UKC

It has been said that the Peak District is a difficult place to start sport climbing. The UK as a whole is not endowed with a huge number of high-quality, easy sport routes and hearing the words 'Peak limestone' certainly doesn't bring to mind climbing on tufa-ridden orange rock in the sun. Nonetheless, there's enough to go at for some memorable days out and a welcome change to getting pumped at the indoor wall.

This article assumes you know about Horseshoe Quarry, so where else should those climbing at or below 7a head to if they're looking to clip some bolts?

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In reply to UKC Articles:

Is Masson definitely going to be filled in? :⁠-⁠(

In reply to TobyA:

Doubtful

In reply to TobyA:

No it isn't, it has protected status (hence why it couldn't be used to back fill will with everything that was dug out to build matlock spa and also climbing is allowed as we know. A rather misleading or un  researched article ? "Intake quarry is worth considering" then goes on to say access is an issue so therefore not worth considering?  I was under the impression tbat a large crack had been discovered above one of the main walls which could have disastrous consequences so climbing there had been banned ? Also check out the photo gallery at the end of the article,  I'm fairly sure evolution, nemesis,  rubicon etc are a little out of the grade range of routes being described?

In reply to climber34neil:

The first two definitely. Rubicon was 7a last time I checked so just about creeps in there

In reply to Wide_Mouth_Frog:

Haha, yep, fair point 

In reply to UKC Articles:

That High Tor crag looks a bit shite! Also is Leicestershire in the Peak?

In reply to UKC Articles:

“You've heard of Chee Dale, you've maybe even paid a visit, but let's be real, the climbing there starts at 7a and it's hard 7a at that”

Most of the 6s in Cheedale are better than many of the 6s at the quarries featured in the article. 

In reply to climber34neil:

I don't think Tarmac's dislike of climbers has anything to do with the cracks - there are loads of them btw - crevasse size in some cases all along the top. Similar at the top of main wall at Hidden and in parts of Goddards.

In reply to UKC Articles:

I don’t think there’s anywhere in the Peak with a decent selection of 6s. Head to Portland or the A55 for that. Even Llangmynech - far from perfect but great for fitness and feels quite traddy.

There are some good routes scattered around the Peak though. I thought this one was great at 6b+ and the logbooks agree. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/dovedale-962/the_lime_arch-194801

Lots of good 7as and some occasional good upper 6s in Chee Dale and to a lesser extent WCJ. Not exactly easy for the grade but at least you know that you can climb 7a if you can do a 7a at the Cornice, just don’t expect to onsight it!

Yorkshire is better though. Again, more so from 7a.

I think most people climbing up to about 7a tend to focus on onsighting  and hence it’s easy to equate good with easy to onsight and reasonable for the grade (as well as not being chossy and having interesting moves). That’s fair enough but I think to do the good stuff in the UK you’ve got to embrace the redpoint struggle (which then means you can onsight harder). It’s a bit like alpine or winter climbing, or trad on a big sea cliff or mountain crag. Unless you’re climbing well within your grade and conditions are perfect, prepare to suffer and put the effort in. That’s a bit tongue in cheek and redpointing isn’t exactly suffering but my point is that you can’t expect to have it all on a plate. I think a lot of people expect climbing to be this cuddly thing but in the UK that is rarely the case.

The issue with Peak quarries is they’re all a bit rubbish really, while the natural lime is hard for the grade, hard to onsight and generally not amazing compared to Eurosport, but at least it’s got soul… and it will be a struggle 😉

In reply to Misha:

A good summation! 

In reply to UKC Articles:

There plenty of quality uner 7a in the peak, you just need to look for them and break away from the honeypot. In the last 4 years  quality stuff has been climbed and will continue to be.

In reply to climber34neil:

Hi Neil

There was a time when Masson Lees was being refilled but you are correct, that has now stopped. I have amended the article. 

Climbing at Intake has never been allowed and the instability has always existed. Some of the walls are fine since it is extensive and many people still climb there but there has certainly been a bit of a clampdown by the owners recently and the parking has become more problematic as well.

The photo gallery is just drawing photos automatically from the galleries on the associated crags.

Cheers
Alan

There’s some good climbing in the Peak quarries, for sure, but I tend to agree with your sentiment 100%. 

The only sport crags in the UK that could genuinely hold their own on the World stage are probably, the Yorkshire trio, LPT, Anstey’s / Lulworth and the Tor. 

In reply to UKC Articles: there are masses of excellent 5s and low 6s in the peak, just need to buy some trad gear and learn how to use it

In reply to InC

I think you meant in England.

In reply to Robert Durran:

LPT?

In reply to InC:

Agree but was it Antoine Le Menesrel who drove past the Tor wondering where this great Peak crag was?

i would add The Diamond to the list, not that I’m good enough for 98% of the routes there…

Possibly something in Scotland?

In reply to UKC Articles:

“providing the parking hasn't been overrun by Manchester scallies, which can happen on bank holiday weekends”

Your privilege is showing, and it’s disgusting.

In reply to Lankyman:

Sorry, yes, I meant "I think you meant south of the border".

In reply to UKC Articles:

Very useful article, thanks 

In reply to Misha:

For this to be true then there would have to be a big problem with various guidebooks and the logs on here, and I don't think there is. I can fully appreciate why people don't like the venues but Harpur Hill and Hosehoe have a decent selection of routes in the 6s, as indicated, though the better routes as Horseshoe are top end 6s. I climbed in Spain and Portland again last year and route for route the 'starring' is consistent with Peak venues..

I think it's become fashionable to say it's a all a bit shit, but really it is what it is..... a few good walls with quality routes, which are scattered about, and quite a bit of mediocre and below routes, which get attention because they are close to population centres