It has been said that the Peak District is a difficult place to start sport climbing. The UK as a whole is not endowed with a huge number of high-quality, easy sport routes and hearing the words 'Peak limestone' certainly doesn't bring to mind climbing on tufa-ridden orange rock in the sun. Nonetheless, there's enough to go at for some memorable days out and a welcome change to getting pumped at the indoor wall.

For many people, their first experience of Peak District sport will be the famous Horseshoe Quarry. It would appear to be the obvious choice, with a large number of starred routes in the easier grades and straightforward access.

The showpiece of the crag is the Main Wall, which has a few gems below 7a, but it is on the other walls where the real wealth of routes are to be found. The unappealingly-named Toilet area is probably the most popular, but there is also a range of other routes including the Top Quarry which is arguably the best place to head for if you are a beginner.

This article assumes you know about Horseshoe, so where else should those climbing at or below 7a head to if they're looking to clip some bolts?

Stoney Area

Horse-Thief Quarry

Horseshoe's smaller and younger brother. Despite awkward access across the busy A623, this venue somehow manages to feel relatively calm and secluded.

The left-hand side has some of the easier sport routes around and is often used by instructors to give people their first experiences on rock. The steeper right-hand side is better and offers higher grades. The routes here are a little over bolted - not that most people will mind that - but it can be confusing as you stand up and wonder which of the three reachable bolts to clip. This small issue aside, the routes are decent and it is virtually roadside but with slightly limited parking.

And if you have climbed-out Horse-Thief, then there's always…

Stoney West

Perched on the hillside just before the Horseshoe bend, Stoney West has several buttresses which all sit above a precipitous, narrow path. The main wall is the best of the bunch. Here, a selection of 6b/6c lines ascend the wall via a series of boulder problems separated by good rests. Ideal for the boulderer looking to tie in - get past the first move and you should be OK. It also has some options for those lacking finger strength, including the fabulous 'A Time and a Place' (6a) and 'The State of the Nation' (6b+).

There are other routes further left including a classic E5, but not a lot in the more friendly grades.

Stoney Middleton

Stoney is much better known for its trad routes, with many era-defining climbs from the 1970s when it was the country's most-coveted hard climbing destination. Years of slowly being overtaken and falling down the pecking order has given it a bit of a mixed reputation. From this has arisen Garage Buttress. Back in the day it was less developed than the other buttresses mainly because it is snappy and loose, which is a little too alarming when trad climbing. This left some gaps and room for sport routes to be added. Its location and easy access has meant that most of the snappy rock has snapped — although be warned, a helmet is advisable here. Another tip is a 70m rope since the double-length pitches are a good 35m high if you want to lower-off in one.

There isn't a huge number of routes but the real prize of any visit is 'Four Thousand' (6b+). A long route that is so named because it marked the 4,000th first ascent of one Gary Gibson, a man whose bolts you are guaranteed to clip if you visit any of the crags listed here.

Other Areas - There are plenty more quarries in the area. Deep Rake is worth a look, but it only really has a couple of quality routes under 7a. Hidden Quarry is the massive hole opposite Horse-Thief, which has loads of rock with two sections and is worth a look. On one side is Sit-down Buttress with a few easier routes and opposite is Main Wall, which has three routes at 6b and 6b+. Moss Rake is another crag worth looking at but it also suffers from access problems and is currently banned. It does have a pleasant, slab though, giving that rarest of things - bolted limestone slab climbing. Pin Dale above Castleton has a few routes of interest, but nothing of any real quality.

Buxton Area

Harpur Hill Quarry

In terms of lower-grade sport climbing venues in the Peak District, Harpur Hill should be considered as a rival to Horseshoe in terms of quality and number of routes. There is a downside, though: it is possibly the coldest place on Earth! Well, it can feel like that if you hit it at the wrong time, since the walls face north-east or north-west and it catches the wind even if there isn't a wind blowing. Of course, in hot summer months, the crag is a wonderful venue offering shade, but don't be tempted to take a swim in the 'lagoon' even if you see local youths in there — it is said to be pH 12 and will slowly dissolve you.

The quality is dotted around the crag with the best probably being the magnificent Papacy Buttress, which is home to Coral Seas and Apollo Creed as well as a few superb semi-trad routes that need a wire or two. Other areas like the Dark Side - Long Wall, the Sanctuary, Perched Block Buttress and College Buttress are next best.

Explore all the areas as the weather dictates and you will find something of appeal. The bolting is good and there are no access problems, providing the parking hasn't been overrun by Manchester scallies, which can happen on bank holiday weekends.

Smalldale Quarry

On first impression, Smalldale doesn't look all that appealing. It's north-facing and looks out onto an active lorry park. But, if you wanted fine views and sunshine, you wouldn't be going sport climbing in the Peak, now, would you?

What matters is the climbing and here Smalldale delivers. The right-hand end of the crag has a selection of great routes in the 6s on some delightful rock. Take care on the routes near the edges though since they can have the odd loose hold. If you are feeling inspired then the left-hand side is certainly worth a look, but the entry level grade is 7a and they tend to be very technical.

The aspect means that it is another hot weather venue since it is almost as cold as Harpur Hill at other times and there are no sunny options here. This is well known, though and it can get busy during super hot weekends with a slightly limited offering of routes when that is the case.

Peter Dale

A ghost from the '90s has risen. The secluded and quiet venue of Peter Dale was given a blitz and received much attention in around 1994, but never became popular. It probably didn't see any attention for the next 25 years, but recent re-bolting work has brought it back to the fore and it now offers a small but good set of routes. There isn't a lot here and even less in the 'below 7a' category, but it is worth a visit since it is a beautiful spot and you can get a good day's exercise. Be wary though, the routes pack a punch and everything is a little harder than it first appears.

Another one for warmer weather due to tree cover, although it is sheltered from the wind and south-west facing, so it can be 'in' once the limestone has stopped seeping in the spring.

Other areas - You've heard of Chee Dale, you've maybe even paid a visit, but let's be real, the climbing there starts at 7a and it's hard 7a at that. At the top end of the Dale, there is somewhere different. The quarried face of Blackwell Halt, hidden away in its own secluded bay, offers Chee Dale's best lower-grade routes. The only problem is that access is currently banned. Check the UKC Logbook information to keep up to date in case anything changes.

Matlock

Masson Lees Quarry

Masson Lees is an actual hole in the ground rather than a chunk out of a hillside like many Peak quarries. Sadly the landowners aren't happy with the climbers using it. Currently climbing isn't allowed, but that changes from time to time, so it is worth checking UKC to see what the current state of affairs is. 

The Red Wall And Wake Up Walls on its (sunny) northern side are home a number of very fine 4s, 5s and 6s, while the (shady) back wall also offers 'Eye, Eye' (6b+) and 'Pocket Rocket' (6c) and plenty of harder stuff for those looking to push their grade, although it is much colder and seeps very badly needing quite a dry spell to dry out.

High Tor

Realistically, High Tor is a trad venue and arguably one of the best. But it has a high barrier to entry and a tendency to melt your shoes on hot days. If that doesn't sound like your thing, surprisingly, it may still be worth a visit, as the crag's Right Flank is home to several bolted lines.

The routes are pleasant with a shady base under the trees, making it a nice evening venue in the warm summer months. 'Memories' (6a) and 'Saga Lout' (6b+) are the best of the offerings here.

Wirksworth Area

The National Stone Centre

A place where you won't be able to escape the sun is Colehill Quarry. Pretty much the entire bay soaks in the sun. This means that it can be a good choice in the cooler months, but it's best avoided at the height of summer. It is worth noting that there are quarries all over the Stone Centre and development is ongoing. It is distinctly possible that there may be more amenable sport walls in the future here.

It's home to a wide selection of routes in the 6th grade, most of which warrant a star (if not much more). The real highlights of this venue are probably 'Another Roadside Attraction', a tough but enjoyable 6a, and Old King Cole nearby at 6c. There are plenty more though - manage 7 or 8 routes here and you will have had a good day.

Lime Kiln Quarry (Wirksworth)

If you were to design your perfect crag, then immaculate walls of limestone, easy access and a great climate would be on the list. What you might also want is a pub at the base. Well, Lime Kiln manages the last of these — although admittedly it is an odd setting. Close to the walls, a Monster Munch lorry makes a temporary stage for events in the pub car park and there are floodlights for the events which light the place up, although no-one has night-climbed here as far as we know.

This is another of the 'reclaimed' venues from the semi-bolted efforts of the '80s and '90s generation. A full overhaul has left it with some great routes, although only a handful are under 7a. One Green Bottle is the big tick at 6b+, with a few other routes on the other two sections of wall. Once you have had enough, you can always retire to the pub for a well-earned pint and watch others flail on the harder routes.

Other areas - Intake Quarry is worth considering for low-to-mid-grade sport climbers, however access is very delicate and it should currently be considered off-limits. Keep checking, since this may change and, if it does, you will find a lot of quality routes (and, it has to be said, a lot of tottering rubbish) in this expansive quarry. Other crags like Blue Yonder, Dale Quarry and Slayley Brook are in the area, but are probably best avoided since they are either too hard, a little on the loose side or have no real agreed access.

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Peak Limestone

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