/ Ouray Trip Planned - Which Rope Should We Buy?

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Davey_HB on 09 Sep 2016
Good morning all,

The next ice climbing trip has been booked. This time we are off to Ouray Ice Park and are hoping to put the last 3 years of courses to work and climb ourselves without a guide.

With that being the case, we now also need to buy ourselves a new rope suitable for ice climbing. Ideally we are looking for a 70m rope which is light and obviously dry-treated.

Anyone ever been to Ouray before? If so, which rope did you use? Anyone any general recommendations on a single 70m dry-treated rope?

All answers appreciated.

DB
Marq - on 09 Sep 2016
In reply to Davey_HB:

I went several years ago to climb in the park and used a pair of 60m dry treated half ropes. If I was going tomorrow I'd still go for half ropes and would be using my nice icelines.

Enjoy, it is a great place with some nice cafes for post climb refreshment. Note if you want to do some of the routes away from the ice park they you are likely to need a 4x4 to access some of the tracks.

Marq
George Fisher - on 09 Sep 2016
In reply to Davey_HB:

I'd be inclined to take a pair of 60m 8.5mm doubles. That way I could use one as a single while TRing stuff in the park. (a lot of the park is aimed at TRing with chains at the top. Use both leading the longer routes in the Pic'o'the Vic area and then take both out into the back country.

I can recommend doing 'The Ribbon' (don't follow another party on this) and taking a drive over to Telluride and doing 'Aims Ice hose' and Bridalvail falls.
GarethSL on 09 Sep 2016
In reply to Davey_HB:

If you are planning on leading then half ropes are the way forward. Huge advantages for ice climbing and multi-pitch.

If you only plan to top-rope, or do a small amount of leading, then any 70m dry treated rope will do. Mammut infinity 9.5 perhaps. Dmm also do a bunch of dry treated 70m ropes.

I was also under the impression that there are a lot of ropes in place at the ice park(?), someone can surely verify this. But maybe that's only during the festival.
neilwiltshire on 09 Sep 2016
In reply to George Fisher:

I think you means a pair of half ropes rather than doubles. Doubles have to be paired together at all times. Both ropes through every bit of gear.
George Fisher - on 09 Sep 2016
In reply to neilwiltshire:

Yes I do mean half ropes.

Although I'd call doubles 'twins' in that case.

Blimey on 10 Sep 2016
In reply to George Fisher:

Have climbed in and around Ouray many times. If you intend to only lead in the Ice Park use half or twin ropes. Some are rated for both uses. Golden Dry is superb, ropes will stay dry and pretty much weigh the same at the end of the day. Some of the back country routes can get wet, top pitches of Gravities Rainbow and Stairway to Heaven spring to mind.
Although in the newer guides some routes such as Whorehouse Hoses have a seventy metre first pitch they can generally be climbed and abbed off with a sixty metre rope. (with care, a high bottom stance and rope stretch)

If you want to second in the Ice Park it may well be worth considering a 50m rope as well and just lowering the climber into the gorge and then belaying them back up, quicker, less faff and safer than standing at the bottom.
Hope this helps.
L john campbell - on 23 Sep 2016
In reply to Davey_HB:

Hi Davey,

I live here in Ouray. For climbing in the park 60m works fine top roping. I use a 10mm rope for durability. for leading anything else in the area, and you should check out all the great climbs outside the park, 70m half ropes are highly recommended. most routes you need to rappel off.

one other recommendation is to buy a 20m section of 9 or 10 mm static line for setting up your anchors in the park. last year many trees had to be removed for beetle infestation and concrete anchor pads were installed. a short static rope makes setting up TR anchors clean and easy.

once your here feel free to stop my shop, alpine Luddites, www.alpineluddites.com, if you have questions. Ouray mountain sports, our local gear shop, is also a great place for information once your here.

jc
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Bwox - on 14:57 Mon
In reply to neilwiltshire:

> I think you means a pair of half ropes rather than doubles. Doubles have to be paired together at all times. Both ropes through every bit of gear.

Half ropes = double ropes

Twin ropes are the ones to be clipping both every runner, per Geore Fisher's reply.

Hopefully justifiable pedantry.

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