Last night was the official launch of Jerry Moffatt – Revelations, the biography of one of the world's top rock climbers of the last 30 years.
At his peak, Jerry was the best in the world at bouldering and lead rock climbing, as well as being a pioneer in training techniques, and a main mover in the development of lead climbing walls.
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Good grief, the last time I saw Mark Pretty and Chris Plant would have been the very first time I ever went to Ravens Tor in 1989. Mark was hanging around on his project that eventually became Make It Funky while Chris was on belaying duties. Bloody hell I'm feeling old now!
> At his peak, Jerry was the best in the world at bouldering and lead rock climbing, as well as being a pioneer in training techniques, and a main mover in the development of lead climbing walls.
OK, I'll bite. What was the hardest bit of bouldering or lead climbing IN THE WORLD that Jerry managed ?
It is a very well written book and easy to read with a good flow to things.
Grimer has done an excellent job and I would recommend it to anyone who has an interest in climbing history, training, mental approaches and wants to be inspired!
In reply to GrahamD: No idea but for a while there he was the best in the world. I doubt that many of the new routes he established are still the very hardest but at the time he was the tits.
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> OK, I'll bite. What was the hardest bit of bouldering or lead climbing IN THE WORLD that Jerry managed ?
bouldering was just what you did when it was raining back then and you couldn't climb
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> OK, I'll bite. What was the hardest bit of bouldering or lead climbing IN THE WORLD that Jerry managed ?
Off the top of my head and only FAs,
for bouldering, probably The Ace at Stanage (Ft8b - 2000)
for sport routes, possibly Liquid Ambar at LPT (F8c?F8c+?? - 1990?)
for trad routes, probably Masters Wall at Cloggy (E7 - 1983) (or Samson at Burbage if you want grit)
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