In reply to CurlyStevo:
> Do you have a link regarding this?
No, I'm afraid not off-hand, but I've read about this tactic several times, I'll try and find a link. It
might also have been seen in the Ondra documentary 'The Wizard's Apprentice', but I can't quite remember. Maybe someone else can confirm.
> If this is considered to be essential (rather than just stick clipping the first couple of bolts etc) then why was it considered cheating for Dave Macleoud to climb up the first 5 or 6 bolts of that F9a and then return to the ground before continuing?
I wouldn't say it's "essential". I think, as was mentioned on another thread recently, it's more of a trad thing that has been used fairly widely. Having said that, I've belayed Dave a few times on hard sport routes too when he climbed up the first couple of bolts, clipped them then down-climbed to rest before the giving it a redpoint shot. Some people took exception to this strategy which he apparently used on A Muerte; for what reason, I don't know.
Edit: just found this which is interesting:
https://www.8a.nu/?IncPage=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.8a.nu%2Fforum%2FViewForumThrea...
In his opinion, Ondra states only clipping the first bolt is 'legit'. Unfortunately, it doesn't make reference to climbing initially to pre-clip, then downclimbing.
Post edited at 13:21