In reply to Neil Kershaw:
Agreed. It ends up doing someone a disservice if you try to compare cutting edge trad with cutting edge sport. They are both incredibly difficult, but for different reasons, which doesn't mean one detracts from t'other.
And, for the record, while Dave's stuff in the lakes may be very hard (in trad terms), it's not cutting edge trad on a global scale. That would be an insular and blinkered view.
I would also suggest that John's new stuff, while right up there, is not the hardest thing ever climbed (in which case it would get 10). There are a few other routes out there at the same grade and two higher. It's also a 'thin ice' statement to claim that only John can make these moves. You've got Fred Nichole who could probably manage this line sooner or later, Fernandez with his 9a+ and now 9b+, the whole Basque crew who seem to be out of control on anything harder than 8c, a whole bunch of German freaks like Loskot and Willenberg, not to mention the Spaniards, headed up by Ramonet (who's done several 9a's and a 9a+), Andrada, etc.... I would also be surprised if Sharma, Graham and perhaps even Kehl didn't make a serious impression on this route.
There are lots of very good climbers in the world. Unfortunately, we only really have Steve and John who can compete on the world stage right now, but that doesn't mean John is THE BEST in the world or is able to do anything others can't. Who knows...? That's why it's exiting to watch the people at the top; you're never quite sure of what they're going to do.