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Merry Christmas everyone. Hopefully (if you are so inclined as to celebrate) you won’t be logging on today, but will check in during the relaxing week ahead (ho ho ho). If you are not celebrating, then I hope you are training hard today or sending your projects (though it looks like rain in the peak).
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=655192
TonyB: Awesome writeup, I’m inspired. How is the Christmas rest/restraint going? Look forward to hearing how you get on with round 3!
AJM:
Si dH: Congratulations on JT, hard work paying off by the sound of it. Did bouldering after the shoulder massage go ok?
DanDan: Nice work cranking it this week, good to hear injuries are quiet.
Tyler: How’s being North of the border- did you get out on the trails?
Ally Smith: Nice work on the deadlift PB- how is that weight feeling for you (like reasonably heavy or crushingly heavy)? I found that once I went over a certain point with them it took ages to recover and got in the way of climbing.
HMS: Sounds like a taxing week, keep it up! Not surprised you felt wiped out by Sunday.
Biscuit: Sounds like a decent comeback session. How was the run up to xmas?
AJM: Nice progress on back 3. How comprehensive is your benchmarking- are you keeping records for both 5 and 10s, different grips etc or just working on one weakness?
planetmarshall: I hate bouldering circuits in busy gyms, it never works “right” eh. How is/was El Chorro over xmas?
LeeBoy: Sounds like a great week of progress towards your goals!
The Sheep: 3 runs in a week… :-o
Hokkyo: Aww bad feels Hope you managed to make it outside for fresh air and sunshine?
Curious Yellow: Maybe you could ask for it in the butt next time? (sorry!)
MattRM: If you’re keeping track of pitches/session, it only matters that you know what it means! Hope you’re feeling better.
TinTin: Merry christmas! Sounds like training plan is going well?
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=655192
TonyB: Awesome writeup, I’m inspired. How is the Christmas rest/restraint going? Look forward to hearing how you get on with round 3!
AJM:
Si dH: Congratulations on JT, hard work paying off by the sound of it. Did bouldering after the shoulder massage go ok?
DanDan: Nice work cranking it this week, good to hear injuries are quiet.
Tyler: How’s being North of the border- did you get out on the trails?
Ally Smith: Nice work on the deadlift PB- how is that weight feeling for you (like reasonably heavy or crushingly heavy)? I found that once I went over a certain point with them it took ages to recover and got in the way of climbing.
HMS: Sounds like a taxing week, keep it up! Not surprised you felt wiped out by Sunday.
Biscuit: Sounds like a decent comeback session. How was the run up to xmas?
AJM: Nice progress on back 3. How comprehensive is your benchmarking- are you keeping records for both 5 and 10s, different grips etc or just working on one weakness?
planetmarshall: I hate bouldering circuits in busy gyms, it never works “right” eh. How is/was El Chorro over xmas?
LeeBoy: Sounds like a great week of progress towards your goals!
The Sheep: 3 runs in a week… :-o
Hokkyo: Aww bad feels Hope you managed to make it outside for fresh air and sunshine?
Curious Yellow: Maybe you could ask for it in the butt next time? (sorry!)
MattRM: If you’re keeping track of pitches/session, it only matters that you know what it means! Hope you’re feeling better.
TinTin: Merry christmas! Sounds like training plan is going well?
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy and merry Christmas. Admirable commitment to the fit club cause!
This week I've managed three bouldering short bouldering sessions, I actually feel a bit stronger than I did a couple of weeks ago but I'm still a grade down on my best.
I managed 300 squats in less than 17 mins which is a big improvement (not that I've been trying hard) but another reason why I may not manage a run tomorrow....
Cheers Guy and merry Christmas. Admirable commitment to the fit club cause!
> Tyler: How’s being North of the border- did you get out on the trails
Not yet and I was hoping the weather would give me an excuse not to bother but as Ratho is closed tomorrow and I've forgotten to bring any books I might force myself out. This week I've managed three bouldering short bouldering sessions, I actually feel a bit stronger than I did a couple of weeks ago but I'm still a grade down on my best.
I managed 300 squats in less than 17 mins which is a big improvement (not that I've been trying hard) but another reason why I may not manage a run tomorrow....
In reply to guy127917:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - ??? Scales ran out of batteries, probably fatter...
M - T - Rest
W - 35 routes at wall
T - S - Rest / laziness
Feeling a bit improved, but my asthma has been really poor the past few days. So been feeling proper grim. Need to get some weight off and eat well. It'll make me feel better.
I'd probably be better off measuring distance when doing routes at the wall, but it's equivalent to 280m roughly. Which is a decent wodge in an hour and a half. If I really try 60-70 shouldn't be impossible. Certainly 500m in a session is possible.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - ??? Scales ran out of batteries, probably fatter...
M - T - Rest
W - 35 routes at wall
T - S - Rest / laziness
Feeling a bit improved, but my asthma has been really poor the past few days. So been feeling proper grim. Need to get some weight off and eat well. It'll make me feel better.
I'd probably be better off measuring distance when doing routes at the wall, but it's equivalent to 280m roughly. Which is a decent wodge in an hour and a half. If I really try 60-70 shouldn't be impossible. Certainly 500m in a session is possible.
In reply to mattrm:
You'll become an aerocap monster (technical term...) if you do all that! Does your goal route (I don't know it at all) require any long endurance or good recovery? If not, maybe you could add another goal that does, to take advantage of all that training
You'll become an aerocap monster (technical term...) if you do all that! Does your goal route (I don't know it at all) require any long endurance or good recovery? If not, maybe you could add another goal that does, to take advantage of all that training
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy, Happy Christmas! Like Tyler says, good effort putting the thread up on 25/12.
Yep was pleased with Jerry's on Tuesday. I did go out on Thursday after the massage on Wednesday, was much less achey than the masseuse has warned and didn't feel any increased injury susceptibility, but I also didn't feel that strong, so maybe I'll use it as an excuse!
2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):
- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb (intermediate goal of 11st 3lb by Christmas - managed this - 11st 2lb before going to bed on xmas eve)
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible - so far done Jerry's Traverse (f7B))
- Tetris (f7C)
2017 early spring goals (by end of April):
- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband
M: rest.
T: Cratcliffe for Jerry's Traverse again. Took me a while but I did it Pleased with this as it's been a goal for me for a couple of years now (originally the thinking was it could be a potential first 7B!) and it's also nice that I could do something good while injured. Afterwards we had a play on Ben's Wall at RHS, which didn't seem that desperate, but my toes were numb and I didn't want to fall off from above chest height, so one to come back too.
W: rest and sports massage for shoulders. Felt looser afterwards, don't know if there will be any lasting effect though.
T: Went to Eastwood for a few hours. Relearnt all the moves and felt quite strong on them individually, but was running out of power 3 moves before the end. I really want to save this as 'training' in the spring, but I was lacking ideas for where to go with my heel currently still slightly painful.
F: Fingerboard session, 1 arm hangs. 4x10s on 20mm half-crimp with bw - 13.6kg on each arm, then 4x10s on large pocket 3 finger drag with bw - 6.8kg.
S: Fingerboard sessions in morning and afternoon. Morning was a repeater session, I did 3x 7on/3off with each of the normal 3 hold types. In the evening I did another (short) session, 6 sets of 2 pull-ups with +25kg, all on the 18 mm (aa battery) edge with half-crimp.
S: rest/gluttony. Only nearly exploded twice Fairly proud of my goose cooking skills, we hosted for 5 of us for the first time and it went well.
Overall, since doing Jerry's, none of the individual sessions this week were brilliant, but not terrible either and overall number of sessions was really good, I think being off work definitely gave me more energy!
Injury catalogue: No issues with shoulder or fingers when climbing this week. Felt very minor elbow tweaks, for the first time this year I think, after the Saturday evening fingerboard session. I obviously need to be very careful with weight-on pull-ups. Heel recovery continues slowly.
Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 3 lb. I've done well this week again until Saturday, and I weighed in at 11 st 2 lb on Saturday night. Last night's weight is not being recorded
Question in case anyone missed it last week: I've started using Powerfingers bands as a strengthing tool for my extensors the last few months. I can't decide if they help me but Gresham seems to swear by them. Do any of you use them, when/how, and with any noticeable results?
Si
Thanks Guy, Happy Christmas! Like Tyler says, good effort putting the thread up on 25/12.
Yep was pleased with Jerry's on Tuesday. I did go out on Thursday after the massage on Wednesday, was much less achey than the masseuse has warned and didn't feel any increased injury susceptibility, but I also didn't feel that strong, so maybe I'll use it as an excuse!
2016/17 winter goals (by end of February):
- Reduce weight (measured on a Sunday night) back to 11st 0lb (intermediate goal of 11st 3lb by Christmas - managed this - 11st 2lb before going to bed on xmas eve)
- Do a few grit f7Bs (particularly keen for Suavito, Jerry's Traverse and Spare Rib, but keeping this flexible - so far done Jerry's Traverse (f7B))
- Tetris (f7C)
2017 early spring goals (by end of April):
- Do lots of Font 7s in our trip in early March (target of 10+)
- Do Eastwood Traverse
- Try Powerband
M: rest.
T: Cratcliffe for Jerry's Traverse again. Took me a while but I did it Pleased with this as it's been a goal for me for a couple of years now (originally the thinking was it could be a potential first 7B!) and it's also nice that I could do something good while injured. Afterwards we had a play on Ben's Wall at RHS, which didn't seem that desperate, but my toes were numb and I didn't want to fall off from above chest height, so one to come back too.
W: rest and sports massage for shoulders. Felt looser afterwards, don't know if there will be any lasting effect though.
T: Went to Eastwood for a few hours. Relearnt all the moves and felt quite strong on them individually, but was running out of power 3 moves before the end. I really want to save this as 'training' in the spring, but I was lacking ideas for where to go with my heel currently still slightly painful.
F: Fingerboard session, 1 arm hangs. 4x10s on 20mm half-crimp with bw - 13.6kg on each arm, then 4x10s on large pocket 3 finger drag with bw - 6.8kg.
S: Fingerboard sessions in morning and afternoon. Morning was a repeater session, I did 3x 7on/3off with each of the normal 3 hold types. In the evening I did another (short) session, 6 sets of 2 pull-ups with +25kg, all on the 18 mm (aa battery) edge with half-crimp.
S: rest/gluttony. Only nearly exploded twice Fairly proud of my goose cooking skills, we hosted for 5 of us for the first time and it went well.
Overall, since doing Jerry's, none of the individual sessions this week were brilliant, but not terrible either and overall number of sessions was really good, I think being off work definitely gave me more energy!
Injury catalogue: No issues with shoulder or fingers when climbing this week. Felt very minor elbow tweaks, for the first time this year I think, after the Saturday evening fingerboard session. I obviously need to be very careful with weight-on pull-ups. Heel recovery continues slowly.
Weight last night Sunday night was 11 st 3 lb. I've done well this week again until Saturday, and I weighed in at 11 st 2 lb on Saturday night. Last night's weight is not being recorded
Question in case anyone missed it last week: I've started using Powerfingers bands as a strengthing tool for my extensors the last few months. I can't decide if they help me but Gresham seems to swear by them. Do any of you use them, when/how, and with any noticeable results?
Si
Post edited at 08:25
3
In reply to Si dH:
I can see them being useful as a warming up tool. As for strengthening I'm not so sure. Can you reach failure in under ten reps? That's roughly your strength range.
Reverse wrist curls may be more useful for strength increases. The primary role of the extensors in climbing is wrist stabilisation. Squeeze a fist and your extensors activate, despite it being a flexor activity. The bonus being the more stable the wrist the stronger you can be through your flexors.
They're a bit of a hard thing to measure really. If you don't get lateral epicondyle issues then they're working - aren't they? Or is it something else you are/aren't doing. Difficult to quantify something that isn't happening. But if they don't take long and seem to work then happy days,why not do them might be a better question?
I can see them being useful as a warming up tool. As for strengthening I'm not so sure. Can you reach failure in under ten reps? That's roughly your strength range.
Reverse wrist curls may be more useful for strength increases. The primary role of the extensors in climbing is wrist stabilisation. Squeeze a fist and your extensors activate, despite it being a flexor activity. The bonus being the more stable the wrist the stronger you can be through your flexors.
They're a bit of a hard thing to measure really. If you don't get lateral epicondyle issues then they're working - aren't they? Or is it something else you are/aren't doing. Difficult to quantify something that isn't happening. But if they don't take long and seem to work then happy days,why not do them might be a better question?
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers guy. At the minute I'm just doing back3 primarily because the lattice edge is above my kitchen door and it doesn't require too much weight so its quite convenient. But I intend to work on:
- Back3 10s on the test edge
- Max 5-sec on the test edge (the lattice strength benchmark, obvious challenge)
- 2rm pullups on the fingerboard upstairs (previous benchmarks, felt useful last time too)
- 10s on the beastmaker bottom edge rails (again, previous benchmarks)
- I've got fewer benchmarks for the pockets and I can't hang my beast makers slopers. I'm also going to delay pocket work until I'm sure my hand has recovered.
I'll probably cycle through these a bit, phases of each.
This week was low on quantity but both sessions were high quality. Good wall session, feeling strong, nailed a few this I'd failed on before and progress on some others. Ached for several days afterwards!
Then a Christmas day fingerboard session where I smashed the previous benchmark of 83.4kg with an 86kg hang. I then tried to benchmark to an accurate 10s and found it made less difference than I had thought. Nevertheless 1kg and 4s away from 90kg for a timed 10s so that's another obvious aiming point.
Fingerboard tracker:
- Back3 10s on the test edge [86.0kg new pb]
- Max 5-sec on the test edge [on the old edge 66.8kg]
- 2rm pullups on the old test edge upstairs [101.4kg]
- 10s on the beastmaker bottom edge rails [90.3kg]
> AJM: Nice progress on back 3. How comprehensive is your benchmarking- are you keeping records for both 5 and 10s, different grips etc or just working on one weakness?
Cheers guy. At the minute I'm just doing back3 primarily because the lattice edge is above my kitchen door and it doesn't require too much weight so its quite convenient. But I intend to work on:
- Back3 10s on the test edge
- Max 5-sec on the test edge (the lattice strength benchmark, obvious challenge)
- 2rm pullups on the fingerboard upstairs (previous benchmarks, felt useful last time too)
- 10s on the beastmaker bottom edge rails (again, previous benchmarks)
- I've got fewer benchmarks for the pockets and I can't hang my beast makers slopers. I'm also going to delay pocket work until I'm sure my hand has recovered.
I'll probably cycle through these a bit, phases of each.
This week was low on quantity but both sessions were high quality. Good wall session, feeling strong, nailed a few this I'd failed on before and progress on some others. Ached for several days afterwards!
Then a Christmas day fingerboard session where I smashed the previous benchmark of 83.4kg with an 86kg hang. I then tried to benchmark to an accurate 10s and found it made less difference than I had thought. Nevertheless 1kg and 4s away from 90kg for a timed 10s so that's another obvious aiming point.
Fingerboard tracker:
- Back3 10s on the test edge [86.0kg new pb]
- Max 5-sec on the test edge [on the old edge 66.8kg]
- 2rm pullups on the old test edge upstairs [101.4kg]
- 10s on the beastmaker bottom edge rails [90.3kg]
1
In reply to biscuit:
With the higher resistance bands, especially in multiples ie two bands together, it's hard to do even 1 rep, so yes. It's important to warm up for this by doing multiple reps with a light resistance one first, I've found.
I confess I'm sceptical about this. In order to reduce muscle imbalances, I want to be able to train my extensors without simultaneously training flexors - otherwise the imbalance will surely increase?
This is the approach I'm currently taking...fingers crossed it'll work!
> I can see them being useful as a warming up tool. As for strengthening I'm not so sure. Can you reach failure in under ten reps? That's roughly your strength range.
With the higher resistance bands, especially in multiples ie two bands together, it's hard to do even 1 rep, so yes. It's important to warm up for this by doing multiple reps with a light resistance one first, I've found.
> Reverse wrist curls may be more useful for strength increases. The primary role of the extensors in climbing is wrist stabilisation. Squeeze a fist and your extensors activate, despite it being a flexor activity. The bonus being the more stable the wrist the stronger you can be through your flexors.
I confess I'm sceptical about this. In order to reduce muscle imbalances, I want to be able to train my extensors without simultaneously training flexors - otherwise the imbalance will surely increase?
> They're a bit of a hard thing to measure really. If you don't get lateral epicondyle issues then they're working - aren't they? Or is it something else you are/aren't doing. Difficult to quantify something that isn't happening. But if they don't take long and seem to work then happy days,why not do them might be a better question?
This is the approach I'm currently taking...fingers crossed it'll work!
In reply to Si dH:
I didn't realise they were that strong. Could well be good then.
Gripping a fairly light weight (relatively) for a reverse wrist curl isn't going to do much for your flexors. I bet your extensors would tire before your grip does. I'm sceptical you can ever balance the two. Just day to day stuff involves flexors more than extensors. As for climbing! I'm pretty certain we've all got imbalanced flexors/extensors. My external rotators are much weaker than my internal rotators. They just need to be strong enough to do their job - stabilisation if we're talking injury prevention. Same for extensors and the wrist. Why have I got medial epicondyalgia? It's certainly not because my extensors are stronger than my flexors.
All that said strengthening extensors (like strengthening rotator cuff muscles) is never going to be a bad thing. If it only takes a few minutes then it makes sense to me. It'll be good to hear how you get on.
I didn't realise they were that strong. Could well be good then.
Gripping a fairly light weight (relatively) for a reverse wrist curl isn't going to do much for your flexors. I bet your extensors would tire before your grip does. I'm sceptical you can ever balance the two. Just day to day stuff involves flexors more than extensors. As for climbing! I'm pretty certain we've all got imbalanced flexors/extensors. My external rotators are much weaker than my internal rotators. They just need to be strong enough to do their job - stabilisation if we're talking injury prevention. Same for extensors and the wrist. Why have I got medial epicondyalgia? It's certainly not because my extensors are stronger than my flexors.
All that said strengthening extensors (like strengthening rotator cuff muscles) is never going to be a bad thing. If it only takes a few minutes then it makes sense to me. It'll be good to hear how you get on.
Post edited at 10:08
In reply to Si dH:
Good effort on Jerry's!
Lots of climbing week, after doing virtually nothing active the week before.
M-the climbing academy Bristol. What an excellent wall they've got down there, so much training space. Are and drank loads in the evening.
T-the climbing academy again.
W- BBC indoors for a quick blast of the new circuit.
T-Cromlech. Had a play on the moves of Mr fantastic. Surprised myself and did the crux relatively easily. I then did it from the jug on jerrys and topped out. Worked out the starting moves a bit and then headed home to save it for another day. Surprised myself to feel so comfortable on the crux.
F-Rest
S-parisellas. Warmed up by climbing left wall high from various start points. I then moved onto the cave life arch move a couple of times. After which I managed The Highlife (V10). Was pretty pumped on the jugs at the end! This would certainly be my hardest piece of 'sport-like' climbing. Anyway, there's still hundreds of links left in the cave to keep building up the numbers.
S-nothing!
Good effort on Jerry's!
Lots of climbing week, after doing virtually nothing active the week before.
M-the climbing academy Bristol. What an excellent wall they've got down there, so much training space. Are and drank loads in the evening.
T-the climbing academy again.
W- BBC indoors for a quick blast of the new circuit.
T-Cromlech. Had a play on the moves of Mr fantastic. Surprised myself and did the crux relatively easily. I then did it from the jug on jerrys and topped out. Worked out the starting moves a bit and then headed home to save it for another day. Surprised myself to feel so comfortable on the crux.
F-Rest
S-parisellas. Warmed up by climbing left wall high from various start points. I then moved onto the cave life arch move a couple of times. After which I managed The Highlife (V10). Was pretty pumped on the jugs at the end! This would certainly be my hardest piece of 'sport-like' climbing. Anyway, there's still hundreds of links left in the cave to keep building up the numbers.
S-nothing!
Post edited at 10:02
In reply to guy127917:
Not sure where the days went this week!
Managed a 2km swim on Monday, 35 minutes so a good time for me. Probably the last swim as I'm off work until the new year.
Tuesday was a night run, 6.5km in 39 minutes so quite happy.
Christmas Eve was a 5.3 trundle round the village, 32.11 minutes.
Goals for next year are;
Cycling, 3000 km
Swimming, 150 km
Running, 300 km
Plus climb more and work on diving skills
Not sure where the days went this week!
Managed a 2km swim on Monday, 35 minutes so a good time for me. Probably the last swim as I'm off work until the new year.
Tuesday was a night run, 6.5km in 39 minutes so quite happy.
Christmas Eve was a 5.3 trundle round the village, 32.11 minutes.
Goals for next year are;
Cycling, 3000 km
Swimming, 150 km
Running, 300 km
Plus climb more and work on diving skills
2
In reply to guy127917:
thanks Guy. This week just gone was supposedly an easier transition week, which I promptly made harder by putting in an extra fun session & getting a steal on next week's plan. Better hadn't let on to the coach!
M - cycle commute. Yoga - more balance.
T - cycle commute. Max hangs. Took a while to find the appropriate weight, then max hangs on lower BM1000 edges with +17.5kg.
W - cycle commute. Strength stuff.
T - cycle commute. Home via UCR - 1on 2off circuits x 10, too short a rest then 10min on, 10min off x 3. Got pumped on these, just like I'm not supposed to, and felt wiped out at the end.
F - home bimbling. Sore throat. Stretching in evening.
S - UCR routes in pairs. OS of 7a, then failed trying to repeat umpteen other 7as. Felt distinctly out of power & not terribly well.
S - 1on 1off fingerboard whilst cooking the Christmas meal. 2 mile walk in afternoon, strength stuff in evening.
this next weeks plan looks horrendous, may struggle to fit it all in, esp as the weighted hangs have a rest day before & after.
thanks Guy. This week just gone was supposedly an easier transition week, which I promptly made harder by putting in an extra fun session & getting a steal on next week's plan. Better hadn't let on to the coach!
M - cycle commute. Yoga - more balance.
T - cycle commute. Max hangs. Took a while to find the appropriate weight, then max hangs on lower BM1000 edges with +17.5kg.
W - cycle commute. Strength stuff.
T - cycle commute. Home via UCR - 1on 2off circuits x 10, too short a rest then 10min on, 10min off x 3. Got pumped on these, just like I'm not supposed to, and felt wiped out at the end.
F - home bimbling. Sore throat. Stretching in evening.
S - UCR routes in pairs. OS of 7a, then failed trying to repeat umpteen other 7as. Felt distinctly out of power & not terribly well.
S - 1on 1off fingerboard whilst cooking the Christmas meal. 2 mile walk in afternoon, strength stuff in evening.
this next weeks plan looks horrendous, may struggle to fit it all in, esp as the weighted hangs have a rest day before & after.
Post edited at 16:23
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy,
Not a lot for me this week. Two sessions at the wall. THe first I did most of the new V3-4 circuit, followed by fingerboard recruitment, followed by 3x double laps 7a+ into 6c+, followed by 3x double laps 6c+ into 6c+. I hadn't planned to do the circuit, but it was just set and couldn't resist it. The second session was the same (but without the circuit).
I also put up my new lattice fingerboard and gave it a quick go. I didn't warm up brilliantly, so I didn't want to push it, but I was surprised at how much assistance I needed. Probably with a bit of chalk and when it's bedded in a bit, it might be easier. I didn't get very close to where I placed on my lattice test. It's all good as it'll be work in progress for next year.
Goals for this week.
1 fingerboard session - gentle
travel to El Chorro and redpoint 8a!
Thanks Guy,
Not a lot for me this week. Two sessions at the wall. THe first I did most of the new V3-4 circuit, followed by fingerboard recruitment, followed by 3x double laps 7a+ into 6c+, followed by 3x double laps 6c+ into 6c+. I hadn't planned to do the circuit, but it was just set and couldn't resist it. The second session was the same (but without the circuit).
I also put up my new lattice fingerboard and gave it a quick go. I didn't warm up brilliantly, so I didn't want to push it, but I was surprised at how much assistance I needed. Probably with a bit of chalk and when it's bedded in a bit, it might be easier. I didn't get very close to where I placed on my lattice test. It's all good as it'll be work in progress for next year.
Goals for this week.
1 fingerboard session - gentle
travel to El Chorro and redpoint 8a!
> Goals for this week.
> 1 fingerboard session - gentle
> travel to El Chorro and redpoint 8a!
Best weekly goal I've seen in a long time. I can't wait to hear how the gentle fingerboard session goes
2
In reply to biscuit:
Well I don't want to keep you in suspense, I did the gentle fingerboard session last night and it was, err, uneventful.
> Best weekly goal I've seen in a long time. I can't wait to hear how the gentle fingerboard session goes
Well I don't want to keep you in suspense, I did the gentle fingerboard session last night and it was, err, uneventful.
5
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, Merry Crimblebob everyone!
I finally succumbed to the seasonal lurgy this week so I had a quiet mid week, but I think it's my only cold/flu this year so I can't complain about that.
M: Nothing
T: Indoor boulder; long problem, 4 reps with 2.5min rest. 1.5 sets. I set my own problem for this which was a welcome change from the same old problem I had been using. Failed in last reps so it was about the right level.
W - F: Lurgy
S: Fingerboard; moved weighted pullups to 18mm AA edge, still managed +45kg, pleased with that! 7/3 hangs at +14kg, 4 sets of 6. Getting stronger....
Also popped to Portland as we were in the area from visiting friends the night before but the wind was not conducive to a good session, plus we had the dog with us, she hates hanging out at the crag so the whingeing was offputting. Had an early bath after 2 super easy warmups, never mind.
S: Presents!
That's it, more of the same this week coming, minus the lurgy. Hope to get out on Thursday, minus the moany pup!
Last Weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK
Repeat purple V8 - FAIL, lurgy
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni - FAIL
Get outside this week - TICK, sort of
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
All sessions on plan -
Get outside this week -
MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going very well
Get outside if weather allows - 2
Tick another 7c/7c+ outside -
LTG: (next Year)
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
Cheers Guy, Merry Crimblebob everyone!
I finally succumbed to the seasonal lurgy this week so I had a quiet mid week, but I think it's my only cold/flu this year so I can't complain about that.
M: Nothing
T: Indoor boulder; long problem, 4 reps with 2.5min rest. 1.5 sets. I set my own problem for this which was a welcome change from the same old problem I had been using. Failed in last reps so it was about the right level.
W - F: Lurgy
S: Fingerboard; moved weighted pullups to 18mm AA edge, still managed +45kg, pleased with that! 7/3 hangs at +14kg, 4 sets of 6. Getting stronger....
Also popped to Portland as we were in the area from visiting friends the night before but the wind was not conducive to a good session, plus we had the dog with us, she hates hanging out at the crag so the whingeing was offputting. Had an early bath after 2 super easy warmups, never mind.
S: Presents!
That's it, more of the same this week coming, minus the lurgy. Hope to get out on Thursday, minus the moany pup!
Last Weeks STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session - TICK
Repeat purple V8 - FAIL, lurgy
Tick the new 7c at Warwick Uni - FAIL
Get outside this week - TICK, sort of
New STG:
Stretch hamstrings every session -
All sessions on plan -
Get outside this week -
MTG: (this year)
Remain uninjured to allow me follow through Tom's plan - Going very well
Get outside if weather allows - 2
Tick another 7c/7c+ outside -
LTG: (next Year)
8a+
Pull on to Photo Shot (8b)
Re-test on the Lattice board, booked in for Feb, hoping for 100 moves max
In reply to Dandan:
That's really strong Dan - tell me why you aren't climbing 8b and probably 8A too?!?
> S: Fingerboard; moved weighted pullups to 18mm AA edge, still managed +45kg, pleased with that! 7/3 hangs at +14kg, 4 sets of 6. Getting stronger....
That's really strong Dan - tell me why you aren't climbing 8b and probably 8A too?!?
1
In reply to guy127917: Hi, all, decided to rejoin Fit Club, assuming i am allowed. Just had an enforced break at the end of a difficult year. My climbing this year has been affected by big stuff going on-sudden death of my mum, issues at college and a busy job, having said that I have managed two 7a+'s without sieging them and have just noticed that one of the 7a's i ticked has been upgraded to 7b in the new South Wales Sports guide, which is twaddle-this is a bit of a highpoint in my sports climbing.
I have been off since October with a damaged shoulder-not warming up on a cold day at Cheddar on a route at my limit-Get that Man. No noticeable pain at the time just did not feel right so I stopped and within half an hour could barely move my arm. MRI showed badly strained but not snapped supra/infra spinatus, been rehabbing, resting and now strengthening shoulders and just ready to go back to rock/wall.
What I need to do right now is a high volume of low intensity climbing so will be posting looking for Undercover Rock partner over next few weeks, my current goals would be to do a proper 7b before the summer, be able to look at myself as a 7a climber which I cant right now and get some form of a trad head together by end of the summer-not quite sure how mixing sport and trad might work out but feel like I need to give it a go.
So aims for this week are to get on a rope, run twice, keep up a thirty day core program I have started and not stuff shoulder whilst coming back.
Here goes, onwards and upwards.
Rich
I have been off since October with a damaged shoulder-not warming up on a cold day at Cheddar on a route at my limit-Get that Man. No noticeable pain at the time just did not feel right so I stopped and within half an hour could barely move my arm. MRI showed badly strained but not snapped supra/infra spinatus, been rehabbing, resting and now strengthening shoulders and just ready to go back to rock/wall.
What I need to do right now is a high volume of low intensity climbing so will be posting looking for Undercover Rock partner over next few weeks, my current goals would be to do a proper 7b before the summer, be able to look at myself as a 7a climber which I cant right now and get some form of a trad head together by end of the summer-not quite sure how mixing sport and trad might work out but feel like I need to give it a go.
So aims for this week are to get on a rope, run twice, keep up a thirty day core program I have started and not stuff shoulder whilst coming back.
Here goes, onwards and upwards.
Rich
In reply to Solsbury:
Welcome back! Sounds like you've had a tough time- sorry to hear about your mum. You've got a nice goal set for the year ahead, and concrete aims for the week- I look forward to hearing about some solid progress :-D
Welcome back! Sounds like you've had a tough time- sorry to hear about your mum. You've got a nice goal set for the year ahead, and concrete aims for the week- I look forward to hearing about some solid progress :-D
In reply to guy127917:
Right I need to to update, I haven't done it for the last 2 or 3 weeks *embarrassed face*. I had 2 weeks after returning from Spain of rest/transition type stuff, just getting ready for next period of training. Last week was really week 1 of the first mesocycle. Main focus is on strength, and building the hours cardio up. I've also been having some elbow issues which was diagnosed as brachioradialis strain. I've got a few remedial stretches and antagonists to do, but will have to lay off power-y moves and weighted pullups for about a month.
M: Rest
T: 50 minute run, 0.5 AeroCap warmup, 1 hour limit bouldering, max hangs test (20mm BM1000 edge)- 5s limit was BW+35kg (108kg). Tried weights upto +50kg which I could do for about 2s. I think doing this test again earlier in a session would show immediate improvement. My current max 2RM pullup on jugs is +30kg, haven't tried with the AA battery in the deep 4 finger pocket but interested to try...
W: Foot on ladders medium rungs, 40s on, 60s off x 3 x 3 (5 minutes set rest).
T: 0.5 hours AeroCap warmup, 45s on 90s off Intervals x3 x4 (on a laughably easy 7a set), Max Hangs 5s/10sx4x3
F 0.5 hours strength at the gym, front squats, bench press and deadlifts, 0.5 hours core
Sa: 1:10 hour run
Sunday: 5 mile walk but mainly eating
My main STG's are:
* Forearm stretches every day
* Track diet daily
* 3 hours running
* First outdoor V3 at the weekend? (Mainly just have fun getting into grit bouldering!)
Medium Short Term Todo List:
* Have coaching session(s) to investigate technical weakeness
* Consult sports nutritionist to try and get my shitty diet under control
Right I need to to update, I haven't done it for the last 2 or 3 weeks *embarrassed face*. I had 2 weeks after returning from Spain of rest/transition type stuff, just getting ready for next period of training. Last week was really week 1 of the first mesocycle. Main focus is on strength, and building the hours cardio up. I've also been having some elbow issues which was diagnosed as brachioradialis strain. I've got a few remedial stretches and antagonists to do, but will have to lay off power-y moves and weighted pullups for about a month.
M: Rest
T: 50 minute run, 0.5 AeroCap warmup, 1 hour limit bouldering, max hangs test (20mm BM1000 edge)- 5s limit was BW+35kg (108kg). Tried weights upto +50kg which I could do for about 2s. I think doing this test again earlier in a session would show immediate improvement. My current max 2RM pullup on jugs is +30kg, haven't tried with the AA battery in the deep 4 finger pocket but interested to try...
W: Foot on ladders medium rungs, 40s on, 60s off x 3 x 3 (5 minutes set rest).
T: 0.5 hours AeroCap warmup, 45s on 90s off Intervals x3 x4 (on a laughably easy 7a set), Max Hangs 5s/10sx4x3
F 0.5 hours strength at the gym, front squats, bench press and deadlifts, 0.5 hours core
Sa: 1:10 hour run
Sunday: 5 mile walk but mainly eating
My main STG's are:
* Forearm stretches every day
* Track diet daily
* 3 hours running
* First outdoor V3 at the weekend? (Mainly just have fun getting into grit bouldering!)
Medium Short Term Todo List:
* Have coaching session(s) to investigate technical weakeness
* Consult sports nutritionist to try and get my shitty diet under control
1
In reply to TonyB:
Hopefully you will report back next week with the 8a. I am then going to use it as proof of how I should train. A gentle fingerboard sesh then smash out 8a.
Good luck!
Hopefully you will report back next week with the 8a. I am then going to use it as proof of how I should train. A gentle fingerboard sesh then smash out 8a.
Good luck!
In reply to guy127917:
91kg felt pretty heavy, and the DOMS was fairly long lasting, so happy to reign it in for a while until my ski-trip is done and dusted, hence i've done a deadlift session that was much higher reps this week, which didn't give me any DOMS.
Week 52:
M - Rest, stretch, eccentrics & armaid, i.e. an early night
T - The Meaning of Life? = 42 = 6x >F7A = good come-back lantern session in Parisella’s Cave Core felt properly worked – a very different kind of beasting than climbing on a board.
W - Rushed lifting session. 4x12 DL@55kg. 3x10 OHP@35kg (getting easier). 3x20 IR@35kg.
T - Boardroom – Boulder warm-up, then a brief spanking trying the “6B+ warm-up” problem on the Moon Board, moving swiftly on to a Lattice self-assessment. New PB in term of moves (113) and time (305s), but a woeful decay curve highlighting my lack of both aero and an-cap. Pretty sore all over, but not isolated to elbows, which is progress.
F - 14kg hammer curl eccentrics & 4x12OHP@32.5kg, then chaos reigned with friends visiting with their 3yr old & 2x 3mth old girls!
S - I was going to do some climbing, but felt pretty whacked and hence drove home to the start of some Chrissy gluttony.
S - 36km road biking in 90min & 3x20 14kg hammer curl eccentrics (neither of my brothers could manage a single rep - weaklings!) & weighted sit-ups to get appetite for lunch.
Weight this morning 76.7 kg & 6.8% BF
STG – this week:
At least 3 rehab sessions – eccentrics & armaid
Fingerboard session
MTG – end of Dec:
Deadlift 1RM bodyweight with good form – done; new goal 90kg – done - onwards to 100kg!
Record benchmarks for finger-strength and fitness, ideally on a lattice board at The Boardroom (done - now compare to FoC to benchmark?)
Make training plan(s) for Chulilla in late Feb, and onwards to peaking in June/July for Kilnsey project
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options
LTG – end 2017:
8b in Chulilla in Feb.
The Wire, Parisella’s Cave.
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
> Ally Smith: Nice work on the deadlift PB - how is that weight feeling for you (like reasonably heavy or crushingly heavy)? I found that once I went over a certain point with them it took ages to recover and got in the way of climbing.
91kg felt pretty heavy, and the DOMS was fairly long lasting, so happy to reign it in for a while until my ski-trip is done and dusted, hence i've done a deadlift session that was much higher reps this week, which didn't give me any DOMS.
Week 52:
M - Rest, stretch, eccentrics & armaid, i.e. an early night
T - The Meaning of Life? = 42 = 6x >F7A = good come-back lantern session in Parisella’s Cave Core felt properly worked – a very different kind of beasting than climbing on a board.
W - Rushed lifting session. 4x12 DL@55kg. 3x10 OHP@35kg (getting easier). 3x20 IR@35kg.
T - Boardroom – Boulder warm-up, then a brief spanking trying the “6B+ warm-up” problem on the Moon Board, moving swiftly on to a Lattice self-assessment. New PB in term of moves (113) and time (305s), but a woeful decay curve highlighting my lack of both aero and an-cap. Pretty sore all over, but not isolated to elbows, which is progress.
F - 14kg hammer curl eccentrics & 4x12OHP@32.5kg, then chaos reigned with friends visiting with their 3yr old & 2x 3mth old girls!
S - I was going to do some climbing, but felt pretty whacked and hence drove home to the start of some Chrissy gluttony.
S - 36km road biking in 90min & 3x20 14kg hammer curl eccentrics (neither of my brothers could manage a single rep - weaklings!) & weighted sit-ups to get appetite for lunch.
Weight this morning 76.7 kg & 6.8% BF
STG – this week:
At least 3 rehab sessions – eccentrics & armaid
Fingerboard session
MTG – end of Dec:
Deadlift 1RM bodyweight with good form – done; new goal 90kg – done - onwards to 100kg!
Record benchmarks for finger-strength and fitness, ideally on a lattice board at The Boardroom (done - now compare to FoC to benchmark?)
Make training plan(s) for Chulilla in late Feb, and onwards to peaking in June/July for Kilnsey project
Put extra bolt in Malham route – Baba O’Riley, and investigate other FA options
LTG – end 2017:
8b in Chulilla in Feb.
The Wire, Parisella’s Cave.
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy
Hope everyone had a good Christmas
Pretty poor week for me last week really. Also to top it off I really overate.
Just a quick post this week. I am going to start concentrating more on my legs now as I am in Scotland for 2 weeks in February so trying to build leg strength
M - Rest
T - Indoor climbing
W - Rest
T - walking 17 miles 2000m of accent
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Rest
Happy Training
Lee
Thanks Guy
Hope everyone had a good Christmas
Pretty poor week for me last week really. Also to top it off I really overate.
Just a quick post this week. I am going to start concentrating more on my legs now as I am in Scotland for 2 weeks in February so trying to build leg strength
M - Rest
T - Indoor climbing
W - Rest
T - walking 17 miles 2000m of accent
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Rest
Happy Training
Lee
In reply to guy127917:
Merry Christmas, Guy (and fitclub). A great weekend in El Chorro, although a bit mixed goals-wise. The physical training I've been doing has basically highlighted what I've really known all along - the main obstacle to me climbing harder stuff is mental, and not really physical. I'm strong enough, and I can recover quickly, but I just can't push myself to try harder, so I have a new objective for 2017.
Thu. Flew to Malaga. Cockup with the car rental process meant I couldn't get a car, so found a last minute hotel room and stayed in Malaga for the night.
Fri. Train to El Chorro, then nice warm up hike from the station up to the Olive Branch with about 30kg of gear. Climbed Welcome to El Chorro (5c) (O/S)
Sat. Back to Frontales with Ville, had a go at the first pitch of Frente Popular de Judea (6c+), got completely shut down by the crux which I eventually had to aid. Had a go at Irmchen (6a+) and had a pointless rest on the ropes wasting the O/S. Things not going well at this point.
Sun. Escalera Arabe with Derek. A better day. Onsights of Bladerunner (6a) and Sergio y Antonio (6a). Had a go at El Canalillo de la Mari (6b+) and surprised myself by getting the Onsight - my second at the grade, and first outside Kaly. The difference actually warming up makes....
STG - Back to training, though won't be able to squeeze in much before New Year. 1 Bouldering session and that's probably it.
MTG - Winter 2016-2017. Redpoint a 6c (Possibly Life is Sweet (6c)?). Now looking to go back to Makinodromo in February to do this. Tried it on Monday and it's definitely in me if I can just sort my head out. Speaking of which... sort my sport climbing head out. If I can lead Kayak (E2 5b) and The Pause (E1 5b), why can't I push myself on Sport climbs?
LTG - 2017
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Innominata Ridge (D+)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) - Solo
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Trela (7a)
BHAG - Beyond 2017
Archangel (E3 5b)
London Wall (E5 6a)
Right Wall (E5 6a)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Octopus Crack (7b+)
US Road Trip
El Cap
New routes in Scotland
New routes in Alaska
> planetmarshall: I hate bouldering circuits in busy gyms, it never works “right” eh. How is/was El Chorro over xmas?
Merry Christmas, Guy (and fitclub). A great weekend in El Chorro, although a bit mixed goals-wise. The physical training I've been doing has basically highlighted what I've really known all along - the main obstacle to me climbing harder stuff is mental, and not really physical. I'm strong enough, and I can recover quickly, but I just can't push myself to try harder, so I have a new objective for 2017.
Thu. Flew to Malaga. Cockup with the car rental process meant I couldn't get a car, so found a last minute hotel room and stayed in Malaga for the night.
Fri. Train to El Chorro, then nice warm up hike from the station up to the Olive Branch with about 30kg of gear. Climbed Welcome to El Chorro (5c) (O/S)
Sat. Back to Frontales with Ville, had a go at the first pitch of Frente Popular de Judea (6c+), got completely shut down by the crux which I eventually had to aid. Had a go at Irmchen (6a+) and had a pointless rest on the ropes wasting the O/S. Things not going well at this point.
Sun. Escalera Arabe with Derek. A better day. Onsights of Bladerunner (6a) and Sergio y Antonio (6a). Had a go at El Canalillo de la Mari (6b+) and surprised myself by getting the Onsight - my second at the grade, and first outside Kaly. The difference actually warming up makes....
STG - Back to training, though won't be able to squeeze in much before New Year. 1 Bouldering session and that's probably it.
MTG - Winter 2016-2017. Redpoint a 6c (Possibly Life is Sweet (6c)?). Now looking to go back to Makinodromo in February to do this. Tried it on Monday and it's definitely in me if I can just sort my head out. Speaking of which... sort my sport climbing head out. If I can lead Kayak (E2 5b) and The Pause (E1 5b), why can't I push myself on Sport climbs?
LTG - 2017
Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c)
Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b)
Regent Street (E2 5c)
Steeple (E2 5c)
Shibboleth (E2 5c)
Innominata Ridge (D+)
Cuillin Ridge Traverse (Summer) (VD) - Solo
Kami-kaze (Winter) (VI 7)
Trela (7a)
BHAG - Beyond 2017
Archangel (E3 5b)
London Wall (E5 6a)
Right Wall (E5 6a)
Sundance (Winter) (VIII 8)
The 1938 Route (ED2)
Octopus Crack (7b+)
US Road Trip
El Cap
New routes in Scotland
New routes in Alaska
Post edited at 12:02
In reply to guy127917:
Is anyone able to take over posting for this weekend- I'll be away in the van so posting will be tricky. In general I'm looking to hand over the FC baton at some point in the near future if anyone is interested?
Is anyone able to take over posting for this weekend- I'll be away in the van so posting will be tricky. In general I'm looking to hand over the FC baton at some point in the near future if anyone is interested?
In reply to Si dH:
Cheers Si, it's definitely my *ahem* strong point, if only the rest of my climbing abilities were up there...
In all honesty I think the reason I'm not hitting those big grades is lack of access/exposure to those kinds of routes. I'm not complaining, it is what it is and I'll hit the big numbers eventually, but I'd say thats the biggest reason why I have yet to do so.
Tell you what though, I may have Uber fingers, but I can still only boulder V8+ indoors and never seem to be able to go beyond that, if I ever did boulder outside, I can't imagine hitting 8A...
Cheers Si, it's definitely my *ahem* strong point, if only the rest of my climbing abilities were up there...
In all honesty I think the reason I'm not hitting those big grades is lack of access/exposure to those kinds of routes. I'm not complaining, it is what it is and I'll hit the big numbers eventually, but I'd say thats the biggest reason why I have yet to do so.
Tell you what though, I may have Uber fingers, but I can still only boulder V8+ indoors and never seem to be able to go beyond that, if I ever did boulder outside, I can't imagine hitting 8A...
In reply to guy127917:
This weekend I can do.
After that, I don't know - I don't want to commit to anything until I know what this whole parenting thing is going to be like
This weekend I can do.
After that, I don't know - I don't want to commit to anything until I know what this whole parenting thing is going to be like
1
In reply to Dandan:
I've never bouldered V8+ indoors; V6/7 max, so I can't see why 8A shouldn't be possible for you outside mit ihrem uber finger kraft!
> Tell you what though, I may have Uber fingers, but I can still only boulder V8+ indoors and never seem to be able to go beyond that, if I ever did boulder outside, I can't imagine hitting 8A...
I've never bouldered V8+ indoors; V6/7 max, so I can't see why 8A shouldn't be possible for you outside mit ihrem uber finger kraft!
Post edited at 09:13
1
In reply to planetmarshall:
> Cockup with the car rental process meant I couldn't get a car, so found a last minute hotel room and stayed in Malaga for the night.
That's unfortunate. What was the problem, knowing my prevent the rest of us falling foul?In reply to Tyler:
Self inflicted unfortunately. I lost my licence photocard and they wouldn't accept an alternative.
Self inflicted unfortunately. I lost my licence photocard and they wouldn't accept an alternative.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Eek, one of my big worries when going on hols. Lucky El Chorro was the chosen destination!
Eek, one of my big worries when going on hols. Lucky El Chorro was the chosen destination!
In reply to Tyler:
Yep, though I wasn't able to make it to Desplomilandia this time unfortunately. Looking forward to a return visit, hopefully in February if work permits and Scottish Winter fails to make an appearance.
> Eek, one of my big worries when going on hols. Lucky El Chorro was the chosen destination!
Yep, though I wasn't able to make it to Desplomilandia this time unfortunately. Looking forward to a return visit, hopefully in February if work permits and Scottish Winter fails to make an appearance.
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
The run up to Xmas was rubbish from a climbing point of view, but very nice from a drinking/eating too much point of view.
Nothing done all week apart from one token run of about 5 miles just so I didn't feel quite so bad about the calories in/calories out ratio.
Cheers Guy.
The run up to Xmas was rubbish from a climbing point of view, but very nice from a drinking/eating too much point of view.
Nothing done all week apart from one token run of about 5 miles just so I didn't feel quite so bad about the calories in/calories out ratio.
In reply to guy127917:
I forgot to post for a few weeks, but I made a lot of progress climbing-wise. Had too much work to do, so only climbed and didn't do any cardio or strength training.
First I lead climbed my first full route, an easy n4. Did some fall training to lose the fear of falling on lead. Lead climbed my first n5 (F5b), and top-roped another n5 on the biggest indoor wall I've been on so far (14 meters). I've attempted an n5+ (F5c) two or three times, but every time I've either burned myself out on other routes, or something annoying stops me from sending it. Last time it was because my belayer was a bit nervous and didn't give me enough slack for the crux move. I'll get it next week.
For bouldering I've been doing really well. Went from only being able to do f4 indoors, to now regularly flashing f5s and even onsighted an f6a on the highest bouldering wall. Went outside and climbed some hilariously small boulders in minus degrees too, going to do that going forward instead of being indoors I think.
I forgot to post for a few weeks, but I made a lot of progress climbing-wise. Had too much work to do, so only climbed and didn't do any cardio or strength training.
First I lead climbed my first full route, an easy n4. Did some fall training to lose the fear of falling on lead. Lead climbed my first n5 (F5b), and top-roped another n5 on the biggest indoor wall I've been on so far (14 meters). I've attempted an n5+ (F5c) two or three times, but every time I've either burned myself out on other routes, or something annoying stops me from sending it. Last time it was because my belayer was a bit nervous and didn't give me enough slack for the crux move. I'll get it next week.
For bouldering I've been doing really well. Went from only being able to do f4 indoors, to now regularly flashing f5s and even onsighted an f6a on the highest bouldering wall. Went outside and climbed some hilariously small boulders in minus degrees too, going to do that going forward instead of being indoors I think.
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Was on catch up last week so may have trained too hard to close to this trip and forgot to taper...now in Mallorca at least!
M - F 2 x linked boulders, core, max conditioning, campus, 2 x CapPow, recruitment sets.
S - S family Christmas stuff
Happy new year!
Thanks Guy. Was on catch up last week so may have trained too hard to close to this trip and forgot to taper...now in Mallorca at least!
M - F 2 x linked boulders, core, max conditioning, campus, 2 x CapPow, recruitment sets.
S - S family Christmas stuff
Happy new year!
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