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ARTICLE: From 'en pointe' to Redpoint: How Ballet Can Improve Climbing Footwork and Foot Health

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 UKC Articles 31 Jan 2024

Climbing is a sport of constant challenges and exhilarating heights, but it's also a sport that can take its toll on your feet. Whether cramming into your performance climbing shoes in order to tackle sharp edges or trusting a foot jam that feels like it may break bones, foot health is of paramount importance for climbers.

The good news is that there's a source of wisdom when it comes to maintaining and improving the health of your feet: ballet. You may have already heard how ballet techniques can better your climbing, but the art of dance that has been perfecting footwork for centuries also has valuable techniques and exercises to offer climbers seeking better foot health.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

Good, very interesting. Can I suggest an article on foot recovery, how to look after your feet, how to deal with foot funk, toxic shoes, fungal nail infections etc.

Much less glamorous than ballet but perhaps more relevant.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

I wonder if any of the Leeds Uni Wall on UKC remember the visit of some touring ballet dancers in the '70s? The apocryphal story was that they basically sent everything, however it would be good to hear a first hand view

 steveriley 01 Feb 2024
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Great story, was it in 'Games Climbers Play'?

One of the guys at the wall trained as a dancer, damn he's strong. And flexible. He's got a bit distracted by another sport now but good to watch.

 Doug 01 Feb 2024
In reply to steveriley:

I thought it was a story in one of Dennis Gray's books or articles, but maybe reprinted somewhere.

 deepsoup 01 Feb 2024
In reply to Doug:

In the context of ballet dancers being ridiculously good climbers I believe it's also traditional to mention Rachel Farmer.  (Whose life was tragically cut short - good grief - almost 31 years ago.)

 Sean Kelly 01 Feb 2024
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

> I wonder if any of the Leeds Uni Wall on UKC remember the visit of some touring ballet dancers in the '70s? The apocryphal story was that they basically sent everything, however it would be good to hear a first hand view

I can distinctly recall Dennis Gray telling me about a male ballet dancer at Leeds Wall. It could have been that group. Balance, flexibility & strength all climbing assets.

 sjminfife 01 Feb 2024
In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

I heard of it too and I am sure it was reported in an old copy of Crags or On the Edge. 

 sjminfife 01 Feb 2024
In reply to deepsoup:

My copy of "Face Dancing" provides infrequent but deep inspiration. I wish I could get a few copies more.

 profitofdoom 01 Feb 2024
In reply to Doug:

> I thought it was a story in one of Dennis Gray's books or articles, but maybe reprinted somewhere.

I thought it was 1 April

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 Rob Jarratt 04 Feb 2024
In reply to UKC Articles:

I once went to see a ballet. It isn't really my thing, but I was amazed at the grace and physicality of it and I remember thinking at the time that any ballet dancer could be a great climber. I would guess that the only physical attribute a ballet dancer might need to develop is finger strength, but with their superb balance, agility and core strength they might not even need as much as most of the rest of us

 Robert Durran 04 Feb 2024
In reply to profitofdoom:

> I thought it was 1 April

This was (I think.....):   youtube.com/watch?v=0KfE2ONpO20&

Brilliant in that it is almost believable

Post edited at 09:52

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