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Johnny Dawes has been at the cutting edge of rock climbing for over 20 years. As one of the most experimental climbers of all time, Johnny has now turned his attention to the esoteric discipline of no-handed climbing. A master of movement and balance, Johnny has an understanding of kinesthetic climbing skills like no other, which he shares in his typical quirky manner. Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69643
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In reply to UKC News:
It's not something new. I've been doing no-hands climbing almost since I started 40+ years ago. It's another fun activity and is a subset of bouldering.
It's not something new. I've been doing no-hands climbing almost since I started 40+ years ago. It's another fun activity and is a subset of bouldering.
In reply to UKC News:
Ah, so this was why the thread was pulled yesterday (along with the comments that had been posted)
Ah, so this was why the thread was pulled yesterday (along with the comments that had been posted)
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In reply to wayne sharrocks:
ooh ta, next to Telli, thought it was familiar but couldn't remember.
why couldn't it have just been a VD...
ooh ta, next to Telli, thought it was familiar but couldn't remember.
why couldn't it have just been a VD...
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In reply to Chris the Tall:
Yep. It was an accidental spoiler. I got a nice email telling me why it had been pulled. :O)
I was about to respond to your post (along similar lines to what loose_overhang says above) that it's nothing new (that was you wasn't it?) Of course that's true, *lots* of us have tried no-hands climbing and it is a fun thing to do. We don't all go strolling up routes like that though eh? ;O)
Yep. It was an accidental spoiler. I got a nice email telling me why it had been pulled. :O)
I was about to respond to your post (along similar lines to what loose_overhang says above) that it's nothing new (that was you wasn't it?) Of course that's true, *lots* of us have tried no-hands climbing and it is a fun thing to do. We don't all go strolling up routes like that though eh? ;O)
In reply to JamButty:
> ooh ta, next to Telli, thought it was familiar but couldn't remember.
It is Telli at the start, he traverses onto August arete half way up. (Well, more sort of nonchalantly strolls across the break like it's a great big balcony.)
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In reply to deepsoup:
So he didn't do the whole HVS.....what a big girl.....
> It is Telli at the start, he traverses onto August arete half way up. (Well, more sort of nonchalantly strolls across the break like it's a great big balcony.)
So he didn't do the whole HVS.....what a big girl.....
In reply to UKC News:
Once again, for the umpteenth time recently, UKC forums have shown themselves to be a pit of bilious cynicism. How many of these sneering cynics can seriously climb 1/10th as well as Johnny with no hands?
Once again, for the umpteenth time recently, UKC forums have shown themselves to be a pit of bilious cynicism. How many of these sneering cynics can seriously climb 1/10th as well as Johnny with no hands?
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In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
eh?
> Once again, for the umpteenth time recently, UKC forums have shown themselves to be a pit of bilious cynicism. How many of these sneering cynics can seriously climb 1/10th as well as Johnny with no hands?
eh?
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In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Slightly odd comment. Reviewing the above I can't really see any sneering at all (well, except for yours!). Which ones do you think possess this property - or have they been perhaps pulled?
> Once again, for the umpteenth time recently, UKC forums have shown themselves to be a pit of bilious cynicism. How many of these sneering cynics can seriously climb 1/10th as well as Johnny with no hands?
Slightly odd comment. Reviewing the above I can't really see any sneering at all (well, except for yours!). Which ones do you think possess this property - or have they been perhaps pulled?
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In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I think the bilious cynicism in this case is coming from the pit of your own imagination. Nothing but love for 'The Dawes' on this thread so far...
I think the bilious cynicism in this case is coming from the pit of your own imagination. Nothing but love for 'The Dawes' on this thread so far...
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In reply to deepsoup:
'It's not something new.' 'Is this a pisstake?' 'He looks like David Brent.'
And, yes, it seems that a lot of comments have been pulled.
'It's not something new.' 'Is this a pisstake?' 'He looks like David Brent.'
And, yes, it seems that a lot of comments have been pulled.
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In reply to teltrabm:
It would be lovely if such a guidebook had a huge introduction explaining the techniques he uses i.e. enlarging on many of the interesting but esoteric things he says in the movie.
I remember once walking back from a pub with him in Sheffield, years ago, and we came across this pillar at the side of the road - one of those anti-parking posts a bit like a cannon – that had been run into by a car and had been loosely propped upright. Johnny threw out a challenge, 'Can anyone stand on that?' I think I boldly had first go, or an early go, trying to do a fancy neat mantelshelf, but got nowhere near it. There were three or four others with us in the party (some quite big 'climbing names', but please don't ask me to remember exactly who - the people he shared his flat with for starters), and no one could do it. Johnny just seemed to leap on to it with perfect precision in a crouched position, and then just stood up on it - the pillar wobbling all over the place, but that didn't seem to affect him at all.
It would be lovely if such a guidebook had a huge introduction explaining the techniques he uses i.e. enlarging on many of the interesting but esoteric things he says in the movie.
I remember once walking back from a pub with him in Sheffield, years ago, and we came across this pillar at the side of the road - one of those anti-parking posts a bit like a cannon – that had been run into by a car and had been loosely propped upright. Johnny threw out a challenge, 'Can anyone stand on that?' I think I boldly had first go, or an early go, trying to do a fancy neat mantelshelf, but got nowhere near it. There were three or four others with us in the party (some quite big 'climbing names', but please don't ask me to remember exactly who - the people he shared his flat with for starters), and no one could do it. Johnny just seemed to leap on to it with perfect precision in a crouched position, and then just stood up on it - the pillar wobbling all over the place, but that didn't seem to affect him at all.
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In reply to Pylon King Against Capit@lism:
Has anyone ever talked more interestingly and zanily about climbing?
Has anyone ever talked more interestingly and zanily about climbing?
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
No.
> Has anyone ever talked more interestingly and zanily about climbing?
No.
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In reply to UKC News:
I thought it was a charming film. Humorous, inspiring, and strangely beautiful to see see a man in his 50s move with such grace. Sorry Johnny, but you should climb more uglily if you want to avoid eulogies. But knee-length shorts... so 2013.
Is uglily a word?
I thought it was a charming film. Humorous, inspiring, and strangely beautiful to see see a man in his 50s move with such grace. Sorry Johnny, but you should climb more uglily if you want to avoid eulogies. But knee-length shorts... so 2013.
Is uglily a word?
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
You seem to be ooverreacting for the umpteenth time recently.
How many of these sneering cynics can seriously climb 1/10th as well as Johnny with no hands?
Can anyone anywhere climb as well as Johnny with no hands?
> Once again, for the umpteenth time recently, UKC forums have shown themselves to be a pit of bilious cynicism.
You seem to be ooverreacting for the umpteenth time recently.
How many of these sneering cynics can seriously climb 1/10th as well as Johnny with no hands?
Can anyone anywhere climb as well as Johnny with no hands?
In reply to aln:
I was having a little bit of insomnia last night, and just as I was dropping off one of my boys came into my bed with a mare. The nighttime variety. Not a real horse. Anyway, we found and watched the youtube of joe and Don on cemetery Gates and the other one with Bonington. I was struck with how efficiently joe moved. Don, brutal but graceful, Chris, dithery but confident. I'm naturally more of a Don, but that Brown effectiveness is my aspiration.
Johnny is an extravagant inspiration. I'm old and f*cked now, and 7 bloody years younger, but I wish I had his balance and sheer strength.
Bet anyone here that a generation down the line it will be Joe and Johnny who are readily remembered.
That's enough. Not a thread for ukc bitchery really, eh?
I was having a little bit of insomnia last night, and just as I was dropping off one of my boys came into my bed with a mare. The nighttime variety. Not a real horse. Anyway, we found and watched the youtube of joe and Don on cemetery Gates and the other one with Bonington. I was struck with how efficiently joe moved. Don, brutal but graceful, Chris, dithery but confident. I'm naturally more of a Don, but that Brown effectiveness is my aspiration.
Johnny is an extravagant inspiration. I'm old and f*cked now, and 7 bloody years younger, but I wish I had his balance and sheer strength.
Bet anyone here that a generation down the line it will be Joe and Johnny who are readily remembered.
That's enough. Not a thread for ukc bitchery really, eh?
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Well this is true isn't it? I doubt anyone has ever developed it to the amazing level that Johnny has, but that doesn't make it new. It's one of the first challenges children devise in play: "Look Mum, no hands!"
Ah, fairy nuff then. I didn't see those, just yours which made it look rather like you were railing against nothing much at all.
> 'It's not something new.'
Well this is true isn't it? I doubt anyone has ever developed it to the amazing level that Johnny has, but that doesn't make it new. It's one of the first challenges children devise in play: "Look Mum, no hands!"
> And, yes, it seems that a lot of comments have been pulled.
Ah, fairy nuff then. I didn't see those, just yours which made it look rather like you were railing against nothing much at all.
In reply to Pylon King Against Capit@lism:
"If a dad-dancer can relax with looking crap they can really enjoy the evening can't they?"
Wonderful. :O)
Did I dream it, or did I read that JD had done Incursion at Stanage End (E1 5b) on one foot some time back? A good few years ago now. I'm sure I remember reading "FA {whoever the first ascentionist was}, FAWNHAOF* Johnny Dawes". Where did I see that?
* - First ascent with no hands and one foot.
> Dawes is the f@cking Biz.
> He is so refreshingly uncool.
> He is so refreshingly uncool.
"If a dad-dancer can relax with looking crap they can really enjoy the evening can't they?"
Wonderful. :O)
Did I dream it, or did I read that JD had done Incursion at Stanage End (E1 5b) on one foot some time back? A good few years ago now. I'm sure I remember reading "FA {whoever the first ascentionist was}, FAWNHAOF* Johnny Dawes". Where did I see that?
* - First ascent with no hands and one foot.
In reply to UKC News:
This is such a nice little film. A true climber, expressing everything that the sport should be about.
Doesn't this not just want you to get out on some rock and mess around?
Better than watching Ondra cranking a sport route or some punter working his way up an E11. Simple, to the point, Personal Challenge Climbing, the way it should be done!
It's obvious Johnny still has that child like joy in getting stuck in there and climbing some rock in the most enjoyable way possible to him.
This is such a nice little film. A true climber, expressing everything that the sport should be about.
Doesn't this not just want you to get out on some rock and mess around?
Better than watching Ondra cranking a sport route or some punter working his way up an E11. Simple, to the point, Personal Challenge Climbing, the way it should be done!
It's obvious Johnny still has that child like joy in getting stuck in there and climbing some rock in the most enjoyable way possible to him.
Post edited at 01:34
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In reply to UKC News:
Nothing's been pulled.
That E1 up that slab looks hard. One leg... well the guidebooks say so and a fine pisstake of us mere mortals. More power to his calfs.
Nothing's been pulled.
That E1 up that slab looks hard. One leg... well the guidebooks say so and a fine pisstake of us mere mortals. More power to his calfs.
In reply to David Alcock:
I'm confused by your post. If you're implying said UKC bitchery in my post then I'm baffled. None intended, and on re-reading my post I can't see how any can be inferred.
> That's enough. Not a thread for ukc bitchery really, eh?
I'm confused by your post. If you're implying said UKC bitchery in my post then I'm baffled. None intended, and on re-reading my post I can't see how any can be inferred.
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In reply to UKC News:
Calves, obviously.
While I'm banging on on this telephonic device, Gordon, eye to the hills. I got that book I believe in my 20s but it gave me lots of pleasure for the nw Scotland pics. When me and mine were in our late teens around 91 92 we had a habit of camping at the top of the torridon pass for a week in winter. We had one axe between three, so many steps were cut. No tampons, obviously. But a few years later your book brought that back to life.
Just chill a bit, though I hate the phrase. The mountains are bigger than any of us. You've had your epics, and I hope I won't. Fair play etc.
Posted to cheer this bilious forum up. Or is that what ukc is all about? Badmouthing in my day was done privately. Just wondering.
Met a pair of teens bouldering at Haresfield today. So nice. Pleasant. Not like me or you with a cause in those days.
Calves, obviously.
While I'm banging on on this telephonic device, Gordon, eye to the hills. I got that book I believe in my 20s but it gave me lots of pleasure for the nw Scotland pics. When me and mine were in our late teens around 91 92 we had a habit of camping at the top of the torridon pass for a week in winter. We had one axe between three, so many steps were cut. No tampons, obviously. But a few years later your book brought that back to life.
Just chill a bit, though I hate the phrase. The mountains are bigger than any of us. You've had your epics, and I hope I won't. Fair play etc.
Posted to cheer this bilious forum up. Or is that what ukc is all about? Badmouthing in my day was done privately. Just wondering.
Met a pair of teens bouldering at Haresfield today. So nice. Pleasant. Not like me or you with a cause in those days.
Post edited at 02:17
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In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Ah well. It happens. Then we get over it. Peace.
Aln. Sorry but I missed yours. No is the simple answer. Just thought this grundle was possibly the most stupid thing for people to argue about. Even for here.
Disenchanted of Cotswolds/Sheffield.
Ah well. It happens. Then we get over it. Peace.
Aln. Sorry but I missed yours. No is the simple answer. Just thought this grundle was possibly the most stupid thing for people to argue about. Even for here.
Disenchanted of Cotswolds/Sheffield.
Post edited at 03:58
In reply to deepsoup:
Looking at the timeline of the contributions to this thread I would have thought it unlikely that the UKC admins would be pulling 'cynical' comments at around 8:30 on a Friday night - unless their lives are as boring as mine (unlikely). I think your original summary "railing against nothing much at all" is probably accurate.
> Ah, fairy nuff then. I didn't see those, just yours which made it look rather like you were railing against nothing much at all.
Looking at the timeline of the contributions to this thread I would have thought it unlikely that the UKC admins would be pulling 'cynical' comments at around 8:30 on a Friday night - unless their lives are as boring as mine (unlikely). I think your original summary "railing against nothing much at all" is probably accurate.
In reply to UKC News:
Within months of starting to learn to climb I got a frozen shoulder; for 3 months I couldn't lift my arm over my head. Although I guess I might have looked rather silly, learning to climb on my feet rather than hauling up on my arms was a great unintended result. Even now I spend most of my time searching and planning foot placements; of course nothing like the level demonstrated by Johnny!
Within months of starting to learn to climb I got a frozen shoulder; for 3 months I couldn't lift my arm over my head. Although I guess I might have looked rather silly, learning to climb on my feet rather than hauling up on my arms was a great unintended result. Even now I spend most of my time searching and planning foot placements; of course nothing like the level demonstrated by Johnny!
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Is it me or is Johnny starting to look a little like Rushcliffe MP Kenneth Clark?
In reply to deepsoup:
Yes totally, and the quote along the lines of 'just trying to be better than someone else is f*cking boring!'
> "If a dad-dancer can relax with looking crap they can really enjoy the evening can't they?"
> Wonderful. :O)
Yes totally, and the quote along the lines of 'just trying to be better than someone else is f*cking boring!'
In reply to UKC News:
Amusing and always been good for the technique. If I lived in the peak then I can imagine this would be a good alternative for a fun night.
JD still has that mad look in the eyes which fits well with his approach. Always been an inspiration and didn't he do this in his original stone monkey video?
Amusing and always been good for the technique. If I lived in the peak then I can imagine this would be a good alternative for a fun night.
JD still has that mad look in the eyes which fits well with his approach. Always been an inspiration and didn't he do this in his original stone monkey video?
In reply to yer maw:
Going up slabby routes no handed is a nice exercise drill. I particularly like it because it removes the advantage my lighter climbing partners have on vertical and overhanging stuff.
CB
Going up slabby routes no handed is a nice exercise drill. I particularly like it because it removes the advantage my lighter climbing partners have on vertical and overhanging stuff.
CB
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
John Redhead must come close...
> Has anyone ever talked more interestingly and zanily about climbing?
John Redhead must come close...
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In reply to deepsoup:
He crosses Telli into the arete, doesn't start up it. Great fun and typical Johnny. I might well start calling myself a dad dancer.
He crosses Telli into the arete, doesn't start up it. Great fun and typical Johnny. I might well start calling myself a dad dancer.
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In reply to Pylon King Against Capit@lism:
Not caring about being cool is what makes him cool.
> Dawes is the f@cking Biz.
> He is so refreshingly uncool.
Not caring about being cool is what makes him cool.
In reply to planetmarshall:
Never worked for me
> Not caring about being cool is what makes him cool.
Never worked for me
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In reply to UKC News:
I loved the "Now imagine you are landing a helicopter on this hold" bit. The guy is just in a different world to us mere mortals.
I loved the "Now imagine you are landing a helicopter on this hold" bit. The guy is just in a different world to us mere mortals.
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In reply to UKC News:
All the more impressive given that not too long ago his bones were sticking out of his leg!
All the more impressive given that not too long ago his bones were sticking out of his leg!
1
In reply to UKC News:
I bumped into Johnny Dawes as he was making this film with young filmmakers. He was friendly and engaging in conversation, and was happy to be photographed. (see UKC photos). He was unfailingly courteous, and patient with the numerous retakes. He shows us that we need imagination as well as physical and mental strength to climb, and the ability to enjoy the fun of climbing amid the sometimes self-imposed pressure.
I bumped into Johnny Dawes as he was making this film with young filmmakers. He was friendly and engaging in conversation, and was happy to be photographed. (see UKC photos). He was unfailingly courteous, and patient with the numerous retakes. He shows us that we need imagination as well as physical and mental strength to climb, and the ability to enjoy the fun of climbing amid the sometimes self-imposed pressure.
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In reply to john arran:
If you even get to considering whether or not it works you obviously care far too much to be cool
> Never worked for me
If you even get to considering whether or not it works you obviously care far too much to be cool
1
In reply to planetmarshall:
thats exactly what i tell my son!!
> Not caring about being cool is what makes him cool.
thats exactly what i tell my son!!
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In reply to deepsoup:
We met him at Stanage North a couple of years ago and I asked him about that. He said he did it in two overlapping halves - apparently it was knackering his hopping leg. It was a bit of a strange day out. Among many others there were Andys Cave & Perkins, Mick Fowler and John Allen. JD amusing described it as being like the antiques roadshow.
I'd previously backed off Incursion and felt deeply inadequate!
We met him at Stanage North a couple of years ago and I asked him about that. He said he did it in two overlapping halves - apparently it was knackering his hopping leg. It was a bit of a strange day out. Among many others there were Andys Cave & Perkins, Mick Fowler and John Allen. JD amusing described it as being like the antiques roadshow.
I'd previously backed off Incursion and felt deeply inadequate!
In reply to john arran:
Not caring about being cool makes JD cool.
Thinking you're not cool is what makes you cool. :O)
Not caring about being cool makes JD cool.
Thinking you're not cool is what makes you cool. :O)
In reply to UKC News:
I sometimes lend this philosophy to scrambling.
Indeed, no handed scrambling........or walking. I have managed sea-level to 4000m doing it. ;0)
I sometimes lend this philosophy to scrambling.
Indeed, no handed scrambling........or walking. I have managed sea-level to 4000m doing it. ;0)
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In reply to Morty:
>> John Redhead must come close...
There are some quite ... interesting ... interviews with Dave Graham out there too.
> Has anyone ever talked more interestingly and zanily about climbing?
>> John Redhead must come close...
There are some quite ... interesting ... interviews with Dave Graham out there too.
In reply to Morty:
In a note through the door, he once threatened to chop some relatives down with an axe and dance on their graves eating ice cream after seeing them chop down a dead tree with an axe and eat some ice cream one hot day in the 60's, when they lived down the road from him living with his parents.
They were a bit perturbed, since hearing that story as a kid I've had a funny kind of fascination with John Redhead.
> John Redhead must come close...
In a note through the door, he once threatened to chop some relatives down with an axe and dance on their graves eating ice cream after seeing them chop down a dead tree with an axe and eat some ice cream one hot day in the 60's, when they lived down the road from him living with his parents.
They were a bit perturbed, since hearing that story as a kid I've had a funny kind of fascination with John Redhead.
Post edited at 15:14
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In reply to UKC News:
I like the bit about leaning in the direction he feels he's going to fall, to counteract the fall, I'd never thought of that.
I like the bit about leaning in the direction he feels he's going to fall, to counteract the fall, I'd never thought of that.
In reply to Timmd:
Yes I couldn't quite get my head round that either!
> I like the bit about leaning in the direction he feels he's going to fall, to counteract the fall, I'd never thought of that.
Yes I couldn't quite get my head round that either!
1
In reply to Michael Gordon:
It's fascinating, I'm going to try it
I guess if you place yourself where you're going to wobble to anyway, you're not using energy trying not to get there, and can focus on moving where you want to be moving to instead?
> Yes I couldn't quite get my head round that either!
It's fascinating, I'm going to try it
I guess if you place yourself where you're going to wobble to anyway, you're not using energy trying not to get there, and can focus on moving where you want to be moving to instead?
Post edited at 00:50
In reply to UKC News:
The boy Dawes still magic.
Sh*t! the stone monkey is over fifty - that makes me feel very old indeed.
The boy Dawes still magic.
Sh*t! the stone monkey is over fifty - that makes me feel very old indeed.
1
In reply to Timmd:
I got it as start from the fall direction with momentum. Ie go exactly the opposite direction from the natural peel off the holds.
And yes he is a star. And so is JR.
I got it as start from the fall direction with momentum. Ie go exactly the opposite direction from the natural peel off the holds.
And yes he is a star. And so is JR.
1
In reply to David Alcock:
That makes sense.
I definitely like Johnny Dawes, there's something big hearted and childlike about him.
> I got it as start from the fall direction with momentum. Ie go exactly the opposite direction from the natural peel off the holds.
That makes sense.
> And yes he is a star. And so is JR.
I definitely like Johnny Dawes, there's something big hearted and childlike about him.
1
In reply to UKC News:
Johnny Dawes is still the most inspiring climber in terms of going out playing with and enjoying climbing. He takes everything to the next level. Time to go and top rope a slab! Then maybe climb some trees as well
Johnny Dawes is still the most inspiring climber in terms of going out playing with and enjoying climbing. He takes everything to the next level. Time to go and top rope a slab! Then maybe climb some trees as well
In reply to UKC News:
As ever - crazy, playful, interesting, inspiring but never ever dull, a refreshing alternative to the sanitised number crunching we get so much of, excellent stuff - go Johnny go!
As ever - crazy, playful, interesting, inspiring but never ever dull, a refreshing alternative to the sanitised number crunching we get so much of, excellent stuff - go Johnny go!
In reply to UKC News:
So I've just got V grades in my head, does this mean we now need to assign D grades to slabs??
Love it.Chris
So I've just got V grades in my head, does this mean we now need to assign D grades to slabs??
Love it.Chris
Post edited at 17:05
In reply to UKC News:
This is quite amusing but if he wasn't serious about it I doubt he would have continued doing it after smashing his ankle to pieces on a route he was trying no-handed (an E1 no less, at least that what Johnny told me it was as I tried to unstuck myself from a VD chimney/cave at stanage on summer evening a few years ago before preceeding to hawk his book and DVD to us). What a climber though - HVS 5B!!! no handed. Brilliant.
This is quite amusing but if he wasn't serious about it I doubt he would have continued doing it after smashing his ankle to pieces on a route he was trying no-handed (an E1 no less, at least that what Johnny told me it was as I tried to unstuck myself from a VD chimney/cave at stanage on summer evening a few years ago before preceeding to hawk his book and DVD to us). What a climber though - HVS 5B!!! no handed. Brilliant.
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