of bouldering league. Scored 164 (11 for flash, 10 for other attempt)
Wed - played tennis for a bit
Thurs - dog walk
Fri - dog walk plus DCC for second attempt at round 1, got 2 more problems bring score up to 184
Sat - nothing
Sun - DCC for round 2. This was my only chance to try this round as a!m heading back to Bristol next week. 17 flashes (out of 25) to score 187 (I think that's what I got). Shame I can't have another go to improve my score, but the ones I left were v tough
Back to bristol this week. Not sure how much time I'll have to climb with being in a car all of Wed and graduating on Fri, but hms is back so I can annoy her... (Hi mum!)
Good week for me this week. Really helped by Durham climbing centre having a competition series on which gives me something to be psyched about.
Mon - metro centre shopping trip, so actually ended up doing quite a bit of walking up and down. Should've believed my boyfriend when he said the place was hell
Tues - DCC first go on round 1 of bouldering league. Scored 164 (11 for flash, 10 for other attempt)
Wed - played tennis for a bit
Thurs - dog walk
Fri - dog walk plus DCC for second attempt at round 1, got 2 more problems bring score up to 184
Sat - nothing
Sun - DCC for round 2. This was my only chance to try this round as a!m heading back to Bristol next week. 17 flashes (out of 25) to score 187 (I think that's what I got). Shame I can't have another go to improve my score, but the ones I left were v tough
Back to bristol this week. Not sure how much time I'll have to climb with being in a car all of Wed and graduating on Fri, but hms is back so I can annoy her... (Hi mum!)
In reply to AJM:
Yes - I've been invited down to Dorset (Lyme) for other reasons, so an Anstey's trip would be good in the next couple of weeks.
> Are interested in any more time on Cider Soak this summer/autumn? Keen to get back on it at some point soon...
Yes - I've been invited down to Dorset (Lyme) for other reasons, so an Anstey's trip would be good in the next couple of weeks.
In reply to Dandan:
Quick line in the sand post from me, post South Africa trip: Boven was good, the Kruger better; i shall try and write some bloggage this week.
More importantly, the shoulder was almost 100% functional, even with gastons and thumb down jams/locks which were a previous "sore-point".
Scorecard:
7a: 3x OS, 6x beta
7a+: 2x OS, 1x beta
7b: 3x beta, 1x RP
7b+: 2x OS, 1x RP/GU
7c: 1x OS, 2x RP
7c+: 1x OS, 1x RP
8a: 1x last move whipper!
8a+: 1x RP
Objectives for the next training cycle:
1)Stronger fingers - work out an adaptation of the 2x max pull-up routine that worked so well last year, but in a way that doesn't tweak my elbows
2)Re-visit an-cap training, starting with laps of Bend to half-way along End Low (sans rest)
3)Maintain weekly yoga
4)Beast the core to take advantage of TotGs rests.
Meanwhile, continue with RP'ing projects (listed in a rough chronology to take advantage of current stamina and likely revision to boulder style as the year progresses):
- Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
- Bolt, clean and try the rest of Kilnsey roof project
- Gorge projects, both f8a+/b
- Well Done Finish, f8b
- Waddage, f8b
- Cider Soak, f8a
- Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b
Quick line in the sand post from me, post South Africa trip: Boven was good, the Kruger better; i shall try and write some bloggage this week.
More importantly, the shoulder was almost 100% functional, even with gastons and thumb down jams/locks which were a previous "sore-point".
Scorecard:
7a: 3x OS, 6x beta
7a+: 2x OS, 1x beta
7b: 3x beta, 1x RP
7b+: 2x OS, 1x RP/GU
7c: 1x OS, 2x RP
7c+: 1x OS, 1x RP
8a: 1x last move whipper!
8a+: 1x RP
Objectives for the next training cycle:
1)Stronger fingers - work out an adaptation of the 2x max pull-up routine that worked so well last year, but in a way that doesn't tweak my elbows
2)Re-visit an-cap training, starting with laps of Bend to half-way along End Low (sans rest)
3)Maintain weekly yoga
4)Beast the core to take advantage of TotGs rests.
Meanwhile, continue with RP'ing projects (listed in a rough chronology to take advantage of current stamina and likely revision to boulder style as the year progresses):
- Traverse of the Gods, f8b+
- Bolt, clean and try the rest of Kilnsey roof project
- Gorge projects, both f8a+/b
- Well Done Finish, f8b
- Waddage, f8b
- Cider Soak, f8a
- Broken Heart/Almost Familiar link-up, f8b
Post edited at 16:23
In reply to Ally Smith:
Hmm... tied up this weekend (peak seeing friends. Interested?) , and next (parents visiting, so less spare time around that - slight chance of a short dws raid perhaps but not an Ansteys trip). After that it's Wenden - my first free weekend is 20/21.
Hmm... tied up this weekend (peak seeing friends. Interested?) , and next (parents visiting, so less spare time around that - slight chance of a short dws raid perhaps but not an Ansteys trip). After that it's Wenden - my first free weekend is 20/21.
In reply to Ally Smith:
I guess it depends on the location of your holds but 1.5x shoulder-width pull-ups are supposed to be much friendlier to elbows, they encourage good form in the scapula area too.
> 1)Stronger fingers - work out an adaptation of the 2x max pull-up routine that worked so well last year, but in a way that doesn't tweak my elbows
I guess it depends on the location of your holds but 1.5x shoulder-width pull-ups are supposed to be much friendlier to elbows, they encourage good form in the scapula area too.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan, yeah no lasting damage thankfully
This week:
Mon - 8 mins on, 8 mins off x6, triple laps on short steep 6c x4
Tues - Fingerboard.
Wedns - Campus, short boulder, ticked a V5-7 circuit problem which doesn't happen often. Rings.
Thurs - Double fingerboard.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Wallsend. Back on Realm of Chaos but it was super greasy. Felt quite disheartened but looking back it wasnt a terrible session given the conditions.
Sun - Blacknor. Hotter than the sun, feeling pretty grouchy. Sacked off climbing in favour of swimming/lazing around.
Off to Font next week for a family hol + climbing, anyone got any middle of summer low 6's suggestions for a punter with no triceps and a bad head for heights? Or any suggestions for areas kids (8 and 11 years) might particularly enjoy? They've done some outdoor climbing.
Cheers Dan, yeah no lasting damage thankfully
This week:
Mon - 8 mins on, 8 mins off x6, triple laps on short steep 6c x4
Tues - Fingerboard.
Wedns - Campus, short boulder, ticked a V5-7 circuit problem which doesn't happen often. Rings.
Thurs - Double fingerboard.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Wallsend. Back on Realm of Chaos but it was super greasy. Felt quite disheartened but looking back it wasnt a terrible session given the conditions.
Sun - Blacknor. Hotter than the sun, feeling pretty grouchy. Sacked off climbing in favour of swimming/lazing around.
Off to Font next week for a family hol + climbing, anyone got any middle of summer low 6's suggestions for a punter with no triceps and a bad head for heights? Or any suggestions for areas kids (8 and 11 years) might particularly enjoy? They've done some outdoor climbing.
In reply to Dandan:
I certainly was. To catch up:
m - 10k cycling
t - Madly packing
w - Fly to Lima
t - Bus to Huarraz
f - 8.5 k hike
s - 14k hike
s - 17k hike
m - 11k hike
t - 5k hike
w - 7k hike
t - 10k hike
f - 6.5k hike
s - 4.5k hike
s - 11.5k, to summit of Ishinka. Informed of referendum result by four Slovenians at the summit. Almost killed by rolling boulder on descent.
m - 5k hike
t - ~4k hike up to Tocllaraju morraine camp
w - ~15km, attempt to climb Tocllaraju. Didn't make it to the summit because I'm weak in mind and body
t - ~8k hike with a bit of scrambling
f - ~10k hike
s - rest
s - rest
m - 5k hike from roadhead to Refugio Peru
t - ~12k climbing Pisco from the Refugio
w - 5k hike from Refugio Peru to the roadhead
t - rest
f - rest
s - 9.6k hike
s - ~10k including attempt to climb Vallunaraju. Very close to the summit, but we couldn't get across the bergschrund.
m - 4km run up the hill from Huaraz - I thought I was going to die!
t - Rest
w - Interminable 8hr coach ride from Huaraz to Lima
t - Morning in Lima then to the airport
f - Flying back from Peru - horrible 12.5 hrs of which I spent an hour and a half in the bog with the shits
s - Friends' kid's birthday party
s - 10k walk to the pub
Didn't accomplish what I set out to do, but had a great time. I'd hoped to climb five mountains, in the end I only attempted two of those five, and succeeded. Tried some other peaks that I didn't manage to summit, but it's all a learning experince. The Cordillera Blanca are amazingly beautiful and I'd love to go back.
Lost about 4kg in weight, though I think I'd started putting weight back on toward the end of the trip (too much beer in Huaraz!)
I need to get fitter and do this stuff more often. I lost out to a head game I played with myself on Tocllaraju. The guide I was with seemed to have more faith in my abilities than I did, and, because I thought he was wrong I then lost faith in his judgement. By the time I'd sorted all that out, I was physically and mentally exhausted, and we turned around. It feels disappointing to recall it now, but it seemed like a good decision at the time.
My goals now are to try and keep some of the weight I've lost off, and to get some things in the diary to look forward to and not let mountaineering revert to a "once in every two years" affair!
> Hokkyokusei - Possibly up a mountain...
I certainly was. To catch up:
m - 10k cycling
t - Madly packing
w - Fly to Lima
t - Bus to Huarraz
f - 8.5 k hike
s - 14k hike
s - 17k hike
m - 11k hike
t - 5k hike
w - 7k hike
t - 10k hike
f - 6.5k hike
s - 4.5k hike
s - 11.5k, to summit of Ishinka. Informed of referendum result by four Slovenians at the summit. Almost killed by rolling boulder on descent.
m - 5k hike
t - ~4k hike up to Tocllaraju morraine camp
w - ~15km, attempt to climb Tocllaraju. Didn't make it to the summit because I'm weak in mind and body
t - ~8k hike with a bit of scrambling
f - ~10k hike
s - rest
s - rest
m - 5k hike from roadhead to Refugio Peru
t - ~12k climbing Pisco from the Refugio
w - 5k hike from Refugio Peru to the roadhead
t - rest
f - rest
s - 9.6k hike
s - ~10k including attempt to climb Vallunaraju. Very close to the summit, but we couldn't get across the bergschrund.
m - 4km run up the hill from Huaraz - I thought I was going to die!
t - Rest
w - Interminable 8hr coach ride from Huaraz to Lima
t - Morning in Lima then to the airport
f - Flying back from Peru - horrible 12.5 hrs of which I spent an hour and a half in the bog with the shits
s - Friends' kid's birthday party
s - 10k walk to the pub
Didn't accomplish what I set out to do, but had a great time. I'd hoped to climb five mountains, in the end I only attempted two of those five, and succeeded. Tried some other peaks that I didn't manage to summit, but it's all a learning experince. The Cordillera Blanca are amazingly beautiful and I'd love to go back.
Lost about 4kg in weight, though I think I'd started putting weight back on toward the end of the trip (too much beer in Huaraz!)
I need to get fitter and do this stuff more often. I lost out to a head game I played with myself on Tocllaraju. The guide I was with seemed to have more faith in my abilities than I did, and, because I thought he was wrong I then lost faith in his judgement. By the time I'd sorted all that out, I was physically and mentally exhausted, and we turned around. It feels disappointing to recall it now, but it seemed like a good decision at the time.
My goals now are to try and keep some of the weight I've lost off, and to get some things in the diary to look forward to and not let mountaineering revert to a "once in every two years" affair!
2
In reply to Dandan:
Hello everyone! This is my first post on Fit Club so I feel some sort of background/context/introduction is in order.
I've been involved in climbing for c. 15 years now, starting off at Oxford Brookes wall doing bouldering back at the start of the millenium, I bouldered indoors on and off for about six years. Whilst living in Wellington in 2007 I started climbing outside and kept on with it when we came to Bristol in 2008. My climbing career peaked in 2011/2012 when I broke into HVS and was managing to climb outside most weekends and a night or two a week in summer and boulder/climb inside about once a week.
I then had kids and since then have tried to stem the tide of declining climbing/ability which goes with having much less time and freedom to devote to it. Some days it feels like doing my job and keeping the kids fed/clean/where they need to be is all I can manage. The window of opportunity after all chores are done and the kids are in bed also has to be shared with my other half who will typically go running a couple of times a week. Hey Fit Club has just worked for me - writing that down made me realise that I can still do some exercise at home even though my OH might be out running!
Fitness context
Running: I love running, preferably cross country for about 45 minutes to an hour. Sadly I've had a lot of injury trouble over the last few years where typically a run is followed by two days limping. I thought I'd got this licked this year when I was managing to run home from work a couple of times a week without any adverse side effects but the limping reappeared a couple of weeks ago which leads me to...
Swimming: I started swimming as an alternative to running when running was breaking me. It worked well apart from the fact that it can be very dull if you aren't in the mood. Swimming feels like much more of a chore to me than running which is usually unalloyed pleasure! Still if you can manage to go a couple of times a week you can certainly see and feel the benefits.
Daily grind: I'm generally fairly active, walking to and fro from work (about 2.5 miles each way), generally carrying a small child on my shoulders for half of the distance. This has saved me from putting on loads of weight as I can't help but tuck into the biscuits/cakes that come round the office.
Monday: Nothing
Tuesday: Walk to and fro from work
Wednesday: Walk to and fro from work
Thursday: Walk to and fro from work
Friday: Walk to and fro from work
Saturday: Woohoo - climbing trip! Condensed a club weekend trip into a day and drove to the Gower, arriving 8.30 a.m. having driven through an hour and a half of rain. Miraculously hope defied logic and the crag on my tick list (No match for crag id:1324) was somehow dry and the passing showers didn't make any lasting impact. Wobbled up a couple of Severes and a VDiff. Strange to have to psyche yourself up to lead a Severe! Home for 8.30 p.m. Good effort!
Sunday: Nothing, unless repeated pressure on the accelerator on a drive to Oxford and back counts.
Goals:
Short Term (next four weeks)
Sort out some sort of training regime/goals/structure. Hopefully the ability to use Fitclub as a yardstick to record progress and to clarify objectives and tactics will help with this!
Medium Term (next year)
Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running. I'm grateful for any suggestions about how to go about this.
Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do -
Unknown Wall at Avon
The Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe
Suspension Flake at Hound Tor
Osiris at Fall Bay
Tons in Pembs
Tons at Chair Ladder
LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi
Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.
Lose some weight - currently 71.6 kilos but need to be vigilant about middle aged spread.
Long Term
I'd love to run a marathon!
The Cuillin Ridge
DoWH
Cenotaph Corner
Oh yeah and what is a BHAG?
Hello everyone! This is my first post on Fit Club so I feel some sort of background/context/introduction is in order.
I've been involved in climbing for c. 15 years now, starting off at Oxford Brookes wall doing bouldering back at the start of the millenium, I bouldered indoors on and off for about six years. Whilst living in Wellington in 2007 I started climbing outside and kept on with it when we came to Bristol in 2008. My climbing career peaked in 2011/2012 when I broke into HVS and was managing to climb outside most weekends and a night or two a week in summer and boulder/climb inside about once a week.
I then had kids and since then have tried to stem the tide of declining climbing/ability which goes with having much less time and freedom to devote to it. Some days it feels like doing my job and keeping the kids fed/clean/where they need to be is all I can manage. The window of opportunity after all chores are done and the kids are in bed also has to be shared with my other half who will typically go running a couple of times a week. Hey Fit Club has just worked for me - writing that down made me realise that I can still do some exercise at home even though my OH might be out running!
Fitness context
Running: I love running, preferably cross country for about 45 minutes to an hour. Sadly I've had a lot of injury trouble over the last few years where typically a run is followed by two days limping. I thought I'd got this licked this year when I was managing to run home from work a couple of times a week without any adverse side effects but the limping reappeared a couple of weeks ago which leads me to...
Swimming: I started swimming as an alternative to running when running was breaking me. It worked well apart from the fact that it can be very dull if you aren't in the mood. Swimming feels like much more of a chore to me than running which is usually unalloyed pleasure! Still if you can manage to go a couple of times a week you can certainly see and feel the benefits.
Daily grind: I'm generally fairly active, walking to and fro from work (about 2.5 miles each way), generally carrying a small child on my shoulders for half of the distance. This has saved me from putting on loads of weight as I can't help but tuck into the biscuits/cakes that come round the office.
Monday: Nothing
Tuesday: Walk to and fro from work
Wednesday: Walk to and fro from work
Thursday: Walk to and fro from work
Friday: Walk to and fro from work
Saturday: Woohoo - climbing trip! Condensed a club weekend trip into a day and drove to the Gower, arriving 8.30 a.m. having driven through an hour and a half of rain. Miraculously hope defied logic and the crag on my tick list (No match for crag id:1324) was somehow dry and the passing showers didn't make any lasting impact. Wobbled up a couple of Severes and a VDiff. Strange to have to psyche yourself up to lead a Severe! Home for 8.30 p.m. Good effort!
Sunday: Nothing, unless repeated pressure on the accelerator on a drive to Oxford and back counts.
Goals:
Short Term (next four weeks)
Sort out some sort of training regime/goals/structure. Hopefully the ability to use Fitclub as a yardstick to record progress and to clarify objectives and tactics will help with this!
Medium Term (next year)
Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running. I'm grateful for any suggestions about how to go about this.
Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do -
Unknown Wall at Avon
The Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe
Suspension Flake at Hound Tor
Osiris at Fall Bay
Tons in Pembs
Tons at Chair Ladder
LBJ and Anvil Corus at Bosi
Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.
Lose some weight - currently 71.6 kilos but need to be vigilant about middle aged spread.
Long Term
I'd love to run a marathon!
The Cuillin Ridge
DoWH
Cenotaph Corner
Oh yeah and what is a BHAG?
3
In reply to Bobling:
Welcome Bobling!
Being a very enthusiastic non-runner, I can't offer much advice for your injury issues, but don't runners do a gait analysis thing, could that help see where things are going wrong? Or is that just a gimmick to sell you expensive shoes?
BHAG is Big Hairy Audacious Goal, something that is almost beyond the realms of possibility but hey, you never know, right?
Welcome Bobling!
Being a very enthusiastic non-runner, I can't offer much advice for your injury issues, but don't runners do a gait analysis thing, could that help see where things are going wrong? Or is that just a gimmick to sell you expensive shoes?
BHAG is Big Hairy Audacious Goal, something that is almost beyond the realms of possibility but hey, you never know, right?
In reply to Bobling:
Hello there Bobling, haven't seen you in a while... Welcome to FitClub! Happy to try and help with running injuries (I've had most of them at some point) and any swimming pointers (I was a competitive swimmer for many years).
Hello there Bobling, haven't seen you in a while... Welcome to FitClub! Happy to try and help with running injuries (I've had most of them at some point) and any swimming pointers (I was a competitive swimmer for many years).
In reply to Dandan:
I'm going to be based on the South coast next week Wed-Sat. I'd be keen to head to Portland/Swanage for a day or two. Would anyone be keen to climb?
Tony
I'm going to be based on the South coast next week Wed-Sat. I'd be keen to head to Portland/Swanage for a day or two. Would anyone be keen to climb?
Tony
In reply to TonyB:
Can maybe do an evening (wed/thur) after work if you're interested but I'm afraid my parents are down at the weekend so couldn't get out sat and I think I've probably now got too many commitments at work to wangle an afternoon off at short notice (the van is in for a service on Thursday which would have been my only possible option - I could try to catch the train somewhere I guess).
Can maybe do an evening (wed/thur) after work if you're interested but I'm afraid my parents are down at the weekend so couldn't get out sat and I think I've probably now got too many commitments at work to wangle an afternoon off at short notice (the van is in for a service on Thursday which would have been my only possible option - I could try to catch the train somewhere I guess).
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Yes it's good to know and the motivation is there, but the time just isn't. Anyway i'm enjoying the process so we'll see where we end up. I thought i had until the beginning of Sept (when i start Uni) to get it done but it turns out i don't start until the 19th and it's fresher's week etc so i've got a bit more leeway.
Got on The Bulge, despite the seepage. Actually quite a good session with the new beta working well. Tried some links at the top (which was dry) but had the wrong shoes with me. I'd left my normal shoes at work and thought i'd be ok with my bouldering shoes. After i'd done the groove up to the roof and pulled through the wet bit i was nearly crying. Furthest i got was from the flake to the big throw. I just couldn't bring myself to push hard through my feet. However it made me look at moves individually and i feel like i've tidied quite a bit up.
Had a campus AnCap session which went OK and gives me some benchmarks to work on improving. Tried an auto belay session AnCap on Sunday but felt really run down. I tried the' warm up and see how i get on' approach but i felt grim so gave up as i was climbing the next day.
Cheers Dan. Yes it's good to know and the motivation is there, but the time just isn't. Anyway i'm enjoying the process so we'll see where we end up. I thought i had until the beginning of Sept (when i start Uni) to get it done but it turns out i don't start until the 19th and it's fresher's week etc so i've got a bit more leeway.
Got on The Bulge, despite the seepage. Actually quite a good session with the new beta working well. Tried some links at the top (which was dry) but had the wrong shoes with me. I'd left my normal shoes at work and thought i'd be ok with my bouldering shoes. After i'd done the groove up to the roof and pulled through the wet bit i was nearly crying. Furthest i got was from the flake to the big throw. I just couldn't bring myself to push hard through my feet. However it made me look at moves individually and i feel like i've tidied quite a bit up.
Had a campus AnCap session which went OK and gives me some benchmarks to work on improving. Tried an auto belay session AnCap on Sunday but felt really run down. I tried the' warm up and see how i get on' approach but i felt grim so gave up as i was climbing the next day.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dandan. Yes I've done gait analysis numerous times I think I'm a bit beyond that now, perhaps physio or running coach or something? Cheers for the word on the BHAG.
Cheers Dandan. Yes I've done gait analysis numerous times I think I'm a bit beyond that now, perhaps physio or running coach or something? Cheers for the word on the BHAG.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Glad you enjoyed Gogarth. With those sport grades, you should be looking at safe(ish) E5s! The Main Cliff E5s are a decent bet, as are a lot of Pembroke and Swanage ones, but best of all is Lower Sharpnose - check out Fay and Pacemaker. Give me a shout if you fancy some interesting stuff. Black Magic, America and Il Duce are on my list for the south west.
Glad you enjoyed Gogarth. With those sport grades, you should be looking at safe(ish) E5s! The Main Cliff E5s are a decent bet, as are a lot of Pembroke and Swanage ones, but best of all is Lower Sharpnose - check out Fay and Pacemaker. Give me a shout if you fancy some interesting stuff. Black Magic, America and Il Duce are on my list for the south west.
In reply to Misha:
Yeah, it was a good weekend; thanks for organising! I'm aware that E5 is within reach, it's just a question of confidence... I haven't been doing much trad lately. I went to Lower Sharpnose last year, and thought Fay was great. Pacemaker is definitely on the list! As are most of the routes you mention there... sounds like we could pencil in a weekend for N Cornwall.
Yeah, it was a good weekend; thanks for organising! I'm aware that E5 is within reach, it's just a question of confidence... I haven't been doing much trad lately. I went to Lower Sharpnose last year, and thought Fay was great. Pacemaker is definitely on the list! As are most of the routes you mention there... sounds like we could pencil in a weekend for N Cornwall.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan! Bugger on my poor maths!
M - rest
T - Brookes Boulder and campus
W - fingerboard /conditioning
T - CapPow Brookes
F - routes / Boulder Big Rock
S - work and then drove To the Peak. Jerry's too wet so sulked as was too late to decamp to wall and ate lots instead. Conditioning.
S - trad Wildcat in afternoon once dried out. Cataclysm (HVS 5a) and Tut's Anomalous (E1 5b) were most fun
Thanks Dan! Bugger on my poor maths!
M - rest
T - Brookes Boulder and campus
W - fingerboard /conditioning
T - CapPow Brookes
F - routes / Boulder Big Rock
S - work and then drove To the Peak. Jerry's too wet so sulked as was too late to decamp to wall and ate lots instead. Conditioning.
S - trad Wildcat in afternoon once dried out. Cataclysm (HVS 5a) and Tut's Anomalous (E1 5b) were most fun
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