UKC

Take a look inside the February 2010 issue of Climb Magazine. Great articles on Italian Ice, George Smith's Dinorwig Diaries, Stevie Haston on training, Wonderful Wilton and all the usual great departments and features, illustrated with stunning photography.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2412

In reply to UKC Articles: My subscription copy arrived yesterday, read it already. Once again it's an awesome read, I love the bit about Wilton having spent a fair bit of time there, however one disappointing thing was the supposed poster, where is it? Is it that pitiful little Wild Country advert in the back of the mag?

In reply to UKC Articles:

Looks like some nice crumpet on the cover for a change

In reply to UKC Articles: My subscription copy arrived yesterday. I ahve to say I particularly like the Letter of the Week this month

Some great articles and stunning photos once again.

In reply to UKC Articles:

how can there be next to nothing on british winter climbing?

In reply to Franco Cookson:


As in winter rock climbing or just messing around in the snow?

In reply to owlart:


So not the normal sycophantic drivel along the lines of

"Dear Climb,

I've just started climbing and I tink your mag is the bestest ever!"

In reply to UKC Articles: has it got a steve haston article on how to spit a dummy as far as you can?

In reply to Ed_Bailey: The 'poster' is pretty lame. Its an advert...

In reply to UKC Articles:

As usual, I would love to get feedback on the "Italian Ice" article, particularly if anyone found it informative enough (or not...) to be tempted trying to come here and check any of the routes described!

In reply to Dark Mavis:

As in the best mixed climbing conditions we've had in years...

In reply to Frankie1992: Next month's looks like it might be a real poster...

In reply to Franco Cookson:

It's because nobody like winter climbing....hehe

In reply to UKC Articles:

Am I the only one thinking.."How much did Climb pay for this NEW ARTICLE??"

In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Hi Luca
Enjoyed the article and (as last time) it was the reason I bought the mag. Fantastic centrefold picture of L'Altro Volto del Pianeta. I doubt many Brits have done it, so a bit odd that there's no text about it (particularly since I think the photo captions mis-label where it is - Val Argentera, rather than Germanesca or Varaita, I thought). But maybe the photo alone provides ample inspiration. The one in Mario Sertori's Alpine Ice guidebook worked for us last year, and was what led us to seek it out, not knowing anything about whether it was in condition or not. Definitely one of the most memorable icefalls I've ever done, despite it's overall modest size compared to say the options around Briancon. [I have some less good photos of Val Argentera within my Picasa album (see profile link), if anyone wants to see general setting/ambiance]

The photos of the other routes don't give much away, and in fact only two of them relate to descriptions in the text. So Val Varaita is still a bit of a mystery, although you saying that it could have been another Cogne is tantalising. Still, I marvel at how Christian (chtur) has managed to climb absolutely everywhere!

As with last time (Monte Bianco Italian-side alpine rock) maybe covering too much area in the permitted pages? I'm sure each valley is at least one article in their own right, but you're never going to get the space to do that, right! Don't want you turning everywhere in Italy into a new Cogne, otherwise I may be forced into learning German and checking out Austria!

Tony

In reply to Padraig; Which new article is that? The slate one? Haven't read it, but if it is new, and not just the same old route by route description of a crag then it can only be a good thing.

I also think the front cover shot is pretty crap. There must be so many great slate shots out there, but the one thye used is unidentifiable, I didn't even think it was slate to begin with! Nice shot of the person, but pretty useless to show off the drama of slate climbing. George Smith or MArk Reeves must have some great shots that could have been used. Shame, really.

In reply to TonyM:

Hi Tony,
thanks for your feedback. Few points:

Altro Volto del Pianeta: I decided against it because I had no decent picture of it, then Roberto provided the one you've seen. Also, when I wrote the article, there was not certainty it would have been in condition this year (autumn had been warmi-ish)... and then winter is been the way everyone is seeing!!! The "extreme" line I wanted to put was the Cascatone del Pis (much much more difficult than PIaneta), but again, at some point I've decided it was a bit too exotic for inclusion. Ok, next time.

There's one SUPERB area that was not mentioned in the article - Val Troncea, near Val Chisone - and that's because climbing restrictions there (for environmental reasons) are this year more stringent than before. Too bad, it's really one of the greatest ice climbing venues of the NW.

The wrong caption - my fault completely, of course. As usual captions are the last thing I write, and I never re-check everything enough!

Varaita as another Cogne - my climbing mate opinion (and he's really much more entitled to me to have an opinion!) is that the main advantage of Cogne in respect of Varaita is that Valsavarenche and Valgrisanche are quite close to Cogne, while commuting from Varaita to the closest alternatives (Val Pellice or Val Maira or Valle Po) it's nowhere as convenient. Personally I think that Varaita is "special", and it's popularity with locals is the proof of this. I believe also that the thing that makes Varaita a stand out is the availability of so much different stuff, while what makes Cogne great is the uniform quality and ease of access.

An in deep article on some specific "small" area: I've something in mind that could really interest all you guy, let's see if Climb is interested...

In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Hi Luca
Can't find any details on Cascatone del Pis, other than this photo: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:CascataDelPis.JPG. Imagine it would be tremendous when frozen. But since, I found Pianeta enough of a challenge, the "much more difficult" bit worries me! Any idea where it is documented?

Why is Val Troncea under a ban? I can't imagine ice climbing has that much impact?

I reckon Varaita is a forgotten backwater compared to Cogne becasue of no "Cascades autour de Mont Blanc", as much as neighbouring options

In reply to UKC Articles: The "free poster" is more like a large advert. Hardly poster sized, and covered in text, trying to flog gear. I understand that Wild Country need to use the posters for advertisement, but this is taking it a bit far!

In reply to TonyM:

Cascata del Pis

The complete name is Cascata del Pis Massello, and it's on the head of the Vallone del Massello, Val Germanasca. The only recen topo I've ever seen is on Gulliver.it

www.gulliver.it

If you're interested I can post a translation. Keep in mind that the grades described are (as usual) seriously compressed.

Val Troncea: because of wildflife - apparently. Personally I've plenty of doubts about the real reasons, and there are few nasty rumours related to it, but the truth is that one should probably take the ecological explanation for its face value. It's a pity, because Troncea is a real gem. Almost all the lines are beautiful, and one, the Cascatone del Rouit (that's NOT closed, btw) is a real gem. You may see some pictures again on Gulliver.

And yes, the lack of a comprehensive non-Italian guidebook will definitely relegate Varaita to a relative obscurity - but I suspect that the way things should be, the masses in Rjukan and the few good men here!

In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Yes, please! I'll private email you. Look out for it among your spam, as your email tends to identify me as an undesirable!

Will probably try and check out the Torinese Saturday afternoon ice crag from your article this weekend, since sounds ideal option from Caselle airport.

Tony

In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Found it on Gulliver! Given a 5+ grade there. What a joke! It looks like La Dame du Lac (and that's 6/6+), First main pitch 30m at 90-95 degrees!

In reply to UKC Articles:

I have a nice photo of Cascata del Pis Massello but I will not show it.....It is, in my opinion, very difficult to get good and safe conditions for climbing it. It takes the Sun and there is a "huge" flow of water behind it with a very special build up at the base. You have to have very cold conditions for a long time to get it into the bag. I have been there to see how it partly collapses...... Still waiting for the right conditions of it, which is one part of the game...

For Val Troncea there is a ban and people will notice directly if you attempt to climb something! Here is some early conditions before Christmas this year.... (all theses falls are forbidden!)

http://album.spinphys.org/fuori/tron_01.jpg
http://album.spinphys.org/fuori/tron_02.jpg
http://album.spinphys.org/fuori/tron_03.jpg
http://album.spinphys.org/fuori/tron_04.jpg
http://album.spinphys.org/fuori/tron_05.jpg

Ps1. Waterice grade does not exists! Only the beatiful lines.....

Ps2. I have some nice and recent photos from Arnas....avalanche danger!!!

In reply to chrtur:


Reportedly there's been a close call in Arnas today or yesterday ... no one was hurt, but sound like it was quite hairy.

I was tempted to mention Arnas in the article, but my hatred for the ENEL service road there and the environmental disaster it has created simply prevents me to talk about it. I remember how Arnas was before the road was built, every time I return I want to cry.

And still there's still some idiot thinking that the road was a bonus to make the icefalls more accessible!

Any other feedback on the Climb article? Anyone?