UKC

Dave Flanagan, author of new bouldering skills book Bouldering Essentials, shares some tips for tackling tricky top-outs...

The process of getting established on the top of a problem is known as topping out. At the gym you usually jump or downclimb from the final holds, but at most outdoor areas a problem isn't considered finished until you are standing on top of the boulder or cliff. Topping out by definition is the final act of climbing a problem. You are often pumped and high off the ground so it isn't the ideal time to experiment with the finer points of technique. Many climbers struggle on top outs, especially those who has haven't much experience bouldering outdoors.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6849

In reply to UKC Articles:

That pylon is at a funny angle.

In reply to simes303:

That's how we build them over here.

In reply to UKC Articles:

You forgot to mention the time honoured "beached whale" technique, although the pictures in the heel hook version come close.

CB

In reply to simes303:


I beg your pardon!

In reply to UKC Articles:


And this would be a good thing because ... ?

In reply to cb294:

I mentioned them at the end. I think for a proper full on beached whale effect you should be resting entirely on your stomach with your legs in the air kicking frantically.

In reply to Dave Flanagan:


But whales can't kick, so you know you're doing it wrong when that happens...

If, however, you feel the need to hump desperately like a whale struggling to cross land, then you've got it sussed.

In reply to Dave Flanagan:
My apologies, better read an article to the end before commenting!

Anyway, not everybody has the physical conditioning required! In Frankenjura that would be called a Kitzmann muscle.

CB

edited because of stupidity

In reply to UKC Articles:

I personally rate the beached whale. Nothing quite as satisfying as getting passed the crux, getting over tired, bellying over the lip and then getting stuck so you have to hump the rock to get your body just passed the "slip back down painfully" area. Most comfortable in Font, least so on grit.

Happy times.