/ UKC FitClub week 495

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Dandan82 - on 11 Sep 2016
Placeholder, took longer to get back from a wedding than i had hoped, stats to follow this evening
Dandan82 - on 11 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Good evening FitClubbers!
It’s a lovely evening in the South, I hope it is where you are too, I’ve been stuck at a wedding so no outdoor climbing for me, I hope some of you had more luck!

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=649118

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:

The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:

Last week's posters:
JayK - I often have a good session when I don’t expect it, there must be some kind of pattern to it…
Si dH - “two handed hang from the ceiling beam pinches with 14kg added to bodyweight” I still find this incredible! The weird variation in grip strengths is bizarre isn’t it, makes you wonder quite how valid a benchmark on any one grip really is…
Biscuit - Shame about the Bulge and the weather, I guess this weekend hasn’t helped matters?
AJM - You’ve got it all going on, hope your decent week materialised?
Mrchewy - At least an hour stretching and Antag every day is incredible, Tyler are you reading this?!
SteveM - Mega progress, well done on the brace of HVS’s!
Ally Smith - Good route progress and good fingerboard progress, you must be doing something very right!
Ian Bell - sounds like the rest did you good! Dont break anything before Kalymnos!
Hms - Good looking week of climbing, less good on your bad news Saturday. Get up the 7b+ or 7c this week?
D1 - Good to see your work/life balance is going ok! Get yourself on more sport routes!
Dandan - Just keep doing what Tom tells you…
Hokkyokusei - Sorry to hear about the shin splints, has it resolved itself this week?
Bobling - As much as I love the injury report, I want it to be reporting more positive things soon!
Leeboy1985 - Good stuff on the goals, sounds like a fun week was had
Tyler - You know you don’t have to wait until week 500 to keep up the rehab…
Just Tintin - FitClub 500 challenges sound good, i’ll add them to the list. Polarised was hard second time but felt better 3rd time around, I think I have the level right now.
Curious Yellow - Well done on jurassic shift! Did you learn anything from your ‘terrible sequence’?
Heelhookofglory - I’m not seeing enough climbing in your week Heelhook… ;)

*FitClub 500 Goals*
It’s the 500th FitClub on the 16th of October and Tyler suggested coming up with a goal to achieve by then, possibly something you don’t usually do, or a goal aimed at a weakness of yours. Feel free to suggest your own goals or goals for other people based on what you know about them, anyone who completes their goal will be rewarded with a huge sense of self-satisfaction and a cheque for £2000.*

Tyler: Physio every day for a week with perfect form/ touch your toes
hms - do some steep bouldering with dynamic moves/get back on RHM
AJM - Get on 2x E5/ tick Cider Soak/ dog to top a Montserrat 8a+
Si dH - Do some offwidths/ boulder 7C
Ally Smith - do ToTG, do some deadlifts/bench bodyweight, cycle to work everyday for a week,
Luke Owens - do a 10 sessions of low end aero-cap before week 500
Dandan - Climb >7b slabby/technical/arete (struggling to find one local)
Biscuit - Techy slab head point
SteveM - 500 antag exercises in the week. (Easy!)
JustTintin - Jerrys Traverse and/or E3 lead
Ukb shark - Austrian Oak and a £2000 cheque

*Cheque for £2000 may not be genuine
JayK - on 11 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

M-9 mile run followed by core session.
T- Rest
W-Short board session.
T-Intervals followed by fingerboard session and core set.
S-Parkrun (18:50) then bouldering session at the wall.
S-Rest, still potential to head for a shortish run in a bit.
TonyB - on 11 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Hi, I've been absent for quite a few weeks, basically the whole school summer holidays. I've been away with the family for some of the time and fitting in childcare and work, I hadn't been able to keep any kind of structure. I managed to get some climbing this summer but quite little. I had a good day seconding some harder trad in Swanage with Nick, I did the VS challenge at Stanage (36 VS's in a day), I got a small amount of sport climbing in the Gower and had a probably had a few goes on Aberration. I also managed a couple of sessions a week at the wall, but these were pretty unstructured. This week has seen a move back to a more structured training. I didn't get everything done that I wanted, but am pretty pleased.

Mon - Fun boulder session + continuous climbing
Tue - Quite hard problems with short rests. This didn't really work too well, and needs some adjustment
Wed - short circuits, short rests
Thur - fingerboard repeaters
Fri - rest
Sat - Chee Dale. I planned to get back on Aberration. I've had a long break from it and probably had 10 sessions on it in total. I didn't sleep well and wasn't feeling very motivated, so I decided to try Lightweight (7c) instead as my friend had been working it. My first go was terrible, but I wasn't feeling it and wasn't warmed up. The next two goes I managed to suss the moves. On my fourth go, I almost got it falling on a powerful move above the last bolt. My fingers were really sore, as it is sharp and my skin is thin. I gave it one more attempt, I didn't feel good and was more tired than previously through the lower section. After clipping the last bolt there is still quite a bit to go and it's reasonably powerful with bad feet. I really tried hard through this section, making sure I was strong on every move and not conserving energy and made it to the top. It's the 2nd time I've done a 7c in day, and I was pretty pleased with it, but next time I'm in Chee Dale, I'll make sure I get back on Aberration.
Sun - core

Next week my wife is away. It's pretty hard to get a full week training when she's away, due to childcare and it will be a good test of how disciplined I can be.
AJM - on 11 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

> AJM - You’ve got it all going on, hope your decent week materialised?

Cheers Dan. I did OK. Down one sufferfest which was going to be this evening but in trying to plan out my week that causes a clash with trying to get out on the bike tomorrow night, need to guage speed for Sunday so not that keen to not be fresh for it...
- I did a foot on campus session - OK but not spectacular. Probably about where I was for Chulilla, which is good, but it would be nice to nudge the headline score up a bit to get it more towards the figures I had for Wildside...
- fingerboard session - some progress, recruitment coming back a bit
- I did a sufferfest which was a lot faster than my previous effort, perhaps because of the fan but hopefully because I'm getting a bit faster too.
- I dug out 2 stumps, so only 2 remain. The end is definitely in sight.
- I got an evening out and ticked a 7a+ at dancing ledge second go.

The weekend was a bit of a diversion from plan - with Ally's shoulder hurt I had no partner for Cider soak. We decided to stay at home because we were a bit tired rather than venture further afield to Pembroke; in hindsight the weather on Saturday morning was worse than anticipated so Pembroke would probably have been the best call. But I went to the wall and felt good - crushed some problems I'd struggled on in previous visits and some moves I just didn't think I'd get I managed to do so hopefully the zip is coming back in time for Cider soak. Today we went out and did some trad but despite setting off up ocean boulevard I down climbed after a while - full sun and no wind and baking rock just meant it was all too sweaty. Keep to get on it again in slightly cooler conditions and the rest of that wall looks mint.

Plan for the week:
- out on the bike as a test run for the weekend, then the ride itself on Sunday
- fingers crossed for a last outdoor evening of the season midweek and a day on Cider Soak on Saturday
- at least 1 sufferfest in the week
- something climbing related - a foc session perhaps or a fingerboard session

Once the ride is out of the way this weekend I'll also fairly soon be giving up on evening climbing too so focus will probably be on those last 2 stumps and last ditch training for Cider soak and then Montserrat...
mrchewy - on 11 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

I'd like to think that at least an hour a day is great but it's not - I haven't got a choice if I want to climb again.

Had to shake everything up this week due to the physio's new regime which reads as easy but is breaking me in a good way. A focus on strengthening now that I have the flexibility back in the spine and boy, am I weak, so even doing not a lot is battering me out. So Tyler will be happy I'm doing less... I've had to take more rest to heal and rebuild.

Mon - AM 30min Stretches PM 1.5hr Conditioning
Tue - AM 30min Yoga (core) PM My birthday, so movie and a nice meal
Wed - AM 1hr conditioning PM Wall. 2x2 on rope 5+. a play on the circuit board, some hangs. Happy hanging the upper monos on the BM
Thu - AM 1hr Conditioning PM 30min Stretches
Fri - AM 1hr Conditioning. PM 2hr on Paul's home board. Great session. Oddly, did stuff I'm not sure I could have managed last summer. Should have stretched after but bought a bottle of fizzy wine and necked it in 20 minutes - had some good test results from the hospital. Thought I'd celebrate that and the board session.
Sat - REST!!! Core felt like I'd done 15 rounds with Cassius Clay. Did some rolling.
Sun - AM/PM Moat Buttress. Got on Afloat on the Moat 6c+. Last week couldn't make the first clip on top rope, mainly due to weak core. This week? Cruised up to the 2nd bolt before getting a little nervous and lost. Haven't led since March, so to be expected. Had three runs up but could only sort what not to do on the crux. Pretty broken after the last go.

I'm feeling really optimistic - the physio is great and I'm more than happy to do exactly what she says and add in what I can. She gave me supermen to do and they've felt incredibly hard, so this week coming, I'm going to add supplemental core work when I can. Adjusting Paul's board to 15deg allowed me to have a good play but was steep enough to give my fingers and core a proper workout and it really highlighted core weakness.
Nice to be out today. Despite onsighting a 6b route three years ago, lots since and flashing four font6Bs in Spain - I've never managed to get up anything harder, no matter how many times. So it felt normal today to be back on 6cs and failing. I'm massively unfit, the core is weak, I feel a little nervous but there's lots of positives too. My shoulders feel way more stable, the fingers are strong enough for the grade and I'm trusting my feet.

Best bit of the week was managing three scapular pullups.

Keep going with the physio this week, try and get outside again on Sunday, a session on Paul's board and hopefully some cycling.
Bobling - on 11 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:
Good news as requested! Yesterday I led one of my VS lead mid-term goals - Suspension Flake (VS 4c) which I am pretty chuffed about. I last looked at it five and a half years ago just before sprog no 1 arrived and was too hungover and had no one who I trusted to belay me on it with me so didn't do it and it's been a monkey on my back (is that right?) ever since, particularly as I have not got any stronger since then. It's not my natural style and looks pretty intimidating but with the focussed training courtesy of FitClub I felt strong enough to give it a go and motivated enough. I'm really glad I'd done a couple of indoor sessions as straight-arming on jugs on an overhanging wall did not feel completely unnatural. Anyway I got up it and was chuffed and the rest of the day was spent having fun with a bouldering mat at Hound Tor and Smallacombe and though we didn't get up much we had a good time with plenty of laughs and beautiful scenery. Next up Questor (VS 4b) or Unknown Wall (VS 4c)?

Mon - P45, S40
Tues - Nothing
Weds - P46,S45
Thurs - Swim, unknown length as lap-counter went wrong. C.1500 metres.
Fri - Nothing
Sat - Bouldering at Smallacombe and Hound Tor and Suspension Flake!
Sun - Nothing
Weight: 73.05
Injury report: Exercises ongoing. An impromptu 20 minute run across Dartmoor to retrieve a dropped phone did not result in limping all day today. Good sign!

Short Term (next four weeks)
Press -ups - 60 in 2 mins.
Sit-ups 50 in 2 mins
Flash 6b at the wall.

Medium Term (over course of next year)
Get up a 6c at the wall.
Fix whatever the f**k it is that is stopping me from running.
Start ticking a few routes that are local that I really need to do - Unknown Wall at Avon, The Pat Littlejohn VS's at Wyndcliffe, Suspension Flake at Hound Tor (TICK!), Osiris at Fall Bay, Tons in Pembs, Tons at Chair Ladder, LBJ and Anvil Chorus at Bosi
Lots of others that I'll add to this list as I remember/come across them.

Long Term
I'd love to run a marathon! The Cuillin Ridge, DoWH

BHAG - Cenotaph Corner
Post edited at 22:49
Just Tintin - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Bobling:

Hi Bobling,

Looking at your goals I think you might need to move Cenotaph Corner into LTG and come up with a bigger hairier BHAG? With steady progress on VS and a good plan as you seem to have, E1 should be well in sight in the next few years rather than a distant dream!
Ian Bell - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

STG - Good last few weeks pre Kalymnos, stay in shape and don't get injured!
MTG = 7b+ pyramid this year. So far 5x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b.
BHAG = 8a by 40

FITCLUB 500 goal - do MTG by week 500 which is the week I return from Kalymnos.

Weds - 90 mins strength and conditioning
Weekend - Ludlow food festival and eating. Did manage to walk 8-10 miles each day at least

As anticipated a light week last week with lots of other commitments. Had planned to do a days sport climbing at the weekend but didn't in the end. 3 weeks to go to Kalymnos but the good news is no more non climbing evening commitments so should be able to get 5 days a week in of various things for the next couple of weeks.
SteveM - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:
Thanks Dan, a couple more ticked this weekend

STG (end of Sept)
Get on at least one HVS per trad session (ticking along)
Base training for Abbey Dash 10K in October (just 1 run last week, sore achilles is back)
Bike commuting at least once a week (no)
SkiFit once a week, includes core work (no)

MTG (end of 2016)
Solid at UK HVS
Regular exercise schedule

LTG (2017 and beyond)
Regular e-points!
Orange alpine circuit at Font
Multi-day ski tours
Yosemite big walling again

Big wall solo

Last week was
Mon Soloing at Almscliff
Tues Nothing, work dinner in evening.
Wed 30min trail run at lunchtime, another work dinner in evening!
Thu Back at Almscliff, solos to warm-up then bouldering on Crucifix Arete and Pebble Wall (got to the pebble). 3 easy trad leads with LMC beginner on Low Man.
Fri Planned some gym time at lunch but work got in the way
Sat Afternoon at Shepherds Crag after lots of rain overnight, 2 more HVS done: Kransic Crack Direct (HVS 5a) and Finale (HVS 5a). Was thinking of having a look at Conclusion but it was totally soaked after the heavy rain overnight.
Sun Swapped leads on Holly Tree Direct (HVS 4c) at Raven Crag, seconded the crux pitch. Then soloed and seconded for the rest of the afternoon.

Not a lot accomplished fitness-wise in the week due to work and life getting in the way. Fitting in a run on a busy Wednesday between meetings meant no warm down or stretching which has flared up my achilles again. But the Lakes was fab, must do more on rock with proper holds.
Post edited at 09:23
leeboy1985 - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Bobling:

Well done on Suspension Flake
leeboy1985 - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks Dandan

Mid term goals are going quite well at the moment. I was hoping to get another one ticked this weekend but illness stopped me from having what started out as a really good week.
Really need to watch my eating this week to start achieving my short term goals

Last weeks goals

Drop to 82kg - Fail still 83kg
2 mountain walks - Fail but I did get a short run in early on in the week
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp. Don't know if I will be able to achieve this as I might have to work all next weekend but I'm going to leave it on as a goal to try and push for it. - Fail
Climb at least twice - Tick (at least I got one tick)

Next weeks goals

Drop to 82kg
2 mountain walks
Get a big hill day in hopefully with a mountaineering route in or if not a wild camp. Don't know if I will be able to achieve this as I might have to work all next weekend but Im going to leave it on as a goal to try and push for it.
Climb at least twice

MTG Sept 2016
Be steady on HS routes - looking good so far
Lead 1 VS route - Complete Exchange (VS 4b)
Revised goal - lead Arch Slab (VS 4c) Scavenger (VS 4c)The Druid (VS 4c) by end of Sept
Scavenger now complete

LTG winter 2016/2017
Get experience in Scottish winter

Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Orion Face Direct (V 5)

Monday - Endurance session at Llangorse, traversing the bouldering wall 20 min on 10 min rest, 15 min on 10 min rest, 10 min on 10 min rest. Should of kept up at least 15 min as the 10min on didn't really feel like long enough. 3 x 30 second dead hangs with 30 second rest between. Some antagonistic.
30 min 3.2 mile run
Tuesday - Rest
Wednesday - 5+ and 6b on the auto belay. 3 up and 2 down on the auto belay concentrating on small foot holds to improve footwork. 1 hour bouldering session
Thursday - 15 min yoga in the morning. Climbed Flidington Rex (5a) and top roped Orangutanarium (6b) felt really bad so called it a night
Friday - Chest infection
Saturday - Chest Infection
Sunday - Chest Infection

Feeling a lot better today so going to try some easy routes tonight now I can breath and see how it goes

Happy Training

hms - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks for the stats, Dan. I didn't have an indoor routes session this week so the 7c & 7b+ will have to wait. Keen for a rematch on them so maybe this week.

M - cycle commute. 1 hour yoga for climbers class in the evening. Nothing very remarkable but a lot of static stretches of the sort Nina has been pestering me about but I don't do as often as I should, so probably time well spent.
T - cycle commute. Evening 1/2 a core session, then fingerboarding 7/3/6/3 for 12 sets on pretty much all the holds except the baby crimps, then the other 1/2 of the core session.
W - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, short circuit session - did about 12 in an hour.
T - cycle commute. Armistice in the evening to tick the 7a I'd unearthed last week. It had some well tricky moves so was not a gift at the grade. The 7c looks more accessible now, esp as I found an additional bolt hiding behind the tree so can attach whilst hacking brambles. Could be an autumn shunting project.
F - couple of miles walking, plus lots of rehab & stretching. Drove to Portland for weekend climbing with CY.
S - Portland was soaking, so CY & went met up with AJM at The Project. The lack of grades is weird. Tried a huge heap of stuff, got up rather less. Highlight was a weird problem with a heelhook and pockets. Took a couple of goes but went from wtf? to hell yeah! which was very nice.
S - Portland was beautiful and sunny so we went to Wallsend. 6b warmup then 7a onsight - my first in the UK, although I think I went a somewhat non-standard way near the top. CY dogged a rope up an awesome 7b with a nails start, but we were short of time as we both had to get home. I'm sure if would go, but would need to get the start totally wired which in 1 1/2 goes it most definitely was not!

Writing that all up, I seem to have had a pretty busy week. No idea about this next one. Weather not looking so great but may be able to get out on Friday (cashing in D2 belay credits) and/or Sat (D1 - up for that nice 7a on the Tsunami?)
Ally Smith on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Quick post from me - mostly travelling this week, which is good as my shoulder needs rest & rehab.

M - Devil’s Gorge was a hideous condensed mess, so drove on to the cave of justice. The back of that was damp too, but with some chalk, project #4 was doable. It went down 1st RP with some extra gurning at the lip. Starting to think that this was 8a+ and the Devil’s Gorge project is baby 8b? Had a couple of goes on linking Trigger Cut into Almost Familiar too, but shoulder got sore and I quit. It's been grumbly ever since.

It could be a couple of weeks before i'm back at DG, or even next year given how fickle conditions are there, so what have I learnt about the project?
- It’s hard – baby 8b?
- I can do it
- Rest at the good holds at bolt 4, then sprint the top section of DH, skipping the undercut draw
- 120cm sling in hanger bolt next to belay, plus heavy 30cm draw to weigh it down – makes pulling slack through easier
- Knee "up & over" into kneebar rest, then straighten your arms to get the most back
- Revolver (double length?) the first clip in Conyonlands, or maybe skip it? Wouldn’t be behind your leg
- Make sure tick mark is on the crux crimp – get front finger on sharp bit
- Move quicker – pull harder – set hand quick in the slot and smash on!

The rest of the week has been barely worth recording, and this week is probably the same.

UKCFC 500 challenge - need to get back out on the bike and join a gym. ToTG looking doubtful.
Dandan82 - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks me, been a busy week training-wise but I don't feel completely broken which is very encouraging.

M: Nothing, 'nipped' round my mates to set up my tubeless tyres, ended up taking all night

T: Indoor boulder; 3x8 mins continuity. Also core session to catch up from Monday

W: Little ride in the woods

T: Indoor routes; polarised continuity, starting to get a feel for the level now I think, it's really quite a pleasant session

F: Weighted fingerboard; All exercises done on the outer middle slots on BM2k with AA batteries stuck in the back (FitClub top tip, cheers!), I measured it as 18mm deep. 3x 2RM chin ups at +37kg.
4 sets of 7/3 for 6 reps at 75% of 10 second max weighted hang, I was a bit rushed for trying to set a max hang benchmark but weirdly I think it came out at about the same or LESS than my 2RM weight! Energy failed fast so did the 7/3 sets at +28, +25, +23, +18 respectively, by the end I was basically stood on the floor and swiping ineffectually at the slots...

S: Bouldershed, 3x 8min continuity in the morning before heading to a wedding, this is where the boulder shed is invaluable, a 40 minute session took me 41 minutes including travelling from my house and back!

S: Bouldershed; Triples on the Moonboard, 3x V5 with 5 sec and 15 sec rest respectively, 6 sets. I think I set it right as I failed on the last move of the last rep, but the training plan suggested V6.
I think the reason for dropping the grade is due to the moonboard, I personally think everything is massively undergraded on there, but also I've not had much chance to use it and the style takes some getting used to, you REALLY have to engage your core and keep tight to the board, hopefully I can get more time on it and feel more comfortable on the harder problems, but in the meantime I'm happy with doing the session at V5.

I have to admit to missing a core session this week, but it has been busy in terms on non-climbing activity so hopefully that won't happen this week, it's another 7 session epic!
I really must sort out some new goals... Margalef in 6 weeks!
hokkyokusei - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

> Good evening FitClubbers!


> Hokkyokusei - Sorry to hear about the shin splints, has it resolved itself this week?

Physio reckoned it isn't actually shin splints, but an over tight muscle due to the way I angle my ankle. She may well be right, because a bit of massage certainly did wonders. Enough to make me think I'd be OK to downgrade to the Yorkshireman Half Marathon. Everything was fine until about 11.5km just after the first significant downhill section and then it flared up again. Back to the physio tomorrow.

m - 10k cycling
t - 10k cycling
w - beer crawl around York for GF's birthday
t - 9k cycling
f - beer festival
s - 18k cycling
s - 24km off road running - Yorkshireman Half 2:59:32

Weight 80.5kg, Body fat 19% - need to focus!

STG - Get over shin injury.
MTG - PB at Amsterdam Half Marathon.
LTG - Climb a big mountain next year.

Ally Smith on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Did you calculate the 75% level right?

Tom had previously said to me that these type of exercises are done at 75% of your 5s hang on a BM1K slot (or BM2K + AA battery).

You said previously you were at 105% at +3kg, therefore bodyweight = 60kg, and max pulling power = 63kg

63kg x2 = 126kg
126kg x 75% = 94.5kg
94.5kg - 60kg = 34.5kg hanging off your harness!

If Tom really meant 75% - back around and try harder...

jas128 - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Very little done by me this week. It was my first week working so was pretty exhausted at the end of each day.
M: Yoga. Really enjoyed it and am going back today. Hopefully it'll help my upper back/shoulders loosen a bit as they are so tense.
Did pretty much nothing for the rest of the week. Saturday was spent with lots of cleaning which wasn't easy work, and went for a walk on Sunday.
Aiming to get an indoor session in at some point this week, and maybe a trip to Cheddar...
Ally Smith on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to jas128:

> and maybe a trip to Cheddar...

The 7a on the Tsunami is easier and a million miles more pleasant than the 6c+...
Si dH - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

> , I was a bit rushed for trying to set a max hang benchmark but weirdly I think it came out at about the same or LESS than my 2RM weight!

I found this too at one stage when I first did a weighted chinup routine, on those holds. For me, the 2 chinups were taking about 8 seconds and it was finger strength hang time was limited on, so it was actually a slightly easier exercise than a 10 second max hang. It was the other way around the 35 degree slopers and 2 finger pockets as it's hard to stay stable on those as you pull up, and also the slopers obviously get worse when you are high on them.

I just realised you might have been talking about a 5 second max benchmark - that would be weird.
Dandan82 - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Ally Smith:
I'm not sure those figures apply in this case do they? Doing a 5 sec hang on the BM2K with AA battery is not the same as a 5 sec hang on Tom's edge, surely? I don't think I could do 105% on the BM edge, it feels a lot harder than Tom's edge to me.

Anyhoo, session sheet says 75% of your max 10 second, 2 hand weighted hang on 18-22mm slot. (it doesn't specify a slot by brand, just that dimension)

I was in a bit of a rush (and weirdly I had to vigorously mix a cake halfway through the session) but I thought that as I had previously done 2 chin ups with my wife hanging from me (56kg) on the full depth slots, I should be able to hang her weight for 10 seconds on the 18mm slot. I was very wrong, I couldn't come close, so I tried using all the weight I used for the 2RM exercise (37kg) and I think I just managed that, so did 75% of 37kg = 28kg and started there.
It definitely needs a decent bit of un-rushed time to set a proper benchmark but it's not going to be far off that because regardless, the 7/3 felt mega hard and if I hadn't dropped the weight each time I would have done 0 reps by the end! This probably says a lot about the balance of my energy systems I guess?

I'll happily go back around and have another go at it, maybe I was having a weak/bad day? I'll find out on Friday, it's on the plan again!

As an aside, I'm not quite skinny enough to weigh 60kg! I'm 65kg, so pulling 68 (65+3) on Tom's edge actually gave me 104.6% if you don't round up.
Post edited at 14:56
Si dH - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:
Short post from me this week as I'm writing on my phone.

M: bouldering at the Climbing Unit. Good long session working on some more of the blue problems on the comp wall. Did 2 more of them.
T: core session I think.
W: rest
T: max hang session, felt heavy/weak.
F-S: mate's stag do in Prague. Drunk ridiculous amount, heaviest 3 days I've ever had. Good but not looking to finding out what effect it's had! Currently chilling by Charles Bridge before leaving for home.

Weight last week was 11st4.

Post edited at 15:20
AJM - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:
Shouldn't it be 75% of weight pulled - 0.75*(bodyweight+37) - your max hang is your max weight pulled not max supplementary weight pulled. I think that would be about 102kg so a 75% of 76kg so more like bw+11.
Post edited at 15:35
Dandan82 - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to AJM:

You might have a point, I'll check with Tom. Also, that would make it a damn sight more do-able!
Dandan82 - on 12 Sep 2016
In reply to AJM:

Yup, turns out it should have been 75% of total weight including my body weight, no wonder they were so flipping hard.
Feeling a bit better about the next fingerboard session now!
biscuit - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Cheers Dan. No it didn't help. Ah well nothing you can do about the weather.

A good few sessions last week but not too focussed really. I think the realisation was setting in that the bulge wasn't going to happen (this week marked a month since I was on it due to rain/seepage) so I drifted.

Can't remember what I did on Monday instead of outside. I did something I'm sure. No doubt it was an excellent session.

Wednesday I was coaching at the depot so had a climb before hand on the circuits. Attempted aero pow doing half the 7a or b circuit, step off for a min then do the other half. Round twice (4reps) for a set and 4 sets done. Pumpy. Then had a climb with the kids trying some purples and above ready for the comp. I'm still just managing to do moves/problems they can't. However I feel that's only because they're only about 5 foot tall.

Thursday back to depot for climb and yoga. Volume/technique session. Felt really good to focus back on movement and technique, learnt lots. Yoga was good. Didn't feel much at the time but the next morning showed it worked all the right bits.

Saturday was comp day. Kids had a wicked time and we had some great results for an open comp with a lot of national standard climbers in it. Really well set comp for kids. Climbed after trying the harder problems with a parent and some of the kids wanting to try some they couldn't do. Lost my crown of beating them on a hard slab and a big dyno, where I punched the target hold after clipping a hold on the way. Much embarrassment and blood.

New mtg/ltg's set. Off to uni next week and life is going to be v busy. Indoors and bouldering will be the focus, along with rare trips to Parisella's and more regular trips to CyL.

I'm entering the Battle of Britain in November and the Winter league at the depot (I'm a young vet so shouldn't embarrass myself too much). The plan is to see where I get and then smash the results next year. I need to focus on:

Getting strong!
Bouldering stamina - 20 med to hard problems in a session
Roof/v steep ground technique -toe/heel hooks in particular
Dyno technique
Hip flexor strength

Targets re scores/positions and outdoor goals along with process goals will come together over the next few weeks.

guy127917 - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Hi all, new to FitClub, looking forward to getting involved over the next few weeks. I just got back from a (disastrous) trip to the alps last week so am starting to get going on the next phase of training up this week. Prior to a couple of summer alpine trips I completed a 12 week training plan with a PT which was my first structured block of climbing training. My main issues right now are bad diet and poor flexibility. I could definitely use some accountability/advice on the nutrition front, this will be my biggest focus over the next 2 months I think. Yesterday I started day one of the gymnastic strength training foundation programme. I'm going to be doing that for the next 30 days to try and learn more about what I need to work on and how.

Short term Goals:
Sport climbing trip to costa blanca 19/11-04/12, hope to get first 7a tick.
Sub 19 minute 5k (races 30/09 and 28/11)
Reduce weight to 78kg by 19/11 (currently ~82kg)
Do some form of mobility work daily (based on GST foundation)
Dandan82 - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to guy127917:
Welcome along Guy, I'm sure you'll be able to find some helpful advice here.
I'm about as flexible as Donald Trump's Immigration policy so can't help much there, in fact I was doing a gymnastic strength routine as well, I can thoroughly recommend it for antagonistic exercise, but it didn't make me any more flexible! That's probably more due to me than the gymnastic exercises so I'd still recommend it.

As for diet, I think most people know how to eat well at the most basic level, if you can say that your diet is currently bad, then you must know why it is bad, hence you should be able to improve it for the better. Gram by gram breakdown of your calorie intake is unnecessary at the level of mere mortals like us, I think the biggest barrier to most people having a good diet is willpower and motivation to eat well.
Take some overarching basic principles and try to stick to them, even if it means a bit more food prep, or saying no to something you like, or possibly spending a bit more on food. I think most of the time it's these reasons that people have bad diets, not through lack of knowledge of what is 'good' or 'bad' food.

My food rules are:
-No refined sugar
-Try to limit processed foods, make it from scratch if you can
-Try for 7 of your 5 a day
-If you eat meat, make it high welfare, high quality and don't be afraid of the fat

That's about as detailed as my diet gets, and I almost certainly break every rule at least once a week (usually at weekends) but it's a good bunch of guidelines that are easy to follow. If I put on weight, I eat a bit less of everything or do more exercise, if I lose weight, I eat a bit more or do less, easy.
Post edited at 11:27
Ally Smith on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Welcome Guy, pretty much everything you need to know about nutrition can be found in this post by Will Gadd

planetmarshall on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:
Since the last time I posted I've started a contract in Belgium, which threw a spanner in the works somewhat. Still familiarizing myself with the local facilities ( distinct lack of hills, but good transport links ).

Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Bouldering at Boulder One in Herent. Some ARC and figuring out some routes to use as circuits. Watched a guy who must have been well into his 60s float up a 30 deg overhanging route with perfect technique. Spent most of the evening trying to copy what he did.
Wednesday Rest
Thursday - Circuits again at Boulder One.
Friday - Top roping at Klimax at Puurs, about 40 minutes drive out of Brussels. Grades are nails compared to AW Sheffield, where I can comfortably onsight 6a+. Could barely toprope a 5c. They also have the world cup wall here, which is pretty impressive (https://www.instagram.com/p/BKJjFh0Bd2s). Hoping to try it out this week.
Saturday - First day climbing outside since the move...but in Germany ( Ettringen). An unholy ( by British standards) mix of trad and sport that takes a bit of getting used to. Climbed Jubelgrat (V+), probably about HVS.
Sunday - Day two at Ettringen. Climbed Jump up the Pam (VI) and Irrgarten (VI). HVS-E1 ish. Really impressed by my Flemish climbing partners - despite not really being able to crack climb as such, their technical and sport climbing skills took them up far harder routes than I could manage. Maybe hard Sport really is the key to climbing hard Trad.
Post edited at 13:25
guy127917 - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks for both those replies, both helpful. I agree with Will Gadds post in general, but I have a few reasons why this is one of my top concerns for climbing performance right now (not just "I want to be lighter"). The main reason being that I sit in an office for ~10 hours a day surrounded by unlimited cake/chocolate digestives/all sorts of other nutritionally devoid. Some days I probably eat ~5000cal. Even if I say I don't mind the additional calories, there is no way that quantity of refined sugar is a good idea.

Recently I'd say it has gone from just having a few bad days of diet, to habitual binge eating, which needs to change. Generally I think it has warped my food decision making process and I need to reset somehow. As you said Dan, it's not that I don't KNOW it's bad, it's just in the midst of thinking about work I forget about my climbing/sports goals -hence giving this a go The thing is I know I can perform with little food (ie I do fasted long runs, long alpine days without a lot of food etc) but at work can barely go 2 hours without a snack.

I think a rules based approach is one thing that will work. I have always had a "no nutella" rule at work which has been 100% flawless in 5 years. I have recently publicaly promised to donate a lot of money if I ever eat another chocolate digestive. Maybe I just need to keep adding (sensible) rules- they do seem to remove the need for motivation on a minute-by-minute basis.

One of the places I disagree with Will Gadd's article is that he says non-elite athletes should avoid putting too much focus on diet and just train hard. The thing is though, for us full time workers, training time is quite limited. I'm looking to maximize my return on training time, and if I can do something with the non-training time to help that, perfect.
Dandan82 - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to guy127917:

>The thing is I know I can perform with little food (ie I do fasted long runs, long alpine days without a lot of food etc) but at work can barely go 2 hours without a snack.

I completely understand this, I can barely go an hour without snacking at work, so I have a desk drawer full of fruit, nuts and boiled eggs to keep me away from the chocolate muffins in the canteen...
There's many a time I have been eating an apple and dreaming of a Snickers, but I don't think that ever changes, that's the will-power side of things, it never really gets easy.
leeboy1985 - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Hey guy127917

Welcome to fit club

You seam to be suffering the same fate as me (having an office job with lots of nasty temptations around). I have been trying to lose weight recently but so far I'm not doing the best.

As of today I've started writing down everything I eat to try and see if that helps give me the nudge I need when I see the all the bad things building up. Don't know if it will work but it is worth a try.

mrchewy - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to guy127917:

Hey Guy - welcome.

Flexibility. Did yoga for the past two years and gained no more flexibilty. Spent the last five weeks stretching EVERY day - way more flexible than I've ever been I reckon.
guy127917 - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to mrchewy:

Yeah I tried a yoga course a couple of years ago and didn't see much progress. I guess I wasn't doing it often enough- as you say it seems like you need to do a little bit every day. Do you/anyone know of any good metrics for measuring flexibility (thinking like how close to the ground with straight legs etc, for tracking progress?
guy127917 - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to leeboy1985:

I have found myfitnesspal logging to work in the past, but as soon as I start to see progress I tend to start putting it off and slowly go back to old habits Also often succumb to the terrible mindset of "im already having a bad day, screw it, start again tomorrow".

guy127917 - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

I have a drawer full of protein bars and jerky for this reason. I know you are right when you say it never gets easy and we just have to try hard to apply discipline forever. I need to surrender the idea of a magic diet that prevents craving etc.
Dandan82 - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to guy127917:

> I need to surrender the idea of a magic diet that prevents craving etc.

Apparently the keto diet prevents cravings, but let's not open that can of worms...
mrchewy - on 13 Sep 2016
In reply to guy127917:

I'm actually using yoga poses to do this - if I'm holding them better, then that's good enough. Lots of thoracic spine stretches at the moment. Physio's orders. Have a google, there's plenty of stuff on youtube and I have to say, it's working well.
guy127917 - on 14 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Ha I'm eagerly awaiting for Dave Mcleods book on the subject to come out. Although I am very interested in ketogenic diets, I dont think I have the discipline for it just yet. This was a super interesting podcast on the topic http://fourhourworkweek.com/2015/11/03/dominic-dagostino/
Dandan82 - on 14 Sep 2016
In reply to guy127917:

> Ha I'm eagerly awaiting for Dave Mcleods book on the subject

So that's why there hasn't been a blog about it. I'm not terribly interested in taking it up but I was keen to read about his methods, something to look forward to.

biscuit - on 15 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

HMS I've replied to your email. I'm guessing it'll get through ok, but I've had problems with emailing through here before. Check your spam folder.
Curious Yellow - on 15 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:
What I learnt from my terrible sequence: mainly that I need to make more effort to have a second go on failed onsights as I'm really bad at it. Things I read well first time round I often totally bodge second try.

Mon: Rest.
Tues: Wall. Boulder projects. Doubles x6 on 7a.
Wedns: Quite broken. Double laps on steep boulder problem x6. Meant to do more but sacked it off.
Thurs: Very long day at work. Possibly did a fingerboard session in the evening?
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Wall due to crap weather. Nice to see Mr and Mrs AJM but didn't do much.
Sun: Wallsend. Glorious sunshine Did Vin Chaud (7a) on the right end of the rope this time and had a tired and unproductive thrash on Halfway to Heaven.
biscuit - on 16 Sep 2016
In reply to Curious Yellow:

I always do that too. I can nearly get there on an onsight go but then my second go is always a bad one. Not physically, just read it wrong and no flow. 3rd go is back to normal. Weird!

Just Tintin - on 16 Sep 2016
In reply to Dandan82:

Thanks Dan.

Another not the greatest of weeks with a slightly over-compensating weekend in which I probably overdid it...but, did get some progress on a potential FC500 goal...

M- F: lots of conditioning, fingerboard etc but no climbing
S: Raining.
AM Blackwell was dry so got on Jerry's in the morning. Actually wrote down all the moves which is quite helpful as every time I get back on it I've forgotten whether the next big move is a 'disgustingly strong long left hand crimp catch on crap feet and body tension' or a 'disgustingly strong long left hand crimp catch on one crap foot and a very far away right heel hook'. No excuses for not sequencing the crux right now?
PM Continuity at Wirksworth
S: AM Still too wet for limestone trad and not enough shoulder power to get back on Jerry's, so headed up to Higgar Tor for a pootle up to 6B+.
PM Polarised continuity at Climbing Unit plus some comp problems.

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