UKC

Angus Kille has freed El Niño, a 2,500 foot 5.13b/c (8a+) route on El Capitan, Yosemite.

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Well done Angus, mega scenes from the Brits in the Valley this autumn!

Now we just have to wait and see how Franco gets on with the Dawn Wall

Inspiring news from the valley! Congratulations

Re Leo "onsighting every pitch except the first two", is that correct or did you mean the final two?

He grabbed a quick draw on the second pitch on his on sight attempt I think or something like that. 

I know it's a bit anoraky  but it would be good to get some clarification on this. The first two pitches are only 5.6 and 5.9. It's pitches 3-5 which are 5.13+ and absolutely nails.

E

I think it’s covered in the factor 2 podcasts here…Patch Hammond mentioned it in his interview.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/podcasts/series/factor_two_-_s2/ep5_pat...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/podcasts/series/factor_two_-_s2/ep4_no_...

In Leo's own words, from his book. El Nino - 1 fall. 

Leo did a nice write up of his ascent in the Alpine Journal, which is freely available here https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2002_files/AJ%202002%205...

In short, he grabbed a quickdraw on the first 13b pitch to avoid a big fall. Lowered off and did it next go. He also pulled on the first draw of the second hard pitch to chalk and inspect some holds.

Thanks for that. The first two hard pitches; that makes more sense!